|
BraveUlysses posted:so is the 21 gal upright compressor from HF a piece of poo poo? good enough for occasional use? i have a shed just outside of my garage where i can run it and not have to listen to it Yeah, they're ok.
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2016 03:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 00:13 |
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:so is the 21 gal upright compressor from HF a piece of poo poo? good enough for occasional use? i have a shed just outside of my garage where i can run it and not have to listen to it The tank is fine. The motors are pretty lovely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2016 02:03
|
|
|
If I want an 18V Makita screwdriver, what do I go for? I have trouble discerning between small-caliber impacts and actual screwdrivers. I see some that are fixed with a 1/4" hex "receiver" that have a very nice short total length. I'm thinking to get one of those as I do more screwing that I do drilling, so something with a, say, 1-13mm chuck would maybe be second priority. In addition to that. I'm going for the DTW281 1/2" impact for sure, unless someone stops me. (Maybe it's called something else elsewhere.) I'm thinking that 280Nm and small size is a good compromise?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2016 09:22
|
|
|
bolind posted:If I want an 18V Makita screwdriver, what do I go for? I have trouble discerning between small-caliber impacts and actual screwdrivers. I have that 1/2" impact wrench, it's loving awesome. Someone posted here recently that they're coming out with a new version of the 18v impact driver and drill, so maybe try to score some of those or see if there's a closeout deal on the older versions? The impact driver is amazing for driving screws, you can certainly do that with the drill too but it's way less efficient. Get the impact driver first, brushless if you can but I have an older non brushless one and I've beat on it pretty hard and it's still rocking. You can always get a bare drill super cheap on Amazon warehouse deals or something, I think I paid like 35 bucks for mine. If you're looking at getting multiple tools look around and see if there are any deals that get you some free batteries, there was one a while back where you bought any 3 tools and got a charger, 2 batts and a bag free.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2016 14:53
|
|
|
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-1-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B000O3I5GY This works in a pinch. I would get an impact first. Then do like the other guy said and get a cheap drill. I don't see any reason for a fancy cordless drill unless you are getting a good deal on a two piece kit. Makita might still have their promo going where if you buy 3 cordless bare tools they give you a bat and charger. Then you could have your drill imp and trim saw all at once.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2016 15:15
|
|
|
Got my fancy new ratchet! And ~~~German workgloves~~~ and they kicked me a free driver bit too, aww This thing is fuckin niiiiiice. Great weight and feel to it, can't wait to use it. KC Tools was nice to deal with too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2016 18:37
|
|
|
Fun fact I just discovered: If you need to change the oil in a Ford Modular V8 and can't find a 16mm socket for the drain plug, 5/8" works too, and not in the "it'll do" way -- 5/8" is 15.875mm. Given manufacturing tolerances, that's a better 16mm than the one marked 16mm.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 22:00
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
Delivery McGee posted:Fun fact I just discovered: If you need to change the oil in a Ford Modular V8 and can't find a 16mm socket for the drain plug, 5/8" works too, and not in the "it'll do" way -- 5/8" is 15.875mm. Given manufacturing tolerances, that's a better 16mm than the one marked 16mm. That's why most sets don't even include a 16mm, they just assume you'll use the 5/8. Also why I use a 14mm wrench on everything, it fits just a little bit tighter than the 9/16 the bolts are supposed to be.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 22:36
|
|
|
Agreed. I do the same thing, also 5/16 is a gnat's whisker from being 8mm. 8mm is 2.49 thousandths of an inch larger... so always use a 5/16 and try to use a 6 point when possible. This sort of thing is quite often the root of all the "it was a metric bolt but it had an SAE head, wtf!" rumors you'll see on forums and facebook mechanic posts. Very very occasionally it's actually true, like the rover valvecover bolts that cursedshitbox told me about one time (I think?), but 99% of the time it's 14mm vs 9/16", 16mm vs 5/8", 19mm vs 3/4", 13mm vs 1/2", or 8mm vs 5/16" from what I have seen. Oh, and everyone thinks 22mm O2 sensor hexes are 7/8", including me until I realized it's almost always an M18x1.5 thread and a 22mm hex.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 22:57
|
|
|
kastein posted:Agreed. I do the same thing, also 5/16 is a gnat's whisker from being 8mm. 8mm is 2.49 thousandths of an inch larger... so always use a 5/16 and try to use a 6 point when possible. I still maintain that I've got a nut for a 5/16" thread that fits only a 12mm wrench; 1/2" is way too loose for it. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 23:27
|
|
|
Raluek posted:I still maintain that I've got a nut for a 5/16" thread that fits only a 12mm wrench; 1/2" is way too loose for it. Sure it isn't rusted down? That means no rules apply anymore  The other example I can think of offhand is 3/8-24 invert flare unions at autozone, they all have a 12mm outside hex. I assume it is because the manufacturer uses the same barstock for 3/8 and 10mm unions. Fine with me, means I will never need two of the same size flare wrench at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 02:20
|
|
|
kastein posted:Sure it isn't rusted down? That means no rules apply anymore Yup. California, and it was like that right from the hardware store. Grabbed a half inch wrench to snug it down right after getting it from the store, and the wrench was almost slipping off the nut; it only just barely caught the tips of the corners. 12mm wrench fits like a wrench should.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 02:48
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Yup. California, and it was like that right from the hardware store. Grabbed a half inch wrench to snug it down right after getting it from the store, and the wrench was almost slipping off the nut; it only just barely caught the tips of the corners. 12mm wrench fits like a wrench should. 15/32"?  Alternately, how new was 1/2" the wrench? Maybe it's the part that's off. Although 12mm is quite a bit smaller than 1/2" (12.7mm) -- maybe the bolt's on the small end and both wrenches are on the big end of the acceptable range; tolerances stack. The only real way to find out is to measure both -- know any machinists?
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 05:27
|
|
|
bolind posted:If I want an 18V Makita screwdriver, what do I go for? I have trouble discerning between small-caliber impacts and actual screwdrivers. I know you meant cordless drill, but if anyone is legit looking for an electric screwdriver for stuff like precision electronics work, this proxxon screwdriver and transformer are pretty sweet, and they have a bunch of different heads like grinders
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 06:21
|
|
|
Not a hand tool, but does anyone have a recommendation for a handheld diagnostic tool for bleeding ABS brake modules, specifically GM modules? I normally don't have issues with it, but I have an '07 Sierra that must have gotten air into the ABS unit during a caliper swap, and I'm going to end up dropping it off at the shop down the street to have them perform the ABS unit cycle and flush just to get it out of my hair. I'd like to keep it under $300 if possible. I see some of the smaller Autel units (MD802, Maxicheck Airbag/ABS?) seem like they'd do what I want while still being within budget. Much as I'd love one of the MaxiSys units, I don't take on enough diagnostics work anymore to have a need for it. And if I'm spending $1000+, I think I'd rather swing to Auto Enginuity and use something laptop based, and feel more confident in getting support.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 16:01
|
|
|
PitViper posted:Not a hand tool, but does anyone have a recommendation for a handheld diagnostic tool for bleeding ABS brake modules, specifically GM modules? I normally don't have issues with it, but I have an '07 Sierra that must have gotten air into the ABS unit during a caliper swap, and I'm going to end up dropping it off at the shop down the street to have them perform the ABS unit cycle and flush just to get it out of my hair. Auto enginuity is a great option. As is the autel scanner. We have the OTC at my work an it is a couple grand of pure shite. We have returned ours three times for multiple failures. So much so it's gonna get returned and the autel purchased. But in your case spend the 250 for the basic enginuity set up and be good to go. Assuming you have a laptop for it. They really do offer a lot and having the laptop already out makes it easier to look up more on the repairs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 20:43
|
|
|
I think the base Auto Enginuity package won't do what I want. If it does, then I will 100% buy that over the Autel, and replace my old Innova scanner (or at least relegate it to backup duty). I've been considering AE for a while, because I've been running into tasks that would be easier with a diagnostic tool, and I like that adding each make for enhanced diagnostics is relatively cheap. Wish I could just buy and install now, but I'd have to wait for the dongle and cable to ship, and the car needs to be done tomorrow. Oh well!
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 21:46
|
|
|
PitViper posted:I think the base Auto Enginuity package won't do what I want. If it does, then I will 100% buy that over the Autel, and replace my old Innova scanner (or at least relegate it to backup duty). I've been considering AE for a while, because I've been running into tasks that would be easier with a diagnostic tool, and I like that adding each make for enhanced diagnostics is relatively cheap. Wish I could just buy and install now, but I'd have to wait for the dongle and cable to ship, and the car needs to be done tomorrow. Oh well! The autel will do the abs bleed and is a very nice scan tool for the money. We borrowed one from another shop for a while and it was awesome. Just there scanner had not been updated since 14. But otherwise it's very adequate and does what you need. Most horror fright have them in stock.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
I have a Milwaukee 18v Fuel drill(no hammer). I have tried a couple times to get it to drive a 4 inch holesaw in sheet metal. Not even bearing down on it, it won't go for very long and the drill shuts down for a minute or so, dead trigger. All I am running now are the 2.0 batteries. Would the bigger batteries help? It's conceivable that a bigger battery pack could provide more current if the circuitry allowed it... The drill works fine otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2016 23:27
|
|
|
PitViper posted:Not a hand tool, but does anyone have a recommendation for a handheld diagnostic tool for bleeding ABS brake modules, specifically GM modules? I normally don't have issues with it, but I have an '07 Sierra that must have gotten air into the ABS unit during a caliper swap, and I'm going to end up dropping it off at the shop down the street to have them perform the ABS unit cycle and flush just to get it out of my hair. I once got around the ABS bleeding procedure after replacing a metal brake line by driving it around in a parking lot and slamming the brakes till the abs cycled a bunch of times. Then I did a normal bleeding procedure after and everything went back to normal. YMMV.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 00:34
|
|
|
Bogatyr posted:I have a Milwaukee 18v Fuel drill(no hammer). I have tried a couple times to get it to drive a 4 inch holesaw in sheet metal. Not even bearing down on it, it won't go for very long and the drill shuts down for a minute or so, dead trigger. All I am running now are the 2.0 batteries. Would the bigger batteries help? It's conceivable that a bigger battery pack could provide more current if the circuitry allowed it... The drill works fine otherwise. No. New cordless tools have auto cut offs when they draw too much power. Doesn't matter what size batt you use as long as it's working correctly. You'll need to go even lighter on it and use cutting oil or get a corded drill.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 03:22
|
|
|
Bogatyr posted:I have a Milwaukee 18v Fuel drill(no hammer). I have tried a couple times to get it to drive a 4 inch holesaw in sheet metal. Not even bearing down on it, it won't go for very long and the drill shuts down for a minute or so, dead trigger. All I am running now are the 2.0 batteries. Would the bigger batteries help? It's conceivable that a bigger battery pack could provide more current if the circuitry allowed it... The drill works fine otherwise. Is your hole saw good for the sheet metal you are cutting, and has teeth that are actually sharp?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 03:32
|
|
|
MRC48B posted:Is your hole saw good for the sheet metal you are cutting, and has teeth that are actually sharp? Brand new Milwaukee holesaw, cuts fine in a corded drill.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 05:42
|
|
|
Mcqueen posted:No. New cordless tools have auto cut offs when they draw too much power. Doesn't matter what size batt you use as long as it's working correctly. Kinda what I figured, the 2.0 batteries fit my uses adequately, I didn't want to spend the money if it made no difference. I been kinda itching to get the cordless jigsaw. holesaws that big are no fun corded drill or not.The last one I did with a corded sawzall(I was waiting for a new cord to come in for my magnum drill that day...) The blades I had were wide and stout so that was a chore.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 05:49
|
|
|
Mcqueen posted:No. New cordless tools have auto cut offs when they draw too much power. Doesn't matter what size batt you use as long as it's working correctly. If they have 2 way communication, they would know what capacity battery is being used. The higher amp hour one should probably allow for more current, whether because 10*C on the larger cells is a higher number, or because there are more cells in parallel.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 07:32
|
|
|
At the very least, Ryobi's tools have current limiters in their li-ion packs. I don't see why the Milwaukee Fuel stuff would be any different; the cordless ryobi circular saw won't run off the 1.5 or 2.5ah packs, it needs a 4.0 or a 5.0, so it's conceivable that you're hitting the battery overcurrent limiter rather than the tool overload.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 15:07
|
|
|
That's just how lithium batteries are built. If the holesaw grabs suddenly the current will spike high enough to either trip the battery's overcurrent protector (which is usually built using an mcu, a lithium battery management AFE, a kelvin-sense resistor, and a power MOSFET) or cause a cell voltage droop that will make the MCU think the cell is fully discharged. Try a NiCd battery in the same tool if your toolmaker has them, I bet it will do holesaws fine, though with a lower power because NiCds kinda suck. E: worth noting - a lot of lithium batteries for power tools are built lazily, they don't have cell balancing and many times you can recover a "dead" one that the charger refuses to touch by opening it, finding the dud cell with a DMM, and manually charging that single cell till it matches the others again, assuming it hadn't dropped below the minimum safe voltage for the cell chemistry in use. Pretty crappy design, really, but it lets em save a couple bucks on parts and the pack will last past warranty end, so who cares right? kastein fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Oct 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 17:51
|
|
|
Bogatyr posted:I have a Milwaukee 18v Fuel drill(no hammer). I have tried a couple times to get it to drive a 4 inch holesaw in sheet metal. Not even bearing down on it, it won't go for very long and the drill shuts down for a minute or so, dead trigger. All I am running now are the 2.0 batteries. Would the bigger batteries help? It's conceivable that a bigger battery pack could provide more current if the circuitry allowed it... The drill works fine otherwise. Maybe try some cutting fluid to help lubricate the cut? Sheet metal should be an easy thing to get through. Make sure you're using the bimetal holesaw blade with carbide or diamond tips. The harbor freight hole saw kit is actually a pretty decent buy, and should work for this kind of thing. Bigger batteries should only provide longer runtime. You need a tool capable of putting out more amps. You know, I wonder if you have the clutch set correctly? Make sure it's set to drill and not one of the numbers, otherwise it'll cut out when it hits the set resistance.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 18:26
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Huh, I've never had any issues running a 4" holesaw on my Makita 18v drill, through concrete transite, hardwood, steel screen backed plaster and lathe, I've never had anything cause it to cut out like that on me. It was a brand new Milwaukee bimetal holesaw. A coworkers older Milwaukee (not brushless) has done it. My suspicion is that the brushless is protecting itself where an older dumber drill may not. It may be too sensitive. edit: More like kastein said. Freehand holesaw that big is going to grab, the drill is protecting itself/the battery from the spikes. Bogatyr fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Oct 2, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2016 19:26
|
|
|
PitViper posted:I think the base Auto Enginuity package won't do what I want. If it does, then I will 100% buy that over the Autel, and replace my old Innova scanner (or at least relegate it to backup duty). I've been considering AE for a while, because I've been running into tasks that would be easier with a diagnostic tool, and I like that adding each make for enhanced diagnostics is relatively cheap. Wish I could just buy and install now, but I'd have to wait for the dongle and cable to ship, and the car needs to be done tomorrow. Oh well! I have one, with the GM add on. I'd lend it to you if you wanna try it out. The addon is from ~2010, so it doesn't necessarily support the latest cars. Pm me if you're interested.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2016 17:25
|
|
|
How stupid am I for considering using an 8 gallon air compressor without a regulator? I know I should just spend the  to replace the cracked regulator, but its only ever going to be used for filling tires and the hose/chuck are rated for higher than the max tank pressure so I'm considering being cheap. Someone talk me out of being an idiot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 09:06
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:How stupid am I for considering using an 8 gallon air compressor without a regulator? I know I should just spend the You'll be fine. What's the cutoff on that compressor? 120?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 20:30
|
|
|
Unsane posted:You'll be fine. What's the cutoff on that compressor? 120? Roughly. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work, but that's also the line of thinking that leads to winning a Darwin Award because you wanted to preheat your Lava Lamp on the stove or something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 01:34
|
|
|
The previous shop I worked in had been running a compressor with no regulator for years. Just a hose straight from the tank. I installed one finally because I didn't want to blow up my expensive air tools. As a bonus, the water drain was in a pain in the rear end place, too, so it almost never got drained. If all you're doing is filling tires, you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 05:01
|
|
|
Does anyone have any opinions/experience with the Harbor Freight engine hoist/shop crane? I'm thinking of picking one up to pull an engine, and the ones I see on Craigslist always sell too quickly. Amazon apparently has some as well, for $10 shipping (not Prime-eligible), I guess that's also an option. I guess I'm looking for a 2-ton crane (more because I want extra length than I need high-capacity), and I'd like it to have folding legs due to limited floor space in my garage.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2016 19:02
|
|
|
boxen posted:Does anyone have any opinions/experience with the Harbor Freight engine hoist/shop crane? I'm thinking of picking one up to pull an engine, and the ones I see on Craigslist always sell too quickly. It functions. I borrowed one from a car club contact and it did the job, but leaked a little so my "rental cost" was a bottle of hydraulic fluid. If you've got an exposed beam in your garage, the HF beam trolley and manual chain hoist is a way nicer combo and easy to store.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2016 19:15
|
|
|
Overhead cranes aren't really an option, I'm renting the garage. Currently pulling the engine out of the car in a friend's garage, with no exposed beams. Thanks for the feedback, I really just wanted to make sure it wasn't "kill you and everyone you've ever met" bad. I can deal with having to add fluid when I need to use it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2016 19:39
|
|
|
I have one and would recommend it. I left it in the yard in the rain and snow for several years, sometimes extended sometimes fully collapsed, and the piston shaft definitely got a bit rust pitted but it still worked alright-ish. Lent it to ACEofsnett on a longterm basis, he threw a new ram on it because it was annoying him, and it continues to work fine. I think I've owned it since... 2010? and probably used it a dozen times, never really taking care of it. The wheels don't roll very well (no bearings, just cast iron wheel with a shaft through it) so lube them a bit with some wd40 or something. Also, it's very much like a mechanics crawler, it'll hold up 250lb or 4000lb (respectively) but it can't roll over a loving ziptie, so I hope your floor is smooth.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2016 20:25
|
|
|
kastein posted:I have one and would recommend it. I left it in the yard in the rain and snow for several years, sometimes extended sometimes fully collapsed, and the piston shaft definitely got a bit rust pitted but it still worked alright-ish. Lent it to ACEofsnett on a longterm basis, he threw a new ram on it because it was annoying him, and it continues to work fine. I think I've owned it since... 2010? and probably used it a dozen times, never really taking care of it. Alright, sounds like it'll be fine then. I'm working on a Fiero, and pulling the engine out of it involves unbolting the subframe and lifting the rear of the car a few feet in the air, and sliding the engine/transmission/subframe assembly out from under the car, so the crane doesn't actually need to roll. It even looks like the 20% off coupon might work on their shop cranes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2016 21:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 00:13 |
|
|
Yeah that crane is fine and it rolls awful. Sweep the floor first. Maybe in the winter I'll rig some real wheels for race duty.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2016 05:07
|
|
