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I need to find a 5th spot to put a jack on my 2008 987 so that I can get a stand under each of the four "factory" points and take the wheels off. My goal is to put the jack under the car just long enough to get it up on stands under the pre-approved spots. Any suggestions? Red circles on the images would be helpful, since if you say "the wheel strut" I'll not have the foggiest what you're referring to. 
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Oct 13, 2016 23:05
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:99 explorer guy, the ecu runs in open loop for the first few minutes, and shouldn't be rough despite coolant temperature. This might vary a bit on brand, but when my LS1 had a wonky coolant temperature sensor (wiring issue), cold starts were a mess because it was going extreme overkill on the cold start enrichment.
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Oct 13, 2016 23:50
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canyoneer posted:OK, so I'm changing out the spark plugs and coil packs on my 2008 Honda Fit Sport. I'm replacing them with NGK Laser Iridium plugs that are the same as the OEM plugs. Coil packs will be the Hitachi ones that are also the same as OEM boots. I used to do 'hand tight plus 1/4 turn' until I chewed up my threads and my plugs belched out (bad noise), forcing me to timesert new thread inserts in. Once I bought a torque wrench, I found out that 11 ft-lbs on my plugs was finger-tight plus 1/32nd turn. Spending money on a torque wrench now will save money on head replacement/ repair later.
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Oct 14, 2016 03:16
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Thanks for the replies. I replaced the plugs and coil packs completely without issue, and fully in spec with torque wrench values. Quoting myself from earlier. canyoneer posted:2008 Honda Fit Sport, Automatic. 120k miles or so. After a quick test drive, I'm afraid my problem persists. I drove a bit and had the same problem. So then I did the idle learn procedure, from here. http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-diy-repair-maintenance/7729-ecm-pcm-idle-learn-procedure.html Car's warm enough now that I definitely wouldn't be able to replicate my issue anyway. We'll see tomorrow morning if the problem comes up again from a cold start. Man I hope not, I just want my car to work again like normal 
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Oct 14, 2016 06:19
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If you have access to a code reader that can also show live data, you may want to check to see how hot/cold the ECU thinks the engine is.
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Oct 14, 2016 08:37
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Do you have the same problem as this guy? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIsG_8TVokw
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Oct 14, 2016 16:35
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I need to find a 5th spot to put a jack on my 2008 987 so that I can get a stand under each of the four "factory" points and take the wheels off. My goal is to put the jack under the car just long enough to get it up on stands under the pre-approved spots. Any suggestions? Red circles on the images would be helpful, since if you say "the wheel strut" I'll not have the foggiest what you're referring to.  This spot right here in between the two bolts wearing groucho marx glasses looks like a good point.
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Oct 14, 2016 17:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you have access to a code reader that can also show live data, you may want to check to see how hot/cold the ECU thinks the engine is. That's a good idea. Would one of those $20 amazon bluetooth readers do that? Poking around some other forums, it sounds like Fit owners are saying that their valve clearances were way out of wack (even at 30k miles!). To my knowledge, they have never been adjusted in my car and I suspect that could be my problem. I've looked up some guides online on how to do it, and it seems doable for me. The thing that worries me is that I would have to remove most of the intake in order to get to it (and all my newly installed spark plugs and coil packs!  )totalnewbie posted:Do you have the same problem as this guy? It doesn't get to -44 C in Phoenix, but it often gets to +44 C!
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Oct 14, 2016 17:51
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I recently purchased a CPO 2014 Subaru WRX hatchback with only 8k miles on it from a subaru dealer near me. I love the car and it's a total blast to drive, very different then my 240sx (which I still have and love). The one thing I have been unable to do that kind of annoys me is get a wallet key made, the dealership says they don't make them. Obviously being a 2014 it has a chipped key and that makes the spare key way to fat to put in a wallet. I would like to know if it's possible to get a chipless key made that will fit in my wallet (I know it won't start the car), but I am dumb and I know it's only a matter of time before I go somewhere and someone or I myself locks me out of the car. Please tell me it's possible to make this happen.
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Oct 14, 2016 17:59
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canyoneer posted:That's a good idea. Would one of those $20 amazon bluetooth readers do that? If you have an android, yes. Get the Torque Pro app for like $5. I've been using it to do exactly this since replacing my radiator a few days ago. If you have an IOS device, get the wifi version...I'm not sure which app is equivalent to torque, there are a couple of options.
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Oct 14, 2016 18:06
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1996 Rav4, but applies to anything. What protectants can I use on exterior plastics?
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Oct 15, 2016 02:07
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Wife needs a new battery. Optoma? Kirkland signature? Weight and load are not issues.
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Oct 15, 2016 05:45
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They're all made by like two companies, Johnson Controls and the other one that isn't Optima. Just get whatever the book says, and has a recent date sticker on it (going to walmart sometimes their batteries sit for a year). You're shopping for the warranty, not the battery, unless you're getting RV or Marine deep cycle ones. Optima are overpriced, but okay, but also not as good as they were ten years ago. You don't need an Optima.
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Oct 15, 2016 05:47
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If I'm going to be welding on the bed of an early 2000s Ford Ranger (Vulcan v6, white), do I need to take any precautions against frying the truck's electronics beyond just unplugging the battery?
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Oct 15, 2016 06:19
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:They're all made by like two companies, Johnson Controls and the other one that isn't Optima. Deka/east penn is the other company you're thinking of. Exide also makes their own batteries, but they are poo. Also, johnson controls owns optima and optima's quality has bounced back nicely after some hiccups due to moving manufacturing plants. You don't need an optima though.
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Oct 15, 2016 07:57
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Safety Dance posted:If I'm going to be welding on the bed of an early 2000s Ford Ranger (Vulcan v6, white), do I need to take any precautions against frying the truck's electronics beyond just unplugging the battery? Be careful if your welding near the bulbs for the tail lights. Tail lights do not last long when overheated. Other then that you should be ok. If you want a second hand you know how to get a hold of me.
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Oct 15, 2016 18:39
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I am thinking about buying a hybrid for my next vehicle and I am looking at the Toyota RAV4 hybrid. Are there any significant changes in maintenance that I should be aware of with a hybrid versus a regular vehicle? (Id be interested in seeing how long the motor bearings last and if they are replaced on a schedule.)
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Oct 15, 2016 19:27
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Three-Phase posted:I am thinking about buying a hybrid for my next vehicle and I am looking at the Toyota RAV4 hybrid. Not unless you plan on keeping the car for longer than 300,000km's. The only changes worth mentioning are brakes that last longer and coolant capacity about 1.5x that of a normal rav.
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Oct 15, 2016 19:43
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Slavvy posted:Not unless you plan on keeping the car for longer than 300,000km's. The only changes worth mentioning are brakes that last longer and coolant capacity about 1.5x that of a normal rav. That's good to know - I did see that the battery packs have warranties for I think 10 years and 100k miles. Not sure about warranties on the electrical system (rotating machines and power semiconductors*). * - I work at a facility with dozens of low-voltage drives and several medium-voltage drives and I don't think we has ever had a power semiconductor (SCR or IGBT) fail.
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Oct 15, 2016 21:46
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Three-Phase posted:That's good to know - I did see that the battery packs have warranties for I think 10 years and 100k miles. Not sure about warranties on the electrical system (rotating machines and power semiconductors*). What do the things you said mean, please?
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Oct 15, 2016 23:04
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Michael Scott posted:What do the things you said mean, please?
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Oct 15, 2016 23:12
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InitialDave posted:He was concerned that while the battery pack might have a good warranty, there could be a gotcha in the electric motor or the various systems that direct and control power between the two. Yeah pretty much this.
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Oct 16, 2016 01:47
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In general automotive bearing replacement schedules are "when it makes a funny noise" - if you want to preemptively replace them, it usually costs a lot to overhaul and $nicedinner worth of parts. As long as they aren't fluid bearings (like the ones in the gas engine) you can safely wait till they make noise and then replace them as this replaces the rollers and both (generally... there are exceptions) wear surfaces. Keeping the engine and trans oil changed on schedule will prevent damage better than preemptive bearing replacement imo.
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Oct 17, 2016 02:55
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Quick question; I've got a 2002 honda civic si; all stock. I'm at ~212k miles and have been pretty good at taking it in. Recently the car starts to chug when I'm in low RPMs. It goes away after I hit about 2500 regardless of gear/speed. I'm going to be taking it into the shop, but just wanted an idea of what it might be before it goes in. I'll be getting an oil change at the same time as its ready. Should I have them check the spark plugs? Something else that will usually cause it? The car has had a O2 error since I've owned it (9 years, bought at 75k miles), so its always coding. I replaced the o2 sensors, didn't fix it, so it seems like its likely a cat issue? but up until about 2 months ago it drove w/o incident.
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Oct 17, 2016 16:47
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Anyone had a wood or metal garage on asphalt for a significant period of time? My wife and I are trying to find a house with 3 garage spaces, but they aren't as common as 2 car garages accompanied by hundreds of square feet of parking asphalt. Kicking around the idea of an awning and then a metal/wood carport on asphalt. Pros/cons for storing a car in winter for years on asphalt in a metal/wood 10x20?
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Oct 17, 2016 17:01
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deong posted:Quick question; Have you ever changed the spark plugs? If not, it's time anyway. Especially for a car from 2002, might still have nickel plugs. As for the O2 sensor code, it depends on what the code is. A lot of things can set O2 sensor codes without it being a sensor issue.
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Oct 17, 2016 17:32
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Agreed. In fact I usually get an O2 sensor code when the coilpacks on my Subaru are on their last leg, because Subaru ECUs are apparently retarded and can't detect a failing coilpack or serious misfire conditions until far after the ECU has decided the O2 sensor is reading inaccurately because of all the unburned fuel/air in the exhaust. Many things can cause that, you gotta figure out which it is. I'd start with plugs and (if it has them, I forget if a 2002 is COP) wires since it's due for them anyways. Are there any exhaust leaks upstream of the upstream O2 sensor? That could affect the O2 sensor's readings as well.
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Oct 17, 2016 17:55
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Hello. Please read the last post in my Mazda2 thread and make me feel better thanks I am a fragile flower.
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Oct 17, 2016 18:27
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totalnewbie posted:Have you ever changed the spark plugs? If not, it's time anyway. Especially for a car from 2002, might still have nickel plugs. Thanks. I need to double check, I asked the shop to do a 200k maintenance check on the last oil change. I thought I had the plugs/wires replaced but Im not 100%. I have the records at home to check.
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Oct 17, 2016 22:33
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What's a 200k mile maintenance check? Like, who has a standard "Do this at 200k!" procedure? Or maybe I'm underestimating how many cars regularly make it to 200k... edit: not making fun of you or anything, I can guess it's probably just check fluids, belts, etc.
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Oct 17, 2016 22:38
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totalnewbie posted:What's a 200k mile maintenance check? Like, who has a standard "Do this at 200k!" procedure? In the car manual, it has do x at x miles. I've used that as a judge of when to do things.
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Oct 17, 2016 22:43
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Anyone had a wood or metal garage on asphalt for a significant period of time? My wife and I are trying to find a house with 3 garage spaces, but they aren't as common as 2 car garages accompanied by hundreds of square feet of parking asphalt. Kicking around the idea of an awning and then a metal/wood carport on asphalt. Pros/cons for storing a car in winter for years on asphalt in a metal/wood 10x20? Your car itself shouldn't be too hard on asphalt, but I wouldn't try to support the weight of any kind of structure on it. You could just tear up the spots necessary for concrete piers to support the carport.
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Oct 17, 2016 23:00
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'14 Mazda3 Hatch. Anyone else with one who uses bluetooth audio from their phone, and finds that the audio is delayed by about two to three seconds from whatever event on the phone activated it? Seems to be consistent between iOS and Android phones, at least in the time I've had the car. Not noticeable with just audio obviously, but extremely noticeable if I'm parked and looking at a video or (more relevantly) when it's trying to give directions from Google Maps / Waze.
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Oct 18, 2016 00:49
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deong posted:In the car manual, it has do x at x miles. I've used that as a judge of when to do things. Yeah, I know, I just didn't think they go out to 200k miles. I mean, sure, there's "every X miles" but 200k is a lot of driving/long time.
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Oct 18, 2016 03:42
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My chebby has a (possible) problem: 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, 5.3L There's a ticking sound coming from the engine when it's running. I think it's the power steering pump, but it's hard to isolate. Is there a testing procedure? Some way to determine if that's it? No CEL, no change that I can see in driving behaviour (power, shifting, etc)
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Oct 18, 2016 03:42
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DrakeriderCa posted:My chebby has a (possible) problem: Get a longish stick or rod or something. Stick one end in your ear and touch the end to various surfaces while the engine's running. Watch out for moving parts. Should help to pinpoint where the sound is coming from at least. Yes I'm serious.
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Oct 18, 2016 04:00
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You can also just take the belt off for a bit. I wouldn't run it for very long with no water pump, but if it would be immediately obvious at idle whether your sound is still there or not, it shouldn't cause any issues.
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Oct 18, 2016 04:02
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Power steering pumps usually wine. Ticking could be fan clutch if still mechanical. Also the ls motors tick. The 5.3L is known for ticking lifters. Worst case scenario https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THd_EKQ9If8
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Oct 18, 2016 04:07
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DrakeriderCa posted:My chebby has a (possible) problem: Mine had a noticible tick from 75k miles on. It would get more pronounced in the last 1000 miles before an oil change, but I never had any issues. Otoh, yours is the fancy version with displacement on demand and vvt gubbins iirc. In either case, check your fluid levels and if need be, automotive stethescopes are a thing. We keep 'em in stock at work since they are handy for listening to bearings. v  v
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Oct 18, 2016 10:15
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So last night my 2000 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger, ahem) lost a rear brake line: Can I buy the pre-formed line somewhere, or do I have to buy a length of steel brake line, cut it, bend it and flare it? Can I bleed just the one wheel or do I need to bleed the whole system?
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Oct 18, 2016 15:43
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