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kastein posted:The CEL will turn off, usually after ~3 driving cycles (a driving cycle is get in, start engine, drive somewhere, turn engine off, in some cases let engine cool off) and/or after the ECU has completed all its emissions monitor tests, which depends on the make, model, and year of the vehicle in question and how exactly the OEM implemented their OBD system. Is it frowned upon to simply clear the CEL after performing the repair, and seeing if it comes back? Rather than leaving the CEL on and waiting for it to pop off?
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Oct 5, 2016 22:21
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Not really, you're doing the same thing basically, the cel doesn't go off until the new part has been proven to work right.. since there was a cel on it stays on. If you reset the codes the monitors aren't ready until after a few drive cycles and if you took it for an emissions inspection after resetting the codes in the parking lot they'd say come back after a few days drive because the system says that they haven't done all their tests yet. Edit: generally the codes are reset when working on a car because you should be unplugging the battety when doing work on anything with wires, and more conservatively anything in the engine bay.
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Oct 5, 2016 23:10
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I break the poo poo out of that rule because I'm an electrical engineer and know what I'm doing dangit, but you probably shouldn't if you don't know exactly what you're doing. (and yes I've showered sparks everywhere by accidentally touching a terminal on the starter while working on a car live when I shouldn't, do as I say not as I do  )
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Oct 5, 2016 23:17
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I started doing it, honestly, after reading in The Martian where he bricked the rover by leaning his live drill against the casing. It wasn't years of soldering, even more years of car work and sparks. It was a fiction novel I read while in Cuba. The sense of dread the character, and therefore I, felt was palpable. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Oct 5, 2016 |
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Oct 5, 2016 23:31
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motorcycle question but really its about stripped screws: kind of at an impasse w/ 2 stripped screws in an engine cover I'm trying to remove. -impact driver got 3 out but deformed 2. -easy outs don't come in a big enough size. #3s just spin. I didn't realize there were #4s but i might be past that. -i tried screw extractors but maybe the directions are wrong. each screw extractor specifies a drill but to use but they dont seem to bite. kind of leaves me with 4 options: -try to find a #4 easy out and give it a go. try and go one size up in screw extractors and give it another go. -cut a notch in the screws with a dremal and use a flathead. i dont own a dremel so i'd have to buy one. -cold chisel a notch in the side and turn with a hammer/screwdriver. i don't own a cold chisel but its cheaper than a dremel.. -jb weld/actually weld a nut on the screw. i'm trying the jb weld method on one of the screws but i dont have high hopes. i dont have the redneck magic to be good at jb welding anything. i actually own a welder so i could try welding a nut to the screw but, in my research, ive never read about anyone doing that. i'm also not any good at welding and would probably gently caress up my bike further.
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Oct 6, 2016 01:18
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Buy a cheap knock off dremel
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Oct 6, 2016 01:30
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Don't bother with the harbor freight rotary tool. It's not worth the $5 or whatever.
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Oct 6, 2016 01:34
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AI, I have a promblem. I cannot stop buying police cars. Before this one, they have been invariably old and variably lovely. A 1991 Postal Inspector Crown Vic that I drove for ten years, a 2003 local PD P71 that I drove for two before its fuel system burst in front of a current cop who pulled me over for "unsecured load." I've done it again. I bought a new one: A 2015 Explorer Interceptor, very gently used with only 34k miles on it. I need a center console for the front seats, though. What can I do? What other vehicle's console will work here?
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Oct 6, 2016 02:52
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19?? car that goes vroom vroom *tink* (sound of nut falling off). Possibly a Ford. US Goons or anyone else that knows, I need some info. My swiss army knife carburettor lost it's butterfly shaft nut. It's a Holley 5200 2bbl or something close to it, from some smaller U.S. '70's car I guess. What size / thread is the butterfly shaft nut? The normal metric M6 seems about the right size but the wrong thread.
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Oct 6, 2016 05:27
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2015 interceptors are on the market already?
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Oct 6, 2016 05:32
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what even ARE you posted:2015 interceptors are on the market already? If it was an early 2015 (ie, sold in late 2014) I could definitely see one that racked up a high number of miles - like a highway patrol car - already having enough miles on the OD to justify replacement.
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Oct 6, 2016 06:12
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He said 34k miles though
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Oct 6, 2016 06:18
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion with the 2.0 liter engine. About ten months ago the transmission developed a leak, it cost over $1,000 to fix. Two months ago I got the 100k miles servicing done. The car'd been a bit sluggish and the engine was making more noise than usual but the dealer said it was just a misfiring spark plug. One month ago it was still sluggish, the engine was still running too loud, the rear speakers started to crackle, and it started making an odd noise click noise so I took it to a different mechanic. He said the car drove fine and any odd mechanical noise was from one of the air conditioning fans, it might get worse but it was nothing to worry about. A week ago the car started to make a click sound whenever I released the break and pressed the accelerator. But it sounded like it was coming from the AC vent and I'd been running the AC all week so I figured everything was fine. The speaker problem eventually resolved itself. On Saturday the engine stalled out once in the middle of a parking lot. The transmission and engine got clean bills of health so I figured I didn't start the car or something. So I restarted the car, drove it to the exit, and found that I couldn't get it to drive faster than 10 miles an hour. I drove out of the lot and limped the car to a safe place. The car didn't get checked out until Monday: AAA said that there was one mechanic close by who was open during the weekends. He was probably closed now but he'd definitely be open on Sunday. He wasn't. He got an error code and sent the car off to a transmission specialist. The transmission specialist wasn't able to get to it until Wednesday. He cleared the error code, drove the car 16 miles, and couldn't replicate the problem. I've got the car back but the engine is still noisier than it used to be. And the car still makes an audible click sound whenever I release the break and press the accelerator. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be and what the fix could be? Edit: I forgot something that happened before I took the car in for 100k maintenance. It was a very hot day, I drove a lot that day and night, I stopped at a drivethru and the car engine started making loud noises. Sort of like a POP POP POP POP. I stopped the car, waited until it stopped (they hadn't finished with the order an no one was behind me), and then started the car again. That noise was distinctly different from the click noise. Edit 2: I forgot to take that first sentence out, I was using it as a prompt to remind me to include those details. RandomPauI fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Oct 6, 2016 |
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Oct 6, 2016 08:08
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RandomPauI posted:Tell us the make / model / year / engine type when asking questions about your car. Beyond that, the experts will ask for further details. Who, me? It's irrelevant. This is the third vehicle I've put the carburettor on. It originally came with a Weber adaptor kit for a VW Type IV engine. I can only discern that it is U.S. origin Holley and possibly from a smaller Ford. Seems to be 5200 like but that's about it. I know they all have a lot in common. Trouble is when it comes to imperial stuff I don't know my arse from my elbow.
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Oct 6, 2016 12:06
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The engine mounts are probably shot, specifically top and center causing engine to shift from braking and accelerating.
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Oct 6, 2016 13:00
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life is killing me posted:Yeah it's a k24z3. Being told by some folks on another forum that I'm a pussy and I should just go ahead and do it myself with no experience with this engine. Could I do it? Sure I could. Could I do it quickly, and not take up a whole weekend? Eh. I don't have the tools to do it really, I only keep a small set of 1/4in drive sockets with a small ratchet, some screwdrivers and a couple hammers and a drill. Also I don't have the time relative to my skill level. I found a pic I took of the job: 
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Oct 6, 2016 14:03
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Can anybody tell me anything about G35s with the manual trans? I haven't driven one and it seems like it would be a decent DD and still somewhat fun car. I know it's basically a 350z and feels kind of heavy but I'm looking more for driving impressions, steering feel, clutch/shifter feel, etc. I'd be interested in a 2003/4 since I want the brembos and don't mind the looks of it vs. the 06+.
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Oct 6, 2016 15:18
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:He said 34k miles though I have no idea why it was on this particular lot with only 34k on it. All I know is that it was a drat steal and I took it after checking it over with a friend on his lift. Pristine underneath, clean as a whistle internally, no accidents or anything. My only concern at all is putting in something to make it slightly more suitable for its non-police service life. If I have to I'll just go buy a police console with armrest and pop a CB and some wardriving gear in or fab something up from an equivalent vehicle. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience retrofitting something in a same-generation Explorer Interceptor.
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Oct 6, 2016 15:56
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2014 Nissan Versa Note. 37000km (23000 miles), automatic (CVT). I left for work this morning to discover a fresh wet spot underneath the car, about six inches in diameter. I went to check it and it seems clear/colorless (I didn't have white paper to test it on), not greasy, and doesn't have an odor. My first instinct was that it's A/C condensation. We spent the last month on the west coast and came from the prairies and are not really used to seeing the results of high humidity so it could be that. However, at this point the car was off and parked for nearly 12 hours and the spot appeared to be underneath the center of the engine compartment rather than near the passenger side where (as far as I know) the A/C drain usually is on cars. It's in a garage and it was not raining last night. Any ideas at all? We have a service appointment for an unrelated issue on Friday morning (busted wiper fluid hose/nozzle) so they can probably look at it then, but I'm a little concerned because we need to make a round-trip (about 2000km) drive through the mountains this weekend for  thanksgiving starting that afternoon and coming back with a loaded car. I really don't want anything loving up during that.This car has been nothing but trouble for us all month. It was so good up until then god drat it 
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Oct 6, 2016 17:15
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Larrymer posted:Can anybody tell me anything about G35s with the manual trans? I haven't driven one and it seems like it would be a decent DD and still somewhat fun car. I know it's basically a 350z and feels kind of heavy but I'm looking more for driving impressions, steering feel, clutch/shifter feel, etc. I'd be interested in a 2003/4 since I want the brembos and don't mind the looks of it vs. the 06+. Should have heavy clutch feel and have tendency to need a new master or slave early on. I have a 2007 350z with hr motor. I would recommend looking for HR 7+ to avoid transmission issues early models had. Mine has 45k miles if interested.
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Oct 6, 2016 17:35
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General_Failure posted:19?? car that goes vroom vroom *tink* (sound of nut falling off). Possibly a Ford. I don't think this answers your specific question, but it's got a pretty comprehensive parts list.
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Oct 6, 2016 17:48
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Given that it's off something carbureted and USDM, it's almost certainly an SAE thread. M6 is about 1/4". I'd guess 1/4-20 if it's coarse thread, 1/4-28 if it's fine thread. You really should measure the thread pitch and diameter if you have a chance though. It could also be #12, #14 (very uncommon these days but still available), or a number of other sizes.
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Oct 6, 2016 17:52
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Did it go Tink into the carb while you were working on it or on the ground somewhere while driving / sitting? or did it go into the intake? If its in the motor it'll be bad.
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Oct 6, 2016 17:53
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kastein posted:The CEL will turn off, usually after ~3 driving cycles (a driving cycle is get in, start engine, drive somewhere, turn engine off, in some cases let engine cool off) and/or after the ECU has completed all its emissions monitor tests, which depends on the make, model, and year of the vehicle in question and how exactly the OEM implemented their OBD system. rizuhbull fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Oct 6, 2016 |
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Oct 6, 2016 18:00
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rizuhbull posted:What if it doesn't turn off, by let's say next week? Also the old sensor is cool to throw in the trash? yeah there's nothing super highly toxic in them AFAIK. If it doesn't turn off by next week read the code again and see what's going on. Also For 11 bucks and an app you can read your own stuff.. I have this Bluetooth OBD II Reader and the Torque app and it works well. For android you need Bluetooth, for iPhone you need WiFi. The app will tell you if sensors are not ready or ready, and will show you the codes that are causing the CEL to go on.
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Oct 6, 2016 18:05
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tater_salad posted:yeah there's nothing super highly toxic in them AFAIK. But it does have silver(or gold) and platinum 
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Oct 6, 2016 18:16
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Christobevii3 posted:Should have heavy clutch feel and have tendency to need a new master or slave early on. I have a 2007 350z with hr motor. I would recommend looking for HR 7+ to avoid transmission issues early models had. Mine has 45k miles if interested. I'm looking at a 2004 with 49k miles. Sounds like it might have an earlier trans.
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Oct 6, 2016 18:27
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totalnewbie posted:But it does have silver(or gold) and platinum you can also get platinum from sweeping dust up on the highway... Online says you can sell 02 sensors for $3 a pound.. so.. Hop in your car,m drive 30 miles round trip in your car to drop it off and maybe you can break even to pay for the gas.. I mean you were driving it anyways so you to get your sensor to reset anyways right? Right? 
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Oct 6, 2016 18:37
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Mak0rz posted:My first instinct was that it's A/C condensation. It probably is. If it is water, it can really only be from there, and all other fluids should have some color and/or not "feel" like water. On some cars it seems AC condensation gathers up in a pan or some such and only comes out on the ground when you drive (car is accelerating or going uphill or something). Hot/humid weather can make the AC generate quite a lot of water, car can pee quite a bit.
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Oct 6, 2016 18:41
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Larrymer posted:I'm looking at a 2004 with 49k miles. Sounds like it might have an earlier trans. Ask if the transmission, master or slave cylinder were replaced, and the electric fans
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Oct 6, 2016 19:32
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ionn posted:It probably is. If it is water, it can really only be from there, and all other fluids should have some color and/or not "feel" like water. It certainly felt like water, yeah. It dried clean on my finger. Didn't leave any grimy or sticky film or anything. Edit: But why did it look fresh after sitting there inactive for 12 hours? Is it possible that when I started up the car and eased out of the parking spot (which is fairly level) whatever vessel that collects the water was disturbed enough to dump a whole bunch? Mak0rz fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Oct 6, 2016 |
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Oct 6, 2016 21:03
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RandomPauI posted:
I've already replied to your last post once, which apparently went unread. You do not have the 2.0, unless you have the Ion Red Line. You would know this, the engine would have a supercharger, you'd have a ricer body kit on it, alloys wheels, it was only sold in manual, and it was only sold as a coupe. It was also pretty drat quick. The manual transmission is also not capable of setting any codes except for a vehicle speed sensor code, as it has zero electronics in the transmission. You have a 1% chance of having the 2.0, and a 99% chance of having the 2.2 that every other 03-05 had. 06-07 offered a 2.4 as well as the 2.0 S/C and 2.2. I asked before if you have the coupe or sedan, and if it's manual or automatic. Coupe or sedan matters in this case, because the coupe automatic is a dumpster fire CVT transmission that needs to be burned in an offering to Satan himself (03-04 models only). If it's the sedan, it has a 5 speed Aisin automatic that's normally reliable, but turns to poo poo real fast if you put the wrong fluid in it. Also 03-04 only. 05+ got the regular GM 4 speed automatic (or the same 5 speed manual). If it's the coupe automatic, I would dump that car as quickly as possible, because that transmission is a ticking time bomb and I'm amazed it made it to 100k without being rebuilt at least once. What code was it giving? And a "misfiring spark plug" is something that should have been addressed immediately at the time and not ignored. As for the car going 10 mph, that could definitely be a transmission issue; it could also be a throttle body issue. Starting in 04, the Ion went to a drive by wire throttle body, so there's no accelerator cable - just a sensor on the pedal that tells the throttle body how far to open. Knowing the code it was giving would be really helpful though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Oct 6, 2016 |
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Oct 6, 2016 23:53
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I've already replied to your last post once, which apparently went unread. I'm sorry, I must have missed it. I'm also not a car person. I knew that there were two engines and that one engine was the rare one everyone wanted. I assumed the 2.0 was the engine people didn't want and the 2.2 was the engine people did want because bigger = better. It's a four door sedan automatic. I've only ever gotten the fluids changed at the dealership or jiffy lube. The code is to962.
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Oct 7, 2016 00:38
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This is a stupid question because I feel especially dumb asking it: I'm trying to diagnose my old Cherokee's no-start situation, and due to the fuel pump suddenly not making it's usual whine on startup I borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge from OReilly's (never used one before). The gauge reads zero. It also reads zero when I hook it up to my dad's running Suburban. I'm just screwing the gauge onto the rail schrader valve, right? The fact that the gauge hose leaks gas when I unscrew it tells me the gauge is broken, correct? I'm not missing a subtle nuance of a simple pressure gauge?
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Oct 7, 2016 01:32
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RandomPauI posted:I'm sorry, I must have missed it. I'm also not a car person. I knew that there were two engines and that one engine was the rare one everyone wanted. I assumed the 2.0 was the engine people didn't want and the 2.2 was the engine people did want because bigger = better. Sorry for being snarky.  One would usually think that bigger=better, but the smaller engine has a supercharger on it, puts out around 200 HP, and has a higher redline. The 2.2 puts out about 150 hp. The 2.0 was also available in the Cobalt SS, depending on year it had a turbo or supercharger.When it wouldn't go over 10 mph, was it just stuck in 1st and wouldn't upshift? Or did the "reduced power" light come on? (it's an orange light to the right of the tachometer, near the bottom) Or none of the above and it just wouldn't rev high enough to get past 10? I'm assuming that code is P0962, which is related to a solenoid inside the transmission. It would definitely keep the car from shifting properly, but I don't think it would be causing any noises. It's possible that the wiring harness from the transmission control module to the transmission has some corrosion somewhere and is causing intermittent contact. It could also cause it to get stuck in one particular gear. I can't really say anything about the noises without hearing them, but I'd suggest at least looking at the serpentine belt to see if it's beginning to come apart. I have the 2006 version of your car (except in a coupe w/manual transmission, but it's the same engine) - when the belt came apart, it sounded like this and had me making GBS threads a brick. The Royal Nonesuch posted:I'm trying to diagnose my old Cherokee's no-start situation, and due to the fuel pump suddenly not making it's usual whine on startup I borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge from OReilly's (never used one before). The gauge reads zero. It also reads zero when I hook it up to my dad's running Suburban. I'm just screwing the gauge onto the rail schrader valve, right? The fact that the gauge hose leaks gas when I unscrew it tells me the gauge is broken, correct? I'm not missing a subtle nuance of a simple pressure gauge? Is there a button on the gauge body? You may need to press it to get it to read. It'll then hold the reading until you press the button after it's been disconnected. Otherwise, yeah, gauge is broken. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 02:15
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Is there a button on the gauge body? You may need to press it to get it to read. It'll then hold the reading until you press the button after it's been disconnected. Otherwise, yeah, gauge is broken. The only button is for the bleed/relief valve like in this photo - which, incidentally, doesn't release fuel when pressed even on my dad's running engine. That's another thing that confused me... maybe it's the wrong shrader valve fitting; even if the gauge is busted shouldn't the bleed valve work? 
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Oct 7, 2016 05:10
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Mak0rz posted:It certainly felt like water, yeah. It dried clean on my finger. Didn't leave any grimy or sticky film or anything. It's water! And unless you have pure water in your radiator (which you shouldn't) and it leaks (which it if so would do way more of when driving than when parked), it can really only be AC condensation. If you were to leave a glass of water out overnight, would it in any way change appearance to seem non-fresh? How/when it pours out depends mostly on how the evaporator drain thing is constructed in that car, but there is certainly no reason why it isn't possible to get what you're seeing. Maybe the drain is slightly clogged up or something, gently caress if I know.
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Oct 7, 2016 05:14
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ionn posted:If you were to leave a glass of water out overnight, would it in any way change appearance to seem non-fresh? I understand what they mean, freshly dripped water sometimes beads slightly on top of the ground, as opposed to having soaked into it over a few hours. Most evaporator condensation pans have the drain run through the firewall, pointing forward. If it's close to the drain level, and/or parked uphill so it retains water, it's perfectly reasonable that reversing could make the water slosh forward and drain right then. Next time it happens, if it all, try and see where it is relative to the parked car; if it's on the right side slightly behind the front wheels, 99% it's a/c condensate and you can safely ignore it.
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Oct 7, 2016 05:32
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ionn posted:It's water! And unless you have pure water in your radiator (which you shouldn't) and it leaks (which it if so would do way more of when driving than when parked), it can really only be AC condensation. If you were to leave a glass of water out overnight, would it in any way change appearance to seem non-fresh? Well no, I just assumed it wouldn't drip all night and be dried up by morning. Again, not used to running the car in high humidity environment.  Thanks for convincing me it's nothing to worry about though Enourmo posted:I understand what they mean, freshly dripped water sometimes beads slightly on top of the ground, as opposed to having soaked into it over a few hours. Okay, I'll take note of it if I see it again, thanks!
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Oct 7, 2016 05:32
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Christobevii3 posted:The engine mounts are probably shot, specifically top and center causing engine to shift from braking and accelerating. I listened to youtube videos of engine/transmission mount failures and I suspect the shot mount theory is correct. I don't really know what to look for with the mounts themselves but I can move the car around and have someone look at how much the engine moves when changing gears though. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:When it wouldn't go over 10 mph, was it just stuck in 1st and wouldn't upshift? Or did the "reduced power" light come on? (it's an orange light to the right of the tachometer, near the bottom) Or none of the above and it just wouldn't rev high enough to get past 10? I didn't notice if a reduced power light came on, I could press down on the accelerator though and the car sounded like it was trying to rev higher in response to the accelerator going down but it just wouldn't got any faster. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I'm assuming that code is P0962, which is related to a solenoid inside the transmission. It would definitely keep the car from shifting properly, but I don't think it would be causing any noises. It's possible that the wiring harness from the transmission control module to the transmission has some corrosion somewhere and is causing intermittent contact. It could also cause it to get stuck in one particular gear. That doesn't sound good, or like a cheap fix.
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Oct 7, 2016 06:59
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