|
So, I might be looking at an XJ for a fun project. Kind of want to do a Mercedes diesel conversion, because underpowered diesels make me happy.
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2016 17:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
mattfl posted:You brought that on yourself lol Yup lol. Just going to use a wheel chock on any surface that isn't level
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2016 17:42
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:So, I might be looking at an XJ for a fun project. Kind of want to do a Mercedes diesel conversion, because underpowered diesels make me happy. Here's a place to start https://spacecoast.craigslist.org/cto/5730698295.html quote:Selling my '99 Jeep Cherokee Country project. The Cherokee is in very good, rust-free condition and I've done the ZJ interior swap and ZJ rear disc brake swap. It has p/w, p/l, tilt wheel, etc. It was 4x4 but I converted to 2WD as it is/was going to be a daily driver and I dont go off-road plus going back to a straight front axle lessened my oil pan clearance issues. So the Jeep eng/trans & xfer case/exhaust are gone. It has the Chrysler 8.25 rear with 3.55 gearing and rear air shocks with dash mount control. This was going to be a manual transmission swap so I did install the clutch/brake pedal set-up with the clutch master cylinder but I still have the automatic trans brake pedal and the auto shifter & cable is still installed and intact if someone wanted to keep it automatic. I get why he got rid of the 4x4 drive train but come on, this is Florida. There's 2wd XJ's all over the drat place and they sell for next to nothing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2016 17:47
|
|
|
DAT RAM posted:Here's a place to start Its no fun if I have to ditch the 4x4.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2016 17:51
|
|
|
If anyone with a 2012+ JK happens to have the battery out in the next couple of days, I'd love to see a picture of the inside of the tray. I have this weird piece that fits with a 10mm bolt...and no idea where the gently caress they go. I can account for 3 of the 4 regular 10mm bolts, there's another shorter 10mm that goes in the front (picture right), and 3 nuts that go on the firewall. Then there's the other two pieces. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 05:53
|
|
|
Baby pulled his first transmission today! now to get the new one back in 
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 01:54
|
|
|
Free 99 grand cherokee with blown engine. good idea, bad idea? Looks like you can get a used 4.7 for under 1k, or closer to 2 for a rebuilt block. It would be kind of nice to have something to drive around on mountain roads around here, a lowered subaru doesn't really cut it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 02:20
|
|
|
jamal posted:Free 99 grand cherokee with blown engine. good idea, bad idea? Looks like you can get a used 4.7 for under 1k, or closer to 2 for a rebuilt block. It would be kind of nice to have something to drive around on mountain roads around here, a lowered subaru doesn't really cut it. Not to bad a deal as long as its not rusted to hell. But the 4.7 is actually a decent motor if taken care of well. Most of the ones with valve issues have very irregular oil change schedules. The only downside to the 99 model year is the rear axles are usually the aluminum dana 44 which is leak city. But you appear to be good with tools and replacing the seals on those isnt extremely difficult just time consuming. Edit: Just noticed the free part. Worth it then if you need a mountainside beater.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 02:35
|
|
|
All the V8s got a 3.73 aluminum 44. AFAIK the factory only ever supplied 3.73s in the 44a, so you won't find them factory in 4.0 WJs. All the 4.0s got a 3.55 dana 35 as far as I know. Nothing to do with year. If it leaks just fill it up, it keeps the rust off. Free is a great price for that, you can part it out and make money if it comes down to it. 4.7s have a few issues, the oiling issues that clam ache alluded to and also the valve seat issue that seems to strike randomly but is more likely if the engine was overheated or abused. Borescope any engine you buy before buying it... and make sure it's the right year, they changed the crank position sensor reluctor tooth pattern at some point in the middle of the 4.7 production run and they are in no way compatible. The easy way if you are pulling the engine out of a running donor vehicle is to count the plugs on the ECU, if there are 4 plugs it will only work in a recipient vehicle with 4 plugs and if it is 3 plugs it only works in a 3 plug vehicle. This isn't specifically because of the plug count, it's just convenient because they redesigned the ECU at the same time as changing the crank slot pattern. It's very important because you have to get pretty deep into the motor before you can change the reluctor wheel out, so it's not like you can yank the one off your old motor. If you've never worked on a 4.7 WJ before and the motor is already pulled from it, I would part it out, you are going to be chasing missing parts and bolts and wires and scratching your head forever. If it comes with the blown motor still in it, I'm sure you can figure it out no problem. I'll be honest, if I liked the look I'd be fine running a WJ after dealing with the known weak points. The chassis are significantly more rigid and seemingly more rust resistant than XJs and ZJs, the NVH is way lower, and they're in general better designed. Little stuff like not driving selftappers into the unibody everywhere to attach the interior panels, they mostly snap in with plastic clips or screw into plastic clips instead, etc. There are just plenty of weak points in the drivetrain and no manual or pickup option available, so I stick with MJs and stuff. They do have some really cool varilok diffs available as well if you either get lucky and yours comes with them, or you grab some at the boneyard.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 16:14
|
|
|
Thanks It's a friend's, I noticed it was burning oil driving behind him awhile ago and he says the engine seized. He got a replacement vehicle already, so it's just sitting behind his house. Probably will be there for years unless I track down an engine and put it in. I noticed while browsing engines on ebay there were 4.7s listed for a variety of newer durangos etc and then others listed for certain years of jeeps, so I assume that was the difference. Looks like the change happened for 01 or 02. Conversely I could get something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-7L-ENGINE...5BREDZ5&vxp=mtr plus a gasket kit and water pump should probably cover it. Bolt patterns for water pumps and manifolds and bellhousings never changed I guess? jamal fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Oct 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 18:50
|
|
|
Far as I know you are right about that. It looks like that company wants you to call them with your VIN (probably just the engine digit is what they actually want, of course) so they can just build you one compatible with your vehicle.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 20:02
|
|
|
Guyyyyys need some help, my MJ is running like poo poo  Didn't drive it for a couple weeks then drove it to and from work, all good. Started it up later and almost stalled out right away, could barely get it into first or reverse unless I feathered the throttle a bit. Once into second it seemed better, third seems mostly normal. Coming to stops it has low/erratic idle. Now when I start it up it sounds like a cement mixer or a washing machine with a bunch of sneakers in it for like 10 seconds, then revs way up to like 4000 rpm all of a sudden, then goes back to about 700. So far I've just replaced the fuel filter and filled it up with fresh gas, it seemed like that fixed it at first but went back to running badly on the test drive. Just looking for some insight on what to try next before I start shotgunning parts at this thing. Once other thing I noticed is there is a definite leak either from the oil pan gasket or possibly the transmission (ax-15)... really hoping i haven't been running it dry, gonna check the transmission level first thing tomorrow (oil level is fine). TACTICAL SANDALS fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Oct 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 00:32
|
|
|
kastein posted:All the V8s got a 3.73 aluminum 44. AFAIK the factory only ever supplied 3.73s in the 44a, so you won't find them factory in 4.0 WJs. I *think* you could get 3.73 as an option in the 4.0, but yeah I don't know that I've ever seen/heard of any ratio other than 3.73 in the 4.7 WJ. Also, while the 4.7 as a whole definitely had a mixed-year transition period from the JTEC / 16-tooth to the NGC / 32-tooth reluctors, the more I look at it the more I think that the US WJ only ever received the 16-tooth JTEC setup. Various interchange sites list the 32-tooth as an option, but if you dig through the service manuals and wiring diagrams, there doesn't seem to be any mention of optional wiring setups that would go with a newer computer. The supposed 32-tooth WJ would've only been the last year of production anyway. At any rate, a '99 WJ should only have a 16-tooth engine in it, and you should be able to swap any other 16-tooth 4.7 in its place. Which pretty much is just the regular ~230hp original 4.7 and the ~260hp 4.7HO. In theory you could swap the crank and cam wheels on a later 300hp WK/XK/Ram 4.7 and use it but I don't recall seeing much in the way of anyone actually doing this. Crank has to come out to do the crank wheel, anyway. Plan on replacing window regulators, the cooling system is just behind BMW in terms of chasing down stupid loving leaks, but really I'm quite happy with mine. A 2" spacer lift is dirt loving cheap and really is about the height these things should've been stock. I was debating going long-arm eventually but I might just grab some aftermarket Upcountry springs to get to about 3" total lift, and trim as needed to fit 31" tires. Edit: also, supposedly a LubeLocker gasket for the D44a might actually exist by the end of the year! IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Oct 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 00:44
|
|
|
Double posting. The one issue with the 4.7HO: when you let someone borrow it and they're nice enough to fill it up before returning it. With 87. Time to drive like a grandma for a few weeks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 03:38
|
|
|
I'm not familiar with what vehicles or years get the 3 vs 4 plug and 16 vs 32 tooth reluctors, so that's great info to have. I just warn people about it because nothing sucks like doing an engine swap TWICE, it's super easy to check before getting an engine, and I can't find a reliable source of info (having not looked in the factory parts catalogs yet) to say what years and models got what.TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Guyyyyys need some help, my MJ is running like poo poo Check your fuel pressure and ignition coil, clean the throttle body if you haven't already (I doubt it'd suddenly cause an issue, but it's basically a freebie and needs doing once in a while anyways) and if you have an analog multimeter, maybe sweep the TPS with it, see if it's got any dead spots. You'd see it on the gauge if the oil pressure became an issue, unless it's a dummy lamp, then who knows. I've run 4.0Ls as low as 1.5-2qt of oil and they had full pressure on the highway, then would start spiking to zero randomly on the gauge and the lifters would start rattling since they seem to lose oil pressure first. At that point, I'd shrug because I just put more rod bearing material in the sump, pull over, and dump another 4 quarts in   It certainly wasn't good for the motor, so don't follow my lead on that, but it handled it just fine. Was even pretty quiet when I pulled it (due to a broken off motor mount on the passenger side) and then I tore it down and discovered every rod bearing had 2/3 of the copper showing, the cam bearings were badly damaged by debris, and the crank bearings looked like someone dumped sand in them during assembly. Oh, and it had like 10-15 thou of ring ridge on every cylinder at the top. Ran like a top till then, though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 14:49
|
|
|
I just had to replace the centering ball unit in my rear drive shaft for what feels like the millionth time. I'm pretty sure the 8.8 rear is the problem. The pinion is about 3" off center vs the dana 44 that came with the jeep. I'm also still using the factory rear track bar, so the axle is off center under the jeep. I'm going to order an adjustable rear bar to center the axle and I'm hoping that will be enough to save my driveshafts. Would a motor mount lift further help the angle? Seems like it would be a pretty slight difference, but I guess they all add up. What about pulling the axle even further over to get the pinion slightly straighter, cancelling out one of the three inches that it's off? I could pull it over an inch further to one side and use a wheel spacer on the opposite wheel so that it tracks appropriately. e: nm, I forgot that shocks and springs exist and would be negatively impacted. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Oct 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 15:46
|
|
|
gently caress. Reassembled the interior and turned the key to see if everything worked, and I've got the ESCOFF message. I guess I missed a plug somewhere...hopefully it's either a test mode, related to the fan and MAP/MAF/whatever being unplugged, or it's in the console since the cover is still off. Old radiator looks like poo poo with caked-on, boiled-over orange coolant gumming it up all down one side. Edit: ESCOFF is probably because it's in 4L so the console could come off. Disaster hopefully averted. Godholio fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Oct 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 15:49
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I just had to replace the centering ball unit in my rear drive shaft for what feels like the millionth time. I'm pretty sure the 8.8 rear is the problem. The pinion is about 3" off center vs the dana 44 that came with the jeep. I'm also still using the factory rear track bar, so the axle is off center under the jeep. I'm going to order an adjustable rear bar to center the axle and I'm hoping that will be enough to save my driveshafts. Motor mount lift may help, since it'll tip the rear output of the tcase down a bit unless you also lift the trans. Moving the axle over will reduce the CV angle too though, not sure how much. It should help the ujoint at the 8.8 pinion a bit too.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 16:17
|
|
|
kastein posted:I'm not familiar with what vehicles or years get the 3 vs 4 plug and 16 vs 32 tooth reluctors, so that's great info to have. I just warn people about it because nothing sucks like doing an engine swap TWICE, it's super easy to check before getting an engine, and I can't find a reliable source of info (having not looked in the factory parts catalogs yet) to say what years and models got what. Thanks man, I tested the fuel pressure this morning and got like 42 when priming the pump and it settled to around 32 after starting at idle. Here's a video of starting it up if anyone feels like watching, it settles into a fairly normal idle in the video but gets rough again a minute later after I stopped recording. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLkhoxLtBME Oil pressure reads normal. I'll test the ignition system later tonight. Could it be a clogged injector maybe? Will report back, thanks for the advice!
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 16:38
|
|
|
Maybe? I hadn't thought of that, I've never seen an injector fail... yet. If the ignition coil is bulging and/or has visible cracks in the plastic case, just replace it, it's only a matter of time before the windings get corroded and break. I fought with a weird occasional engine bog and lovely starts for years on my 98 before it finally no-started on me one morning. If it doesn't fix it, keep the old one in the glovebox as your emergency spare, since it clearly wasn't the problem.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 17:37
|
|
|
kastein posted:Maybe? I hadn't thought of that, I've never seen an injector fail... yet. Yeah the coil is the only part of the ignition system I haven't replaced recently, I'll check it out. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 18:34
|
|
|
Double posting with update! Didn't have a lot of free time tonight so decided to replace plugs first on a hunch. Here are three of the old ones: Pretty gnarly. Super burnt and with oil all up in the threads. Now, I put those old ones in before I fixed my leaky valve cover gasket so hopefully the new ones won't get oil in them too. Took it for an extended test drive after the plugs and... ran totally fine. No hiccups although it seems to be running a little hot again. I think the plugs were just a symptom and not the underlying issue so I'm still going to clean the throttle body/TPS/IAC, replace the ignition coil with a Mopar one (current is an aftermarket one that gets some really nasty reviews online) and check all my grounds and vaccum lines. Also - my battery terminal ends are a total disaster, is there a recommended replacement?
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2016 06:15
|
|
|
248 in-lbs my rear end, Chrysler. Pentastar owners: go easy on the thermostat housing...the factory service manual torque spec is obviously less than ideal. And if you replace the thing, make sure you pull the gasket off first. Mine was glued onto the block by sand, and pulled right out of the housing it's supposed to hold onto. You'll easily crush a new plastic housing if there are two gaskets there. Thank god it sheared off with just enough expossed to grab and turn with vice grips.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2016 19:11
|
|
|
That sounds like a typo. Looks like about M6 and the torque spec for those is generally around half what you did there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2016 19:23
|
|
|
If it's a typo, it's consistent. The conversion checks. I'm really glad it didn't crush the plastic housing. "4. Install two thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (248 in. lbs.)." Edit: Crossposting from stupid question thread and a couple of other places because fffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuccccccccccccccckkkkkkkkkkkkk: Today I finally finished replacing my sand-filled heater core (with a NAPA unit) and radiator (Flex-a-lite). This job involves removing the entire dash assembly, center console, and the battery tray...which means removing the TIPM and unplugging a whole lot of other connectors. And I think I missed one during reassembly. Symptom: Fuel gauge indicates empty. I don't remember how much is in there, but I know it's not empty. The engine cranks and cranks, but won't fire...it acts like it's out of gas. I did the gauge cluster test and the fuel gauge tests fine. I lifted the TIPM as far as I could and checked that the connectors underneath are all plugged in completely. So's the big connector next to the battery inside the tray, and the two underneath it (can barely get to them from underneath). The two grounds on the fender next to the TIPM are tight. There's another ground point hidden under that arch where the tray bolts on top of the fender...there's nothing on that but I don't see loose cables underneath (peeking through the gap) and the paint doesn't look like it's been wrenched on. My theory is that somewhere, there's a connector under the hood that ties the fuel pump/sender to a computer, and I left it unplugged. Does anyone have ANY idea where to find it? Or if there's something else that could cause this? The fact that the gauge reads empty but functions and the assumption that the engine isn't getting fuel tells me it's (probably) a common problem related to communication. The factory service manual doesn't include wiring diagrams, because gently caress Chrysler and Alldata. Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Oct 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2016 21:52
|
|
|
Solved my 1988 XJ's crank but no-start condition today - I couldn't hear the fuel pump priming anymore when I turned the key on, so I figured pump was dead. In my searches I found an old post somewhere outlining a way to jump power straight to the pump using the ancient pre-OBD diagnostic port. Of course with Jeeps (RENIX in particular) you can never be too sure about the goddamn wiring or electric issues, so I tried it out: Worked great: I could hear the pump turn on and run immediately, and it delivered 39psi at the rail so that told me it and the wiring to it was fine. Strange. I then tested spark again, and whereas I was getting it a few days before now there was no spark off the coil at all. I did some multimeter testing (still learning this but it's super neato) on some of the relays and wasn't getting voltage where I should be with the key on. Hmmm. I replaced the apparently original old starter relay, but that didn't change anything which led me to the ignition switch:   The switch looked like brand new aftermarket which was discouraging, but I pulled it out and noticed some scorching on the plug. Swapped in the new one (holy gently caress this sucks when you're 6'3" and have huge arms/hands), reconnected the essentials and the old bastard started right up! drat it was good to hear the fuel pump prime when I turned the key. Looks like I'll be adding a spare ignition switch to my Offroad Essentials box. Here, have a bonus factory duct-tape splice: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 03:45
|
|
|
Godholio posted:The factory service manual doesn't include wiring diagrams, because gently caress Chrysler and Alldata. Did you check bbbind.com yet?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 04:25
|
|
|
No because I have no idea what I'm doing on that site.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 04:34
|
|
|
Godholio posted:No because I have no idea what I'm doing on that site. http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html for wiring diagrams galore.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 04:42
|
|
|
I was digging through the Technical Information section.  If I can get it to actually display the "1 diagrams found" I'll be in business.I found the goddamn connector, hiding under the airbox and power steering reservoir. I think I unplugged it around 12:30 AM as I maneuvered the radiator into place. The jeep starts and seems to run fine. However... The brake lights stay on. Even while the key is off. The only way to to turn them off is to disconnect the battery or unplug the brake pedal switch. But unplugging the switch only works if the Jeep is off...if the key is on, the loving brake lights are on even with the switch unplugged. Also, the ABS and traction control lights are on. This makes zero loving sense to me, unless there's something else unplugged.  Edit: Current theory: dummy lights are on because the steering wheel is slightly off-center. Apparently that's a thing. Brake lights...SOMEHOW, the pedal isn't engaging the switch. I can push the plunger myself and the lights go out. Apparently the OE switch can be adjusted, but naturally I replaced mine a few months ago. This is a new problem, and I have no idea why. I didn't mess with the pedal, it's attached to the dash assembly so the whole thing came out for this work. Godholio fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Oct 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 05:55
|
|
|
A lot of manufacturers drill a hole in the pedal arm where the brake light switch would touch it, and install a rubber bit (for lack of a better term) to press the switch. When the rubber rots out, the pin from the brake light switch goes right through the hole. I don't know if Jeep does this or not. If they do, a decent temp fix is to use some tape to attach a penny over the hole in the pedal arm.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 07:50
|
|
|
There's not a hole through the arm, but it's tough to see with my weak-rear end flashlight. I'll have a better look in the morning, but I was thinking about doing something like that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 08:55
|
|
|
I have an untraceable coolant leak  Somehow, last night, I came out to a cold Jeep which had about a 2" wet spot underneath the front/center of the engine. Popped the hood and poked around with a flashlight and I saw a small amount of wetness on the top of the water pump. Yet as I've driven it since, it's...dried up. Overflow bottle wasn't even all the way down to the "add" mark. Upper hose had a tiny seep at the radiator side (tightened the clamp and fixed) and no fluid trail from there back to the engine. PO had a shop replace the water pump a bit over two years ago... wondering if this is somehow some sort of intermittent leak on that water pump gasket or what the hell. Thinking I might just order a new pump and throw it on to rule it out unless someone has a better idea.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 17:15
|
|
|
Godholio posted:There's not a hole through the arm, but it's tough to see with my weak-rear end flashlight. I'll have a better look in the morning, but I was thinking about doing something like that. Basically I'm dumb. The booster wasn't pushing the pedal to its normal resting position. Apparently while I had it idling (looking for coolant leaks) late last night I didn't press the pedal. I know I did while it was off, but today I pressed while it was running and everything works fine. The dummy lights went out almost immediately upon rolling. The fan kicks in right around 226* as it should, cooled it right down to ~200 (it took some effort to even get it that warm). The heater is blowing hot-ish. Once I get the system topped off that should work well again. JK heaters are like goddamned volcanoes if they're not hosed. Everything thing functioned as expected/hoped for about a 15 minute test drive around the neighborhood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 18:15
|
|
|
My grandfather passed and no one wants his Jeep. I kinda want it. 2000 Grand Cherokee V8. 139k miles. No leaks that i can see. Shifts great, no engine noises I'm concerned with. Drives straight, no pull. Brakes are shot, oil is black, faint clunk in the back end somewhere. Inside goodies all work except cruise. Could probably pick it up for $1500. What should I look for?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 23:48
|
|
|
Kastein and I hit on it earlier in the page. Brakes: Upgrade to Akebono calipers up front, new pads and rotors, spend for some decent rotors as the WJ shreds them. Faint clunk: Could be any of a bunch of things, most of which are cheap and not too much of a pain in the dick. Swaybar endlinks, bushings in the upper or lower A-arms, driveshaft u-joint, upper balljoint. The upper A-arm bushings / balljoint are probably the worst on that list. Cruise is probably a vacuum leak issue, I know I've seen a bunch of poo poo on Jeepforum about it. A/C blend doors fail regularly, but it's not too bad to hack a hole in the box and put some stronger ones in. Recirculate door does the same thing and unfortunately there's no easy way to fix it. I'm about to unplug and ziptie mine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2016 23:59
|
|
|
Godholio posted:Basically I'm dumb. Volcano heat has returned  Temps typically hovered between 200 and 210 over my 25 mile highway and 5 mile city/rural (lots of stop signs) commute. The fan never had a chance to kick in. Granted, it's about 72* out so not exactly mid-summer weather, but it was trying to boil over in similar weather a few weeks ago.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2016 01:04
|
|
|
Finally met someone who wasn't enthralled with the build quality of pre-buyout Poison Spyder bumpers
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2016 03:05
|
|
|
Harsh, but just.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2016 03:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
He was on his cell phone, soooooooo deservedly so
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2016 03:17
|
|