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VelociBacon posted:Would honestly be a bad card. Noone should buy anything less than a 1060 level card.
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Sep 26, 2016 11:27
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VelociBacon posted:Would honestly be a bad card. Noone should buy anything less than a 1060 level card. I completely disagree. The big majority of gamers still use a 1080p monitor and mostly play games like DOTA or console-ported 3D shooters on medium settings. You can't use integrated graphics for that, but a 1060 is overkill. $300 is also a big hit in the wallet for many people.
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Sep 26, 2016 11:34
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peak debt posted:I completely disagree. The big majority of gamers still use a 1080p monitor and mostly play games like DOTA or console-ported 3D shooters on medium settings. You can't use integrated graphics for that, but a 1060 is overkill. $300 is also a big hit in the wallet for many people. A 6GB 1060 is closer to $250 than $300, and the single-fan eVGA 3GB 1060s are already $199. That being said, I did see a 950GTX for $90 in a mailer recently. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 11:40
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BIG HEADLINE posted:It will definitely be interesting to see 4GB 1050s against 3GB 1060s, but 6GB 1060s would have to reliably get down to ~$225 after rebate, which would mean 1050s would be selling for under $150 and 3GB 1060s would be ~$175. If you can't afford $250 for a video card get a used card or something I don't know. Anyone who buys a xx50 will be replacing it so much earlier it just adds cost.
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Sep 26, 2016 12:04
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After searching this thread for Soundcard talk, I figured I'd drop in and ask a couple questions and describe my situation. I'm currently leaning towards Soundblaster X-fi Titanium because 1. I require TOSLINK optical audio input. 2. I will use creative alchemy to restore EAX to a bunch of older games. 3. Given lack of audio advancement, I'm leaning towards using new studio quality headphones, maybe bose quietcomforts directly out of the rear jack, so I'll actually benefit from the soundcard. Lots of newer headphones have their own drivers that don't utilize the soundcard. 4. I might get a true surround 7.1 speaker system in the future and 5. Good experiences with Creative - I'm still using my SB X-fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro that I got in 2006 in another PC.( I was gonna just move it over but there was some kind of driver bullshit where windows 10 wouldn't take digital audio input. I can't find any google results at the moment but it was a pain, and could be the bane of any new potential card). But its occurred to me I have no idea what audio advancements have been made in the past 10 years and what new features I might want. From what I've seen in this thread, people seem convinced that onboard audio/processing from headphone software drivers/whatever (maybe videocards also do it now? dunno) is good enough that you don't need a soundcard, meaning the advancements of the past few years wouldn't really interest me and I can freely pretend the last 8 years didn't happen by ordering this older card. Anybody happen to know what the build quality difference is between the SB Titanium and the SB Pro series? It'd be nice to know my next soundcard is also likely to last 10 years. Edit: I can see I'll be missing out on Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD Master. Still, no immediate plans to use either. Eregos fucked around with this message at 13:09 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 12:52
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Thank you all for the advice. I was begrudging having to found out everything by myself and was at some point considering a pre-build machine, but the more I read the OP and this thread and your direct information the more I learn that they sell you suboptimal poo poo.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:22
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Quick question: Against this thread's advice, I purchased an ASUS TUF SABERTOOTH Z170 S Motherboard (reviews seemed very good and I had the extra cash). I ran my whole setup in PC Parts Picker and everything seemed fine, but after reading a bit more, I see that the "memory standard" of the motherboard was DDR4 2400, and I purchased 16gb of DDR 3600. I'm having a really hard time finding any information on the web, but older articles about the Sabertooth Mark 1 scare me a little. Will I have to get a different motherboard? Will it work, but not optimally?
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Sep 26, 2016 16:25
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It took an alarming amount of digging but I found ASUS's QVL for that board which lists plenty of >2400 RAM. Doesn't list anything above 3466 though so it might still not be the ideal board for your bang zoom DDR4-3600. It's very unlikely that it won't work at all but it might not end up working at its rated speed.
HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 16:33
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VelociBacon posted:If you can't afford $250 for a video card get a used card or something I don't know. Anyone who buys a xx50 will be replacing it so much earlier it just adds cost. I'm on a 6850 and upgrading to a 1050 because it's as much as I need and so I can fit into the size and cooling restraints of an ITX case. Just because you don't understand a use case doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
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Sep 26, 2016 17:51
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Allstone posted:I'm on a 6850 and upgrading to a 1050 because it's as much as I need and so I can fit into the size and cooling restraints of an ITX case. Just because you don't understand a use case doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I guess the biggest argument against that is that the 6" long and very low-TDP 1060s are $170 for a 3GB and ~$220 for a 6GB on Jet.
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Sep 26, 2016 17:57
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Twerk from Home posted:I guess the biggest argument against that is that the 6" long and very low-TDP 1060s are $170 for a 3GB and ~$220 for a 6GB on Jet. Yeah that'd be the other thing. The 3gb ones are 350 Australia funbux, and I would assume the jet promotion is US only. Legitimately all I'd be playing is Dotes and like turn-based stuff at 1080p60, and the 950 is already something like double my current performance. There are plenty of people that legitimately don't need the power and would prefer the quieter card than go pre-owned (assuming a decent pre-owned market exists where they live). E: Also there're the people hoping for single-slot &/ low-profile cards is that good fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 18:04
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Oh man, I was this ---| |--- close to pulling the trigger on a 6600k + Z170 combo upgrading from a 3570k + Z77 http://pcpartpicker.com/user/jmmtn4aj/saved/#view=ynqsYJ That's my current build, and this is the new: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/jmmtn4aj/saved/#view=HMxrHx I've already bought the Acer XB271HU (spoiler alert, it's awesome), so upgrading to a 1070 GTX from a 760 GTX is probably a must if I'm going to play BF1 with any sort of detail on, but googling for benchmarks of 6600K vs. 3570k suggests I'd be looking at a 10-15% performance gain.. Is this real? It's boggling my mind that a GPU I bought 2 years ago will see near 100% jump in framerates while a current-gen cpu will give me 10% more performance than one bought Should I just get the 1070, bump my ram to 16GB, actually OC the 3570 (never touched it because lol stock cooler) and call it a day? Would the DDR4 (say at 3000mhz) that going to a Z170 and 6600k gives boost performance that much past 10%? 
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Sep 26, 2016 18:03
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CPU improvements have been glacial since about a year before you bought yours. You'll get about as much performance going from a stock 3570K to an overclocked one as you will from a 3570K to a 6600K, only it'll cost you $35 instead of $450. Pick up a cooler and you can probably laugh all the way to 2018 unless you pick up a CPU bottlenecked game that just barely doesn't perform.
HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 18:10
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HMS Boromir posted:CPU improvements have been glacial since about a year before you bought yours. You'll get about as much performance going from a stock 3570K to an overclocked one as you will from a 3570K to a 6600K, only it'll cost you $35 instead of $450. Pick up a cooler and you can probably laugh all the way to 2018 unless you pick up a CPU bottlenecked game that just barely doesn't perform. Do not replace a 3570k with a 6600k. Especially not for gaming. You literally might not notice any difference. The idea where you get a new video card instead is the way to go, if you go from GTX 760 to GTX 1070 on still your 3570k it's going to blow your mind.
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Sep 26, 2016 18:38
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HMS Boromir posted:It took an alarming amount of digging but I found ASUS's QVL for that board which lists plenty of >2400 RAM. Doesn't list anything above 3466 though so it might still not be the ideal board for your bang zoom DDR4-3600. It's very unlikely that it won't work at all but it might not end up working at its rated speed. It is reassuring, thanks a lot! I can live with my 3600 clocking at 3466, my own fault for buying expensive poo poo without proper research, I just hope it works at all. Guess I'll know soon enough (although my RAM is shipping from the US and the rest of my parts from Canada, so it'll still be a few days until I know for sure). This thread best thread.
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Sep 26, 2016 19:28
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Hi. I was previously seeking PC-building help from this community, and I'd like to do so again. The catch is that this time, it's not my computer - my brother has tasked me with building him a mid-range gaming PC. The constraints are as follows: -On a budget of $1,500 -Longevity is a preference, so no overclocking -He has no desire to replace the stock motherboard fan since his home never gets hot even in the summer -Must have a Blu-ray player -He does not need peripherals (monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc.) This is what I've come up with so far: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/8yRnpb Obviously the major issue here is that I've widely exceeded the $1,500 limit, but I'm unsure what I can do about it since if longevity is the magic word, the parts will need to be assembled to last and still be able to play next generation games for years to come. I'm also not sure how well a stock motherboard fan keeps the air circulating (and I don't think the motherboard I selected has a stock fan, so I might need help picking out a motherboard that does). He's not worrying about the computer until after Christmas, so I'm not in a hurry. SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 20:05
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SL the Pyro posted:Hi. I was previously seeking PC-building help from this community, and I'd like to do so again. That's an OEM blu-ray burner that won't come with the software to play blu-rays at all, so you'll have to buy the software separately. On $1500 CAD budget, I'd go for an i5 and try and get any of the faster GPU options than a 970, like a 1060 or 1070. Edit: A $240 PSU is crazy, find a nice 80+ gold unit for half the price if you want to splurge a little.
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Sep 26, 2016 20:09
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I'd call overclocking a way to increase longevity, but if that's off the table... PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($287.75 @ Vuugo) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($105.00 @ Vuugo) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($87.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.75 @ Vuugo) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg Canada) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GAMING Video Card ($336.26 @ DirectCanada) Case: Corsair SPEC-01 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.91 @ DirectCanada) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Memory Express) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit ($134.99 @ PC Canada) Other: LG 14X Blu-Ray Burner ($84.99) Total: $1366.62 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-26 15:24 EDT-0400 Replaced outdated parts and saved a lot of unneeded spending on the case and PSU. There's room in the budget for an i7-6700, but currently it does something between gently caress and all for gaming, so you're betting pretty hard on the hypothetical increase in multithreading that's supposed to come with DirectX 12 and its cousin Vulkan. On the GPU side, a 1070 would be a significant upgrade but would break the budget a little. The Samsung 960 EVO might be out before Christmas and should be a good bit faster than the 850 EVO, though we don't know anything about pricing yet. Worth looking up before you buy. Also DDR4 faster than 2133 MHz is technically overclocking and usually involves a voltage increase so if you're that worried about long term damage you might as well get slower RAM as well. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 20:36
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Thanks guys, this is a huge step in the right direction. I always thought overclocking decreased the longevity of a computer because the extra wattage decreased part lifespan? If I'm wrong or it makes little difference in the long run, I could try a low-overclock build and maybe get away with a cheaper CPU as a result. I'm just more wary of it since it's someone else's computer that I'm building and he doesn't like the idea of more cooling with a replacement cooler (which I can understand, replacing the stock fan with an over-the-counter megafan is an irritating process). SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 21:05
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SL the Pyro posted:Thanks guys, this is a huge step in the right direction. Within reason, overclocking won't do any damage to a CPU that will make it last less than a decade. In the past, overclocking has let CPUs last longer because overclocking is enough to get an older CPU from "too slow" to "this is OK" and let it be acceptable performance for another year or four.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:07
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SL the Pyro posted:Thanks guys, this is a huge step in the right direction. Yes and no. CPUs are generally rated to last 7 years of constant use in a server type environment with high load. As an end user you're not keeping your PC online under high load constantly so its going to last 10+ years easily even with an overclock as long as you don't exceed safe voltage specifications. I don't know about you but I've never used a PC for over 10 years; So, while you are shortening the lifespan it still doesn't really matter.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:18
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Voltage and heat are the main killers of electronics in the long-term. You can usually get the majority of a chip's overclocking potential with zero or minimal increase in voltage (it's luck of the draw exactly how much) while an aftermarket cooler will probably keep a mildly overclocked CPU at a lower temperature than the stock cooler could keep a stock clock/voltage CPU. As mentioned, even if you crank things up a little higher than that, you're still talking about an expected lifespan longer than the likely usefulness of the machine (and indeed much longer than the expected lifespan of your motherboard). If you're willing to entertain the idea, an i5-6600K is what you want. The case I picked out is a little tight as far as maximum cooler height goes and the usual smaller options don't seem to be readily available in Canada so you might want to get a case that can fit the oft-recommended 212 EVO. Maybe something like this.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:19
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EDIT: Blargh, was beaten to posting. I figured the aftermarket fan would be better. The i6600K isn't much more expensive than the regular i6600, so it might be worth toying with. I'll see what my brother thinks. If I do end up overclocking, is it possible to work with a lower-memory RAM for cost-cutting purposes, or should I stick with the 3000? SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 21:34
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If anyone's buying one really soon, there's a Gigabyte 6gb GTX 1060 for $229 after $20 rebate on amazon right now: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-1060-WINDFORCE-GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD/dp/B01JNUO6BG/
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Sep 26, 2016 21:46
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SL the Pyro posted:EDIT: Blargh, was beaten to posting. RAM is about as cheap as it's going to get right now, and 16GB of system memory is a good hedge against the immediate ~futcha~. I still think outside of niche applications and needs that 32GB is overkill, but some people are going that route because...RAM is about as cheap as it's going to get right now. Also, with regards to overclocking, you're not putting a huge strain on the 6th-gen Intel chips simply because you're not taking them wildly out-of-spec - most people take the 6600K up to ~4.2-4.3Ghz. If that sounds low compared to people saying they're running their 2500K at 4.3-4.6Ghz, those architectural improvements are what allow a Skylake to outperform an overclocked 2500K slightly to moderately at 4.2-4.3Ghz.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:56
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SL the Pyro posted:If I do end up overclocking, is it possible to work with a lower-memory RAM for cost-cutting purposes, or should I stick with the 3000? If you're looking for a place to save a few more bucks, it's likely that a smaller mATX motherboard and case will be a little cheaper and you don't really lose anything. Right now there's a huge rebate on the ATX motherboard you had picked out but that might not be the case in a few months' time. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 22:07
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Cool, thanks for the help guys. I'll check in again after my brother gets back to me.
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Sep 26, 2016 22:34
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Oh, and don't go with a 4x4 kit for 16GB, stick with 2x8 kits. With the exception of server-descendant board like the X99, which are tuned for quad channel and massive quantities of RAM and have better controller chips to handle said shitload of RAM, it's been my experience over the last half-decade to go with two slots populated, max, on a dual-channel board. I had two identical 4x4 Crucial LP kits go tits up on me after a few months' time, but when I finally got fed up and replaced it with a 2x8 kit, everything's been rock solid now for four years straight.
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Sep 26, 2016 23:36
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Rexxed posted:If anyone's buying one really soon, there's a Gigabyte 6gb GTX 1060 for $229 after $20 rebate on amazon right now: So aside from the dimensions of the card is there a significant difference in the card between Gigabyte and EVGA 6gb GTX 1060? Because with the 20$ rebate Gigabyte's is just ~29$ cheaper on Amazon if there aren't other considerations I'm missing.
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Sep 26, 2016 23:58
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What's an ideal build/display for someone who wants to do a lot of digital painting? I built my PC about 4 years ago and haven't really kept up with the tech. Right now, I have a GTX 680, 8 gigs of ram, an i5-3570k, a corsair 650D and two Dell UltraSharp U2412Ms. Two of the tower fans poo poo the bed at the same time, so those need to be fixed first. The ultrasharps are pretty nice, but the more I paint the more I want a larger main display, probably at 4k. The stand for them is also gigantic and doesn't allow for much manipulation.
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Sep 27, 2016 00:35
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Elderbean posted:What's an ideal build/display for someone who wants to do a lot of digital painting? I built my PC about 4 years ago and haven't really kept up with the tech. Right now, I have a GTX 680, 8 gigs of ram, an i5-3570k, a corsair 650D and two Dell UltraSharp U2412Ms. Two of the tower fans poo poo the bed at the same time, so those need to be fixed first. The ultrasharps are pretty nice, but the more I paint the more I want a larger main display, probably at 4k. The stand for them is also gigantic and doesn't allow for much manipulation. There are 4K VA displays that aren't hideously expensive (stay away from the cheaper TN variety) - and if you're doing digital painting, you have a legitimate reason to use a 4K display for non-gaming. The issue is, I'm pretty sure your GTX680 doesn't do Deep Color, so you'd probably want to pick up a 6GB 1060 or 8GB 480 for that. You can also save a bit of money by going with a 40"-class 4K television (look at the Sony XBR43X830C), but you have to make sure it's capable of 4:4:4 chroma. *All* PC 4K monitors are (save for a few really early ones that were made to take advantage of people), but not all 4K televisions are. Of course, good luck finding a grid-array LED backlit 4K TV for under ~$750 - most of them are edge-lit which results in lovely black reproduction, which might be an issue for your color/painting work. Similarly, watch this periodically: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=Monitor&sort=new&restrict_sr=on&feature=legacy_search ASUS also makes "ProArt" monitors specifically for image creation and editing, but they're not cheap. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 01:28
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HMS Boromir posted:Yeah, you should be fine, but you can get some less stupid RAM if you want. I just picked the absolute cheapest set because I was running up on the budget. Thanks a lot! Went ahead and got that board, everything still came under 1k (and have a $20.00 rebate coming) so I am a happy guy right now. Thanks thread! Will post a pic of it when I put it all together.
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Sep 27, 2016 01:35
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Would I be able to stick a gtx1060 into my current computer? (which I built from a guide with help from this forum a ...few years ago). i5 2500k @ 3.3ghz ASUS P8Z68-V LE (LGA1155) Antec EA500D I have 8gb of RAM but it is quite slow. I'd be replacing that at some point soon as well. http://pcpartpicker.com/list/yDWKqk PC part picker suggests no incompatibilities, but I'd feel better if someone here said it. I'm going to wait for a good deal on a 6gb 1060 somewhere. Or would a 3gb be fine to play FO4 / W3 at 1080p?
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Sep 27, 2016 03:08
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radiatinglines posted:Would I be able to stick a gtx1060 into my current computer? (which I built from a guide with help from this forum a ...few years ago). Your computer is almost identical to mine - same CPU (at 4.4GHz, you should try overclocking especially if you have an aftermarket cooler) and motherboard, 16GB DDR3-1600. A 6GB 1060 worked perfectly for me. It runs Fallout 4 and Witcher 3 at 1080p/ultra 60Hz very smoothly. I also found that 4K/medium is not bad for either, but 1080p/ultra looks about as good and is more consistent. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 03:20
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The one thing I haven't seen anyone really mention yet is that everyone with 2500Ks who've been running them for 4-6 years now, really need to look into buying a new PSU, preferably one they'll be able to grandfather into their next build. Back when people were doing a moderate to major rebuild every three years, it wasn't a huge concern, but with people reaching the warranty limit on their PSU it's time to consider pulling that line.
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Sep 27, 2016 04:46
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BIG HEADLINE posted:The one thing I haven't seen anyone really mention yet is that everyone with 2500Ks who've been running them for 4-6 years now, really need to look into buying a new PSU, preferably one they'll be able to grandfather into their next build. Back when people were doing a moderate to major rebuild every three years, it wasn't a huge concern, but with people reaching the warranty limit on their PSU it's time to consider pulling that line. I kinda want my rig to explode in a shower of reasons to upgrade (Also flames) Just kidding, this is good advice. The 2500k which would not die! Just gotta hang on for 7700ks and Z270s to show up!
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Sep 27, 2016 04:51
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BIG HEADLINE posted:The one thing I haven't seen anyone really mention yet is that everyone with 2500Ks who've been running them for 4-6 years now, really need to look into buying a new PSU, preferably one they'll be able to grandfather into their next build. Back when people were doing a moderate to major rebuild every three years, it wasn't a huge concern, but with people reaching the warranty limit on their PSU it's time to consider pulling that line. Not to mention newer power supplies are more power efficient than what they probably started with. I did this earlier this year to replacing an ancient by today's standards Silverstone power supply. It didn't even have 80 PLUS efficiency on it!
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Sep 27, 2016 05:09
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which intel processors have beefy enough onboard GPUs to power 1080p ultrawide? I want do do a home theatre build for around $500 and im waffling between a prebuilt or building it. There are just too many different processors and it doesnt help that a lot of the prebuilts are using 3+ year old stuff 2500k never gonna die club
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Sep 27, 2016 05:09
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Fauxtool posted:which intel processors have beefy enough onboard GPUs to power 1080p ultrawide? I want do do a home theatre build for around $500 and im waffling between a prebuilt or building it. There are just too many different processors and it doesnt help that a lot of the prebuilts are using 3+ year old stuff Probably any of the new ones can, it'd have to be displayport I think depending on which generation HDMI is out. A lot of the older intel chips probably could too.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:17
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Fauxtool posted:which intel processors have beefy enough onboard GPUs to power 1080p ultrawide? I want do do a home theatre build for around $500 and im waffling between a prebuilt or building it. There are just too many different processors and it doesnt help that a lot of the prebuilts are using 3+ year old stuff There are Intel NUCs now that have Isis 540 GPUs built in that should be able to handle 1080p no problem, as they're rated to (but obviously wouldn't perform well at) 4096x2304@60Hz. That being said, those NUCs cost ~$350 to start, and that's before RAM, an M.2 SSD, and an OS license, which will bring the sunk cost above your $500 limit, but give you a really cute and compact little powerhouse.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:21
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