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AFewBricksShy posted:What kind of hinge is this: Picture sucks. Get another light and post something better, with maybe a second picture of the front. That's also possibly something very proprietary. hogmartin posted:IANAE but I'm pretty sure a permanent extension cord is at the very least a code violation (with exemption for dedicated surge suppressors). You're right. If you want to split hairs, the only legal way to plug stuff in is either directly into an outlet or into a surge suppressor. The codebook doesn't like permanent extension cords, cheaters, 3 ways or power strips. yoloer420 posted:How do I remove these flanges? :L That's the "bonnet". You're right in that there's no "fastening mechanism" on top. I hope you have long arms. Get a basin wrench, attach it properly to the valve on the underside of your sink, then hold the bonnet with your other hand and pry around until you get the threads to loosen.
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Sep 24, 2016 03:18
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AFewBricksShy posted:What kind of hinge is this: I get some matching drawings searching for "cranked lift off hinge". Good luck.
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Sep 24, 2016 21:48
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Is changing the air return for one which accommodates a deeper filter a thing that people do? We're having our duct work changed out, and the return is separate from the air handler near as I can tell. Right now it takes a 1" filter, but reading these various threads I've been turned on to how deeper filters are More Better™ in general. Google isn't giving me any relevant results, I don't know if that's operator error or because it's a dumb idea. (Or both!)
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Sep 25, 2016 01:26
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yoloer420 posted:How do I remove these flanges? It has a screw thread inside so you should be able to unscrew it anti-clockwise if you can get a good enough grip. I've had some stubborn ones in my time but they've all eventually succumbed.
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Sep 25, 2016 09:37
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H110Hawk posted:Is changing the air return for one which accommodates a deeper filter a thing that people do? We're having our duct work changed out, and the return is separate from the air handler near as I can tell. Right now it takes a 1" filter, but reading these various threads I've been turned on to how deeper filters are More Better™ in general. Yes, a deeper filter will let you use one with more filtration power without affecting airflow because the deeper pleats vastly increase the surface area of the filtration media. If you can do it, then it's a great idea.
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Sep 25, 2016 17:17
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I have an issue with removing my dual flush button. It basically looks like this: But has a second ring around it. I can't twist it, and I can't pull the little part out. On the side of the small button there is a slit, but even with using quite a bit of force nothing is moving. How do I get this out?
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Sep 25, 2016 23:27
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a button popped off of the leather cushion of my "replica" eames lounge chair. how do I put it back on without loving up the chair?
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Sep 26, 2016 05:24
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:a button popped off of the leather cushion of my "replica" eames lounge chair. how do I put it back on without loving up the chair? How was it attached originally?
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Sep 26, 2016 06:34
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Michaellaneous posted:I have an issue with removing my dual flush button. It basically looks like this: The piece pictured unscrews. Try pushing the buttons in and gripping it from the inside?
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Sep 26, 2016 06:55
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Our kitchen exhaust hood over the stove drips oil very slowly, sometimes onto the cooking surface. It's been happening the 2+ years we've been in this house. I don't typically notice it between cooking sessions (there's no pool of it) but will get 1-2 drops coming down in random places when I'm cooking. We're not shy with the oil when we cook. This stuff is a shade or two darker than cooking oil, and thicker. Any theories where this stuff originates from, and is it possible I have flammable oil up in the exhaust pipe? Do I need to clean beyond taking the filter out periodically?
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Sep 26, 2016 07:40
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porkface posted:Our kitchen exhaust hood over the stove drips oil very slowly, sometimes onto the cooking surface. It's been happening the 2+ years we've been in this house. I don't typically notice it between cooking sessions (there's no pool of it) but will get 1-2 drops coming down in random places when I'm cooking. The filter is supposed to be cleaned periodically in order to capture oil out of the air. How often it should be cleaned is dependant on use. In commercial kitchens, you will see oil dripping out of the top of the hood and into a trough to a small catchment pan that an inspector or worker can remove and check the oil level. So no, it is not unusual to find oil dripping from the hood, it just sounds like it needs to be cleaned more often. If the hood vents outside your house, there is the possibility that the ducting needs to be cleaned or replaced.
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Sep 26, 2016 08:09
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Cakefool posted:I get some matching drawings searching for "cranked lift off hinge". Good luck. That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks.
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Sep 26, 2016 15:27
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n0tqu1tesane posted:How big is your house? I live in coastal Alabama, and we recently bought a 70 pint standalone unit, and it's made a big difference. Don't have to turn the AC down nearly as much, nearly as often. We keep the dehumidifier located centrally in the house, and it does a pretty good job of knocking down the humidity in our 1500sqft house. Im around 1900sqft, I think I should try the standalone first. I guess I can always return it if I decide to upgrade.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:36
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If I am running network cable from my basement to the attic to connect some IP cams and perhaps a wifi repeater, do I just buy a spool of cat6? I'm not super on this stuff but now I see cat7? I have conduit in place so re-running it if it's not 100% future proof is not a huge deal, but I would like to future proof it as much as possible.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:09
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HEY NONG MAN posted:If I am running network cable from my basement to the attic to connect some IP cams and perhaps a wifi repeater, do I just buy a spool of cat6? I'm not super on this stuff but now I see cat7? cat5e would suffice, cat6 is more than fine, cat6a is morer than fine, and cat 7 is throwing your money away. Triply so since it's in conduit, which is basically cheating. Plus if you were truly future proofing you would run fiber.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:22
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Cat 5e will support gigabit Ethernet, Cat 6 and 6a will support 10Gb ethernet. . . 10Gb ethernet equipment is beyond expensive right now, not for home usage. As far as Cat 6 vs 6a, 6a is used if you have a run over 100m or 328ft. . . If you have a run that long, you're doing something wrong. Cat 7 will just make you hate life, it's ridiculously expensive and has even ore shielding and other poo poo to deal with.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:39
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Will cat5e have any trouble over a 150' run? Assuming targeting gigabit.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:41
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Bad Munki posted:Will cat5e have any trouble over a 150' run? Assuming targeting gigabit. Not at all. It's rated to GigE at 328 ft. I mean, standard rules apply like if you're running it across old magnetic fluorescent ballasts or through you microwave isn't gonna suck. But any reasonable run should work just fine.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:53
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Motronic posted:I mean, standard rules apply like if you're running it across old magnetic fluorescent ballasts or through you microwave isn't gonna suck. Crap, now I gotta re-route the plan.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:56
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Bad Munki posted:Crap, now I gotta re-route the plan.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:58
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Crotch Fruit posted:Cat 5e will support gigabit Ethernet, Cat 6 and 6a will support 10Gb ethernet. . . 10Gb ethernet equipment is beyond expensive right now, not for home usage. As far as Cat 6 vs 6a, 6a is used if you have a run over 100m or 328ft. . . If you have a run that long, you're doing something wrong. Cat 7 will just make you hate life, it's ridiculously expensive and has even ore shielding and other poo poo to deal with. One thing to think about are HDMI extenders need 10gig support to run, so if that is a thing you might consider doing then pull 6/6a. 10gig is coming down in price dramatically, but there are very few uses for it in the home yet even if you have it. At $350/side for a card, and some small server motherboards coming with it integrated you're well into the "Nerdy DINK/Early Adopter" range of prices given what people spend on graphics cards. Look for where the price of things goes super linear, buy at or below the inflection point, be happy. Edit: Distance: Copper ethernet is typically designed to run at full specification for 100 meters. There are some caveats to that, like environmental factors, stranded vs solid, etc: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable#Maximum_length H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 21:05
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I just had replacement windows installed. They did not caulk under the bottom side on the exterior. I understand this is to allow water to drain out if it does get in. But these windows also have weep holes, which I thought were for that. I have other windows in the house which were replaced before I bought it, these ones are caulked all the way around. Should these be caulked or not caulked, or does it depend on the window?
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Sep 27, 2016 00:08
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I can't imagine it makes much difference. How do you think water's going to get in? Even assuming it can get past the house's siding, the water would still need to climb straight up an inch or two under the window, and if they did the flashing right that still won't let the water reach anything it can damage. I guess there might be some minor air leak potential, which could worsen your insulation very slightly, but in my not-very-educated opinion I don't think this is a big deal.
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Sep 27, 2016 01:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I can't imagine it makes much difference. How do you think water's going to get in? Even assuming it can get past the house's siding, the water would still need to climb straight up an inch or two under the window, and if they did the flashing right that still won't let the water reach anything it can damage. The only thing that could send water in that direction is a tornado, hurricane, or a kid with a hose. With all 3, you've got bigger problems than water getting in.
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Sep 27, 2016 02:00
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H110Hawk posted:you're well into the "Nerdy DINK/Early Adopter" range of prices So barely future proofing beyond 2-3 years? Not to bust your balls, but I remember holding back on GigE for prices to come down but if I'm running cable in my house I don't want to do it more than once every 20 years.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:05
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Is there anyway I can test my alarm for natural gas without actually filling a room up with the stuff? I had the hallway one go off tonight for about ten minutes before switching to the dead battery alarm and then going silent. It's sister on the other side of the bedroom door stayed silent even after the door was left open, and I tested it after the hallway shut up to make sure it was functioning. I never smelt any gas or found any blown pilot lights or anything that would cause a leak and I'm hesitant to call the gas company since the alarm has stopped.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:22
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porkface posted:So barely future proofing beyond 2-3 years? You should probably re-read my original comment. For the stated purpose (ip camera, wifi repeater, stated not concerned about future proofing) 5e would suffice. Cat 6/6a is fine. Cat7 is overkill. GigE has sufficed for 20 years, and we're now getting to that inflection point with 10gig where you start to see it trickle into the marketplace. Just because it's available though normal people won't be buying it except incidentally. You can stream a 1080p blu-ray over a cheap gig network with room to spare based on personal experience. (Maybe 100mbit? 45G blu ray, 120 minutes long = (45*1024*8)/(120*60) = 51.2mbps? Is that rightish?) 8-pin RJ-45ish PHY's have only recently gotten stable enough and cheap enough that they are being installed on servers and switches. SFP+ DAC cables dominated due to a preinstalled base of fiber. If I were ripping my walls open to install copper wire without conduit I would put 6a in the walls. This means 20 years they can run 2.5 or 25 GBps over it without changing anything but the electronics assuming no further advances in technology other than price reduction. Or put fiber in the walls and run 250Gig over a single 10km long pair. The service loop in your attic is going to be great!
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Sep 27, 2016 05:35
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there wolf posted:Is there anyway I can test my alarm for natural gas without actually filling a room up with the stuff? I had the hallway one go off tonight for about ten minutes before switching to the dead battery alarm and then going silent. It's sister on the other side of the bedroom door stayed silent even after the door was left open, and I tested it after the hallway shut up to make sure it was functioning. I never smelt any gas or found any blown pilot lights or anything that would cause a leak and I'm hesitant to call the gas company since the alarm has stopped. Take it down, hold it over your unlit but on stove?
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Sep 27, 2016 05:36
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H110Hawk posted:Take it down, hold it over your unlit but on stove? Ha. Sleep deprivation hasn't made me that dumb. It's wired into the electrical so no moving to where gas supply actually is.
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Sep 27, 2016 06:30
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Capture some gas from your stove in a plastic bag and bring it to the alarm then?
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Sep 27, 2016 14:28
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Thread, I have an important, burning question: why the gently caress are they called nipples? Relatedly, where the hell can I get a 3"-long rigid nipple for 1" conduit? Man, I feel dirty just asking. Or maybe that's the thread cutting lubricant I got all over everything. Seriously though, I need a short piece of conduit that I can thread into the port on my LB box. It has to penetrate about 1.5" of wall to reach the LB, and I want to put a 90° elbow on the other end. Is there an appropriate EMT fitting I can thread into the box or something (are EMT and RMC thread-compatible?)? I tried manufacturing my own nipple, but my pipe threader can't work on pieces that short. Home Depot has 5"-long nipples, but I kind of feel like that's too long? Like, I want to be able to run this conduit inside the stud bay if possible. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 23:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thread, I have an important, burning question: why the gently caress are they called nipples? Relatedly, where the hell can I get a 3"-long rigid nipple for 1" conduit? All electrical fitting types are thread compatible. Well, you might get into some situations where you need sealants and such, but the threads all fit together. As far as I know, they were borrowed from plumbing. Go to a local electrical supplier. Big box stores typically only carry full selections of 1/2" and 3/4" fittings. Also, you know that you're not supposed to bury LB boxes behind drywall, right? if all else fails: https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Nipples-Steel-Galvanized-Steel/Multiple/13RNP/Product.aspx?zpid=16264
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Sep 27, 2016 23:43
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kid sinister posted:Also, you know that you're not supposed to bury LB boxes behind drywall, right? EDIT: though the elbow I had planned to use would be a 90° elbow with pull, so it'd have one of those screw-on covers with a gasket, like the LBs do. Might that be subject to the same restriction on placement? Ideally I'd like it to be easy for some future owner to finish in the workshop without turning it into a non-code-compliant mess. quote:if all else fails: https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Nipples-Steel-Galvanized-Steel/Multiple/13RNP/Product.aspx?zpid=16264 Thanks. My searches had only turned up the option of buying them in quantities of 25 at a time. Will also look for local electrical supply stores. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 23:51
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:a button popped off of the leather cushion of my "replica" eames lounge chair. how do I put it back on without loving up the chair? By throwing it away and visiting your local DWR with a really high credit limit  i want a real Eames lounger so much but I just know my cats will destroy it.  . I'll settle for my LCW for now, though.
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Sep 28, 2016 01:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The LB is outside the structure; the fitting and elbow would be inside. Not that it matters much because this is my workshop, which isn't going to be drywalled. Basically, anywhere you can access the cable inside conduit must be accessible. That means you can't cover pull points with drywall without also putting in an access panel. Also, they're called nipples because that's what plumbing calls the same part (plumbing predates electricity), but I have no idea why plumbers named them that. And if you want another giggle, look up the original name for a fill valve.
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Sep 28, 2016 04:29
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kid sinister posted:Basically, anywhere you can access the cable inside conduit must be accessible. That means you can't cover pull points with drywall without also putting in an access panel. I mean, honestly all I really want is a 90° elbow that has a radius of, like, 2" instead of the 10" elbows sold in stores, but I guess feeding wire through such a sharp angle would be kind of a pain in the rear end. Hence why all the "sharp" elbows have pulls. quote:Also, they're called nipples because that's what plumbing calls the same part (plumbing predates electricity), but I have no idea why plumbers named them that. And if you want another giggle, look up the original name for a fill valve. Now that's just dirty.
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Sep 28, 2016 04:57
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So, we did our bathroom over ourselves and Mr obviously I hosed it has had some experience doing floors, plumbing, and the like. One thing he did that he was having a DOH!! moment over was using two kinds of mastic--one ran out and he grabbed a second kind at the nearest hardware supply shop. Where the two rows of tiles meet, the grout is all cracked and weird. Do we have to regrout only, or do we have to haul up the tile and do the second half of our bathroom over again? Thanks.
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Sep 29, 2016 02:55
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obviously I hosed it posted:So, we did our bathroom over ourselves and Mr obviously I hosed it has had some experience doing floors, plumbing, and the like. One thing he did that he was having a DOH!! moment over was using two kinds of mastic--one ran out and he grabbed a second kind at the nearest hardware supply shop. Where the two rows of tiles meet, the grout is all cracked and weird. Do we have to regrout only, or do we have to haul up the tile and do the second half of our bathroom over again? Thanks. Is it literally just a line of cracked grout? You should be able to just fix that line if the tiles appear to be correctly affixed to the floor on either side. At most I imagine one tile on either side of the crack needs to come up, and even then I would be careful unless you have spare tile from the same lot.
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Sep 29, 2016 04:37
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I've posted about a water problem of mine before. Tonight, it started raining somewhat heavily outside. As a result, it also began raining inside my bathroom. I grabbed my flashlight, I ran up to the attic, opened the crawlspace, and found... bupkis. No mold, no suspiciously squirrel-sized hole in the roof, nothing. A lot of the insulation has fallen down, but that's probably because it is older than I am. I couldn't access all of the attic, but I managed to hear a steady drip coming from... about the same spot it is drizzling in my goddamn bathroom. I intend on getting someone to look at it now that I've got the cash, but I was wondering something. The converted attic 'room' runs the length of the house. The location of the leak I heard is somewhat low on the roof, off toward one corner. But... the upstairs room has a couple of old water streaks, on the left and right sides, where the walls meet the downwards slant of the roof. What gives? If it is a leaky vent boot ( as has been guessed ), how would the damage spread out like that? I'm guessing there is also some water coming in where the roof meets the chimney, but that doesn't explain the damage facing the side where there are no vents or chimneys. I'm just trying to prepare myself with information for when I call someone to fix this crap so I don't get hosed, and I'd appreciate anything that could help minimize the damage to my wallet. Who would even be the best type of fixer to call for this sort of thing? Roofer? Handyman?
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Sep 29, 2016 05:25
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NerdyMcNerdNerd posted:
It's of course hard to guess since we haven't seen the location, but if it's a leaky roof penetration like your plumbing stack or a bathroom exhaust fan, etc, the water could simply be taking a ride along the pipe/vent. Otherwise, it could be simply riding along a joist, or something else. The second a drop of water hits an angled surface of some sort, it'll start moving away from the actual source.
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Sep 29, 2016 12:46
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