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kastein posted:The wheels don't roll very well (no bearings, just cast iron wheel with a shaft through it) so lube them a bit with some wd40 or something. Use ATF or tool oil or something that sticks around longer. We have a barrel dolly at work with lovely casters and someone was lubing it with penetrating lube every 2 weeks because it would "squeaksqueaksqueak" across the floor every time someone needed DEF. I put a few squirts of ATF in each caster like 6 months ago and haven't heard a squeak since. Actually most things that I would have used WD40 on before I now use ATF (or hydraulic/air tool oil if I don't want it to turn red). It penetrates just as well, and lasts way longer. EKDS5k fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Oct 8, 2016 |
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Oct 8, 2016 05:25
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Seems like you guys might know this: This is an oetiker clamp, as used in espresso machine to clamp a 10mm hose https://www.oetiker.com/en/Products It needs a special pair of pliers to open and close it. Do you think a jubilee clip will do the job instead? it needs to handle 15bar of pressure
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Oct 8, 2016 22:38
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Cat's claw pliers have always worked for me on those. But yes, a jubilee clip or fuel hose clip should work just fine. I assume what the hose fits onto has a barb on it?
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Oct 8, 2016 22:42
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InitialDave posted:Cat's claw pliers have always worked for me on those. Yes it has, so good news, thanks. How do you remove these clamps? (The one I took off was over a piece of crumbling hose, so there was enough slack to slide it off) The service manual shows it being slackened like this - can I just crush is between the jaws of needlenose pliers, so is something clever going on? 
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Oct 8, 2016 22:50
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spog posted:Seems like you guys might know this: a 10mm hose is too small to get a decent seal with a normal jubilee clip - you will struggle to get a 10mm jubilee to hold 15bar. You should use a fuel hose clip on it instead like these. If you do buy some from Halfords then read the numbers off the clips themselves not off the packet as I had to go there in an emergency a couple of weeks ago and all the hose clamp packets in my local shop are mislabelled and mispriced (you can get any size clamps you like in a 79p pack that is supposed to be something else!)
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Oct 8, 2016 23:03
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Needle nose pliers on the end of the clamp and the bumped out area will pop that right open. They'll close it right up without any damage or special too, too. My credentials: Have owned BMWs.
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Oct 8, 2016 23:11
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EVERYWHERE 
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spog posted:Yes it has, so good news, thanks.
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Oct 8, 2016 23:12
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Sorry, I can't get it to work. Nothing seems to pop. I've tried squeezing it with flat jawed pliers and only ended up distorting the big loop Do I put the screwdriver in the sticky-out bit from the side and twist it, to give it a little slack while I keep it twisted? (i.e. forcing the small omega shape apart?). If if release the twisting of the screwdriver, it should tighten back up? This entire clamp is the size of my smallest fingernail, so it's hard to see what is going on. EDIT: ahhh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfNhUEFjFZ4 That's pretty much the same as my machine. The hose is braided because of the pressure. It would be good to use fuel lines as a replacement, but they don't seem to have the right temp+pressure range to cope EDIT2: I didn't realise that they were single use clips and I was expecting some kind of locking and release mechanism (like a jubilee or spring clip). Also, that crimping doesn't look like it would be strong enough to withstand that pressure. spog fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Oct 8, 2016 |
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Oct 8, 2016 23:30
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Yes, that's the technique I mean. They're "single use" in the sense that they're not meant to be a serviceable thing, and are pretty cheap. You can often reuse them if you're careful, but unless it's an emergency, I view it as a "why bother?" situation.
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Oct 9, 2016 00:14
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I've used side cutters to crimp those kind of clamps before. It worked pretty well, just have to be careful with it.
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Oct 9, 2016 00:38
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spog posted:Also, that crimping doesn't look like it would be strong enough to withstand that pressure. I don't think the pressure inside the hose correlates very strongly with tangential force on that clip. Since the clip is over some kind of hose barb fitting or something, there isn't really any pressurized fluid directly inside where the clip is, and the hose itself shouldn't flex very much (if at all) from the pressure anyway. That clip is just there to prevent the hose from coming off (by clamping down on the fitting), but at 15 bar, the force that just wants to blow the hose right off would be in the neighbourhood of 50N (~10 poundsies). In any case, those fuel hose clips should do the job nicely. Whenever I encounter those kinds of clips in various cars (usually on fuel/coolant/heater hoses or CV boots) I just take them off at the joint with cutters or bend them open with pliers, and almost always replace them with jubilee clips or those fuel hose clips. They seem very much like a one-time deal and not like they are meant to be opened and closed. I do have some special pliers to crimp/tighten them (some CV replacement boot came with them which was a good excuse to buy the tool) but I found them difficult to tighten down properly and I think I went with a jubilee clip as usual when I had uselessly wasted the clips that came with the boot.
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Oct 9, 2016 14:43
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The only time I even try to reuse those is if I don't have a replacement and all it's holding on is a grease boot. If it's under pressure don't risk it, you won't like the result. I think I actually have the crimpers for installing those somewhere, but not sure.
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Oct 9, 2016 18:08
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You absolutely have to use impact sockets with an impact wrench, right? I just spent a bunch of money on one and I am not super keen to spend another $60 just to be able to use it
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Oct 11, 2016 22:32
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You dont have to, but you really, really should. Also if you live stateside harbor freight sells inexpensive impact sets.
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Oct 11, 2016 22:51
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There are impact sets with the most popular sizes for like $8 with coupon at HF. It's really not worth busting your nice sockets, even with a replacement warranty and good eye protection.
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Oct 11, 2016 22:59
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The Door Frame posted:You absolutely have to use impact sockets with an impact wrench, right? I just spent a bunch of money on one and I am not super keen to spend another $60 just to be able to use it Some people say that normal sockets are likely to explode/shatter if they let go when you are using them on an impact. I'm not sure if they will - but they definitely will wear out quicker and the chance of breaking them is much higher. I bought a cheap set of impact sockets.
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Oct 12, 2016 00:17
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The Door Frame posted:You absolutely have to use impact sockets with an impact wrench, right? I just spent a bunch of money on one and I am not super keen to spend another $60 just to be able to use it Now that I have the much nastier Milwaukee battery impact and a big 900ft/lb IR, I use impact sockets for those almost exclusively. If it's a 3/8" impact, normal chrome sockets are totally fine (in my lovely opinion at least).
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Oct 12, 2016 01:13
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Hypnolobster posted:If you get Harbor Freight impact sockets, get the Pittsburgh Pro sockets, not the regular Pittsburgh. That said, I've been using regular chrome sockets in a ~400ish ft/lb classic IR impact for about a decade without a problem. All older USA made Craftsman sockets. If it's a 3/8" impact, normal chrome sockets are totally fine (in my lovely opinion at least). Ok, that's about what I had thought. I've only got a piddly little 300 ft/lbs battery operated one, so I'll just throw on my 6" chromoly extension until I can get a matching set of impact sockets. I am an insane person and all of my ratchet/socket parts need to match
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Oct 12, 2016 03:03
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The Door Frame posted:Ok, that's about what I had thought. I've only got a piddly little 300 ft/lbs battery operated one, so I'll just throw on my 6" chromoly extension until I can get a matching set of impact sockets. I am an insane person and all of my ratchet/socket parts need to match I have no problem putting a regular socket on an impact sometimes but you'll definitely twist your extensions.
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Oct 12, 2016 05:01
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I have the Tekton 1/2inch impact extensions from Amazon, they work out incredibly for only $13. Also have the deep and normal Tekton impact socket sets, not quite as cheap obviously but they have also worked great for me. Using all of this with the Milwaukee M18 Impact and never had an issue, not sure about some of the higher powered air impacts.
100% Dundee fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 06:54
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100% Dundee posted:I have the Tekton 1/2inch impact extensions from Amazon, they work out incredibly for only $13. Also have the deep and normal Tekton impact socket sets, not quite as cheap obviously but they have also worked great for me. Using all of this with the Milwaukee M18 Impact and never had an issue, not sure about some of the higher powered air impacts. Tekton is good poo poo and has great warranty service. Broke a micro driver out of a set and had an ENTIRE NEW SET at my door in a couple days. I have a bunch of their impact poo poo too, A+ would buy again
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Oct 12, 2016 07:04
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rally posted:I have no problem putting a regular socket on an impact sometimes but you'll definitely twist your extensions. I have been told, anecdotally, that chrome sockets don't transmit impact as well as impact sockets, and so in addition to the safety hazard you're also reducing the effectiveness of the impact gun. And several manufacturers (IR, Snap-on) warn that using chrome sockets can also damage or destroy the anvil in the gun itself, which probably will cost a hell of a lot more to replace than just buying cheap impacts from the get go. I've given more than one guy an earful of poo poo because he borrowed my (very expensive) electric impact and then put his own chrome socket on it. Like, you already borrowed the gun, borrow the right socket, too! ...I don't think I'm going to lend power tools out anymore.
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Oct 12, 2016 07:22
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Tekton is good poo poo and has great warranty service. Broke a micro driver out of a set and had an ENTIRE NEW SET at my door in a couple days. I have a bunch of their impact poo poo too, A+ would buy again Haven't had to warranty anything from them, but the price and quality is right. I read somewhere that some of their stuff is being made in the US, too, if you care about that sort of thing.
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Oct 12, 2016 07:24
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Tekton is good poo poo and has great warranty service. Broke a micro driver out of a set and had an ENTIRE NEW SET at my door in a couple days. I have a bunch of their impact poo poo too, A+ would buy again Another huge bonus of the Tekton stuff from Amazon is that alot of it qualifies for the free 1 day shipping from Prime. Really sucks when you're halfway through a job and either don't have a tool or break something. I've ordered numerous things from them and had it show up the next afternoon. Of course this is going to depend on where you live/if you have prime, but its a real nice bonus!
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Oct 12, 2016 08:13
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My 1985 mr2 has been sitting for a while outside and has some surface rust. Is an angle grinder with a wire wheel + POR 15 still the recommended solution? I kinda want to take it to the local ice races, so having some resistance to salt would be a plus.
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Oct 12, 2016 15:38
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rally posted:I have no problem putting a regular socket on an impact sometimes but you'll definitely twist your extensions. Isn't chromoly for impact wrenches? I bought two 1/2" drive chromoly impact extensions back when I was doing my timing belt because that's all the store had that would fit on my breaker bars and I thought that I could use them on an actual impact gun
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Oct 12, 2016 17:56
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TWSS posted:My 1985 mr2 has been sitting for a while outside and has some surface rust. Is an angle grinder with a wire wheel + POR 15 still the recommended solution? I kinda want to take it to the local ice races, so having some resistance to salt would be a plus. Cover with wax oil or Fluid Film for further prevention.
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Oct 12, 2016 22:49
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TWSS posted:My 1985 mr2 has been sitting for a while outside and has some surface rust. Is an angle grinder with a wire wheel + POR 15 still the recommended solution? I kinda want to take it to the local ice races, so having some resistance to salt would be a plus. If it's just surface rust, just POR 15 is great. Topcoat it if you care.
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Oct 15, 2016 19:05
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There's a recall on a bunch of HF folding trailers. Surprisingly it's just for insufficient license plate lighting, not wheels falling off on the highway. Hey, free taillight kit to replace the ones that are all bashed in and taped together on my trailer.
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Oct 16, 2016 18:45
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Isn't "The bit that's lumps of metal is fine, but the electrics are terrible" the standard comment people make about HF stuff?
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Oct 16, 2016 19:18
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InitialDave posted:Isn't "The bit that's lumps of metal is fine, but the electrics are terrible" the standard comment people make about HF stuff? More like the lumps of metal are... fine, they haven't nearly killed me specifically.
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Oct 17, 2016 00:54
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Lumps of metal with connecting joints are also questionable. Any pliers I've ever gotten there broke upon first use.
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Oct 17, 2016 01:01
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sharkytm posted:If it's just surface rust, just POR 15 is great. Topcoat it if you care. Topcoat if it will see direct sunlight. UV light breaks down POR 15.
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Oct 17, 2016 01:22
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rally posted:Lumps of metal with connecting joints are also questionable. Any pliers I've ever gotten there broke upon first use. Yes, HF pliers/cutters of any kind seem to be made of cheese. Admittedly hard cheese, but still.
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Oct 17, 2016 03:53
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I've got a ton of the small orange handle pliers. They're so cheap and soft it's easy to grind and file them to whatever shape you need for a job. These are modified for making chainmail. 
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Oct 17, 2016 05:39
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TotalLossBrain posted:Yes, HF pliers/cutters of any kind seem to be made of cheese. Admittedly hard cheese, but still. They have a pair of dikes that are very long and work well for cutting most things. But beware because when I was looking at mine four other pairs had very messed up tips. Also there pliers are so cheap and soft. So grinding to customization is easy.
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Oct 17, 2016 14:50
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clam ache posted:They have a pair of dikes that are very long and work well for cutting most things. But beware because when I was looking at mine four other pairs had very messed up tips. Also there pliers are so cheap and soft. So grinding to customization is easy. The long ones are a clunky, less durable copy of the snapon 312cp or equivalent. I've got a pair of those that I found under the hood of a car at the junkyard... have gotten 4 years of service out of them so far, they're getting pretty floppy in the joint though because I abuse the hell out of them. Gonna see if I can find a truck nearby to warranty them sometime.
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Oct 17, 2016 15:00
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Just ordered the Makita DTW281 impact along with charger, case and 2x5Ah batteries. Very stoked!
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Oct 17, 2016 15:40
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oxbrain posted:I've got a ton of the small orange handle pliers. They're so cheap and soft it's easy to grind and file them to whatever shape you need for a job. These are modified for making chainmail. You don’t use parallel‐action pliers for that?
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Oct 17, 2016 16:44
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Platystemon posted:You don’t use parallel‐action pliers for that? You probably could, but those are expensive and these are cheap.
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Oct 17, 2016 17:49
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