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I have a '12 RAM, I disconnected the battery to install an amplifier, and when I hooked everything back up, everything but the factory remote starter worked fine. Is there something I need to do to make it work again? I don't get any errors on the dash like when a door is open or anything (ie remote start disabled, insert key to re-enable)
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Sep 23, 2016 01:05
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Uthor posted:I've been seeing a lot of cars with stickers/print outs on their rear windows with the symbol for an airport (silhouette of a plane from above) and one or two three-letter airport codes. What are those? It's been bothering me for a long time. Turns out its an Uber thing. Lyft, too, maybe. http://chicago.ubermovement.com/airports/
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Sep 23, 2016 01:59
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I seen to recall Ford Escape possibly being terrible? One of my girlfriend's friend's is probably buying a 2008 Escape with the V6 tomorrow, any known explody issues?
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Sep 23, 2016 08:02
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Yes, don't give her advice. She'll either get mad for telling her what to do or expect you to fix it
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Sep 23, 2016 13:36
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Rhyno posted:I seen to recall Ford Escape possibly being terrible? 
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Sep 23, 2016 13:41
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I don't know that it was as open as that, but that is the exact reason my parents got rid of my Mom's Escape.
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Sep 23, 2016 17:11
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That's incredible.
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Sep 23, 2016 17:34
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Hey guys Im in the process of buying a 86' Land Rover Defender. That being said im really new to the whole world of VINs and what not. Does the vehicles engine ID (VIN?) have to match the Rovers chassis VIN? Or is there some type of order to the madness?
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Sep 24, 2016 09:55
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I'm driving down the road and my radio and gauges turn off. I pull over and shut the car off. It won't start. I get a buddy to bring a spare battery, and I drive it home. While the car is running, I disconnect the battery, and it immediately shuts off. OK, bad alternator, I assume. I take out the alternator and bring it to an auto parts store, and they run the test 3 times and apparently it's still good. They tested my battery and said that was good too. I buy a new alternator anyway (original alternator, 2004, 230000 miles), put it in, and the car now runs fine. Any ideas why the auto parts guy said the old one was still good? Maybe I still have a loose wire? Or the old one was only partially working?
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Sep 24, 2016 17:30
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Alternator failure when hot. Epoxy on the windings cracks, when hot things expand and disconnect. When cool, seems normal. Also a common failure of power tools.
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Sep 24, 2016 17:38
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zombieswithblenders posted:Hey guys Im in the process of buying a 86' Land Rover Defender. That being said im really new to the whole world of VINs and what not. Does the vehicles engine ID (VIN?) have to match the Rovers chassis VIN? Or is there some type of order to the madness? Probably. Under the 25 year rule it has to be bone stock. If the numbers don't match you better be goddamn sure it's an IDENTICAL type and year replacement motor of customs will ruin your day. There are too many of them available to deal with motor swapped ones. Especially with the additional attention being paid to Defenders by customs. RobBorer posted:While the car is running, I disconnect the battery, Don't do this. It hasn't been safe since the advent of solid state electronics in cars. With the right type of alternator failure the only thing keeping the electronics from frying is the voltage smoothing/filtering provided by the battery. Yeah, you got away with it, but it's a bad idea. And something totally unnecessary since you can get a multimeter for about $6.
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Sep 24, 2016 18:47
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Also, it's not an accurate test anymore. I've seen a car that had a perfectly good alternator still fail that test.
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Sep 24, 2016 19:28
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RobBorer posted:I'm driving down the road and my radio and gauges turn off. I pull over and shut the car off. It won't start. I get a buddy to bring a spare battery, and I drive it home. While the car is running, I disconnect the battery, and it immediately shuts off. OK, bad alternator, I assume. Oh hey, one I can actually help with. The most common bench tester we'll have in a parts store will test the alternator with no load on it. This means you can have an alternator test fine on the bench and fail in a vehicle when there is a load on it. The handheld tester for taking out to a car has a few different other tests it can run if the guy operating it knows what to look for, but we are given 0 training on these and aren't expected to know it or perform them. What gierskol mentions is also entirely possible. Yours is an edge case, but I have seen this exact situation come up 2-3 times in the last year and a half. Battery test tends to be a bit more accurate on the bench tester since it will look for dead cells, put a load on it and the like, while that handheld unit will not. Source: I work in a parts store. Sometimes poo poo fucks up and/or we make mistakes. 
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Sep 24, 2016 20:23
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Motronic posted:Especially with the additional attention being paid to Defenders by customs. Why would customs pay extra attention to them?
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Sep 24, 2016 22:00
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Mister Kingdom posted:Why would customs pay extra attention to them? http://www.lro.com/news/land-rover/1506/us-owners-get-their-seized-defenders-back Homeland Security who a) don't understand that you need all the digits on a VIN to uniquely identify a vehicle - not just the last few, because they tend to get repeated. and b) can't tell the difference between a new car and a 25 year old one.
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Sep 24, 2016 23:01
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Hey all, I just got my '03 Ford Crown Vic (interceptor, if that makes a difference) today. The parking lights come on, same with rear lights, but my headlamps won't. Neither will my highbeams, but the courtesy flash works. Any ideas? I doubted it was a fuse issues since the other parts worked, but double checked anyway with new ones - no difference. There's only one switch for turning on the lights, I even double checked the manual to make sure I'm not being a moron. Not sure what's going on. OP says to list engine, 4.6L V8, which seems irrelevant for lights, but I don't know cars, so there you go. Additionally, it was just being used the other day by the previous owners, I contacted them but haven't gotten a response yet. Thanks!
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Sep 25, 2016 05:19
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Call a Ford dealer and tell them you want to know if the lighting module recall has been performed. http://www.autoblog.com/2015/12/23/ford-crown-victoria-mercury-grand-marquis-lighting-module-recall/
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Sep 25, 2016 05:31
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MrConfusedTurkey posted:Hey all, I just got my '03 Ford Crown Vic (interceptor, if that makes a difference) today. The parking lights come on, same with rear lights, but my headlamps won't. Neither will my highbeams, but the courtesy flash works. Any ideas? I doubted it was a fuse issues since the other parts worked, but double checked anyway with new ones - no difference. There's only one switch for turning on the lights, I even double checked the manual to make sure I'm not being a moron. Not sure what's going on. OP says to list engine, 4.6L V8, which seems irrelevant for lights, but I don't know cars, so there you go. Google 'crown vic lcm'. The Light Control Module has a cheap part in it that burns out. Ford might replace for you for free. If not, and you are handy with a soldering iron, you might be able to fix it for cheap. E:b 
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Sep 25, 2016 05:32
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I believe Dorman makes a repair kit too.
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Sep 25, 2016 05:36
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Very fast replies, and you guys are wonderful, I will give them a call, the website some texas redneck linked says they should replace it for free. Thanks!
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Sep 25, 2016 05:37
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I will find out tomorrow at work, but I am curious... My work truck has PA plates. My inspection sticker is expired. Do I need to get a sticker in the same state at my plates?
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Sep 25, 2016 23:11
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Yeah, or put your plates in the right state, most states say you need to register / get platrs and licence there if living there for x days.
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Sep 25, 2016 23:39
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I live in MA and all our trucks have PA plates. I guess I will find out to tomorrow. Not gonna complain if I get to spend tbe day driving around doing jack poo poo.
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Sep 25, 2016 23:40
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No state that I know of allows you to live in it for longer than 90 days (military exceptions, 'natch) and not have to register your vehicles in that state. Some even require you to register your vehicle in that state if it spends its majority of time in that state, or is a work vehicle for a business that exists over the state line, even if you live on the other side and the vehicle is registered to the other side. Reciprocity (and lack thereof) between every single state within commuting distance of each other is, of course, a clusterfuck. Some states are even shorter, like 30 or 45 days.
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Sep 25, 2016 23:58
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He said it's a work truck. Commercially registered vehicles are different. Your company should be doing this.
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Sep 26, 2016 00:27
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Drive to PA or needs to be registered in new state with giving them a sub 30 day date
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Sep 26, 2016 01:14
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I live in MA and all our trucks have PA plates. I guess I will find out to tomorrow. Not gonna complain if I get to spend tbe day driving around doing jack poo poo. Just hook up the battery backwards and a new sticker will appear.
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Sep 26, 2016 02:17
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Motronic posted:Just hook up the battery backwards and a new sticker will appear. giggle.
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Sep 26, 2016 03:04
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I think I could do that. Boss just said not to worry about it, it is never gonna get inspected again unless we find ourselves in PA doing some work. 
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Sep 26, 2016 11:36
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My 99 dodge caravan is sitting in the driveway with the battery dead as a door nail because the radiator fans never shut off. It's been suggested that the relay is stuck and that I need to replace it, but every conversation I can find online about locating and replacing the relay is about fixing a van where the fans won't come on, not won't shut off. Is there anything else I should check out or should i just slap a new relay in it and see what happens? It's only $50 but the stores on this side of the river are all out of stock so it'd be a slight pain to go get.
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Sep 26, 2016 13:53
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tactlessbastard posted:My 99 dodge caravan is sitting in the driveway with the battery dead as a door nail because the radiator fans never shut off. It's been suggested that the relay is stuck and that I need to replace it, but every conversation I can find online about locating and replacing the relay is about fixing a van where the fans won't come on, not won't shut off. Is there anything else I should check out or should i just slap a new relay in it and see what happens? It's only $50 but the stores on this side of the river are all out of stock so it'd be a slight pain to go get. I had to jump it in a hurry to get the kids to school this morning. The fans went on full blast as soon as I connected the jumper cable. Anyway, while I had the hood open I opened the fuse box and pulled the fuse for the fans and they stopped, naturally. I stuck the fuse back in and there was a spark and now the fans aren't on and the CEL light is on so woops.
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Sep 26, 2016 14:29
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Curious if anyone have an idea for my issue. I drive a 2011 Hyundai Genesis 4.6 Tau V8, just rolled over 100K miles aftering owning it for 5 1/2 years. All highway for the most part, but that's beside the point. I've had all regular scheduled services at the dealership, oil change every 3-4K miles @ the dealership (free) the last time I was in for milestone service was 90K they checked everything and said the car was in great shape. Good. At 98K or a few months ago basically I brought it in for a couple recall things they had to order etc. They ended up checking everything again, still great. Last week after stopping at the store I got back in my car and it was having trouble starting. It will crank the engine for about 5 seconds and then start. The first time it happened I thought maybe it was a fluke and drove away. That is when I noticed that the throttle was weird, very delayed acceleration as if the transmission was in 6th gear @ idle took forever to get up to speed. Car would idle at 1K rpm (normally half that). Concerned, I pulled over and turn the car off. After maybe a minute I turned it back on and it fired up instantly, no issues, acceleration etc was back to normal. 2 days later it happened again, this time it happened several times throughout the day each time turning it off and back on would resolve whatever was going on. This continued to happen sporadically over the course of the week. On Saturday I brought the car in to get the tires rotated and had them change the oil again so I didn't have to go back again in a month. Told the guy about the issue and they said it sounded like a fuel pump problem, so they checked it out and didn't find any problems with the fuel pump, relays, fuse etc. They also couldn't reproduce it and so I left. After I got home I turned the car off and then back on and it did it again! I did some self diagnosis and fuel pump seemed OK, can hear it turn on and prime the line, relay clicks, fuse looks new etc. Then I thought maybe air flow issues could cause it. Checked the filter, but it's also fairly new, pulled the intake off and checked the throttle body, looks like someone just cleaned it. So now I am basically at a loss for what the issue might be. There are probably several things that could cause this, but I don't really know where to look first. After a particular string of slow starts the CEL came on, but it turned off when I got the car to start up as normal. During some testing I discovered that if I press the start button to turn the car on, wait like 2 seconds and then put my foot on the brake and start the car it will fire up trouble free. If I immediately put my foot on the brake and start it, it will do the crank for 5 seconds and then high idle, weird throttle issue, but like 6/10 times. It starting 100% doing it the other way is what is interesting because it's basically giving the car a second to catch up almost. I haven't had the CEL come back on again so I can scan the code, so I really have no idea what it is. Could thing be as simple as a battery or is it likely more complex? I am assuming its not spark plugs/ coil pack etc because there are no engine misfires or weird rumbling idle when it has the problem starting. Maybe the electronic throttle control? Would that cause the trouble starting?
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Sep 26, 2016 14:53
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Battery is prob on its way out, get a multimeter or have autozone check it. Modern car electronics do weird poo poo when the battery is going. See: all BMWs
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Sep 26, 2016 15:10
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Get an odd ii reader for your phone and buy the torque app. You can see the fuel pressure at pump and rail. Also, Hyundai's are picky about plugs. Pull your spark plugs and inspect
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Sep 26, 2016 15:13
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tactlessbastard posted:I had to jump it in a hurry to get the kids to school this morning. The fans went on full blast as soon as I connected the jumper cable. Anyway, while I had the hood open I opened the fuse box To no one's surprise, temp started climbing while stuck in the drop off line at school. Turned on the heater and made it home. Have I converted a stuck on relay to a dead relay? Or did I do further damage to the electrics screwing around with that fuse?
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Sep 26, 2016 15:37
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totalnewbie posted:My repair estimate: 3k-ish. My estimate from sand damage from driving through some hefty winds when doing a cross country move was about 4500. Actual cost of repair was just shy of 10k. The guy at the shop laughed when he saw the estimate from the insurance company.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:05
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tactlessbastard posted:To no one's surprise, temp started climbing while stuck in the drop off line at school. Turned on the heater and made it home. Have I converted a stuck on relay to a dead relay? Or did I do further damage to the electrics screwing around with that fuse? I'm not familiar with this specific vehicle but here are some possibilities. 1. Your fuse is shot especially if you pulled it while running. 2. Replace the frigging relay, get one from a parts store or somewhere that will ship it. 3. Your temp sensor that turns the fan on/off is shot, if you don't have one at a store near bye also order online and return if you don't need it. Drive as little as possible, overheating is not nice to vehicles, your <$100 problem can get expensive fast
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Sep 26, 2016 16:12
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tater_salad posted:I'm not familiar with this specific vehicle but here are some possibilities. I pulled it while it was running, but my thinking was that circuit is live even when the motor is off, so what difference would it make? On the other hand, electricity is magic. I don't think the fuse is shot, and i swapped it with a known good one and there was no change. I'll change the relay next.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:50
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That fuse looks okay. I'd Def replace or check the relay, also the sensor.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:53
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Yeah replace the relay and sensor, they're very cheap parts that can cause very expensive problems.
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Sep 26, 2016 17:01
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