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Is it safe to replace the incandescents in my range hood with LEDs, or would the heat and oil spatter/mist wreck them?
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Sep 29, 2016 13:53
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E: wrong thread!
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Sep 29, 2016 16:13
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So I was taking a shower a few days ago, and the water pressure dropped like someone had flushed a toilet (pretty sure my shower valve does the thing to compensate for that so you don't get scalded) but nobody flushed the toilet the pressure hasn't returned to normal in the shower for several days. Is it possible for that compensating valve to go bad and get stuck somehow? The only other thing I can think of is a very leaky pipe inside the wall but not sure how I would confirm/rule that out.
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Sep 29, 2016 18:17
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but I don't know what else it would be. Is there a way to remove price stickers from cardboard without leaving a mark? If it makes a difference, they are price stickers from the '80s. I got some collectibles still in their boxes when I helped someone move, and some of them have sale stickers on them.
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Sep 29, 2016 19:04
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Since it's cardboard you can't goo gone it. You could try a hair dryer. The sticker itself is likely to have left a greasy mark on the cardboard, so be prepared for that regardless of how you remove it.
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Sep 29, 2016 20:15
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Slugworth posted:It's of course hard to guess since we haven't seen the location, but if it's a leaky roof penetration like your plumbing stack or a bathroom exhaust fan, etc, the water could simply be taking a ride along the pipe/vent. Otherwise, it could be simply riding along a joist, or something else. The second a drop of water hits an angled surface of some sort, it'll start moving away from the actual source. Huh. That makes sense. Thanks. So, uh, who would be the best type of professional to call about this sort of thing? I am honestly unsure and I've been told a couple different things by different people, with no straight answer.
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Sep 29, 2016 21:42
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FISHMANPET posted:So I was taking a shower a few days ago, and the water pressure dropped like someone had flushed a toilet (pretty sure my shower valve does the thing to compensate for that so you don't get scalded) but nobody flushed the toilet the pressure hasn't returned to normal in the shower for several days. Is it possible for that compensating valve to go bad and get stuck somehow? The only other thing I can think of is a very leaky pipe inside the wall but not sure how I would confirm/rule that out. Can you see your water meter? If you have an active leak, it will be apparent. Water meters usually have a little indicator when water is flowing that spins. With all valves closed, it should not move. If it is, you have a leak and should deal asap.
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Sep 29, 2016 22:05
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So I had this three prong floor outlet I wanted to change since we got our floors done, it looks like the wiring is old though. Am I correct that this wasn't grounded and the wiring needs to be updated? The wiring and what was attached are in these images 
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Sep 30, 2016 03:07
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The Dave posted:So I had this three prong floor outlet I wanted to change since we got our floors done, it looks like the wiring is old though. Am I correct that this wasn't grounded and the wiring needs to be updated? The wiring and what was attached are in these images Most likely not. Cloth wrapped wire like that was used in the 1940s and prior, while ground wires only started being included in NM cable in the 1950s. Unless that box was grounded on the outside, it's actually illegal to have a 3 prong outlet there. Do you have a circuit tester or multimeter? You'd need one to verify the remote possibility if that box is grounded or not. Turn the power back on and test for a circuit between the hot wire and the steel box. You may have to replace that outlet with a 2 prong one. The problem is that I haven't seen a 2 prong single outlet for sale in years. You may have to replace it with a 2 prong duplex and get a new faceplate for it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Sep 30, 2016 |
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Sep 30, 2016 04:23
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hogmartin posted:Is it safe to replace the incandescents in my range hood with LEDs, or would the heat and oil spatter/mist wreck them? Incandescents are more heat tolerant than leds, as heat is what most often kills leds. Incandescents on the other hand are eventually killed by expansion/contraction of the filament wire when it turns on/off. That being said, in a range hood? gently caress it, why not, led bulbs are crazy cheap these days, and I doubt the heat would be enough to affect them so much up there. Speaking of lights, have a fascinating article about an incandescent bulb that's been burning continuously for the last hundred years!
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Sep 30, 2016 04:43
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kid sinister posted:Unless that box was grounded on the outside, it's actually illegal to have a 3 prong outlet there. What's the legal path of least resistance for getting a three prong there, assuming the box isn't grounded?
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Sep 30, 2016 13:00
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The Dave posted:What's the legal path of least resistance for getting a three prong there, assuming the box isn't grounded? Get a GFCI receptacle. It will come with a little sticker that says "NO GROUND." Put that sticker on the receptacle. This will require a new faceplate.
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Sep 30, 2016 13:03
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Phanatic posted:Get a GFCI receptacle. It will come with a little sticker that says "NO GROUND." Put that sticker on the receptacle. This will require a new faceplate. ...especially for a floor receptacle. Floor faceplates have to be very strong and thick. They kind of depend on the cross section in the middle of the plate between the outlets on a duplex for strength. You might have to replace the box too in order to find one with a faceplate that can take a GFCI/Decora sized device. Another option is to run a ground wire for just that box and use any outlet you want. That box doesn't look original. If that box is in the floor, is there an unfinished basement underneath that box? For this you would go buy yourself a single green wire of matching gauge and run it from that box all the way to the grounding busbar inside your breaker panel. Staple it up nice too.
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Sep 30, 2016 17:47
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NerdyMcNerdNerd posted:I've posted about a water problem of mine before. Tonight, it started raining somewhat heavily outside. As a result, it also began raining inside my bathroom. I grabbed my flashlight, I ran up to the attic, opened the crawlspace, and found... bupkis. No mold, no suspiciously squirrel-sized hole in the roof, nothing. A lot of the insulation has fallen down, but that's probably because it is older than I am. I couldn't access all of the attic, but I managed to hear a steady drip coming from... about the same spot it is drizzling in my goddamn bathroom. Probably best to get someone who's licensed, insured and bonded because it's roof work- and yes, it's perfectly fine to ask for a copy of this documentation before hiring anyone. Since they'll presumably be up on the roof without you to verify their diagnosis, it might be a good idea to get multiple estimates. I believe Angie's List is now free to read reviews, so that may be helpful if you can't get any referrals.
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Sep 30, 2016 19:18
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I have a sump pump, that splashes water outside the sump well. Upon observing it in operation, I believe the cause of the issue is there is a steady spray of water coming out of the relief hole - what bothers me is the relief hole is really big. I would have to scrape a lot of crud off the top of my sump pump to find the model number etc, but Google suggests this relief hole should typically be 3/32", mine is a massive 1/2" jagged hole. The pump seems to be happy running like this, it sends most of the water up top and pisses a garden hose size stream back into the well at the same time but it's been going like this for years trouble free, except for the puddle on my floor. The puddle is not a big issue, just a damp spot that slowly splatters on all my poo poo near the sump pump, it's just annoying that I know have a piece of scrap lumber with black mold all over it (was probably sitting there for a year). The way I see it I have two options - I can try to replace the section of PVC pipe with a hole that is not tremendously huge, or I could try to find a better fitting lid. This fine piece of poo poo is what currently tops my sump - the big oval cut out spanning almost the entire diameter is not water tight. . . But I have a lid, and it appears to be in one piece, and I'm just not sure that a new lid is the right thing to do since the relief hole is so loving massive.
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Oct 2, 2016 00:30
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Crotch Fruit posted:I have a sump pump, that splashes water outside the sump well. Upon observing it in operation, I believe the cause of the issue is there is a steady spray of water coming out of the relief hole - what bothers me is the relief hole is really big. I would have to scrape a lot of crud off the top of my sump pump to find the model number etc, but Google suggests this relief hole should typically be 3/32", mine is a massive 1/2" jagged hole. The pump seems to be happy running like this, it sends most of the water up top and pisses a garden hose size stream back into the well at the same time but it's been going like this for years trouble free, except for the puddle on my floor. The puddle is not a big issue, just a damp spot that slowly splatters on all my poo poo near the sump pump, it's just annoying that I know have a piece of scrap lumber with black mold all over it (was probably sitting there for a year). Remember to angle your new hole downwards. Also, it's not a bad idea to scrape off the crud and find the model number. The owners manual may call out a different size hole than standard, and frankly, if the relief hole is a big jagged hole, comparing the whole install to the manufacturer's recommendations might not be a bad idea. The installer might have done some other silly nonsense. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 01:14
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I'm going to tear down all the walls on my first floor this fall/winter in preparation for redoing stuff next spring. It's all 1/2" thick plaster on wood lath absolutely nothing behind it for insulation, I'm pretty sure as soon as I take it down I'll be looking at TW backside of the original clapboard siding (which over the past century has been covered with insul-brick and aluminum siding). What should I consider doing for some not terribly expensive insulation? Or should I just go ahead and spray in proper permanent insulation as I get the exterior walls down?
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Oct 2, 2016 01:54
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I need to solder the capacitor at right back onto my quad, came off after a crash last weekend I've never soldered before, do I need to clean the old stuff off and apply new, or just add more or can I reuse what's there or what And method, should I hot glue down the cap in the center and just add solder or will the solder itself secure the thing
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Oct 2, 2016 02:27
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Ciaphas posted:I need to solder the capacitor at right back onto my quad, came off after a crash last weekend We have an electronics thread here in DIY, but what you have to do isn't that hard. It's generally a good idea to remove the old solder since it already failed once. Use some soldering wick for that. New solder will hold down the new part, no glue needed, but you may need some tweezers or a helping hand tool to hold the part while you solder it back on. Make sure you match the orientation outline on the board. Edit: if you have never soldered before, what do you have for soldering gear? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 03:15
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kid sinister posted:We have an electronics thread here in DIY, but what you have to do isn't that hard. It's generally a good idea to remove the old solder since it already failed once. Use some soldering wick for that. New solder will hold down the new part, no glue needed, but you may need some tweezers or a helping hand tool to hold the part while you solder it back on. Make sure you match the orientation outline on the board. An ancient iron and some wire I got from... uh... hosed if I know but it's Radioshack brand... about a decade ago maybe (it was in a box of moving junk), and naught else, not even any solder or whatever yet. I have stuff on the way from Amazon though--this soldering station and this handy hands thingy.
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Oct 2, 2016 03:56
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You are going to hate everything about that handy helper, trust me.
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Oct 2, 2016 04:08
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Ciaphas posted:An ancient iron and some wire I got from... uh... hosed if I know but it's Radioshack brand... about a decade ago maybe (it was in a box of moving junk), and naught else, not even any solder or whatever yet. I have stuff on the way from Amazon though--this soldering station and this handy hands thingy. You'll still need rosin core solder, some soldering wick/desoldering braid and some big tweezers. You want the tweezers because it's a bad idea to try to hold such a tiny part with your fingers so close to the tip of a soldering iron. Even if you don't burn your fingers directly with the iron, that part you're holding will get very hot very fast. Crotch Fruit posted:You are going to hate everything about that handy helper, trust me. You're only saying that because they take forever to adjust properly, especially for newbies. But once you get used to adjusting them, helping hands are very, well, handy. edit: General soldering tips! The tip of a soldering iron gets hot enough to melt metal. Keep your fingers as far as possible from the tip and don't burn your house down. You want some solder on the tip (called "tinning") but not so much that it drips off. That's what the sponge on the holder stand is for removing. Make sure you wet it first. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 18:25
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If you don't have desolder wick you can strip some stranded wire way back, spread the strands out, fold them back on themselves once or twice, and that'll do you one or two spots, enough to get this job done. If you're gonna solder a lot definitely get the premade stuff though. And get a wick not solder-suckers, I've never gotten those things to work.
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Oct 2, 2016 18:30
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Enourmo posted:And get a wick not solder-suckers, I've never gotten those things to work. Solder suckers work for bigger stuff like through-hole components. Wicks are for smaller things. In fact they work great for solder stuck in the holes that wicks just can't reach. Oooh, another desoldering tip. I know it sounds counter productive, but if you have some solder to remove that just isn't cooperating, try adding fresh solder to it, then try removing it.
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Oct 2, 2016 18:35
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I thought you're supposed to hold the wick on the solder and heat the wick, letting it draw up the solder. Do you just hold it with something or have I been doing it wrong? By the time the solder heats up, the wick is burning me. Anyone know of a good, cheapish iron? I have the cheap RadioShack one and it definitely does not heat at the very tip, regardless of being tinned, and I always burn the poo poo out of whatever surface I'm trying to solder to. E: VVV thanks BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 18:36
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NancyPants posted:I thought you're supposed to hold the wick on the solder and heat the wick, letting it draw up the solder. Do you just hold it with something or have I been doing it wrong? By the time the solder heats up, the wick is burning me. You're not using enough wick then. It's common to unroll 6 to 8 inches of wick and hold it that far out. Once it's cooled down, you can always cut off the wick that was used and roll up the rest. If you're down to the very end of the roll, hold it with some pliers or other tool. I like the 35 watt Weller. It's pretty good with changeable tips. Watch out for a lot of that stuff. There's a lot of cheap Chinese crappy crap out there. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 18:40
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kid sinister posted:Oooh, another desoldering tip. I know it sounds counter productive, but if you have some solder to remove that just isn't cooperating, try adding fresh solder to it, then try removing it. This is a really good commonly overlooked soldering tip. Fresh solder helps everything. Currently covering surfaces I don't want to clean plaster dust off of in plastic sheeting, electricians arrive 8AM tomorrow morning to hopefully not burn my house down / re-wire the house. (Zinsco -> Trash, 60A -> 200A service, no more rubber/cloth wires, it's going to be magical.) Bought a HEPA filter + bag for my shop vac. I hope I'm not forgetting anything we will realize later we want them to wire. Having all of the fans + potential fan location wired with /3 wire and a stacked switch in case I want to add a fan later. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 19:20
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Thanks for all the soldering tips ( ). I'll grab the rest of the stuff I need today while I wait for the iron to arrive.
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Oct 2, 2016 20:12
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H110Hawk posted:Currently covering surfaces I don't want to clean plaster dust off of in plastic sheeting, electricians arrive 8AM tomorrow morning to hopefully not burn my house down / re-wire the house. (Zinsco -> Trash, 60A -> 200A service, no more rubber/cloth wires, it's going to be magical.) Bought a HEPA filter + bag for my shop vac. If you don't mind saying, how big's your house and how much is it running you to do this? I need to get my house rewired; it's one of the remaining big deferred maintenance items from when I bought the place. In any case, good luck, and I hope it goes smoothly!
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Oct 2, 2016 20:58
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you don't mind saying, how big's your house and how much is it running you to do this? I need to get my house rewired; it's one of the remaining big deferred maintenance items from when I bought the place. I mean you're going to rebuild your house right? Few grand in materials and do it before you put up the sheet rock while you live in your workshop! 1250 sq ft 3br/2ba (don't judge me on the 200A service...) my spreadsheet shows ~$10k broken out as $9265 electrical and $1000 guestimate on plaster patching but it could be double that depending on how many holes they make. This company just makes the holes, they don't fix the holes. The plaster referral they gave quotes $35 / 1'x1' or $75-125 8'xfewinches "to the ceiling" hole. We are likely going to do our own painting. Includes a trench out to the garage and a 100A sub for the garage. (It's only a few hundred bucks upgrade over the 60A originally quoted!), GFCI/AFCI upgrades all around, decora switches and outlets, above mentioned /3 wire for fan+light control and a stacked single gang switch in 5 places, 2 bonus outlets behind the nightstands in the master bedroom, and a new weather head actually above the house not out of the side of the house. My dad owns a lot of power tools I will one day own. He's been sending me pictures of all the electrical he's been doing for his workshop. It is... nuts. Like him.
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Oct 2, 2016 22:19
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H110Hawk posted:I mean you're going to rebuild your house right? Few grand in materials and do it before you put up the sheet rock while you live in your workshop! quote:1250 sq ft 3br/2ba (don't judge me on the 200A service...) my spreadsheet shows ~$10k broken out as $9265 electrical and $1000 guestimate on plaster patching but it could be double that depending on how many holes they make. This company just makes the holes, they don't fix the holes. The plaster referral they gave quotes $35 / 1'x1' or $75-125 8'xfewinches "to the ceiling" hole. We are likely going to do our own painting. Awesome, thanks for sharing. I've a 4br/2ba here, but a similar square footage, so I'm guessing an estimate would probably be within a few thousand of what you're facing. Something for me to save up for, anyway. I wouldn't need the trench or new subpanel, of course. quote:My dad owns a lot of power tools I will one day own. He's been sending me pictures of all the electrical he's been doing for his workshop. It is... nuts. Like him. Just so long as he doesn't burn his house down!
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Oct 2, 2016 23:00
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Is Klean Strip Premium Stripper in a can from HOme Depot good stuff? I let it sit for 20 min, I can scrape off a paint colored sludge but otherwise can hardly tell it did anything. . . I see Klean Strip also has an "aircraft remover" with far more safety warnings which I'm assuming is what I need. I'm trying to strip the finish off a 1980's Craftsman table saw stand, the stripper I have appears to be working just extremely slow.
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Oct 3, 2016 04:53
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Crotch Fruit posted:Is Klean Strip Premium Stripper in a can from HOme Depot good stuff? I let it sit for 20 min, I can scrape off a paint colored sludge but otherwise can hardly tell it did anything. . . I see Klean Strip also has an "aircraft remover" with far more safety warnings which I'm assuming is what I need. I'm trying to strip the finish off a 1980's Craftsman table saw stand, the stripper I have appears to be working just extremely slow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZAyXhfNKe8 Any questions?
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Oct 3, 2016 05:42
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Crotch Fruit posted:Is Klean Strip Premium Stripper in a can from HOme Depot good stuff? I let it sit for 20 min, I can scrape off a paint colored sludge but otherwise can hardly tell it did anything. . . I see Klean Strip also has an "aircraft remover" with far more safety warnings which I'm assuming is what I need. I'm trying to strip the finish off a 1980's Craftsman table saw stand, the stripper I have appears to be working just extremely slow. Off a table saw? It's now a powder coated finish is it?
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Oct 3, 2016 14:29
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Off a table saw? It's now a powder coated finish is it? It's just the stand, not the saw, I would be surprised if sears spent extra on a powder coated finish but I really don't know. Is there an easy test to determine if it's powder coated? The stuff comes off with a wire brush on my drill and a lot of pressure, I haven't tried a heat gun yet. The finish has a lot of surface rust and is very dull, if it was powder coated I would expect it to look better. I tried on another piece and actually got down to bare metal after 3 passes, but I'm just not sure if that is because the stripper sucks or what. I see Youtube videos of aircraft stripper making the paint bubble and jump off but that is simply not happening. If I do find a local source for aircraft stripper (I saw it on walmart.com but not in store), is there much difference between brush vs spray on? Will aircraft stripper mutilate my grass if I hose it off in my lawn?
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Oct 3, 2016 15:09
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Crotch Fruit posted:Will aircraft stripper mutilate my grass if I hose it off in my lawn?
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Oct 3, 2016 17:39
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Ciaphas posted:Thanks for all the soldering tips ( One final word of advice: find a junk circuit board somewhere and practice taking a couple chips off or tacking wires on using that.
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Oct 3, 2016 20:14
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Funny that, I've got a sound card that died a dog's age ago that I keep forgetting to throw in the garbage can. I'll experiment with it instead of going for my quadcopter's capacitor tonight (iron just arrived today).
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Oct 3, 2016 20:24
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Ciaphas posted:Funny that, I've got a sound card that died a dog's age ago that I keep forgetting to throw in the garbage can. I'll experiment with it instead of going for my quadcopter's capacitor tonight (iron just arrived today). When you're done, please don't throw it in the regular garbage. Electronics shouldn't go in the regular trash, and in many municipalities, it's illegal. Find out where to properly dispose of electronics for your city/county. Most places it's free for small amounts.
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Oct 3, 2016 22:04
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I've got a jetted tub. 6 jets in a house built 1980 which is when I guess the tub was installed. It's awesome but the jets don't seem to be very strong. Is there a way to fix these/see what's up? Some are stronger than others which is weird.
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Oct 4, 2016 01:50
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