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Anyone know what homeowners companies allow ivy? AAA is canceling my homeowners policy for having ivy on the front of my house. It's been there for decades and I'd rather change companies than have it removed.
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Sep 13, 2016 15:05
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revmoo posted:Anyone know what homeowners companies allow ivy? AAA is canceling my homeowners policy for having ivy on the front of my house. It's been there for decades and I'd rather change companies than have it removed. Honestly ive never seen someone refused for ivy, but for tree overhang or actual overgrowth. The major players should be ok with it, Nationwide, Allstatr, State Farm etc
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Sep 13, 2016 15:19
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Jastiger posted:Honestly ive never seen someone refused for ivy, but for tree overhang or actual overgrowth. The major players should be ok with it, Nationwide, Allstatr, State Farm etc I never would have thought it would be an issue. The house is 85 years old and it's built in a style that complements the Ivy perfectly. I wouldn't dream of removing it. I've reached out to State Farm and they're supposed to consult underwriting and get back to me. Their prices are $50 more a month (combined home/auto policy), which seems reasonable to me, especially because they're likely to have a much better claims process than AAA.
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Sep 13, 2016 15:23
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Just heard back from State Farm; they refuse to underwrite any house with ivy on it. Putting in calls to Nationwide and Allstate now.
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Sep 13, 2016 20:17
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Did they give you the reasoning behind it? I'm curious how your company found out.
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Sep 13, 2016 21:47
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They sent an inspector over after writing the policy. I'm not really too mad about it because with the way insurance/closing works it's more convenient for the vast majority of folks if they just write the policy first THEN do the inspection. But it definitely sucks in our case as I have to either find a new company or spend potentially thousands on having the ivy removed and the entire house repainted to cover up 40 years of ivy discoloring the brick. I'd much prefer it if I could just sign a contract promising not to file claims related to ivy damage, but that's not how it works. EDIT: Nationwide is out now. I never in a million years would have imagined the ivy on our house would make it uninsurable. I'll keep looking but it's starting to look like we may have to remove it 
revmoo fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 22:21
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Ivy looks nice on houses but it is horrible stuff.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:54
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Maybe they are rating it as increasing the risk of fire? Let us know if you find out why.
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Sep 13, 2016 23:18
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Edit: I'm dumb. New guess is that it damages the structure
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Sep 14, 2016 00:13
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revmoo posted:They sent an inspector over after writing the policy. This is really frustrating about insurance to me. "This is your price!" <week goes by> "Hey underwriting got back to us, this is REALLY your price!" Asking them to call underwriting ahead of time is apparently not something that is even possible and I am crazy to ask. This is someone with whom I already have 5 lines and 15 years of loyalty. I get that you don't want to call underwriting about every little question some rate hopper has about a given product, but you should also be able to tell me what something costs within 5%.
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Sep 14, 2016 04:21
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H110Hawk posted:This is really frustrating about insurance to me. "This is your price!" <week goes by> "Hey underwriting got back to us, this is REALLY your price!" Asking them to call underwriting ahead of time is apparently not something that is even possible and I am crazy to ask. This is someone with whom I already have 5 lines and 15 years of loyalty. I get that you don't want to call underwriting about every little question some rate hopper has about a given product, but you should also be able to tell me what something costs within 5%. Thats the way risk sharing works. THey will do their diligence and have the right to adjust later following their underwriting guidelines. Its actually tilted somewhat in your favor though at times. If you're obviously frauding it up, you still have that grace period where the insurance company is on the line. On the flip side, they get a chance to pull back the curtain and find out whats really going on and adjust. Also you gotta remember, the world is full of a lot of riff raff. For a lot of places and people lying and deception is the name of the game so insurance companies have to take this kind of defensive stance. For every person trying to legit find someone to cover their ivy house there are 10 that never had any intention of paying their second payment. In short, people suck so what on paper sounds like a good thing starts to suck too.
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Sep 14, 2016 04:26
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Jastiger posted:Thats the way risk sharing works. THey will do their diligence and have the right to adjust later following their underwriting guidelines. Its actually tilted somewhat in your favor though at times. If you're obviously frauding it up, you still have that grace period where the insurance company is on the line. On the flip side, they get a chance to pull back the curtain and find out whats really going on and adjust. Yup, totally get it. We've found a better agent who isn't both-feet-out-the-door to retirement and it's greatly improved. In fact, she's written me 4 lines already, 3 of which were entirely new (+1 car, umbrella, earthquake, and fire.) No material surprises anywhere. Speaking of underwriting, is doing a re-wire and re-pipe something they want to know about? Permits were pulled, inspectors signed off, that sort of thing. In theory the house is now less likely to burn down from water flooding from its original 1946 wires and galvanized pipes. I guess that moves some of the rebuild cost from (...logs into state farm...) OL to A? (Ordinance upgrades to the straight replacement cost.)
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Sep 14, 2016 05:06
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Id say so. Most insurers won't insure a place with galvanized pipes or old electrical. Get it all done and let the insurancr company know that its all modernized and they should hopefully give you a better rate.
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Sep 14, 2016 05:34
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H110Hawk posted:This is really frustrating about insurance to me. "This is your price!" <week goes by> "Hey underwriting got back to us, this is REALLY your price!" Asking them to call underwriting ahead of time is apparently not something that is even possible and I am crazy to ask. This is someone with whom I already have 5 lines and 15 years of loyalty. I get that you don't want to call underwriting about every little question some rate hopper has about a given product, but you should also be able to tell me what something costs within 5%. Yeah I've called a few companies now and they answer the phone and I'm like hi I have a simple question, does your company cover houses with decorative ivy yes or no and then they waste 45 minutes of my time trying to take a full application only to have to call me back and hour later and say no. It's ridiculous.
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Sep 14, 2016 13:42
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revmoo posted:Yeah I've called a few companies now and they answer the phone and I'm like hi I have a simple question, does your company cover houses with decorative ivy yes or no and then they waste 45 minutes of my time trying to take a full application only to have to call me back and hour later and say no. It's ridiculous. This is one of my biggest pet peeves and why I'm pretty much done being a remote agent. They incentivize how many quotes that are handed out instead of how many earnest policies there are out there. The agent is told to do whatever they can to get you a quote and THEN do the due diligence after the fact. This way their numbers supposedly look good. The problem is that it wastes everyones time and results in a poor experience for the customer as well as wastes the time of their underwriting department. If these mass appeal companies would just be more upfront with their underwriting I think they'd save a lot of people a lot of headache.
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Sep 14, 2016 13:51
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Jastiger posted:Id say so. Most insurers won't insure a place with galvanized pipes or old electrical. Get it all done and let the insurancr company know that its all modernized and they should hopefully give you a better rate. Cool, thanks. The pipes are in and the wiring is signed for but doesn't start for a few weeks. This is sort of par for the course for our area, she they didn't flinch at it when I told them the address. It's not knob and tube, but like rubber and cloth coated copper.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:38
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H110Hawk posted:It's not knob and tube, but like rubber and cloth coated copper. Oh yeah we have that stuff, it's awful. Every time you replace a ceiling fan or install a light switch it's a game of "will the house burn down this time?" Stuff's fine as long as it stays undisturbed. Fortunately it's run inside full metal conduit so for the most part the worst that would happen is it would trip a breaker.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:41
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revmoo posted:Oh yeah we have that stuff, it's awful. Every time you replace a ceiling fan or install a light switch it's a game of "will the house burn down this time?" Stuff's fine as long as it stays undisturbed. Fortunately it's run inside full metal conduit so for the most part the worst that would happen is it would trip a breaker.  We have a Zinsco panel. Apparently those don't trip anymore.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:46
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I just saw this story, which included this image/caption: Ask me about insurance: You made need life insurance.
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Sep 15, 2016 18:10
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Hey Overwatch goon buddy! We have two cars (2015 Ford Mustang ecoboost and 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer EVO MR) and a motorcycle (Yamaha....something, new bike we got last year), and we're looking for new insurance company. The cars have $500 deductible on Collision and Comprehensive, a few thousand for Medical, but the minimums for everything else. The bike is about the same level. There's two drivers on the policy, and both have crystal-clean records. Right now we're paying $416/month through Progressive for both cars, $135/month for the bike, and $16/month for $1,000 of renter's insurance. (REALLY need more, like $100,000) Do those rates seem high to you? I've been trying to get various quotes online, and they all seem really...really high. Do you have an email? Maybe I can throw a goon some business.
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Sep 16, 2016 00:19
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Valicious posted:Hey Overwatch goon buddy! State?
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Sep 16, 2016 00:41
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Valicious posted:Hey Overwatch goon buddy! Yeah state matters here. FOr bare minimums with crystal clear records that does seem a smidge high...depending on where you live.
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Sep 16, 2016 04:07
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Jastiger posted:Yeah state matters here. FOr bare minimums with crystal clear records that does seem a smidge high...depending on where you live. New Mexico I know a lot more now than I did when I entered into the policy. Geico is offering $235/month to insure both cars with two drivers ($500 deductible on coll. and comp., $10k medical, $100/$50k, roadside), and I haven't added in motorcycle or renter's yet. Is there a reason I shouldn't just go with them? I'm also looking at State Farm as I have a friend who works there, but I'm not sure they can beat Geico's price. Draver A (28) and Driver B (37) both drive the 2015 Mustang ecoboost, but only Driver B drives the 2013 Lancer EVO MR. Would it be better to put the main policy under Driver B, and is it possible/cheaper to add Driver A to only one car? Valicious fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 16, 2016 11:41
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Most companies are just going to lump you all in together and splitting off can make it more expensive. That doesnt sound like a terrible deal to be fair. If i were you, id call Nationwide and Liberty Mutual for a comparison against Geico. State Farm may be cheaper, but unless its drastically cheaper id go with someone else. Their policies are as good as Geicos in that they are pretty bare bones. Not bad, but bare bones.
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Sep 16, 2016 14:47
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A company wants me to sell AIL supplemental insurance for union members. Without knowing too much of the specifics, I wonder if this is worth pursuing -- i.e., are these generally bad jobs? One thing that appealed was that the company has lists of clients I'd be visiting rather than making cold calls. Thanks for any insight you can provide.
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Sep 27, 2016 12:20
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Its all about how much effort you're willing to put into dealing with people. People that often have no ides what you're selling and see no value in it, for the most part. I dont want to say it would be BAD, but its a lot more stressful than the milquetoast insurance label would imply. Cold calling sucks for sure, so avoid that. If they have an extensive list and are willing to continue with that supply of names id say it could be reasonable. Id also diversify and sell different things too.
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Sep 27, 2016 14:35
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Jastiger posted:Its all about how much effort you're willing to put into dealing with people. People that often have no ides what you're selling and see no value in it, for the most part. I dont want to say it would be BAD, but its a lot more stressful than the milquetoast insurance label would imply. OK, thanks. I will think what I really want out of this, and ask some questions of the managers.
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Sep 29, 2016 10:14
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Just a quick question - is about $90/month a very good rate for car (a 2012 econobox) and renters insurance?
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Oct 3, 2016 01:09
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Three-Phase posted:Just a quick question - is about $90/month a very good rate for car (a 2012 econobox) and renters insurance? State?
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Oct 3, 2016 01:43
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Jastiger posted:State? Ohio
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Oct 3, 2016 02:28
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Not terrible. Ive seen better but ive seen a loooooot worse. If you have good coverage id say thats acceptable, though if your credit is great you may do better.
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Oct 3, 2016 02:40
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Help. I'm losing my Medicaid health insurance because I make a smidge more than the cutoff (Got a new job a month ago while in school and projected income is now $17k a year assuming the hours stay stable). My state welfare office sent me a letter basically saying "Sorry, you make too much money now. Go get a Health Marketplace insurance". Apparently they don't give a poo poo I only made $9k this year (so far). Since I have this new job, my "projected" income is a lot higher and I guess that boots me out... I looked on the Marketplace for my state, and the policies are all terrible. The cheapest I can find is a Bronze plan with a $7k deductible, and only 60% co-insurance or whatever (ins. company only pays 60% of all claims). The policy without a tax credit is $230/month. Now, if I use a tax credit, I can enroll into some plans for $0/month. I could even get a Platinum plan for $210/month. So, should I use the tax credit? Or should I not? I usually get about $1k-2k back on taxes every year and apparently I could end up owing taxes if I use the tax credit. It seems almost better to just get the poo poo Bronze plan, pay for it out of pocket, report it as a deduction on my taxes for next year, and end up getting money back. I'm afraid of some insurance company reporting something like: "Well, the patient payed $0 for premiums but the actual cost of the plan is $5000/year so he owes $5000 in taxes). There's some things I like about Obamacare, but now it just seems like a racket to siphon off everyone's tax return.
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Oct 3, 2016 07:44
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Im not a health expert, i focus on p and c. But...my understanding is that you should use the tax credit. Thr program was designed so that if you make too much for medicaid, then you can get near free health insurance with the credit. Do it. I think if you try to game it youll end up spending more. Especially since, i believe, you cant claim 100% of your premiums on taxes at a 1:1 rate. You can certain expenses but im mot sure all premiums.
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Oct 3, 2016 08:08
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Avalanche posted:Help. Take a look at the Silver-level plans too. There's supposed to be special Silver-level plans for people who are beyond Medicaid but still close enough to the poverty level with much more generous than normal-Silver-level deductibles and co-pays. Repaying the Premium Tax Credit happens when you end up making more income than what you report when selecting your plan. If you're reasonably close in your estimation, then it'll probably only be a few dollars difference either way. I suppose you can err on the side of overestimating your annual income a little so you get some of the credit to help you out now with the monthly premium and the rest with your tax return if your actual annual income comes in lower than the estimate. If you get a massive raise or get a chunk of income unexpectedly during the year, just remember to set aside money to repay the credit instead of spending it all. I think you can also update your account on the exchange to get it to reduce or stop applying the credit, so you're not digging a bigger hole with the IRS. If working your new job only part of the year leaves you with an annual income less than the federal poverty level and ineligible for the credit, you don't have to pay it back.
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Oct 3, 2016 15:37
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So my insurance agent ended up having a chat with the underwriter at AAA that was canceling our coverage for the ivy on our house. She said just send in pics with it being trimmed up and they should be ok with that. She also warned me they were sending a termination letter. The letter arrived and it had a whole host of items on it that were wrong, like it listed one of the reasons for termination as having a gas stove in my garage. I have never had a gas stove in there and I have no idea where they got that idea. Anyway, I sent over pics and my agent says they'll definitely rescind the termination. My questions is this; what do I need to get from them in writing to confirm that we'll continue to be covered after the termination date? I'm worried we'll have some catastrophe strike and it will turn out that a random email from my agent is not defense/proof against them terminating our coverage. I just want some written reassurance that they're actually going to continue to cover our property but I'm not sure what to expect/demand.
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Oct 4, 2016 19:07
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revmoo posted:So my insurance agent ended up having a chat with the underwriter at AAA that was canceling our coverage for the ivy on our house. She said just send in pics with it being trimmed up and they should be ok with that. She also warned me they were sending a termination letter. The letter arrived and it had a whole host of items on it that were wrong, like it listed one of the reasons for termination as having a gas stove in my garage. I have never had a gas stove in there and I have no idea where they got that idea. Ask them to reissue a binder or evidence of insurance.
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Oct 4, 2016 19:09
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That sounds like exactly the kind of thing I need. Thanks!
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Oct 4, 2016 19:11
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Hi, I'm buying a home. My buyer's agent company is affiliated with a mortgage company which is affiliated with a title company which is affiliated with an insurance agent. It's all horseshit and I'm loving sick of it, but they just quoted me homeowner's insurance through Travelers that is 70% of what Erie quoted me, and auto insurance for 70% of what I pay Erie. They took my VIN, license #, and have my SSN, so it's a (I guess) legit quote. Does that sound probable, or will I have to read their paperwork thoroughly to find out that it doesn't cover as much? I'm in PA if that helps. Erie recently changed their payment policy so that I can't pay in full yearly with a credit card, so I'm honestly not that opposed to leaving them, but I'm sick of paperwork at this point. edit: I did give them the auto coverage numbers from Erie, so it should be an even comparison, theoretically.
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Oct 4, 2016 22:15
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Erwin posted:Hi, I'm buying a home. My buyer's agent company is affiliated with a mortgage company which is affiliated with a title company which is affiliated with an insurance agent. It's all horseshit and I'm loving sick of it, but they just quoted me homeowner's insurance through Travelers that is 70% of what Erie quoted me, and auto insurance for 70% of what I pay Erie. They took my VIN, license #, and have my SSN, so it's a (I guess) legit quote. Does that sound probable, or will I have to read their paperwork thoroughly to find out that it doesn't cover as much? I'm in PA if that helps. Did they send you an actual quote? You should be able to look at it and see what the coverage differences are, if any. Travelers is legit good
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Oct 4, 2016 22:44
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I have a general renters insurance question. Does renters insurance generallycover accidents that could result in damages to the property caused by the tennant? Examples would be: - Tenant forgets to shut off iron and causes a small fire resulting in $10k of damage to the apartment - Tenant is clumsy when moving a bookcase and shatters a patio window that needs to be replaced for $500 - Tenant's waterbed (assuming the lease is OK with them) breaks and ruins carpet and wall trim, requires $2500 to repair - Tenant's 20-gallon aquarium air pump backflows and dumps 15 gallons onto the carpet, remediation costs $500 As part of my rental agreement my landlord is listed as a party who gets contacted if something happens like I cancel my renters insurance. Having renters insurance is part of the lease agreement. I know that insect infestations (bedbugs) are NOT covered. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 14:26
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