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8th-snype posted:The nissin i40 is good and it's pretty small compared to equal powered flashguns. The dials are a little fiddly but it is nice to have simple manual controls. I'd buy it over an ef42 again easily. Here's a 3rd less expensive option that I have heard good things about but never personally used https://amzn.com/B00UN01D8A Thank you!
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 05:58 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 08:39 |
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tater_salad posted:Hello Dorkroom dwellers. #2: Nikon, sigma, and tamron all make exceptional, great, good, mediocre, and garbage lenses. If you want to avoid bad lenses, don't buy a superzoom. Do you plan on ever moving to full frame? to a newer crop body? or do you just want to try this all out and continue as a hobby if you like it?
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 06:09 |
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tater_salad posted:Hello Dorkroom dwellers. 1. Check out what they have over at yongnuousa.net , Tim will give you better customer service than everyone selling the same stuff at Amazon. They're a good budget brand but won't last as long as first party, but are cheap enough to replace that it's not such a big deal. 2. Copies of a lens can vary so some people will choose to get their gear calibrated together. The D80 might have a fine tune control, but I imagine it doesn't and it's probably not high enough resolution to really matter anyway. Sigma and Tamron are generally the people competing in the same area as Nikon do, but at a cheaper price. Sigma Art series also make some lenses for crop sensor cameras like yours that are more innovative, but they don't generally come cheap. POWELL CURES KIDS posted:Hi gear thread. I'm super new to photography, and I'm looking for baby's first remote shutter release, to go with baby's first used Nikon D7000. I don't have any other gear except a tripod and two lenses (Nikon's AF-S 18-55 and 55-300), and I'm trying to be thrifty and grab equipment that will stay useful throughout the learning curve. I mostly shoot landscape, and I'm trying to branch into night-time/low-light shooting and long exposures. For the remote shutter release, my extremely uninformed search has turned up two main candidates: One of these is a remote shutter, the other is a wireless flash link. They don't so the same thing so aren't comparable. I personally have the Amazon version of the first thing you linked (is cheaper and identical) and a wired shutter release cable (called an intervelometer) that lets you do more things like timelapse and other timed features. Again, get a Chinese one as they're fine and cheap as poo poo.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 06:19 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:1. Check out what they have over at yongnuousa.net , Tim will give you better customer service than everyone selling the same stuff at Amazon. They're a good budget brand but won't last as long as first party, but are cheap enough to replace that it's not such a big deal. Actually you can use pocketwizards to trigger any camera with a miniphone jack, you just need two of them. I don't think I would buy it for this purpose but if you are like me and already have a few PWs kicking around for lighting it's a cool feature.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 09:38 |
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POWELL CURES KIDS posted:Hi gear thread. I'm super new to photography, and I'm looking for baby's first remote shutter release, to go with baby's first used Nikon D7000. I don't have any other gear except a tripod and two lenses (Nikon's AF-S 18-55 and 55-300), and I'm trying to be thrifty and grab equipment that will stay useful throughout the learning curve. I mostly shoot landscape, and I'm trying to branch into night-time/low-light shooting and long exposures. For the remote shutter release, my extremely uninformed search has turned up two main candidates: Do you need wireless control? By which I mean, do you just want to be able to fire the camera without touching it (for macro or long exposure stuff for example). If that's the case and you don't anticipate being more than a couple of metres away from your camera when you want to fire it, you can get a cheap wired remote for less than $10 ($30 if you want the Nikon MC-DC1 version). For your long exposure night photography, that should set you up nicely (I use the equivalent Canon product for my long exposure shots).
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 10:32 |
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I'm look to pick up a polarizer, aside from getting a circular one and single or multi coating is there anything else i should consider when buying one?
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 12:21 |
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Ryand-Smith posted:Again everyone thanks for your advise. I got the 50-100, and with the 50 1.4 I feel I should be good. Also, I kinda hate every online review site. The scale of the lens is huge. In my new camera backpack, which is the second biggest lowepro backpack, I fit the 7DII with grip and the lens and just enough room for an α7 with nothing but the sensor cap on it. It's a big lens and I will try to provide test shots when I return from a Photoshoot with friends this weekend. You all are awesome people by the way. If you ever want to compare in the future, camerasize.com will let you line up bodies and lenses next to each other to see how the sizes compare.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 12:31 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:#2: Nikon, sigma, and tamron all make exceptional, great, good, mediocre, and garbage lenses. Yes I plan on upgrading my body at some point and time, will it be a crop or full frame not sure, that all depends on budget and what's available at the time. What constitutes super zoom? If I recall they distort like crazy. I kind of have 2-3 lenses in my next pile, a 50mm prime, and a something to ~200 MM. The 50mm Prime will probably be low on my list since most of my pictures are outdoors getting a fast prime portrait lens seems like it's low on the need/want scale. I've done photography as a hobby for many years. My first digital was a sony DSC-s75 which had M/A/S/P modes as well as a lot of other manual options that you just can't find on a point and shoot. then I upgraded to a DSC-V1 years later for the same reason. Since then kids and house buying and life happened so I didn't have much budget or time for photography, so next camera was a generic point and shoot with big screen and few options. Now I"m back into the hobby. I started with an older inexpensive body because it will take me some time to get use to the digital world after using a general point and shoot for years. Also a less expensive body lets me build up the important gear like flashes, and lenses. EL BROMANCE posted:1. Check out what they have over at yongnuousa.net , Tim will give you better customer service than everyone selling the same stuff at Amazon. They're a good budget brand but won't last as long as first party, but are cheap enough to replace that it's not such a big deal. I think my brother uses a yonguo but wasn't sure if it was failtrash or garbage, again if I have a flash it'll probably be used for maybe 1/10th or less of my pictures, so getting one that'll fire a million times over 100k times isnt' a huge issue for me.. the 100k one would last me years, the million time a lifetime. The D80 does not have fine control. NEW QUESTION: Not particularly gear but while I"m here. Is lightroom the standard go-to for "easy" post processing raw files, any free or less expensive alternatives? I really don't see myself post processing for hours and hours, I'm of the mindset of take the picture the right way the first time, but if there are pictures I really like and want to print/frame I may want to touch it up I'd like to do some edits.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 12:43 |
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I'm look to pick up a polarizer, aside from getting a circular one and single or multi coating is there anything else i should consider when buying one? I tend to prefer the Marumi Exus line as they are almost invulnerable for both CPL and protect filters when you need one (rain, sand, dust). They also rate pretty highly for optical quality (vs Hoya/Kenko and B+W) but may be harder to find outside of Asia. I have a few Marumi CPLs to cover three wildly different lens sizes and have never been disappointed. Meanwhile I set down a Hoya/Kenko R72 today and it fell an eight of an inch onto the table and chipped.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 17:45 |
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I havewindex posted:I tend to prefer the Marumi Exus line as they are almost invulnerable for both CPL and protect filters when you need one (rain, sand, dust). I have a Marumi filter I got at a yard sale for $2, it's amazing but only 52mm.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 17:52 |
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POWELL CURES KIDS posted:Hi gear thread. I'm super new to photography, and I'm looking for baby's first remote shutter release, to go with baby's first used Nikon D7000. I don't have any other gear except a tripod and two lenses (Nikon's AF-S 18-55 and 55-300), and I'm trying to be thrifty and grab equipment that will stay useful throughout the learning curve. I mostly shoot landscape, and I'm trying to branch into night-time/low-light shooting and long exposures.
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 21:54 |
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nmfree posted:If you have a smartphone with an IR transmitter you could try one of the remote release apps for free. If you have a smartphone with an IR transmitter lol
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 23:38 |
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If you want an IR remote release just get a chinese knockoff of the ML-L3 on ebay for $1 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/For-Nikon-Camera-Wireless-Remote-Control-D600-D7000-D5100-D3200-J1-J2-/301880248700
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# ? Sep 15, 2016 23:42 |
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So, i'm in photography school and doing a video class while knowing next to nothing about video. What's the best shotgun mic for a Canon 6D for say, under $150? Or is a lavalier around that price point a better idea?
Erostratus fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Sep 16, 2016 |
# ? Sep 16, 2016 22:43 |
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At that budget, look into the Rode stuff.
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# ? Sep 17, 2016 06:24 |
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tater_salad posted:NEW QUESTION: I've got LR 3.6, which is at least 2 generations out of date. I've also got Corel Aftershot (version 2 I think) that came with VideoStudio Pro X7 when I bought it a couple of years ago. I can't find it at the moment (I'm *pretty sure* I installed it way back when) but Aftershot basically does what LR does, but differently so my habits built up over years of LR don't fit with Aftershot. Yes, yes, "LOL Corel", but VideoStudio Pro does what I want it to do with a fairly easy learning curve and nothing in Aftershot made me run screaming from the room. Adobe's subscription-based business model does make me run screaming from the room, but that's between me and the demons that run Adobe and not really your concern. There are some free options out there, spend some time browsing for "photo editing software" and "lightroom alternative" and you'll turn up some options. At the very least, most software companies offer 30-day free trials so you can work out if you hate something. Erostratus posted:So, i'm in photography school and doing a video class while knowing next to nothing about video. What's the best shotgun mic for a Canon 6D for say, under $150? Or is a lavalier around that price point a better idea?
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# ? Sep 17, 2016 07:39 |
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Erostratus posted:So, i'm in photography school and doing a video class while knowing next to nothing about video. What's the best shotgun mic for a Canon 6D for say, under $150? Or is a lavalier around that price point a better idea? EL BROMANCE posted:At that budget, look into the Rode stuff. get one of these Rode VMGO's from amazon for the bare minimum in quality. I have it, and it has a bit of fuzz/hiss because it runs off the camera battery, and has no switches for high-pass filters. Or, find one of these Rode Pro's on CL (there's an older model with a different mount, too) which are like the gold standard of DSLR shotgun mic's.
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# ? Sep 17, 2016 20:31 |
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Erostratus posted:So, i'm in photography school and doing a video class while knowing next to nothing about video. What's the best shotgun mic for a Canon 6D for say, under $150? Or is a lavalier around that price point a better idea? I have this RØDE mic. It's fine and falls between the two that Red19Fire listed as it has a high-pass filter and its own batteries as a power source.
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# ? Sep 17, 2016 21:38 |
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Helen Highwater posted:I have this RØDE mic. It's fine and falls between the two that Red19Fire listed as it has a high-pass filter and its own batteries as a power source. Thanks guys, that was a lot of support for Rode so i went ahead and bit the bullet on this one. I'll get a lavalier later on because i want to focus on documentaries if anything, but i just wanted something fast for general sound improvement. Video is loving hard btw, holy cow.
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# ? Sep 17, 2016 23:44 |
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Erostratus posted:Video is loving hard btw, holy cow. This is my opinion too. Which is probably why I have a bunch of video footage on my computer that's just sitting there waiting for me to pick it up and put it together.
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# ? Sep 18, 2016 01:02 |
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Bromine posted:I have the 860II N. It works most times, just about 20% of the time it doesn't fire. I'm pretty sure it's not recycling or anything. It seems to be related to how I'm holding them in relation to each other. That sounds really odd. I can't speak for the 860II as I don't have one of them. I use TT685 and AD360II units with the X1 transmitter and it doesn't matter where they are, be it inside softboxes, around corners, behind or in front of me, I never had problems. PocketWizards gave me more problems than the Godox system On a different note: I finally bit the bullet and ordered the Tamron SP 15-30mm for my Nikon D750 and feel giddy like a kid just before Christmas.
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# ? Sep 18, 2016 13:00 |
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The 50-100 produces amazingly dream like pictures, I had a technical issue (I am dumb and never switched back to AI Focus), but.. the best way of describing the image quality is dreamlike at the wide end. I manually white balanced to the sunset, and the lens produced high quality dreamlike images, almost like a fantasy. I have a large event in 2 weeks so I will give a more detailed review on how it performs. Its minimal focal length is really high so white balancing it is a pain. I will bring back more test data, but I really like the lens, it produces great content. RCK-101 fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Sep 18, 2016 |
# ? Sep 18, 2016 13:30 |
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Anyone using the Godox V860 flashes? I'm curious about the performance of the li-ion batteries vs traditional AA batteries. Part of me worries the li-ion will degrade over time and I'll be stuck with buying new ones, but another part of me sees "650 full-power flashes per charge" and gets excited.
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# ? Sep 19, 2016 03:03 |
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The Sony thread is archived, but they just announced the Sony Alpha a99ii 42MP Full-Frame Exmor R BSI CMOS Sensor BIONZ X Image Processor & Front-End LSI Internal UHD 4K Video & S-Log3 Gamma S&Q Motion in Full HD from 1-120 fps 5-Axis SteadyShot INSIDE Stabilization Hybrid Phase Detection AF System 0.5″ 2.36M-Dot XGA OLED Tru-Finder EVF 3.0″ 1,228.8k-Dot Tilting LCD Monitor ISO 102,400 and 12 fps Shooting with AF Dual SD Card Slots; 14-Bit Raw Output It will ship in November for $3,199 And Sigma announced the 85mm F1.4 DG HSM Art, 12-24mm F4 DG HSM Art, and 500mm F4 DG OS HSM Sport Lenses KinkyJohn fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Sep 20, 2016 |
# ? Sep 20, 2016 09:39 |
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drat, SLTs & A-mount are still kicking. I figured they'd just been quietly discontinued.
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# ? Sep 20, 2016 15:46 |
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Sandisk announced a loving 1TB SD card at Photokina
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# ? Sep 20, 2016 15:58 |
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Oh man I sure hope these end up in my lab
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# ? Sep 20, 2016 23:55 |
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That new pseudo medium format Fuji announced has got me all a flutter.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 01:27 |
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Goddamn, I have a 128gb card and it's already too big for me.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 08:59 |
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8th-snype posted:Goddamn, I have a 128gb card and it's already too big for me. lol I don't even use up my 16gb card on vacations...
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 11:53 |
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Imagine losing that or accidentally formatting it.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 12:04 |
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spog posted:Imagine losing that or accidentally formatting it. It would be hard to accidentally format it, you'd have what, a month or so, to watch the progress bar crawl across the screen.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 13:50 |
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I guess the only time you'd want a card that large is maybe if you are shooting 4k video with your camera. You could fit way to many pictures on there for it to be ideally useful.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 13:50 |
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Yeah I'd be goddamn terrified to lose that. It's likely less to cover many needs outside of some really heavy video work and more just a sign that flash memory has gotten absurdly cheap over the last decade or so.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 14:11 |
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Helen Highwater posted:It would be hard to accidentally format it, you'd have what, a month or so, to watch the progress bar crawl across the screen. Last week I successfully proved that you can indeed bork a hard drive with a magnet. My smugness at being able to fully restore from backup was somewhat negated by the 16hr formatting time to the 500GB HDD Fortunately, even if you cancel the Full Format while it is in progress, you can still do a Quick Format.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 16:23 |
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The 1tb card would be ideal to put in your 2nd slot and use it as a non-stop backup.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 18:14 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:The 1tb card would be ideal to put in your 2nd slot and use it as a non-stop backup. That's... actually a really good idea, yeah.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 19:33 |
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alkanphel posted:lol I don't even use up my 16gb card on vacations... It was on sale and the same price as the 64gb cards I usually get, those are the perfect size to shoot all day at a wedding and avoid swapping.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 19:39 |
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tater_salad posted:Hello Dorkroom dwellers. 1: You basically have three options: onboard flash, chinese clones, and name brand. The Chinese clones (like Yongnuo) are actually quite good. They're not quite in the $30-60 range but they're usually going to be under $100. A name-brand speedlite is going to cost you and probably isn't worth it unless you are shooting commercial events and need absolute reliability or have a specific need the clones won't fill. Do not use an ancient film flash you dug up somewhere, many of them have high voltages on the flash shoe that can damage modern cameras' flash circuitry. 2. As mentioned most manufacturers make a range between crap and awesome stuff depending on what you're willing to pay. Generally speaking the more you ask from a lens the more expensive it's going to get. It's much easier to make a lens sharp at a particular focal length (a prime lens) than to make it sharp across a wide range (zoom lenses), and superzooms in particular are terrible. So old primes will often compete with really expensive modern zoom lenses (but your D80 is entry level and crippled so it won't meter old lenses properly). In general your kit will probably begin with a normal zoom (ala kit lens), a fast prime (35/1.8 DX), and some kind of telephoto zoom (55-300 or something). The 35/1.8 is a keeper but if you want to step up the rest of the kit look at the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 non-VC (the VC and the Sigma 17-50/2.8 are both slightly softer but have VC which has its own merits) and an older 70-200. If you think you can deal with manual focus the Samyang lineup is top-of-the-line for peanuts, and MF is particularly easy with some of the superwides they have. Otherwise the Sigma Art series are all top-of-the-line, the 35/1.4 and 18-35 f/1.8 are both amazing lenses. And with telephoto, at the high end you'll have a 70-200 f/2.8 VR and similar, plus fast supertele primes if you're really loaded. I realize I'm way late to the party but if you can return the D80 you should, it's kind of a camera for suckers. The D200 is the prosumer version of that, it's got a more durable magnesium frame, better autofocus, the ability to meter old lenses, ability to install a focus screen to make manual focus lenses easy peasy, and nowadays it's only like $15 more than the D80. It's almost criminal to shoot a Nikon and cut yourself off from the ability to use Nikon's extensive library of legacy glass. There's tons of manual focus stuff where you will easily pay 5x as much to get the same capability on a new autofocus lens (like the Samyang lenses, MF tele lenses, etc). windex posted:I have a few Marumi CPLs to cover three wildly different lens sizes and have never been disappointed. Marumi's CPLs are the poo poo, top-flight quality at Tiffen prices. The only complaint I have is that their prices have crept up over the last couple years, but they're still a steal compared to the Heliopans or B+Ws they rank with. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Sep 21, 2016 |
# ? Sep 21, 2016 19:50 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 08:39 |
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Probably cant' return, I was looking at the D200 but no one had in stock at that time. And sadly I was in a bit of a rush, I wanted to grab something before my brothers wedding to take along and get good pics of the kids. I mean I can probably sell it for a 10% loss and get a different body at some point that's a bit more current. Right now I"m learning to get back into taking photos, learning all about post processing, and collecting lenses. Maybe for xmas or bonus time I'll grab a nice body, or some glass, probably glass. I could get along with manual focus but it would only get used about 1/2 the time. I shoot a lot of Kids playing, Animals running around, and then I shoot landscape / still stuff. Manual focus would work for landscape, but kids and dogs, they move fast.
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# ? Sep 21, 2016 21:16 |