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I painted two Perry Miniatures mercenaries and decided to share them with you guys. The white is shaded with sepia irl, I'm just not good at taking photos. I was wondering how I should stick them to a base, since I'm going to use them in Kings of War and need them standing on 20mm squares. I'm leaning on using the Mantic bases with mostly suitable holes already in them, and fill the extra space with... green stuff, I guess? Or would something else be a more suitable filler material?
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Oct 9, 2016 13:03
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I use Liquitex Acrylic Texture Paste for that sort of work. It's way cheaper than green stuff and easier to use for bases and such.
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Oct 9, 2016 17:32
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Anyone have thoughts on how I can get this scroll to look cleaner? The process is like: Zandri Dust, Earthshade (Everything looks fine up to this point), Ushabti Bone, Pallid Wytch Flesh I have a lot of trouble painting the ushabti in a way that doesn't look messy.
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Oct 9, 2016 18:03
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I have a quick question about the Plastic Soldier Company sprays: are they supposed to be like Army Painter Colour Primers where you just spray them on the plastic, or do the minis need to be primed first? I'm looking into getting some for Flames of War/Bolt Action.
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Oct 9, 2016 18:45
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Yvonmukluk posted:I have a quick question about the Plastic Soldier Company sprays: are they supposed to be like Army Painter Colour Primers where you just spray them on the plastic, or do the minis need to be primed first? I'm looking into getting some for Flames of War/Bolt Action. The former. I've used PSC British Armor for some stuff and it's pretty much a primer.
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Oct 9, 2016 19:31
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I'm having a loving hard time finding some Krylon black or white primer. What are some other recommended brands?
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Oct 9, 2016 20:23
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GreenMarine posted:Anyone have thoughts on how I can get this scroll to look cleaner? All I can think of is going over the edges of the script and cleaning up where the earthshade splashed over.
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Oct 9, 2016 21:32
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mango sentinel posted:I'm having a loving hard time finding some Krylon black or white primer. What are some other recommended brands? I tried out most every brand of primer at the hardware store, but once I switched to rustoleum/duplicolor sandable auto primer I never went back. The spray nozzles are great, they seem to work well even without perfect humidity/temperatures, and every auto part store has them dirt cheap. Full Circle fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 21:38
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Can confirm that Rustoleum primers are great and cheap. Only caveat being the usual for rattlecans (shake thoroughly and clean off the nozzle after every batch to prevent dry grainy priming or spitting globs of it on your pieces). I've done priming with them from dry sunny days to humid days to cold as heck nights, they're very temp-resistant. Just let it cure for a few days if you use enamel paints; as I recently learned, just because lacquer is a stronger and more corrosive paint doesn't mean that enamel won't chew up uncured lacquer. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 21:52
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Floppychop posted:All I can think of is going over the edges of the script and cleaning up where the earthshade splashed over. I tried a drybrushed version as an alternative. It takes about 10x faster to apply and I think it looks better. I can clean up the edges with a solid highlight and leave the letters alone. 
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Oct 9, 2016 22:09
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GreenMarine posted:I tried a drybrushed version as an alternative. It takes about 10x faster to apply and I think it looks better. I can clean up the edges with a solid highlight and leave the letters alone. Drybrush to clean up shading/lining is what's recommended in the warhammer channel's videos which are pretty great. It's also possible to do a reverse wash for a crisp effect (paint entire thing the parchment color, seal, paint the ink color over, use your paints thinner to clean up spillage), but that requires steep enough engraving edges to pull off cleanly. In any case, that looks pretty great, and way nicer than the prior pic 
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Oct 9, 2016 22:15
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Neurolimal posted:Drybrush to clean up shading/lining is what's recommended in the warhammer channel's videos which are pretty great. It's also possible to do a reverse wash for a crisp effect (paint entire thing the parchment color, seal, paint the ink color over, use your paints thinner to clean up spillage), but that requires steep enough engraving edges to pull off cleanly. I've not done a reverse wash, I might try that some time. Nonetheless, I'll go with this for now. Thanks for the feedback. I like posting questions here because people are critical (telling me I need to get better on X or Y axis by doing Z isn't going to hurt my internet feelings).
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Oct 9, 2016 22:39
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Cooked Auto posted:The former. I've used PSC British Armor for some stuff and it's pretty much a primer. Great! I've got some Commandos that are going to need painting soon. And some Armoured Doughs. And some tanks...
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Oct 9, 2016 23:06
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Is krylon MAXX ok to use? The white and grey I got just say primer, the black is primer+paint.
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Oct 10, 2016 00:51
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I'm going to paint for the first time in a few days. If I use a wet pallet, do I need to thin? Does the water of the wet pallet thin it? If it's one thing I know about mini painting it's to thin your paints.
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Oct 10, 2016 01:12
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Serenade posted:I'm going to paint for the first time in a few days. If I use a wet pallet, do I need to thin? Does the water of the wet pallet thin it? The wet palette will thin the paint a bit. What you're really looking for is paint that flows, not necessarily to be thinned for thinning's sake. My main gripe with wet palettes is that it's hard to test flow on compared to a re-usable plastic palette. Don't rely on the wet palette to provide flow, though. Different pigments have different levels of dryness and pigment to medium ratios out of the pot. You'll still need to figure out the correct amount of water to add to each paint. Main benefit of the wet palette is extending the life of paint on the palette. I tend to only take out small amounts of paint at a time, so I don't find them worth the hassle.
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Oct 10, 2016 04:03
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My own personal measures are washes = thin the paint to the point that you can visibly see the color flow inwards in a stroke on the palette (because you want the paint to pool in recesses for a wash), normal painting = thin until the paint pools evenly with no chunks (because you want the paint have low enough viscosity to even itself out along the rest of the layer on the piece), and drybrushing = no thinning at all (you want minor amounts of paint to cling to the figure separately, and thinning will make them try to form a layer) You'll know if your paint is too thick for normal painting if you can see brush strokes on top of the paint in your palette. Beyond that its just looking at your model and making sure all the details from before the layer are still there. A wet palette will be useful if you're using expensive paints like Citadel, Vallejo, Gaia Notes, etc. But otherwise its not that neccessary. It will come in handy once you're ready to try mixing colors, though.
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Oct 10, 2016 04:28
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Also, related to the palette doing some work thinning paint for you, I've never had any luck with a wet palette preserving a pool of paint from one session to another. It always slowly thins and separates out to the point of being unusable, so probably don't bank on "saving" any paint for the next day or whatever and still just work in small portions like you normally would. There might be some magic level of saturation for the sponge to make it work but I've never managed to hit it. Addressing the actual question, I find myself not thinning stuff quite as much on a wet palette due to all of that too.
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Oct 10, 2016 04:44
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A good bit of advice for any new painter: learn to prime everything and you'll never have to worry about "ruining" a model. It's impressive how much protection a priming layer provides, dont be afraid to experiment with paints (you might end up being surprised how decently some 69c pile of Apple Barrel paints can be for filling in missing colors in your rack), and feel secure in the fact that you'll be able to strip your model and do a better job later when you improve.
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Oct 10, 2016 05:10
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I've been using a wet palette for a while, i mostly use citadel paints and scoup what i need onto the palette and then add lahriman medium. I like to paint with a consistency close to milk. multiple coats of paint achieve a solid colour and provide a much smoother look than a single thick coat so don't be disheartened if your thinned paint doesn't look outstanding first pass. With a wet palette honestly it just takes a little bit of practice to get that feel, you'll pick it up, I also find that rather than keeping paint for other sessions it simply extends my current session, though i have used some the day after. I tried the plastic palettes but I paint slowly so I found the paint dried very quickly. Good priming is essential, I use a flat grey myself due to terrible eyesight and an inability to see detail in black. melonfish fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 06:15
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mango sentinel posted:I'm having a loving hard time finding some Krylon black or white primer. What are some other recommended brands? I use Tamiya fine surface primer. I really like it because the low pressure can and fine paint make it very forgiving to use for hock handed morons like myself. Heads up though, it only comes in a light gray. Since I started using it I have found it obviated the need for either black or white primers, and now I just use it on everything.
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Oct 10, 2016 07:02
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For what it's worth, Tamiya Fine Grey (what DumbparameciuM linked) is often considered the best spray primer in the scale modelling world. Speaking of, would people find it useful if I added a list of the "best" spray primers/paints/varnishes to my paint list? I've avoided it so far because sprays seem really controversial (i.e. a particular brand fucks up on someone once and they hate that spray with a passion, even though most brands are somewhat finicky), but maybe there's some merit to trying to list people's favorites. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 07:58
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Ooh primer chat, always worth mentioning for UK goons that Halfords grey and white primers are the best and most cost effective primers you can buy. Their matte black spray is also very good as a primer despite not being sold as one.
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Oct 10, 2016 08:15
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ijyt posted:Ooh primer chat, always worth mentioning for UK goons that Halfords grey and white primers are the best and most cost effective primers you can buy. Their matte black spray is also very good as a primer despite not being sold as one. I was about to say exactly the same! The flat grey is my goto, it's smooth as a cylon's backside and as thin as teresa may's pretense of authority. Haven't tried the white but the matt black is also fantastic.
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Oct 10, 2016 08:29
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Generally speaking, grey primers are the best in terms of smoothness; black is usually pretty decent; white is mediocre-to-awful.
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Oct 10, 2016 08:43
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DumbparameciuM posted:Heads up though, it only comes in a light gray.  
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Oct 10, 2016 09:28
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Foolster41 posted:Finished some more painting today. All of these are reaper figures, but I'm going to use them for the Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. I think your gobbos would be improved by a quick ink wash thing. Get the Army Painter Strong Tone I think it's called, the dark brown one, and just cover them in it. Moria Goblins can't really look too dirty anyway!
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Oct 10, 2016 11:02
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Apparently you could get it in pink at one stage too? Everything but the light grey is discontinued on their website at the moment, if you can still buy it places in different colours that's great
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Oct 10, 2016 12:35
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Halfords matt black is what I was using up until I got an airbrush. It's good stuff.
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Oct 10, 2016 13:24
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Hopping on the primer discussion I've been using Badger's STYNLREZ grey airbrush primer for a while now and it's been smooth sailing. The only complaint I have about it is that you have to thin it just a little bit before spraying it , though that's my MO with most airbrush paints
The Sisko fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 19:24
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DumbparameciuM posted:Apparently you could get it in pink at one stage too? Everything but the light grey is discontinued on their website at the moment, if you can still buy it places in different colours that's great That can's a few years old (but still good) so it's possible they've discontinued white. Shame, it's a great primer. If the grey is as good, it'd be well worth it.
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Oct 10, 2016 19:34
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The Sisko posted:Hopping on the primer discussion I've been using Badger's STYNLREZ grey airbrush primer for a while now and it's been smooth sailing. The only complaint I have about it is that you have to thin it just a little bit before spraying it , though that's my MO with most airbrush paints I've gotten great results from the Badger primer. I was using Vallejo primer for a while, but it would flake off metal miniatures quite easily - I don't have that problem with the Badger primer.
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Oct 10, 2016 19:51
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Ophelia Crew is finally finished! I took some gremlour (glamlin?) shots in the garden today to celebrate.        the Lenny I got shipped was missing half of a pig, which supposedly is going to be shipped off to me today. Once he's finished that'll be a solid 50 pt crew (and an extra pig or two for summoning triggers). Then I just need to find somebody nearby to play some games! soon, everything will burn
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Oct 10, 2016 22:05
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Hey all, I'm starting to paint up a new army which is going to be preeminently metallic, convergence of cyriss. Anyone have any good tutorials or articles on painting up metallics that's good to use with an airbursh & brush?
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Oct 10, 2016 22:40
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I want to help smooth out the transitions on some flesh highlights, can I simply make a glaze using the base flesh colour and lahmian medium? Or is there a better way?
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Oct 10, 2016 22:46
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ijyt posted:I want to help smooth out the transitions on some flesh highlights, can I simply make a glaze using the base flesh colour and lahmian medium? Or is there a better way? Glazing is a great way to get there, yes.
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Oct 10, 2016 22:53
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For undercoat chat, both of these are great, Airbrush required.
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Oct 10, 2016 22:57
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Yeast posted:Glazing is a great way to get there, yes. Am I right in regards to which colour to use though? Or should it be closer to my lightest shade layer?
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Oct 10, 2016 23:00
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ijyt posted:Am I right in regards to which colour to use though? Or should it be closer to my lightest shade layer? If you're transitioning between say the base and a highlight layer, grab both paints, get two tiny dots of both, 50-50, add medium to make the glaze, and gently go over. In my experience, having two, sometimes even three highlights above your base will allow you to reach that transition more easily than trying to mask it. You mention Lahmian medium so I'm guessing GW paints - have you seen the face painting guide in the new White Dwarf? It's actually good! edit: I did Yarrick's face here with several highlight layers, and a couple shades of brown. I find Skin tone is one of those areas where more time, more gradation between highlight layers will pay off. 
Yeast fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 23:05
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You want to glaze with a shade that matches the midpoint between the areas you're trying to smooth, generally. If it doesn't look right when you're done, you can tweak it up or down with subsequent glazes. It's just paint, go buck wild.
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Oct 10, 2016 23:06
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