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ImplicitAssembler posted:Don't do that. A crash will cause the battery to mash into the fc. Leave at least 1/4 to 1/2" between the 2. There's just plain no room not to do this with a couple of the batteries I have. I'll have to replace them then, I suppose, but sheesh these things already get maybe 3, 4 minutes of flight time as is, not gonna be much fun with an even smaller battery. sigseven posted:It looks like the VTX antenna would block centering it any better on top. Underslung batteries with no landing gear are pretty common in compact X-frames, but this frame definitely wasn't designed for it. Putting a gopro/mobius/foxeer legend on the front might balance it out. Thing is, it's just a cheap, crap frame. Combat Pretzel posted:Are you using a throttle curve in dRonin? If not and the throttle curve is linear, holy poo poo 69% hover throttle. You have a terrible thrust to weight ratio. I guess the net summary here is... it is what I bought it as, a cheap first-time-flyer's drone, and I should  until I can afford/want to buy something new and better 
Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 00:29
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sigseven posted:Also, it looks like your propellers are on upside down? That is, the overall direction/angle is right but the airfoil is upside down. Or maybe it's an optical illusion of the angle in this particular photo... but generally the side with the brand/"5030"/etc on it should go up. Ciaphas posted:Yeah, all the text is on the bottoms, just an illusion. Props won't go on to the bolts right upside down anyway so I'd notice immediately. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 00:37
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Wait I misread, they should go text up? Hang on I need to see if these things are re-seatable the other way. It always feels like it's not on right when I do that by mistake though.
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Oct 9, 2016 00:39
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The top of the blade is going to be more convex, and the bottom will be less so or more commonly, concave.
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Oct 9, 2016 00:52
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alright well I don't know what happened last time I tried to put them on 'upside down' but this time they went on fine and the whole thing flew a million times more stably and powerfully https://dronin-autotown.appspot.com/at/tune/ahFzfmRyb25pbi1hdXRvdG93bnIYCxILVHVuZVJlc3VsdHMYgICA4PyMqQgM i'm too stupid to be allowed near anything that isn't a computer [and even then it's a wash]
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Oct 9, 2016 00:53
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Yea 27% sounds right, your biases and gains look better now and the EKF noise is nearly gone. Thing should fly way better now. Tau is a little high. If they're BLHeli ESCs, I'd say Damped Light isn't enabled. dRonin doesn't have 4WIF passthrough yet, do you'd need an FTDI or an Arduino or flash Cleanflight onto the CC3D to reprogram the ESCs. Damped Light would cut the system response time in two, more or less. But given everything that you touch kind of goes sideways, I'd say go fly for a while. There's ongoing work to make the passthrough for the BLHeliSuite work. If they're not ESCs with BLHeli, that's an investment that'll be worthwhile. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 01:02
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That's the plan, I'm off to the park, hopefully to actually get to try out this whole FPV thing, if I can get enough space for myself.Combat Pretzel posted:everything that you touch kind of goes sideways
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Oct 9, 2016 01:09
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Two observations from this evening - Funny how batteries last a lot longer when you're more likely to be at about 30% throttle than 70% at any given time - Jesus christ and all his saints flying FPV is loving terrifying
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Oct 9, 2016 02:16
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Ciaphas posted:Two observations from this evening
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Oct 9, 2016 08:54
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If you have a decent set of PIDs and found the rates you're comfortable with, FPV is pretty easy. Except landing, depending on camera angle. If you want to switch to autolevel, so that you can pull off your goggles to land LOS, let the quad coast for a while before switching, so that the attitude filter can remove any bias that may have built up. Also, try to main some spatial awareness, so you know where you went down. Seen it often enough that someone crashes and then can't figure out where. --edit: Also, if you fly a 2.8mm lens, I'd suggest upgrading to 2.5mm for a wider field of view. These things cost like 5 bux. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 12:33
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Yeah it was less difficulty steering or whatever--I've had a ton of practice in Liftoff at this point--and more just being scared to death of losing the thing or just scared in general when I went higher than the treeline. Maybe I was scared of losing signal or something  We'll see how it goes when I go to the tree-free AMA field later today.
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Oct 9, 2016 18:17
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Combat Pretzel posted:If you have a decent set of PIDs and found the rates you're comfortable with, FPV is pretty easy. Except landing, depending on camera angle. If you want to switch to autolevel, so that you can pull off your goggles to land LOS, let the quad coast for a while before switching, so that the attitude filter can remove any bias that may have built up. 
bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 21:55
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That was fun and utterly terrifying in equal measure and I didn't even really do anything but hover, turn and try to stay aloft 
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Oct 10, 2016 02:11
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bring back old gbs posted:So 2.8mm is not wide enough for me at all.
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Oct 10, 2016 10:12
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I joined the world of helicopter flying Sunday and did my first flight on my 270 CFX. I know it's not super impressive, but nothing broke so it was a good day! I was wondering if anyone more experienced had one of these and might have suggestions for improvements or anything that I should look into. I always hate trying to wade through the bigger forums looking for that sort of thing. Or just advice in general for someone that is an experienced airplane flyer but new to helicopters.
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Oct 10, 2016 14:42
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I wasn't very interested in quadcopters when I thought the best live video you could get was on a phone that you were also controlling it from. Then a friend showed me her FPV goggles and well I've become $600 poorer in the last week. She sold me her old Eachine 250 racer kit and a few batteries, and I just got two more 1550mAh 45Cs and two iMAX 6A chargers + 6-way balance boards (Amazon screwed up same-day shipping and refunded me for one order, but implied that I should just reorder ... I didn't realize they didn't actually cancel the original order... so now I have two.). I haven't even gotten the FPV goggles I have my eye on yet. That's next month. I have a monitor that works great right now. How do you not just want to do this all day every day? I am so mad that I am getting into this hobby right before wintertime really kicks in. I've been picking it up pretty fast though, I can do wobbly bad laps around the field on my work campus using only FPV, and I even occasionally turn it to Rattitude mode! ...not Acro because that is just too scary right now. I really need a better video transmitter in this thing though. It seems to start losing signal way too close ... or I spend too much time a thousand feet up. I kind of like racing and I want to get better at it, but I also want to build a drone that I can just fly for a long time with good (FPV) video quality and range.
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Oct 11, 2016 05:23
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCRRrxerD98 I love my Banshee. I put the Mobius back on and tossed the plane back in the air.
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Oct 11, 2016 06:20
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Dessert Rose posted:I wasn't very interested in quadcopters when I thought the best live video you could get was on a phone that you were also controlling it from. Hey fellow eachine racer 250 owner  Trust me, learn to fly Acro/Rate. I had to fight for quite a while to unlearn the habits I picked up from flying leveling.
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Oct 11, 2016 06:30
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Ciaphas posted:Hey fellow eachine racer 250 owner Spent a couple hours in FPV Freerider last night (on a PS2 controller, lol), eventually managed to make a single lap without crashing on the advice of a video series mentioned upthread a bit. Maybe I'll give Acro a try for real today at the field. If I'm a few hundred feet up, theoretically I'll have time to flip it to autolevel if I lose it... probably. In some ways Acro is actually easier - leveling introduces some unexpected inputs that make turning a bit less smooth than I'd expect. It's so nice to have a real charger that can charge all my batteries in a little over 2h. No more sitting at my desk at work wondering how I'll explain the lipo fire in that bag...
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Oct 11, 2016 17:54
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The quicker you go acro the better. I impressed myself by picking it up so quickly, it's easier than you think but it requires commitment. I just straight up removed auto level from my quad one day and just kept wasting packs until I could do a decent bank turn. If I had auto level I would have given up after a battery pack or two so I could do some "fun" flying in auto level mode instead of powering through it and figuring it out.
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Oct 11, 2016 18:17
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Okay, committing to acro laps today for all my packs. Is there a cable that will get the eachine i6 that came with this thing connected to my Mac so I can use it in Freerider, or am I basically stuck with using a ps2 controller? Which isn't super bad anyway, but it would be nice to have a throttle that makes sense.
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Oct 11, 2016 19:17
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Dessert Rose posted:Okay, committing to acro laps today for all my packs. https://smile.amazon.com/GoolRC-Universal-Flight-Simulator-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0
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Oct 11, 2016 19:20
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Frozen Pizza Party posted:https://smile.amazon.com/GoolRC-Universal-Flight-Simulator-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0 Thanks! That's the one I was looking at, just wasn't sure if it'd work with my transmitter. 
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Oct 11, 2016 19:28
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Flyduino proposed DShot as new ESC protocol, which sends throttle as 11bit data and 4bit CRC to the ESCs at ~600kbit. I wonder if that'll eventually get adopted, especially because it sorta relies on a more capable MCU than what most ESCs come with.
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Oct 11, 2016 21:42
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Frozen Pizza Party posted:https://smile.amazon.com/GoolRC-Universal-Flight-Simulator-Futaba/dp/B00DR4I4O0 Confirm that this one does the job nicely, I've used it with both FPV Freerider and Lift Off with no issue once I figured out how to get the remote into student mode (hold both horizontal trim switches inward as you turn it on, you should see a little airplane on the screen, then hold or hit OK to go to the menu and futz around). Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Oct 11, 2016 |
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Oct 11, 2016 23:38
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Had a good time in acro today, but taking off is impossible. How does it even work? Once I got in the air in attitude I could switch to Acro and did some cool laps around the field without crashing into anything. The first couple packs were more like "poo poo where did I just end up", switch back to attitude and try to get back to myself, then switch back to Acro and try again - but after a bit of that I started to actually get the hang of managing my altitude and general speed. Super fun. Just ordered another pair of 1550s, so now I should be able to fly for an entire half hour at a stretch. I really want a new FPV camera on this thing, though. Friend managed to damage the clover a bit and now the already poor range is basically awful. I really want to be able to go exploring with this thing... Help this hobby is consuming my wallet.
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Oct 12, 2016 00:53
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From another newbie's perspective, I found that taking off is easier when I punch the throttle up fast and pitch forward slightly until it's off the ground at least five feet, because churning air near the ground really just fucks up everything if you're not moving laterally
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Oct 12, 2016 01:28
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Dessert Rose posted:Had a good time in acro today, but taking off is impossible. How does it even work?
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Oct 12, 2016 01:41
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Combat Pretzel posted:What do you mean? Does the quad flip on take-off? If so, that shouldn't happen. Unless you deflect pitch, roll and/or yaw, it should take off straight up, even in acro. Maybe I need to punch the throttle harder, but it definitely seems like it's trying to flip on the way up. It doesn't do that in attitude mode. I might have just been too timid to hit it harder, though. I also found that the rear half wasn't properly bolted to the bottom, so maybe that was affecting calibration. I'll re-calibrate it tonight now that I've moved a couple screws to those arms (and I'm waiting on a pack of screws to properly mount everything)
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Oct 12, 2016 03:40
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Dessert Rose posted:Maybe I need to punch the throttle harder, but it definitely seems like it's trying to flip on the way up. It doesn't do that in attitude mode. One thing with the eachine is that the CG with most batteries is way in the back so if it's flipping backwards that's probably why Once the motors get going (assuming a good calibration) it handles itself but yeah mine's touchy in the same way
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Oct 12, 2016 04:01
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Ah yeah, that might have been what was happening. I also think it leans a little bit to one side, but maybe I'm imagining that / causing it. I'll try forward starts - it seems to be a good way to get going in the simulator too, since otherwise you end up floating in some random direction. Better to select the correct direction from the start.
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Oct 12, 2016 06:31
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subx posted:Or just advice in general for someone that is an experienced airplane flyer but new to helicopters. I wish I had good advice. But it's nice to have another whirly-winged flyer on the forums. I've got a couple 130x's, a CP-S, CP-X, MCPx, and... we'll not count the fixed pitch stuff. I'm good enough to reliably fly and not have broken bits at the end of the day.
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Oct 12, 2016 08:07
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Nerobro posted:I wish I had good advice. But it's nice to have another whirly-winged flyer on the forums. I've got a couple 130x's, a CP-S, CP-X, MCPx, and... we'll not count the fixed pitch stuff. I'm trying to get good at steady hovering, but have done a bit of "flying" and not broken anything. All that 3D airplane hovering seems to have helped as at least my orientation skills aren't too bad when the heli gets turned around. Practice on Phoenix for hovering doesn't seem to help me much, the "twitchiness" feels off for the smaller helicopters. My real one feels nicer than the crazy sim version that goes careening left/right at the slightest bump of the stick. I'm going to play with rates and things and see if I can get it a bit better. I was looking at some of the accessories and things people make for this little bird, holy crap. There is aluminum and carbon fiber replacements for everything.
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Oct 12, 2016 13:22
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subx posted:I'm trying to get good at steady hovering, but have done a bit of "flying" and not broken anything. All that 3D airplane hovering seems to have helped as at least my orientation skills aren't too bad when the heli gets turned around. Well that IS advice I can give. Resist aluminum and carbon. When you reinforce something, that stress goes somewhere else in the event of a crash. Usually somewhere much more expensive. And if you chase broken parts, you eventually end up back where you started, or you end up with a bird that can't lift itself. IIRC the 230CFX has rotary servos? Look into how people stop those geartrains from stripping. It'll save you a good bit of money. One of my 130X's is the RedBull version, and I keep having the tail rotor strike things. It fools me into being ok, becuase I can do a waggly tail takeoff. But eventually in flight the tail rotor loses drive and I lose rudder control. ... not good. So I've got some new gears in the mail for that. Annoyingly, I'm down under 10 minutes to swap out the main tail drive gear. My first collective pitch heli was the MCPX. But I kept thinking something was wrong with it. So I bought the Nano CP-X. And that's one seriously twitchy mother. So the MCPX felt sedate in comparison. And the 130 ~almost~ feels sluggish. This is going to sound redundant, but it's important. GOOD BATTERIES ARE CRITICAL. Especially on the 1s aircraft. And I"m starting to feel it on the 130's too. I have a thing for heli's with fuselages. So the MCPX I usually fly has the FAI fuselage on it. As does my "normal" 130X. If they sold a nice, light, fuselage for the Nano CP-X I'd fly that with one too. I don't know how pheonix does it's models... if you want a heli to be less twitchy, pick a bigger one. I suspect they have .60 or 1.20 size heli's in there, grab one of those and that'll help. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 15:04
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Nerobro posted:Well that IS advice I can give. Resist aluminum and carbon. When you reinforce something, that stress goes somewhere else in the event of a crash. Usually somewhere much more expensive. And if you chase broken parts, you eventually end up back where you started, or you end up with a bird that can't lift itself. IIRC the 230CFX has rotary servos? Look into how people stop those geartrains from stripping. It'll save you a good bit of money. Yea, this little sucker uses a 6s(!) 900+ MAH battery. Guy sold it to me with a couple of batteries, I'll pick up a couple more at some point. I am not really tempted by the fancy accessories at this point, but I will look into the geartrain stuff, thanks!
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Oct 12, 2016 16:42
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Can anyone recommend... uh, whatever it is I need to charge multiple lipos simultaneously off of one charger? (Assuming this is possible/safe)
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Oct 12, 2016 20:35
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Ciaphas posted:Can anyone recommend... uh, whatever it is I need to charge multiple lipos simultaneously off of one charger? (Assuming this is possible/safe) Oscarliang.com read the parallel charging tutorial.
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Oct 12, 2016 21:11
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It's totally possible, and safe, but match brands/size/state-of-charge. The latter is most important or you WILL smoke something. I am generally ok with .15v pack difference when plugging in, and plug in the main leads, wait a few seconds for current to equalize, then add the balance leads.
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Oct 12, 2016 22:10
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Just did six packs in acro 100% of the time. Taking off is fine if I punch the throttle - it actually tries to roll somewhat to the left on takeoff, but I think it's just miscalibration. Even in the air it slowly rolled to the left so I just fixed it with trim. Managed to avoid crashing into the light poles when trying to circle them (or when just leveling out after a turn), somewhat got the hang of drop & catch (don't cut throttle all the way oh god that's a bad idea I'm glad I was far enough up to fix that mistake), only stressed a couple of props on some rough landings, and actually got going pretty fast close to the ground - my altitude control is massively improving. My video tx clover is really looking beat up though, the insulation is almost completely torn off at the base, so I guess it's time to get another couple of those. It'll probably make my video range not complete poo poo again. It's so much FUN in acro and now that I've gotten a bit of practice I can't imagine using (r)attitude for anything but maybe taking off goggles - but I know how to land from FPV, too, so I don't think that's super important either. I'm going to make the default switch position acro, have attitude in there for when someone wants to try it out, and then I guess the third position should be some kind of auto-hover mode. Trying to avoid spending much more on this this month, but I feel like the FPV camera/tx could use some major upgrades - maybe goggles alone would help with it though? I'm finding it hard to see detail on the screen sometimes, and maybe if I didn't have the sun on my screen it would help.
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Oct 12, 2016 23:57
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I use <acro, airmode, horizon>. Default is acro, and slapping the switch stabilizes you.
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Oct 13, 2016 15:02
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