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Delivery McGee posted:Got a new multimeter today (old $5 Harbor Freight special crapped out; I got the fancy HF one this time As for the COP wires running to the ECU/PCM, the PCM is by the brake pedal (I think). If your new HF meter has long enough wires, you should be able to reach the COP wire and the PCM. Injector wire should be similar. This guy does it on a 4 banger, but he also has fancy testing lights: https://youtu.be/ho3Kyps2i34
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Jun 11, 2016 03:09
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), so I plan to at least check continuity in the morning (when it's not so fuckin' hot). Where's the other end of the wires? Presumably at the ECU, but where is that?
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CharlieWhiskey posted:As for the COP wires running to the ECU/PCM, the PCM is by the brake pedal (I think). If your new HF meter has long enough wires, you should be able to reach the COP wire and the PCM. Injector wire should be similar. Standard length, but I also picked up a 10-pack of 6" "test leads" with alligator clips on both ends and I have a good bit of wire laying around, so I can extend them. I don't suppose anybody has a pinout for the "distributor" end of the coil wires, since I'm assuming they're broken, I'd like to know which pin it should be, rather than checking 'em all. Also the meter has a frequency setting, so if the wires are good I can see if/how often it's firing! In related news, man, I wish I could find a cheap oscilloscope. Missed out on a free nice '70s one and a $50 ancient from-a-kit one several years ago, still kicking myself for not jumping on that Tektronix before it got thrown away.  Edit: If it is the wires, and I have to run new wires, I kinda want to install a switch to cut the spark and a pair of spark plugs in the tailpipes while I'm at it. It'd solve the "smelling of gas" problem, at least.  Re: the video going on about PCM problems being extremely unlikely, I have a tangentially-related funny story: My dad used to drive an '82 E-150 for work, and one day it crapped out with symptoms of a failed ignition module ('twas the old 5.0L with a distributor, IDK what the box did). I swapped in the spare I had for my '84 Jeep (I'd heard it might fail and replaced it as preventative maintenance since it was only $30), and she fired right up, and continued to chooch for five more years. AMC = "All Marques Combined" -- in '84 they had an in-house engine, generic Dana 44 and 35 (iirc) axles, Ford carb/solenoid/"computer"/AC compressor, Mopar transmission, and the keys were cut from GM blanks. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jun 11, 2016 |
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Jun 11, 2016 04:15
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Now my dads driver side power door lock stopped working. Went to a store, locked it, came back out and it no longer works. Its only the front driver side, using the key still unlocks it. We don't hear any sort of click or anything that tells us the actuator is trying to unlock, just silence. Theres a few videos on how to get the door panel off but its only for earlier models and its slightly different on our 09. Can't really find a good picture online, either. 
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Jun 12, 2016 20:25
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Never mind I got it popped off, was hoping something came unplugged but all seems fine. Should I just be replacing the actuator at this point?
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Jun 12, 2016 20:35
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Cage posted:Never mind I got it popped off, was hoping something came unplugged but all seems fine. Should I just be replacing the actuator at this point? Unplug the harness plug at the actuator, put a test light or DMM on it, and see if it's getting power when you tell it to unlock the door. If it is, it's probably the actuator, yeah. If it isn't, you gotta figure out why.
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Jun 12, 2016 20:38
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Guys, I'm embarking on a 3000 mile road trip in my '05 P71 in a few days. I'm not worried about anything in particular as I've gone over it pretty well lately, but I want to put together a tool kit just in case. Problem is I haven't had to do much on this car so I don't really know how to cover my bases without bringing a bunch of crap that won't do me any good. What sizes are common on this car? Anything oddball?
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Jul 7, 2016 04:54
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Hello again thread. Me and my dad we successful in changing out his blend door, and fixing his door locks. Have another problem that we never addressed though. Today he locked himself out of the car so I started looking into figuring out the electronic keypad door locks. Google says that there should be a white tag in the trunk with 5 digits, and there is but we've tried that before and it doesn't work. One thing I noticed today though is that the print date on the tag is 1/19/10, while his car is a 2009 model year. That doesn't make sense, right? When google says you can replace the module to get a new code, what part is this that is actually being replaced? The physical keypad that mounts on the door? Or is it a smaller module inside that door that has to be swapped? 09 grand marquis
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Jul 28, 2016 01:11
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Cage posted:Hello again thread. Me and my dad we successful in changing out his blend door, and fixing his door locks. Have another problem that we never addressed though. Today he locked himself out of the car so I started looking into figuring out the electronic keypad door locks. Google says that there should be a white tag in the trunk with 5 digits, and there is but we've tried that before and it doesn't work. One thing I noticed today though is that the print date on the tag is 1/19/10, while his car is a 2009 model year. That doesn't make sense, right? The white tag might also be jammed in the owners manual packet somewhere. When I bought mine, I checked for it (it wasn't there) and demanded the dealer obtain it for me. They might still do this for you for a fee. I assume the "module" is the whole ECU for the car, but I could be wrong.
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Jul 28, 2016 02:23
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Cage posted:Hello again thread. Me and my dad we successful in changing out his blend door, and fixing his door locks. Have another problem that we never addressed though. Today he locked himself out of the car so I started looking into figuring out the electronic keypad door locks. Google says that there should be a white tag in the trunk with 5 digits, and there is but we've tried that before and it doesn't work. One thing I noticed today though is that the print date on the tag is 1/19/10, while his car is a 2009 model year. That doesn't make sense, right? Have you tried to brute force it? I guess this is assuming that nothing bad happens (timeout, alarm, etc) on a bad code entry (or several).
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Jul 28, 2016 09:58
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Cage posted:Hello again thread. Me and my dad we successful in changing out his blend door, and fixing his door locks. Have another problem that we never addressed though. Today he locked himself out of the car so I started looking into figuring out the electronic keypad door locks. Google says that there should be a white tag in the trunk with 5 digits, and there is but we've tried that before and it doesn't work. One thing I noticed today though is that the print date on the tag is 1/19/10, while his car is a 2009 model year. That doesn't make sense, right? i have an '08 grand marquis- nothing in the owners manual about it? i reset mine when I bought mine used, but i had the current code for it at the time.
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Jul 28, 2016 10:54
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Raluek posted:Have you tried to brute force it? I guess this is assuming that nothing bad happens (timeout, alarm, etc) on a bad code entry (or several). Nostalgia4Butts posted:i have an '08 grand marquis- nothing in the owners manual about it? i reset mine when I bought mine used, but i had the current code for it at the time.
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Jul 28, 2016 13:12
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Well my transmission planetary gear set decided it was finished at 61k miles and grenaded itself. I barely made it to the dealer. Thanks to Ford Premium Care, got a brand new trans installed. Also fixed the problem where I only had air from the front vents. Floor/defrost didn't do anything anymore. They also did the steering shaft recall. $100 deductible. I read here that 4R75E (which are just beefed up 4R75W's) transmissions manufactured after late 2010 had very high planetary failure rates. Someone else with a 2011 LX on CrownVic.net had theirs poo poo out at 33k miles. Glad I had the extended warranty. Oh, and my touchscreen Pioneer radio was stolen from the car while the dealer had it. I'm convinced it was an inside job but whatever, they're replacing it.
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Sep 5, 2016 06:51
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Oops, replied to wrong thread.
The_Franz fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Sep 13, 2016 |
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Sep 13, 2016 16:05
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djhaloeight posted:Well my transmission planetary gear set decided it was finished at 61k miles and grenaded itself. I barely made it to the dealer. Thanks to Ford Premium Care, got a brand new trans installed. Also fixed the problem where I only had air from the front vents. Floor/defrost didn't do anything anymore. They also did the steering shaft recall. $100 deductible. I read here that 4R75E (which are just beefed up 4R75W's) transmissions manufactured after late 2010 had very high planetary failure rates. Someone else with a 2011 LX on CrownVic.net had theirs poo poo out at 33k miles. Glad I had the extended warranty. Oh, and my touchscreen Pioneer radio was stolen from the car while the dealer had it. I'm convinced it was an inside job but whatever, they're replacing it. Wow, I didn't know any Crown Vics had significant trans issues. Did they replace your exact radio?
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Sep 14, 2016 17:51
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Since the thread was bumped I thought I might just ask one more time. My dads 2009 grand marquis was bought used and he never got the key code for the door lock buttons. Google says the code should be on a white tag on the trunk, and there is a 5 digit code but it does not work. He was also told to check the door module located inside the drivers door but he took it apart and didn't see anything. The buttons do work since they're able to lock the door by hitting buttons 4/5 at the same time. Is there anywhere else the original factory code might be printed? I've googled but haven't come up with much other than the two locations we've looked already. I only ask again because the poor old man locked his keys in his car twice so far and had to have someone drive an extra set over. My temporary solution is to just buy another keyfob for $4 on ebay and attach it underneath the car somewhere but it would be much easier just to learn the key code.
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Sep 14, 2016 19:19
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Cage posted:Since the thread was bumped I thought I might just ask one more time. My dads 2009 grand marquis was bought used and he never got the key code for the door lock buttons. Google says the code should be on a white tag on the trunk, and there is a 5 digit code but it does not work. He was also told to check the door module located inside the drivers door but he took it apart and didn't see anything. The buttons do work since they're able to lock the door by hitting buttons 4/5 at the same time. Is there anywhere else the original factory code might be printed? I've googled but haven't come up with much other than the two locations we've looked already. Brute force it, should only take about 20 min or so.
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Sep 14, 2016 19:59
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I remember seeing the magic set of numbers somewhere, can you give me a hint as to what I should google to find it again?
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Sep 14, 2016 20:12
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Cage posted:I remember seeing the magic set of numbers somewhere, can you give me a hint as to what I should google to find it again? http://everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1520430
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Sep 14, 2016 20:13
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Cage posted:Since the thread was bumped I thought I might just ask one more time. My dads 2009 grand marquis was bought used and he never got the key code for the door lock buttons. Google says the code should be on a white tag on the trunk, and there is a 5 digit code but it does not work. He was also told to check the door module located inside the drivers door but he took it apart and didn't see anything. The buttons do work since they're able to lock the door by hitting buttons 4/5 at the same time. Is there anywhere else the original factory code might be printed? I've googled but haven't come up with much other than the two locations we've looked already. Did you check the manuals for any labels or anything? I don't know if there's any sort of VIN-based database that dealers can check, but it might be work making some phone calls.
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Sep 14, 2016 20:21
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Tunicate posted:It's a De Bruijn sequence, and there's one here: Boaz MacPhereson posted:Did you check the manuals for any labels or anything? I don't know if there's any sort of VIN-based database that dealers can check, but it might be work making some phone calls.
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Sep 14, 2016 20:32
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Cage posted:Thanks, didn't know there was a name for that type of sequence. Ill give it a try this weekend. I think the door lock module locks up for X minutes after Y failed attempts. Might slow down the brute force. If you've checked every nook and cranny in the footwells, under the hood, and in the trunk, it might be on the module itself inside the door, which would require removing the inside door panel.
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Sep 14, 2016 21:23
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I do remember reading about the key pad disabling itself after so many tries, I guess thats why I gave up on the method. Update: I had an old key fob lying around from my mustang. I was able to program it to his car and he threw it in the gas tank door in case he ever locks his keys in his car. Its not elegant but it works. Bonus: Its now programmed for both my mustang and the grand marquis, surprisingly. Hitting lock twice will make both cars beep if they're close enough.
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Sep 15, 2016 13:32
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My '98 Grand Marquis has this acceleration issue... Check engine light is on because the upstream driver's side oxygen sensor runs lean. I haven't replaced it because it seems loving impossible to reach when jacked up and I don't have access to a vehicle lift. So the car runs pretty rough at highway speed if the overdrive is enabled. I always turn it off now and it's okay for the most part. I don't know if this is a direct result of the lovely o2 sensor, but under heavy-ish acceleration (like using an on-ramp), it often happens that the check engine light starts flashing, there's a palpable loss of power, and if the AC is on, it stops blowing cold. And it only does this in bursts. After 30 seconds or so, the light will stop flashing and the car will run normally again...until the next time this happens. It's not every single time I accelerate like that, but pretty often. It has 101k miles. The spark plugs are fairly new and I have some coil packs of questionable quality on the way in hopes that it's a faulty coil pack issue, like a misfire or something, but otherwise, I dunno man.
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Sep 21, 2016 02:39
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Flashing check engine light means "whoa, gently caress, stop doing that, I'm dying here" and you should definitely not keep driving it like that. Generally, it means a misfire is occurring. This could be because the sensor is throwing the fuel trim off enough for it to miss pretty badly. You should definitely get that fixed before you drive it at high speed like that. If the sensor is reading lean, that means it's throwing the mixture richer than it should, so you're dumping a bunch of fuel into your exhaust that otherwise wouldn't be there, which is not good for your cat on that side. So if you keep that up, you might need to replace that too. I'm not sure how much cats are for these cars, but they're usually somewhere in the ballpark of a couple grand, so it's not to be taken lightly. If it was reading rich, I'd say it's causing the fuel trim to go lean until it detonates and pulls the poo poo out of timing, which could lead to long term mechanical issues (if it doesn't catch it in time), but yours is reading the other way I guess? Raluek fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Sep 24, 2016 |
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Sep 24, 2016 09:49
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Yeah, blinking is bad. Pull codes and see what's dying. Probably coil packs, at a guess.
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Sep 25, 2016 02:10
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Guys, I'm having an annoying issue with my 2009 p71. I'm going through lower suspension control arms like elmo through a cookie jar. It's on the rear passenger side. Every time, the rubber in the control arm becomes worn out, and it starts making squeaky sounds. Has anyone faced this issue? Do anyone know why it keep doing this, even after changing the rear lower control arms on BOTH SIDES? Thanks
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Oct 12, 2016 19:23
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geforce posted:Guys, I'm having an annoying issue with my 2009 p71. I'm going through lower suspension control arms like elmo through a cookie jar. Could rear camber cause the rubber to wear out prematurely?
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Oct 13, 2016 15:42
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Could rear camber cause the rubber to wear out prematurely? Good point. I thought the driving shaft/rear axle could be at a weird angle if supports were starting to wear out or something, but camber would be a more probable cause. I'll check with an alignment guy next week. Thanks for the tip.
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Oct 13, 2016 21:44
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I've got a sliding ashtray from an ex-RCMP Crown Vic in my basement. Anyone want it? Just pay shipping from Trenton, Ontario. If I don't reply to your reply I probably forgot I posted this, pm me
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Oct 14, 2016 12:08
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Could rear camber cause the rubber to wear out prematurely? Rear camber on a solid axle?
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Oct 14, 2016 18:36
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Darchangel posted:Rear camber on a solid axle? No sure what you mean. But I'm thinking; maybe I should have changed the upper control arm at the same time I changed the lower control arm?  I changed part #3 on both sides, but maybe I needed to change part #4 as well?
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Oct 16, 2016 14:51
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The only thing that comes to mind is if you're installing the arms with the rear end in full droop. If you tighten the bolts and then lower the car back into the ground the bushings will be twisted at ride height. E: also lube the bushings
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Oct 16, 2016 15:02
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MonkeyNutZ posted:The only thing that comes to mind is if you're installing the arms with the rear end in full droop. If you tighten the bolts and then lower the car back into the ground the bushings will be twisted at ride height. This is highly probable. My mechanic always work the car on the lift. I'm 100% sure he tightened the bolts before putting the car down. That'll explain it. Thanks man.
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Oct 16, 2016 15:54
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Wow, I didn't know any Crown Vics had significant trans issues. Did they replace your exact radio? They actually replaced the radio with a newer 2016 model Pioneer touchscreen. I'm happy.
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Oct 19, 2016 12:46
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djhaloeight posted:They actually replaced the radio with a newer 2016 model Pioneer touchscreen. I'm happy. Awesome. Do you have steering wheel radio controls? If so, do any work with your new Pioneer? I'm dragging my feet on replacing my stock radio because I love adjusting the volume without taking my hands off the wheel.
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Oct 20, 2016 22:32
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Awesome. Do you have steering wheel radio controls? If so, do any work with your new Pioneer? I'm dragging my feet on replacing my stock radio because I love adjusting the volume without taking my hands off the wheel. There's a series of plug-and-play (or close enough) steering wheel control adapters out there for fairly cheap. You need to use one to retain steering wheel controls in 99% of installs. Some of them even allow for additional functionality in the form of second long-press commands etc. The one I put in my big chrome Taurus was incredibly easy to install, so I imagine it wouldn't be too different for a Panther body. Crutchfield will show the way.
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Oct 23, 2016 20:28
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So an update: 2009 grand marquis ls. HVAC controls are all wonky, the main issue is that something glitches and it only creates 90 degree heat. If you turn the A/C on it will work for 10-15 seconds, and then just switch to full heat. The whole past winter we've had to drive with the windows down even with the fan on the lowest setting since it just shoots out air as hot as it can get. A few months ago he ripped his entire dash apart to replace the blend door actuator, it worked ok for about a day and then it started happening again. Just last week we bought a "refreshed" HVAC control unit where the seller supposedly opens it up and replaces certain failing components and swaps your old one out. This worked for a day, but he is having the same issue. When you run the diagnostic its either 024, 025 or 888 I believe. Sometimes the issue goes away for days or weeks at a time, but eventually it always comes back. I don't know what else to look at or replace.
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Nov 2, 2016 16:41
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Hmm, I think 024/025 are blend door codes. Was the blend door motor new or used?
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Nov 7, 2016 15:57
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It was a brand new dorman unit from rock auto. I was just driving around with him yesterday and it was super frustrating. After running through the diagnostic he got error code 025 like 3 times. Each time after resetting it he turns the A/C on to test it. First time it worked for 2 seconds and then switched to full heat. Second time it lasted about 5 seconds, third time was the same. Fourth time he didn't get 025 and we were able to use A/C for the rest of the day. I emailed the ebay seller of the HVAC controls and he said that if the blend door was the problem it has to be replaced with motorcraft only. Im seeing now that we bought a dorman unit. I really hope we don't have to replace that unit again. :/ Ebay seller posted:Chain of components involved on "temperature settings":
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Nov 7, 2016 16:05
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Dang, I didn't think the manufacturer would matter in this case. I can now smell burning plastic in my cabin. I'm guessing blower motor or heater core. I can always smell it on A/C or Heat. Not as much on "Vent". My passengers say they can't even smell it, but I know it's there. Luckily cracking a window disappates the smell instantly. Anyone experience a burning smell through HVAC?
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Nov 7, 2016 16:17
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