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Looks like either a previous Codex or one of the painting guides. I'll have a look through my spare transfers but tbh GW's pretty committed to Ragnar as their poster child so I doubt there's anything other than his company's markings.
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# ? Sep 20, 2016 23:17 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 08:33 |
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Zark the Damned posted:Looks like either a previous Codex or one of the painting guides. The one they offer on the store, currently, appears to have three: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-IE/Space-Wolf-Decals The Stormwolves, The Drakeslayers, and the Blackmanes. This is, of course, incredibly frustrating although I understand the potential loss in cash in printing every Chapter.
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# ? Sep 20, 2016 23:26 |
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http://m.imgur.com/a/LDBvY Saw this review of a miniatures based loot crate type thing and thought I'd share. I don't really buy into the whole concept and the reviewer isn't very impressed but thought it would be of interest to some.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 00:19 |
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FastestGunAlive posted:http://m.imgur.com/a/LDBvY You know if you consistently got stuff like the paint and weathering pigment and other things that are fun to try out, I think this would be the first time I've seen a mystery box be a good idea
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 00:41 |
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FastestGunAlive posted:http://m.imgur.com/a/LDBvY As long as this didn't end up being sending lots of Warhammer stuff, I'd be interested in this. if it weren't in the UK (probably not worth the shipping).
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 01:01 |
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DRONE NET Least fun painting ever.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 07:14 |
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i just got back into the hobby if someone itt has posted about brush on varnish, how to apply it, how to clean the brushes etc, please link it
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 08:08 |
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Hey Hogge... Just watched this seems to be good advice, I use an airbrush these days but I cosign on the stuff the guy is saying... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTXebOGYSP4
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 08:21 |
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rjderouin posted:Hey Hogge... thanks, i'll watch it i was planning on canned gloss, then canned matt, and then brush on gloss for gems etc.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 08:23 |
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Well for a while now Big_G has been mythering me to get my Stealer Cult up on SA, so here goes! Starting with the decent shots rather than all the WIP's i'll post more wip shots as I go, Atm i have a finished acolyte both the princelings and the 4 abberrents (they were fun!) on the table are 5 more acolytes i'll post wip as i go. First the Princelings, excuse the mix of shots, only recently got a light box but this gives you an idea of the colour scheme for my hive. then the tester Acolyte: and the Abberrents: and the money shot of the group fully based. Have to say, when DW:O was announced I was over the moon, I've really missed stealer cults, easily one of the best bits of fluff geedubs has, now there's a codex coming out? can't wait! melonfish fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Sep 21, 2016 |
# ? Sep 21, 2016 12:22 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Very strange. Is it possible you are cleaning your airbrush out with rubbing alcohol or windex and that too much of it is remaining in the brush and causing issues with the paint? Rubbing alcohol in particular can cause paint to do weird things. Zhent posted:Any other similarities? How much time are you leaving between priming and painting? What are the models - metal, plastic, resin? Are you airbrushing the primer on as well or spray primer? Tried both can primer and air brushed primer. Never had a problem with either until now. I used to prime then paint the day after but the Dreadnought Ive just lost paint off of has been sat primed and waiting for over a month. I dont think Ive had this problem with brushed on paint - I use my airbrush for nearly everything now. Airbrush has definitely been clean and dry before use. And its definitely a bigger problem on edges and corners than flat surfaces. I might record from priming to basecoating and put it on the blog - see if any one can tell me where Im blind to an obvious mistake.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 13:48 |
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Does the primer brush off easily with your fingers? "Skunked" primer that applies sort of dry and grainy usually just falls off.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 15:17 |
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FastestGunAlive posted:http://m.imgur.com/a/LDBvY If you really want one and are in the states, Dicehead has their own. It generally costs sixty bucks plus shipping and has about $100 worth of stuff (the times I received it it was usually just over; $102-110). There's often a GW model of somesort, then a decentish model from something like WarmaHordes or Malifaux, and some small stuff like paints, basing materials (I got bricks once). It's fun if you like random stuff (I do) and you're guaranteed to get at least $100 worth of stuff, but you do have the issue of not knowing if you'll like the stuff you paid sixty bucks for.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 15:23 |
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Anasurimbur posted:The one they offer on the store, currently, appears to have three: Dug em out. I have a bunch of really old ones, small sheets which are pretty much entirely Ragnar's stuff, but I also have a handful of these I'm never likely to use, dunno if they're of use to you (sorry for blurry shot):
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 21:59 |
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melonfish posted:Well for a while now Big_G has been mythering me to get my Stealer Cult up on SA, so here goes! Looking really good, especially like the gloss on the carapaces.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 23:01 |
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Out of curiosity, what would be a good way to achieve gloss like that?
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 10:39 |
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I'm looking for some basing help. I'm far enough into my 28mm napoleonics project that it's time to settle on how to base them. These are going to be from the French invasion of Russia, so I'm thinking late summer/autumn/early winter, but before the snow. And I want to make the bases a little more grassy than the common "stony ground with a few tufts of grass" that you see on so many miniatures. Basically representing something like this kind of grass, but maybe with some tufts for added effect: I've been googling around, and the closest I find are these pictures, though the blog is old and had no info on how he made them. I'm trying to make some kind of plan for how to get such an effect, and all I can come up with is to start with a brownish static grass, and then add browish tufts. Am I missing something? Anyone has any great tips on which materials to go for?
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 12:23 |
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If there is a model train store near you, it may be worth a trip to see if they have anything on display in the N-scale, which usually works out pretty well. Color-wise, you may need some combination of green and yellow ground cover, with some tufts to break it up size-wise. http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/CT-YG/page/1 http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/CT-LG/page/1
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 12:38 |
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Attestant posted:Out of curiosity, what would be a good way to achieve gloss like that? A Satin varnish should do you, I use Johnsons Klear (now oop) I have two bottles stashed in my painting desk. try Vallejo 70.522, it's a brush on.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 13:29 |
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melonfish posted:A Satin varnish should do you, I use Johnsons Klear (now oop) I have two bottles stashed in my painting desk. Thanks, the Vallejo seems perfect, I'll give that a go at some point.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 13:58 |
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x-posting my Deathwatch Corvus Blackstar!
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 22:36 |
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I'm going to start on some Iron Warriors vehicles in the near future, and I realized that while the umber oil and white spirits trick will work for weathering it to some degree, I'm unsure about two things. 1. How would you show chipping on a model that's already metallic? I know I'm going to use the sponge & Leadbelcher on the hazard striped and black areas, but I'd like to show similar effects on the main areas. 2. My basing for the infantry is primarily focused on Martian Ironearth, but I don't think that applying that to the treads and lower points is going to look great - I figure it would look like the red earth is cracking on the vehicle. What's my best bet to illustrate that they're driving through a cracked red waste?
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 23:10 |
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PantsOptional posted:1. How would you show chipping on a model that's already metallic? I know I'm going to use the sponge & Leadbelcher on the hazard striped and black areas, but I'd like to show similar effects on the main areas.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 23:16 |
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PantsOptional posted:2. My basing for the infantry is primarily focused on Martian Ironearth, but I don't think that applying that to the treads and lower points is going to look great - I figure it would look like the red earth is cracking on the vehicle. What's my best bet to illustrate that they're driving through a cracked red waste? Weathering powder. A solid brick red would do the job well.
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# ? Sep 22, 2016 23:44 |
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:x-posting my Deathwatch Corvus Blackstar! Heat staining on the guns is dope, what's your technique?
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 05:39 |
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So I am finally, finally getting a compressor. TC-620X. Plus Patriot 105 Airbrush to go with my Sotar 2020 airbrush. The descriptions under the OP are difficult to follow. Just to make sure I have everything right, I need to get the following: 1/8 hose with moisture trap quick disconnect coupler QD plug for badger x2 (sotar + Patriot 105) I already have teflon tape. Anything else I need? Are these the correct items for the hose? Or would it be simpler to just get something like this? all-in one package
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 06:15 |
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Chill la Chill posted:So I am finally, finally getting a compressor. TC-620X. Plus Patriot 105 Airbrush to go with my Sotar 2020 airbrush. The descriptions under the OP are difficult to follow. Just to make sure I have everything right, I need to get the following: "NEW Quiet 1/5 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR-(FREE) AIR HOSE and Now a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started, Published Exclusiv Sold by: TCP Global Corp $99.96 Condition: New - *BRAND NEW Factory Sealed Package* TCP GLOBAL is Your Trusted Source since 1976. This Item is In-Stock & Ships Immediately from Amazon FBA or our huge warehouses in South Carolina and California. Buy with Confidence as Every Item from TCP GLOBAL comes with a 30 Day Money Back Satisfaction Guarantee. Submit Buy it Again Master Airbrush Brand Airbrush Fitting Conversion Adapters for Paasche, Badger & Aztec Airbrushes; Converts Threads Size to 1/8" BSP Size Threads; Hos Sold by: TCP Global Corp $9.96 Condition: New Submit Buy it Again Badger Air-Brush Co 105 Patriot Fine Gravity Airbrush Sold by: Amazon.com LLC $66.20 Condition: New" These are exactly what I ordered from Amazon and I could not have been happier. rjderouin fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Sep 23, 2016 |
# ? Sep 23, 2016 07:49 |
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mango sentinel posted:There's literally nothing to chip, it's the same material all the way down. You can maybe try to physically score it some to increase the weathered look. I'd go with physical scores and lighter metals in the scores. Or possibly darker, does plasteel oxidise?
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 08:31 |
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lilljonas posted:I'm looking for some basing help. I'm far enough into my 28mm napoleonics project that it's time to settle on how to base them. These are going to be from the French invasion of Russia, so I'm thinking late summer/autumn/early winter, but before the snow. And I want to make the bases a little more grassy than the common "stony ground with a few tufts of grass" that you see on so many miniatures. Static grass plus some light coloured tufts plus something like this to add random variation to different bases would probably look good.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 09:14 |
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w00tmonger posted:Heat staining on the guns is dope, what's your technique? Thank you! It's super simple, just paint the metal as normal first, then apply blue, purple and sepia washes (in that order, starting near the tip of the guns) and that's it.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 11:54 |
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Thanks for the basing tips, I'm planning to raid the local train model shop this afternoon and see what I can find.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 12:28 |
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I just ordered some Reaper fire elementals and burning spheres and the pictures make them look like they're made out of red translucent plastic of some sort. Is there anything you can do with that without painting the whole thing? What would happen if I threw on some Army Painter Quickshade?
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 16:10 |
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PantsOptional posted:1. How would you show chipping on a model that's already metallic? I know I'm going to use the sponge & Leadbelcher on the hazard striped and black areas, but I'd like to show similar effects on the main areas. You could do a couple of things: 1) If your metallic base is darker (i.e. dirty/oily,) you could make some lighter chips and scrapes on the armor to represent the outer layer getting scraped away. 2) You could make some darker (Charadon Granite-type color) chips or scraping on the metal, implying a steel plated over ceramite look. That said, I think Iron Warriors look better as metal with grime and oil stains. You can limit chipping to the hazard striped shoulderpads and dozer blades and still get some really nice looks.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 16:26 |
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Atlas Hugged posted:I just ordered some Reaper fire elementals and burning spheres and the pictures make them look like they're made out of red translucent plastic of some sort. Is there anything you can do with that without painting the whole thing? What would happen if I threw on some Army Painter Quickshade? You can definitely paint them up while leaving them mostly translucent. For the fire elementals, I'd probably avoid washes, because you want the deep recesses to seem brighter, since that's where fires tend to be hotter. Instead, give it a coat of sealer to give paint to stick to, and then give them some paint on the tips with some browns and grays to represent smoke.
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 16:32 |
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I finished up a quad mortar and the Praetor from Betrayal at Calth. I didn't like his head (I think Aethon is a tool) so I swapped it out for one of the super Greco-Roman heads from the Ultramarines sprue. I'm super happy with how his cape came out, especially the transfer: And time to lose some friends:
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 16:35 |
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Agreedo, SRM, that cape is super nice. So smooth
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# ? Sep 23, 2016 17:16 |
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Currently painting an Ogre Cossack from Scibor to practice skin and I'm unsure how far I want to go with highlights. The brightest parts are currently a 1:1 mix of VMC Cork Brown and VMC Dark Sand. Do I keep going with pure Dark Sand and onwards or do I leave it and just focus on cleanup? Also, ignore the hands and face, trying to finish the body before I move on to them.
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# ? Sep 24, 2016 16:37 |
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Looking for a bit of advice before I really get to painting. I'm trying to hash out a paint scheme, using P3 Coal Black as the base (or close enough to it), giving me a nice dark teal/turquoise. I also know I'm aiming to have P3 Meredius Blue as my highest highlight. However, even with significant blending (I've got a test model from my old D&D days to practice on), the transition is too sharp, and there's definitely a feeling like I'm missing a midtone there that would work. I've hosed around with a few other blue-green paints, from mixing some turquoise ink into some Trollblood Base to cruising Walmart in the search of a decent match (even if the quality takes a small hit). I'm almost about to just order the WarColours Turquoise slice and call it a fuckin' day, but I've already got resin bases coming in from the UK and that took $50 and almost a month and i still don't have them yet (though they're in the post, about fuckin' time Fenris Games) and I'm really not looking forward to waiting another who-the-hell-knows-how-long and drop another ON TOP OF of a work rumor that hours might be cut a bit more before the holiday season picks back up at the end of the year. So yeah, sorry about the , I'm just looking for a decent mid-tone turquoise that's not literally halfway across the world half a month out. I'd even take some lovely Apple Barrel paint suggestion, if it worked. I'm not trying to win Golden Demons, I just want a good paint scheme.
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# ? Sep 25, 2016 05:43 |
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Aniodia posted:
Have you tried mixing the paint and keeping track of the recipe?
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# ? Sep 25, 2016 06:22 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 08:33 |
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Aniodia, Reaper Marine Teal might work. Okay, I'm painting up a Stormraven Gunship. Someone said it looked a bit like Bastion's head from Overwatch, so I'm doing it in Bastion's colors. Here are some pictures as is, after basecoating it with the airbrush: Here's a picture of Bastion: Here's a mock-up of how I'm thinking about painting it up from here: Areas circled are going to be painted that color. Black represents gunmetal. Any thoughts on it before I start prepping it for further paint?
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# ? Sep 25, 2016 07:07 |