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NoDoorway posted:Just noticed this bolt is missing on my Street twin. I'm assuming vibrated loose at some point. No oil or anything seems to be leaking, is there likely to have been damage caused by riding without it? I've ordered a replacement. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:That looks like something that would hold oil to me. What's underneath it? Sagebrush posted:Might be some kind of a clutch adjustment access port? The parts list just says "plug" 
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Oct 10, 2016 07:40
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IuniusBrutus posted:I have a Ninja 300, and I've been kicking around the idea of getting something a bit bigger. I've decided I want a supermoto of some sort, but since I've gotten enough of a pay bump to be able to afford two motorcycles, combined with the fact that I actually really like this bike, I think I'm going to keep it around as a dedicated track bike. i don't mean to sound like one of those resale value freaks but you should take into account that with a ninja 300, any mods you put on will either diminish or not affect resale value significantly because people buying a 300 are looking for a cheap starter. if you don't give a gently caress then consider upgrading your lovely stock brakes, it'll change you.
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Oct 10, 2016 10:51
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Verge posted:i don't mean to sound like one of those resale value freaks but you should take into account that with a ninja 300, any mods you put on will either diminish or not affect resale value significantly because people buying a 300 are looking for a cheap starter. if you don't give a gently caress then consider upgrading your lovely stock brakes, it'll change you. This is true of the vast majority of bikes and mods. Maybe a full rally upgrade on a 690? Or some of the baja stuff XR650Rs, but otherwise I'm having a hard time thinking of anything where you can expect to recoup more than a tiny fraction of what you spend on mods. I think your best option if you're concerned about resale is to just keep the OEM parts and sell the bike and mods separately.
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Oct 10, 2016 15:05
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Verge posted:i don't mean to sound like one of those resale value freaks but you should take into account that with a ninja 300, any mods you put on will either diminish or not affect resale value significantly because people buying a 300 are looking for a cheap starter. if you don't give a gently caress then consider upgrading your lovely stock brakes, it'll change you. Yeah, honestly with a 300, if you feel like you've wrung out everything you can, new brake pads are a cheap and awesome way to improve the ride. I've added convex mirrors to mine (the little ones) to increase visibility, heated grips, and shorty levers. I switched to good brake pads and it was awesome. Better tires, too. But for the most part, it's stock. The chain and sprockets were replaced last year, but they're the same ratio/size, just a better version (and a swanky gold chain because why not).
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Oct 10, 2016 15:58
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If I was tracking a 300, I think the first thing I would look at besides the usual track things (safety wire/taping/removing glass) are brakes and suspension for sure. Oh, and tires, because the stock tires are total garbage. I think you can run a slightly wider rear than stock on a stock wheel.
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Oct 10, 2016 18:28
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Lynza posted:Yeah, honestly with a 300, if you feel like you've wrung out everything you can, new brake pads are a cheap and awesome way to improve the ride. heated grips are definitely one of those mods that you can expect a good return on investment I'd think. same with a good luggage set up. performance mods scare some people into thinking you've abused it.
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Oct 10, 2016 18:32
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IuniusBrutus posted:I have a Ninja 300, and I've been kicking around the idea of getting something a bit bigger. I've decided I want a supermoto of some sort, but since I've gotten enough of a pay bump to be able to afford two motorcycles, combined with the fact that I actually really like this bike, I think I'm going to keep it around as a dedicated track bike. http://www.mcnews.com.au/fx-300-ninja-cup-rules/ You don't have to follow them if you aren't racing in a spec series but it might be a good starting point. I'd start with sintered brake pads, braided lines, and better tires.
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Oct 10, 2016 18:45
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clutchpuck posted:http://www.mcnews.com.au/fx-300-ninja-cup-rules/ A cacophony of farts! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHV3wtFH4JA
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Oct 10, 2016 19:06
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Ninja Cup is a great name for a race series, though
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Oct 10, 2016 19:13
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If I was financially able I would buy a lovely little bike, quit work and just race an entire season in a newbie series like that. It looks so fun.
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Oct 10, 2016 19:17
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Renaissance Robot posted:The parts list just says "plug" Yeah I think it's an access port of some kind. I've ordered proper part, but might pick up a bolt that'll fit in meantime for ugly fix. Blue locktite should do the job yeah? It's totally clean, no oil showing at all.
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Oct 10, 2016 23:29
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I added some signal lights to my 08 sv650. It was used and had garbage side markers and an integrated taillight I dont particularly like. I replaced the side markers with much brighter lights, spliced in the parking lights with LED's as signals as well, and added a flasher relay. It all worked fine. I wasn't sure what to do with the rear so I just added two LED turn signal strips (I know...) and spliced them into the integrated taillight wiring. It worked fine, better than expected, but now my left turn signal indicator stays on faintly between blinks.  However when I turn on the hazards the glow goes away and it works as expected. It seems to me everything actually functions correctly except the indicator on the dash. I haven't had time to mess with it but I'm pretty sure just unplugged the LED strips will reverse this.  Another bad gif of all the lights edit: I forgot to ask the actual question: Should I be concerned? penus penus penus fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Oct 11, 2016 |
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Oct 11, 2016 01:07
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Flashers and turn signals work off of electrical draw in the line. LEDs have MUCH less draw than incandescent bulbs, so, the flashers will act strange if you change them to LEDs and they were originally incandescent. Try getting one of those electronic flashers, like this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/ Make sure the plug will match up.
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Oct 12, 2016 01:42
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If I'm getting close to an oil change at the end of the season, is it generally better to change the oil before you stow the bike away for winter, or right before you start riding again in the spring? I've heard of used oil bring slightly caustic by picking up combustion byproducts, but also that you should change it after it's been sitting around, even on a fresh oil change.
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Oct 12, 2016 12:08
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OSU_Matthew posted:If I'm getting close to an oil change at the end of the season, is it generally better to change the oil before you stow the bike away for winter, or right before you start riding again in the spring? The only real reason to change it after it's been sitting a while is if you're in an area with frequent freeze/thaw cycles - that'd be enough to dump a load of condensed water on top of it and if you start it up it'll turn your oil into mayonnaise. It'll boil off if you take it for a nice long ride but people get paranoid about water in the engine buggering things up. Also unless you're on an ancient oil-boiler or you've got sufficiently bad rings that your oil comes out like Alien blood I wouldn't worry too much about letting the old oil sit over the winter. So basically change your oil whenever feels best for you (or move to a civilised part of the world where you can ride year round, of course)
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Oct 12, 2016 12:22
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My Ninja500R died yesterday. The rider said it made a clunk noise on downshift and stopped running. The starter is no longer engaging (edit: spins freely). Motor isn't seized, I'm able to push it and turn the engine over. Haven't popped the side cover yet, but does anyone have a clue what I'm in for here?
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 15:42
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The clunk noise sounds like what you hear when the bike stalls. Sure the electrics or cutoff switches didn't get activated? Like the kickstand switch got tripped as they changed gears, or left neutral at a light, and the bike freaked out thinking the kickstand was suddenly down?
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Oct 12, 2016 15:50
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He tells me the kickstand switch has been on the fritz as of late however it looks to me like the springs aren't locking it in the fully stowed position anymore so it might not even be a dead switch. The starter not turning the motor has me thinking that there's definitely mechanical fault of some sort. Before when I've tried to start when the stand switch would prevent it the starter wouldn't run at all. As it is now the starter is just freewheeling (sorry if I was unclear).
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Oct 12, 2016 15:59
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If the starter is spinning but not engaging the starter clutch is not working correctly.
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Oct 12, 2016 17:22
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can you push start it? Put it in 2nd and get a good running start and hop on and pop the clutch?
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Oct 12, 2016 17:24
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EX250 Type R posted:can you push start it? Put it in 2nd and get a good running start and hop on and pop the clutch? Haven't tried it yet; I'm currently playing that game with the SV650 (but I just got the arrival notification for my new battery!) and doing it any more than absolutely necessary at this moment makes me think of setting things on fire and fellating firearms. I'm getting really fuckin' good at it, though. Good full-bore run, step directly on to the left side peg, shift and pop and she fires right up. Coincidentally this also wakes up all my neighbors when I have to go in to the office at 3AM and there was a note on my door yesterday morning about it  I might give it a go or two when I get back to the house but I'm intensely curious about what kind of fuckery is behind the sidecover. Gorson posted:If the starter is spinning but not engaging the starter clutch is not working correctly. ...motorcycle starters have CLUTCHES?  The mind boggles. I need to take apart a motorcycle engine; just when I thought I had IC engines somewhat figured out I go and throw motorcycles into the mix and toss my brain in a circle (Disclaimer: I am vaguely aware of Ducati's Desmo valves and that's about as well acquainted as I ever want to be with it).
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Oct 12, 2016 18:45
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Beach Bum posted:...motorcycle starters have CLUTCHES? They're called a sprag dammit  It's a one-way overrunning clutch like you'd find in an auto trans and it's usually between the flywheel and what you would think of as the ring gear. The starter is permanently meshed so if it spins freely the sprag is buggered. That explains why the bike won't start but it doesn't explain what made the whole bike die in the first place.
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Oct 12, 2016 18:55
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Beach Bum posted:..motorcycle starters have CLUTCHES? Desmodromic valves are not a good representation of the things you'll find in most motorcycle engines. They're a great example of the kinds of design choices you'll come across in an Italian bike, though. In general, take a car engine and subtract several cylinders and twenty years and you'll get the motorcycle equivalent. Everything inside is mostly the same, just smaller. (And sometimes there are some neat little weight- and space-saving tricks like having the alternator rotor serve double-duty as a flywheel).
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Oct 12, 2016 21:37
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Yeah fair warning, being aware of anything Ducati does, does not guarantee that any other manufacturer (Harley maybe?) does it.
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Oct 13, 2016 00:20
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This is the part where I say desmodromic valves aren't that terrible and then everyone else comes back saying I have stockholm syndrome.
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Oct 13, 2016 00:36
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Rover v8s arent terrible either, but I digress....
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Oct 13, 2016 00:37
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No this is the part where we say it's added complexity for Italian reasons
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Oct 13, 2016 01:08
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It's really not any harder to shim, and there is less to shim in the first place. You can't float the valves in an overrev situation with them also so...
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Oct 13, 2016 01:32
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Let me count the number of times in my life I've overrevved an engine -
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Oct 13, 2016 02:45
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Also let me count the number of bikes sold today without a rev limiter -
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Oct 13, 2016 03:31
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Sagebrush posted:Let me count the number of times in my life I've overrevved an engine Jim Silly-Balls posted:Also let me count the number of bikes sold today without a rev limiter Missing the point both of you. It's far simpler to just count the number of brands with desmo valves on sale today and draw conclusions.
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Oct 13, 2016 03:37
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Also let me count the number of bikes sold today without a rev limiter Let me count the number of engines whose rev limiter stops a mechanical overrev - I guess I'm just not seeing the reason to be like 'omg trash' in reference to desmo valves. They are not a big deal to maintain and it doesn't change my life by them existing or not existing... additionally, they are a German design, not Italian BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Oct 13, 2016 |
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Oct 13, 2016 03:51
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BlackMK4 posted:Let me count the number of engines whose rev limiter stops a mechanical overrev They aren't trash, they're just don't really need to exist (on a road bike, natch). I feel like for any given bike there's a minimum level of complexity demanded by the design and certain brands, ducati among them, have a major boner for going far above and beyond that level for no good reason at all. BMW are far worse though.
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Oct 13, 2016 07:11
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Slavvy posted:They aren't trash, they're just don't really need to exist (on a road bike, natch). I feel like for any given bike there's a minimum level of complexity demanded by the design and certain brands, ducati among them, have a major boner for going far above and beyond that level for no good reason at all. Yeah, it makes no sense at all that they put them on anything these days given valve springs are now pretty much a done deal technology wise, let alone on low-tuned air-cooled bikes like the Scrambler. It's purely A Brand Thing (c.f. "Desmodronically Yours").
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Oct 13, 2016 07:35
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Yeah I don't particularly hate Desmo valves either, they're just pointless. And just the desmo valves by themselves aren't bad, but it's a part of an overall larger design philosophy of "engineering for the sake of engineering", which, if you really are into engineering, runs completely counter to what constitutes good engineering on a package level. That and how many mechanical overrev failures are happening? A handful across all manufacturers maybe? And it's not like desmo valves let you rev the bike as far as you want. It just exposes you to the next level of failure from overrev, the crank. It's solving a problem that doesn't exist, or at best exists on such a small scale that it's not worth solving with a different design.
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Oct 13, 2016 17:52
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As I understand it, it doesn't raise the rev limit so much as increase the valve ramp. I.e. the valve can open faster to maximum, stay at max for longer, then rapidly close. A valve that closes by spring force only can risk float, increased cam wear from the stiffer spring or other issues, depending on how it was solved. But clearly other marks can reach and surpass Ducati hp numbers without them, which means the valve ramp isn't a bottleneck, which means it's a bit of a gimmick. But they don't want to change a thing that helps the image. Perhaps there's even an engineering study in a dusty drawer in a Porsche cellar that says a front engine would be faster.
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Oct 13, 2016 18:05
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Ola posted:But they don't want to change a thing that helps the image. Perhaps there's even an engineering study in a dusty drawer in a Porsche cellar that says a front engine would be faster. Not front engine, but most knowledgeable people (including Porsche themselves) know the Cayman (mid engine design) is a far superior platform to the 911, which is why they keep putting in slightly smaller, slightly less powerful engines in it when it could easily have a 911 Turbo's engine and be a faster car. But Porsche has to have the 911 as the fastest car they sell, so they deliberately down-power the Cayman so it won't quite be as fast as the 911, purely for marketing reasons, when really what the enthusiasts want is a Cayman with the same engine choices as the 911 range.
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Oct 13, 2016 18:21
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Ola posted:As I understand it, it doesn't raise the rev limit so much as increase the valve ramp. I.e. the valve can open faster to maximum, stay at max for longer, then rapidly close. A valve that closes by spring force only can risk float, increased cam wear from the stiffer spring or other issues, depending on how it was solved. But clearly other marks can reach and surpass Ducati hp numbers without them, which means the valve ramp isn't a bottleneck, which means it's a bit of a gimmick. Other brands solved this by using ever-smaller bucket tappets but now the trend is moving toward finger followers (employed by kawasaki for a long goddamn time on a lot of models) as they let you have an even steeper cam profile and don't suck up as much energy. This only really matters on literbikes and 600's for homologation/racing purposes anyway. Also they gave up on cambelts with the panigale in the search for more power so with enough incentive any bullshit tradition can be ditched. See also: liquid cooled 4 valve harleys.
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Oct 13, 2016 19:08
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They in fact ARE harder to shim than non-desmo. Any modern multi cyl DOHC is going to be a pain though. And there are plenty of other things that can break when you over-rev besides valves floating.
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Oct 13, 2016 20:01
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HotCanadianChick posted:Not front engine, but most knowledgeable people (including Porsche themselves) know the Cayman (mid engine design) is a far superior platform to the 911, which is why they keep putting in slightly smaller, slightly less powerful engines in it when it could easily have a 911 Turbo's engine and be a faster car. But Porsche has to have the 911 as the fastest car they sell, so they deliberately down-power the Cayman so it won't quite be as fast as the 911, purely for marketing reasons, when really what the enthusiasts want is a Cayman with the same engine choices as the 911 range. Tires, too. They won't put the widest, stickiest rubber on even the highest-end models of the Cayman because then it would be faster around a track than a 911 Turbo. Porsche stubbornly sticking to the rear-engine platform has always seemed to me like that Simpsons episode where they go to Australia and they have the toilet with the giant series of pumps and hoses to make it flush in the correct "American" direction.
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Oct 13, 2016 20:31
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