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Soarer
Jan 14, 2012

I JUST CAN'T STOP TALKING ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE'S PONY AVATARS

~SMcD

muike posted:

Sounds like a good deal.

In other new, I severely underestimated how big a 1x15 combo was going to be in practice and i guess it's time to rearrange my guitar rig

Did you end up with the BA115? I currently have a browser window open flipping back and forth between the 110/115/120. The Markbass 104HF I played on when purchasing my guitar was crazy but there's no way I can justify needing it, as awesome as it was. Even their 1x8 combo amp clocks in at $500 :v:

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muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Ya that's what I grabbed. I'm quite impressed with the features and quality so far, but I'll need more time with it to form a nuanced opinion.
The tweeter is a bit noisy, but not unbearably so, and can be turned off anyway.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

Jeff Goldblum posted:


Spotted this on the used market. G&L USA SB-2, La Bella Flats, one small "spider ding," $650
I'm half inclined to sell one or basses just to make room for this thing, what do you think?

Do it. Do it right now*

*unless there's an L2000 nearby

Jeff Goldblum
Dec 3, 2009

Juaguocio posted:

I'd snag a USA G&L in a second for that price.

ewe2 posted:

Do it. Do it right now*

*unless there's an L2000 nearby

I did it. Turns out the guy selling it knew me and my band, and was a friend of a friend. We hashed it out and I walked away with it for $600 and if it ends up not finding a proper place in my home I can bring it back. I don't know why I would. This thing is amazing. It's a bit of a shame that it has no tone control, so it will take either some EQ work on the amp or (more likely) I will bring back my Sansamp and use it as a sort of filter. Immediately tested it out at practice tonight and it was very plucky, my attack is still too drat strong.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

Jeff Goldblum posted:

I did it. Turns out the guy selling it knew me and my band, and was a friend of a friend. We hashed it out and I walked away with it for $600 and if it ends up not finding a proper place in my home I can bring it back. I don't know why I would. This thing is amazing. It's a bit of a shame that it has no tone control, so it will take either some EQ work on the amp or (more likely) I will bring back my Sansamp and use it as a sort of filter. Immediately tested it out at practice tonight and it was very plucky, my attack is still too drat strong.

Good stuff! The trick to SB-2's is using the volume pots as tone controls themselves. It won't hurt to adjust the pups either, I found better tone from adjusting the bridge pup. I've learnt a lot about finger tone too, so I feel you get the best of both worlds: 70's p Bass grind with a pick, and plunky county bass up the neck with fingers and everything in between.

for fucks sake
Jan 23, 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F22DCvJ24Eg

As well as just being an awesome bassline, I really like the tone. Can anyone venture a guess as to how he's getting it?

Here's a screengrab of the pedal board:

Fierce Brosnan
Feb 16, 2010

I have seen into the future
Everyone is slightly older
Looks like an EHX Bass Big Muff bottom-left... top-left might be a T-Rex Squeezer.
And a TC PolyTune (bottom-right) :v:

e:

There's a red one and blue one, if that helps.

e2:
Top-right might be an MXR Bass Octave Deluxe?

Fierce Brosnan fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Sep 30, 2016

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

ewe2 posted:

Good stuff! The trick to SB-2's is using the volume pots as tone controls themselves. It won't hurt to adjust the pups either, I found better tone from adjusting the bridge pup. I've learnt a lot about finger tone too, so I feel you get the best of both worlds: 70's p Bass grind with a pick, and plunky county bass up the neck with fingers and everything in between.

Yeah G&L's pickups are really powerful, so you can probably get a lot of tonal variation just by adjusting the height.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

Indeed, you can modify your strings sound quite well as they age with pup adjustment.

CmdrSmirnoff
Oct 27, 2005
happy happy happy happy happy happy happy happy happy
I love my semi-custom Carvin guitar. I want to have a bass built and was going to go with them (or Kiesel anyway) again, but might as well ask. Are there any other mass "custom" builders out there? Not the obvious custom solo builders, but the equivalents of a made to measure suit store.

Looking for a 6 string fretless, for reference.

TopherCStone
Feb 27, 2013

I am very important and deserve your attention


Anybody ever try one of these Traveler basses? They look pretty cool and I found a good deal on a used one so I impulse bought it this morning. Haven't played bass in a while, and it'll be nice to have something with a built in headphone amp.

The real question is what kind of flatwounds should I put on it? 32" scale, but you use full-length strings. I wonder if full-length Tomastiks would be too floppy in that case.

The Science Goy
Mar 27, 2007

Where did you learn to drive?

CmdrSmirnoff posted:

I love my semi-custom Carvin guitar. I want to have a bass built and was going to go with them (or Kiesel anyway) again, but might as well ask. Are there any other mass "custom" builders out there? Not the obvious custom solo builders, but the equivalents of a made to measure suit store.

Looking for a 6 string fretless, for reference.

Just saying, Tom Clement still has a piece of black and white ebony like my fingerboard, which is large enough for a six string board...



Carvin does some nice stuff, and I was going to build through them at one point, but Tom does great work and his prices are comparable (no crazy $4k entry point like Fodera). I paid $2k shipped, with some exotic materials for the top and fingerboard obviously.

DEUCE SLUICE
Feb 6, 2004

I dreamt I was an old dog, stuck in a honeypot. It was horrifying.
talkbass is fine you jerks

DEUCE SLUICE
Feb 6, 2004

I dreamt I was an old dog, stuck in a honeypot. It was horrifying.
Also, if you have a Wonderlove make sure you also get a You're Doom to put in its loop because holy god it rules.

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

I got a Squier Pbass thrown into a Craigslist buy for free. Structurally sound, but the poly paint color on this thing is awful and boring. I plan to give it a paintcan makeover. I have an idea in my head but looking to do it on the cheap. Just don't want it to look runny and poo poo. Thinking metallic (flaked) orange, if I can find it in a rattlecan.

I watched a vid of a guy using a heatgun and scraper and that looked like more effort than I'm willing to throw at it. Anyone have any experience just sanding that down through the clearcoat, and painting over? Would it be something like (1) sand through clear coat (2) primer on top of existing paint (3) new paint (4) clear.

Part of my hangup is pickguards for the cheapo affinity aren't standard P-bass plates. Cheap 1-ply. I think black and white are my only options short of having a custom one made. I really don't want to spend $50 on a pickguard for a $100 guitar. I don't have tools to make one myself.

This isn't something I intend to sell. Already have several basses and this will just be a project that rarely gets played.

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Don't sand that poo poo by hand at least use an orbital sander. but other than that yeah you've got it. You're kinda boned on the pickguard part though.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Just give it a scuff sand to break any gloss. Around 400 grit should be plenty.

If you want big flake it's hard to get out of a can. Krylon has a line called glitter blast, and I think Rustolium has something similar.
There is this stuff but it's pricey. I have no first hand experience using it.
http://rothmetalflake.com/rattle-bombs/29-rattle-bomb-all-in-one.html#/rattle_bomb_all_in_one-twisted_tangerine

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

Thumposaurus posted:

Just give it a scuff sand to break any gloss. Around 400 grit should be plenty.

If you want big flake it's hard to get out of a can. Krylon has a line called glitter blast, and I think Rustolium has something similar.
There is this stuff but it's pricey. I have no first hand experience using it.
http://rothmetalflake.com/rattle-bombs/29-rattle-bomb-all-in-one.html#/rattle_bomb_all_in_one-twisted_tangerine

This is perfect, thanks.

I do have an orbital, good suggestion.

DEUCE SLUICE
Feb 6, 2004

I dreamt I was an old dog, stuck in a honeypot. It was horrifying.
Sanding is going to be a TON of effort if you're doing it by hand, and with a power sander you potentially are going to dig into wood if you're trying to get all the paint off.

Heat it or use stripper and scrape it.

edit: Or, yeah, just scuff and paint over it.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
Am I???
Fun Shoe
Scuffing it first should work OK, but you should use primer if you go that route. Primer loves scratched up shiny surfaces, and paint loves primer.

If you want to go down to bare wood, which will be the best route, you should use stripper. Sanding by hand will take too much effort, and using any power sander will eat up tons of sandpaper and will either remove wood (which is bad) or could even burn the wood. Funner still, it could make the wood wavy and uneven.

It is stripper that you need. Strip it as far as you can, then sand it.

Just remember, this isn't a fence you're painting. Watch some videos about finishing guitars before you tackle this if it's your first time.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

Speaking of G&L, they just released the Kiloton, apparently a passive Stingray type in a SB body. Good thing it hasn't made it to the Tribute range yet, I'm trying to save for a Fallout guitar :v:

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

DEUCE SLUICE posted:

Heat it or use stripper and scrape it.

edit: Or, yeah, just scuff and paint over it.

tarlibone posted:


It is stripper that you need. Strip it as far as you can, then sand it.

Just remember, this isn't a fence you're painting. Watch some videos about finishing guitars before you tackle this if it's your first time.

Message received! I read somewhere not to try a paint stripper on poly finishes. I keep seeing examples of scuffing for poly paints. I'll borrow a heat gun from work and see how easy that goes first. Saw a vid on stewmac where it came off in huge chunks, another on youtube where it was slivers at a time.

I do intend to primer either way. I watched several videos, and saw great examples of what I don't want (wet, runny-looking). Too much paint too soon, looks like? I'll buy extra paint and practice on wood blocks for a while, the painting part, anyway.

Driving home I started wondering where I am going to do this. I live in an incredibly dusty environment. My garage is really just storage for dirt and starting to get cold out there.

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



pumped up for school posted:

I do intend to primer either way. I watched several videos, and saw great examples of what I don't want (wet, runny-looking). Too much paint too soon, looks like? I'll buy extra paint and practice on wood blocks for a while, the painting part, anyway.

Do thin thin coats and make sure each coat is 100% dry and cured before you sand it smooth or apply the next one.

Like, the tin/can/whatever will say "dries in two hours!" but I guarantee you it means something more like "dries in two hours under a giant UV light in a 0% humidity cleanroom temperature controlled to exactly 108 degrees". Wait a bit longer. Like a day or two.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

tarlibone posted:

Scuffing it first should work OK, but you should use primer if you go that route. Primer loves scratched up shiny surfaces, and paint loves primer.

If you want to go down to bare wood, which will be the best route, you should use stripper. Sanding by hand will take too much effort, and using any power sander will eat up tons of sandpaper and will either remove wood (which is bad) or could even burn the wood. Funner still, it could make the wood wavy and uneven.

It is stripper that you need. Strip it as far as you can, then sand it.

Just remember, this isn't a fence you're painting. Watch some videos about finishing guitars before you tackle this if it's your first time.

Strippers have little to no effect on modern polyester guitar finishes.
You might get through the color coats but the sealer they all use is some bullet proof poo poo.
Heat gun is a good route to go but can be dangerous with shards of hot paint flying off like popcorn.
If your not trying to stain the wood there's little reason to take it down to bare wood.
Spray some water on the floor to control dust. Once you've spayed it and it's dried a bit you can bring it inside and hang it in a closet or out of the way area to protect from more dust outside.

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



Finished my fretless j-bass kit.







It goes Mwuh Mwuuuh Mhuuuum and I'm very happy with it even though there's stuff I'd do differently next time.

Next time I build one I'm gonna try to do inlays on the headstock.

TopherCStone
Feb 27, 2013

I am very important and deserve your attention

AlphaDog posted:

Finished my fretless j-bass kit.







It goes Mwuh Mwuuuh Mhuuuum and I'm very happy with it even though there's stuff I'd do differently next time.

Next time I build one I'm gonna try to do inlays on the headstock.

Nice! Love the color, and I'm a sucker for block inlays

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I'm a block inlays lover too :golfclap:


Went and seen The RX Bandits on their "... And the Battle Begun" tour of their 10yr old album. I absolutely love some of the bass work on that album.

Joe Troy wasn't at the show due to medical issues, but grabbed a shot of his gear for personal reference.

Terror Bass?


Pretty straightforward board

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



TopherCStone posted:

Nice! Love the color, and I'm a sucker for block inlays



Thanks!

I lucked out with this kit. The photos of the kit I ordered had white dot inlays and a white pick guard. Plan was to remove the dot inlays when I defretted the neck, fill with black or brown, and order a black pick guard. When I opened the box and it had block inlays, the plan immediately changed to "keep those", and obviously the black pick guard was a nice bonus.

It also came with ashtray bridge and pickup covers which weren't in the description. No way I'm putting the pickup cover on, but I might do the bridge cover after the neck settles.

The colour is somewhat accidental. It was supposed to be lighter, but I'd mixed some darker stain to bring the maple neck to the same colour as the ash body, and then mixed up which pot was which and the darker stain ended up on the body. I liked it the way the colour went close to the fretboard, so I darkened it a little further and tried to match the neck to the body. In the photos, the back of the body looks darker than the neck, but it's way less pronounced in person.

Next project I think will be a Les Paul 6 string in trans black.

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
So I just restrung my bass for the first time, and as someone without experience with open post tuners, I'm not sure if I did it correctly or not.

Kilometers Davis
Jul 9, 2007

They begin again

Perfect

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
:yeah:

Are you supposed to stretch bass strings? I'm erring on the side of caution and didn't try with them.

By the way I'm loving bass Cobalts as much as I love them on guitar.

for fucks sake
Jan 23, 2016

Yep, that's exactly how I try to get mine to look.

As far as stretching, I find the larger the gauge, the quicker they settle. So a guitar might take a couple of days and a bunch of stretching but a bass is usually good after a couple of hours.

Elector_Nerdlingen
Sep 27, 2004



muike posted:

I'm not sure if I did it correctly or not.



You did great.

As for stretching, yeah a couple of hours playing usually settles them but I like to put a finger over the nut to hold the string down, put my hand in the palm mute position, and give each string a couple of gentle pulls up to get the initial stretchiness out and make sure the winds are as tight as possible.

E: That might be superstition though. It's just what I've always done.

Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 11, 2016

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
yay thanks guys

The Science Goy
Mar 27, 2007

Where did you learn to drive?
Hidy-ho everyone! Welcome to the Mr. Obvious show. I'm your host, Mr. Obvious, with a pro tip for all of you pro bass players. When you're on a show where you need to turn off the signal to your amp a lot (such as an intimate setting for a musical, where the amp is not necessary for parts played with a bow), don't try to flip the power switch mid-song, you might knock a light off the stage and nearly throw your upright into Sister Hubert as she walks in front of the band!

Instead, take any true-bypass pedal such as a Big Muff (a prudent choice for a musical about nuns), turn its volume all the way down, hook it up as normal in the signal chain but don't run any power to the pedal. It will work as normal in bypass mode, but will function as a kill switch when the pedal is engaged.

Gotta love tech week. Now I just need to convince the drummer to play more quietly...

BonHair
Apr 28, 2007

Or use your tuner pedal, that's half the reason you have it. (Sorry about you being a clutz)

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Yeah that's like 90% of the use your tuner pedal gets when playing live is to mute your sound so you can tune up without annoying the audience or accidentally making a fart noise while your singer is droning on about the next song or telling people to buy merch.

Also, I posted this in the guitar thread but got a response praising the bass tone so I figured "why not" and will post it here as well

https://soundcloud.com/lfranco321/instrumental-demo

It's a dumb little song I made to go behind a passive aggressive spoken word track when answering emails at work, so I didn't quite know what I was doing but had fun making it anyways. I didn't really change up my bass amp settings from what I normally play so I just dialed down the tone knob and finger picked as soft as I could. Not bad of a tone for a little squier jazz v.

The Science Goy
Mar 27, 2007

Where did you learn to drive?

BonHair posted:

Or use your tuner pedal, that's half the reason you have it. (Sorry about you being a clutz)

:ssh: I don't have a true-bypass tuner pedal, I have a Korg tuner/metronome with mic and 1/4" input designed to be used on a music stand , like all the cool band and orchestra kids :ssh:



I usually don't *need* one, and I would rather drop that money into a new set of upright strings or a compressor since this tuner already has good resolution

The Science Goy fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Oct 12, 2016

UncleBlazer
Jan 27, 2011

The Science Goy posted:

:ssh: I don't have a true-bypass tuner pedal

True bypass doesn't factor into this at all. A TU-2 or 3 will kill signal when on.

True bypass has been marketing hype for ages now, in fact they're so ubiquitous if you have a long chain I'd strongly advise throwing a buffered bypass like a boss in the chain.

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silvergoose
Mar 18, 2006

IT IS SAID THE TEARS OF THE BWEENIX CAN HEAL ALL WOUNDS




Anyone go with fretless acoustics (but not uprights)? How do they play, do they actually make enough sound to be heard in anything more than a duo or such?

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