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Dick Blick is also a good source, but Amazon should suffice for most brushes.
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Sep 19, 2016 00:54
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8one6 posted:toys
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Sep 19, 2016 01:18
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When I saw this figure, I knew the paint scheme I was going to use... Never fear, cavalry's here!  (Yeah, needs touch up, after I took the picture I noticed the white spot on her face, and the splotches on the boot and pants)  VICTORY! Yeah, I won't go out of my way to make a whole overwatch team, but they look like a MOBA team together.
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Sep 19, 2016 04:33
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I'm painting an Imperial Fist marine for this month's oath, what's the best wash to use? Just normal black wash? (Also, painting a ton of yellow can suck a dick.) A second question: I've recently painted a bunch of my Dungeon Saga minis. Is there some sort of varnish / lacquer / sealant spray I should use on them so the paint doesn't get chipped and scuffed when they're being used?
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Sep 19, 2016 04:53
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maikzor posted:I finally decided on a scheme for my space mens Just hit it up with a highlight on the raised edges and the cloth will look great. I dig that scheme by the way. cyberia posted:I'm painting an Imperial Fist marine for this month's oath, what's the best wash to use? Just normal black wash? (Also, painting a ton of yellow can suck a dick.) Don't wash yellow with black ever, unless you're trying to make it look burned or something. It usually ends up mad gross looking. The washes serve as shading for various colors, and going one size fits all doesn't usually do you any favors. I'd wash with Agrax Earthshade if you wanted a duller, dirtier yellow, whatever the Sepia one is if you want a lighter middle of the road yellow, and a wash of Fuegan Orange or Reikland Fleshshade for a more vibrant color. As for varnish, Testors is the stuff I use. If it's a plastic mini, one coat of dullcote will do it. If it's metal, one of gloss then two of dullcote.
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Sep 19, 2016 05:10
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Yeah, wash yellow with orange. It looks rad
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Sep 19, 2016 05:47
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Alright so decided to try and paint up some models to the best of my ability. Super proud of what I got done and just wanted to show it off. 
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Sep 19, 2016 08:14
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I want to try a orange color scheme on some Heavy Gear robots, and I was wondering who makes a nice vibrant orange that will look decent when weathered? I have painted a fair bit of White doing World Eaters, so I doubt there is a one layer and done solution.
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Sep 19, 2016 14:19
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DRONE NET Least fun painting ever. Nichol fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 19, 2016 18:23
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Nichol posted:[ The sneakiest of assassins
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Sep 19, 2016 18:24
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FireSight posted:The sneakiest of assassins
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Sep 20, 2016 01:03
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Nichol posted:He just appeared out of the banana stand and murdered the produce guy. He smelled horribly of rotten fruit, like he'd been living in there for weeks. It was the damnest thing. Ancient order of bananahashashim
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Sep 20, 2016 01:19
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Finished Fallen Frontier Sayx Vulcans
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Sep 20, 2016 01:23
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Finished Sayx Hero Dianne Tianseen
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Sep 20, 2016 01:25
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Finished Fallen Frontiers Tarko Stahlen
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Sep 20, 2016 01:26
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Finished Fallen Frontiers Sayx Troopers (2 squads of 5 plus officer)
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Sep 20, 2016 01:28
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Why always the boob armor = ( Great paint job.
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Sep 20, 2016 01:44
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mango sentinel posted:Why always the boob armor = ( I know. Other than that the female figures in the troopers look feminine in build without a) high heels and b) "oops I pooped" poses that Infinity seems to go for.
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Sep 20, 2016 01:47
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dr_ether posted:I know. Other than that the female figures in the troopers look feminine in build without a) high heels and b) "oops I pooped" poses that Infinity seems to go for. Yeah they're real good until the sculpted breasts. Also that hero cleavage oof. We're slowly getting there...
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Sep 20, 2016 01:50
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mango sentinel posted:Yeah they're real good until the sculpted breasts. Also that hero cleavage oof. We're slowly getting there... Definitely. In the boxed set for the Sayx you get a good distribution of male and female troopers, both for the troopers and the assault troopers. The hero, well. The 75mm sculpt looks like this.  So I guess they want to exaggerate the pose to keep the look at 35mm. Overall, Fallen Frontiers has proved good fun both to paint and to play. It's nothing like 40k or Infinity, or other scifi games.
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Sep 20, 2016 01:54
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dr_ether posted:Finished Fallen Frontiers Sayx Troopers (2 squads of 5 plus officer) Rad! I'm waiting on some Scale75 paints before attempting my Riffs.
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Sep 20, 2016 01:55
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LordAba posted:Rad! I'm waiting on some Scale75 paints before attempting my Riffs. I have the regular flesh set, and the Reds, Greens, Blue, Shades of Doom, Unnatural Flesh from the Fantasy range, and also Inktensity. I have almost converted over completely to their range. Just need the browns.
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Sep 20, 2016 01:57
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dr_ether posted:Finished Fallen Frontier Sayx Vulcans This one really makes me want to finally get around to painting my models. If it wasn't for these dang mold lines. 
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Sep 20, 2016 02:10
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The pictures are great too. Is that just a sprayed background or something similar?
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Sep 20, 2016 12:09
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Cross posting... Have a dark crappy picture from last night where I finished my White Dwarf freebie. Will try to get some better pics at some point. 
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Sep 20, 2016 12:58
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That's rad
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Sep 20, 2016 13:08
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w00tmonger posted:Wondering if anyone knew any airbrush additives. wdarkk posted:So, a question about Zenethial Priming. But, if you're going to give it a shot, I'd assemble the model fully (you could use blue tac) and use the upper half to shield the lower from the lighter colors. You're going to have that shadowing anyway, so you should probably make it look natural. If you do the pod separately, you might wind up with it not blending well with the top part. Phi230 posted:Hey everyone,
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Sep 20, 2016 15:45
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Phi230 posted:Hey everyone, This stuff has been extremely good to me.
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Sep 20, 2016 16:51
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big_g posted:Cross posting... Dang that's nice. What kind of colors/mixes do you use for your flesh?
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Sep 20, 2016 18:12
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Oh, speaking of minis storage, I've discovered that the large Battlefoam trays fit almost perfectly into a standard office document storage box. You can get 6 of them for like $15 USD at Staples or Walmart.
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Sep 20, 2016 19:58
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Im having problems with keeping my paint on the model. Never had this problem until I started painting again this summer and its really putting me off getting back into the swing of things properly. It's happened with super thin paint to paint that hasnt been diluted at all, airbrushed at varying pressures. I think it's dry and fine but a light touch on any corner and Im back down to primer or even bare plastic. This is with both vallejo and games workshop paints. Ive tried a few different primers as well, including tamiya fine, halfords auto white and vallejo airbrush on. Its occured on models with really light mistings of primer and ones I over sprayed like a doofus. Just had paint scuff off a dreadnought even after applying a varnish coat. Basically, Ive tried varying and noting down all the obvious things I could do differently to get paint to actually stick and cure where it lays but nothing has worked. Im pulling my hair out trying to work out what could be left to fix and its difficult to make myself sit down to another session of painting when I know it could all be brushed off it I pick the model up wrong. If anyone has any out there suggestions or amazing insights I would be eternally grateful. I wanted to improve my painting this summer and to have "getting paint to stay on the model" as the stumbling block... Urgh.
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Sep 20, 2016 21:44
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Lethemonster posted:Im having problems with keeping my paint on the model. Never had this problem until I started painting again this summer and its really putting me off getting back into the swing of things properly. What are you thinning the paint with when you do thin it? Are you cleaning your models before priming? Any texture in the primer?
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Sep 20, 2016 21:50
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Ive tried water, a thinner made from water + matt medium + the other thing Im too sleepy to remember the name of, the tamiya thinner and the vallejo airbrush thinner. Models are scrubbed clean and dry before priming, and primer has been going on perfectly. Or, as perfectly as it was previously when paint was adhering. When I posted my last screamers they had paint that was dry to the touch lifting up again the moment a wet brush touched it. I thought at that point it was because I liked airbrushing super thin layers but even increasing the paint ratio its still a problem. I am rapidly running out of things I could be loving up. Beginning to suspect some kindof air compressor haunting.
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Sep 20, 2016 22:05
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Very strange. Is it possible you are cleaning your airbrush out with rubbing alcohol or windex and that too much of it is remaining in the brush and causing issues with the paint? Rubbing alcohol in particular can cause paint to do weird things.
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Sep 20, 2016 22:11
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Any other similarities? How much time are you leaving between priming and painting? What are the models - metal, plastic, resin? Are you airbrushing the primer on as well or spray primer? I have had this problem before when the acrylic primer was recently sprayed on a model - it dries fairly quickly but seems to take time to ... set? cure? Are the surfaces the paint is coming off of all smooth? maybe try lightly sanding one and re-priming?
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Sep 20, 2016 22:31
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Probably stupid questions, but I'm more of a paint nerd than anything. Does the same thing happen if you brush your paint on? Have your paint been stored at weird temperatures? Have you shaken them up really, really well if they've been standing around for a long time? Have you tried with a brand new paint? It mostly sounds like a paint problem to me. For some reason they don't make the waterresistant surface that acrylics should when fully cured. I'd usually write that up to bad surface preparation, which can absorb some of the chemicals needed for proper curing, but it sounds like you have that part down.
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Sep 20, 2016 22:42
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I have a stupid question for anyone who is interested in helping a noobie to both 40k as well as to miniature painting. According to everything I've read and have seen, Space Wolves (my army) and Marines in general have a setup wherein they color and adorn their shoulders. The Grey Hunters, for instance, will have a crimson red pauldron, and a yellow left one. They would then be adorned with the appropriate insignia of the Chapter as well as their individual Squad type. The box that I received contains only a certain set of shoulder pads to use. Among those are pads that have random insignia, like wolf heads, that I believe fit into a different "Unit" aka the role of that particular wolf. Almost every Space Wolf I have seen has that yellow shoulder on their left shoulder, and the Space Wolf insignia. My question - is that a standard for the Space Wolf, then? Currently, I primed and painted one. It's not fully done; no shading or anything else. Then, on closer inspection, I noticed it has an insignia of a wolf head on it. This seems / feels wrong. It shouldn't have anything so I can paint and/or place a transfer on the yellow pauldron. So, now I'm stuck wondering if I've built this guy wrong and, if so, how to remedy the situation. Removal of the shoulder seems to make sense. But then I have to ask - the instructions given on building these didn't provide any information on the appropriate shoulders to place. Which is frustrating. I know, now, to leave the left shoulder blank and to adorn the right possibly, again, with a blank. But why have these adorned shoulders at all if they tend to just fit into a specific group (again, Grey Hunters with their insignia on their red shoulder.)
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Sep 20, 2016 22:49
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Anasurimbur posted:I have a stupid question for anyone who is interested in helping a noobie to both 40k as well as to miniature painting. This is really a 40k lore thing, but here goes: For Space Wolves, the left (right for termies) shoulder has the iconography of the Great Company they are part of. The GW studio army is mostly from Ragnar Blackmane's company so this is a black wolf head on a yellow background, but there are others, e.g. Logan Grimnar has a white wolf rampant on a black field. The other shoulder and sometimes other areas will have some kind of zig zaggy pattern - the colours are determined by squad type (red & yellow = blood claw, red & black = grey hunter, black & white = long fang, yellow & black = wolf guard) and the pattern is unique to each squad (as the whole squad advances through the ranks they update the relevant colour in their own pattern, exception is the wolf guard as they are selected from other squads). But tbh Space Wolves are anything but standard so if you want to reverse it or whatever it's no big deals. GW just includes the sculpted pads to make it simpler to do the studio scheme.
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Sep 20, 2016 23:04
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Anasurimbur posted:I have a stupid question for anyone who is interested in helping a noobie to both 40k as well as to miniature painting. Left shoulder pad symbol/colours determine which great company they belong to, right pad is their role. 
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Sep 20, 2016 23:06
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Left shoulder pad symbol/colours determine which great company they belong to, right pad is their role. This is awesome - what book is this in? I have the current Codex but can't find it. I was looking to see if there were any Harald Deathwolf transfers but I cannot find a single one. It looks like Ragnar's is the most used - maybe because it's the easiest. Which is fine. It's incredibly cool looking, still, but Harald's is as well.
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Sep 20, 2016 23:10
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