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Aliquid posted:Confirmed with HWInfo, my CPU runs at 78C after twenty minutes of Battlefield 1 at regular clocking with a box fan pointed at it. That's basically what I would expect. Is it a stock cooler? Pointing a box fan at it really won't help much. I really don't think you'd get any benefit 19-20x multiplier. Time for an intel chip and a hyper 212 evo.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:38
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What country are you in? UK. What are you using the system for? Gaming and web-surfing. What's your budget? Around £700. Need case and all the insides, and a copy of Windows 10. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? None. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Monitor's a fairly old 1080p 22" Samsung. Just running something from 2010 would probably be a step up from what I'm currently using. I asked for advice for a £500 build at the start of the year, but life got in the way of me buying it, and now my budget's expanded a little more I thought it best to get fresh information as to what's available. This'll be my first time building a PC, so ideally I'd like a case that's simple to work with and maintain. Also, having on-board Wi-Fi would be a huge help - I've got a small £10 dongle, but I expect anything internal would probably give better performance. Thanks for your help.
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Oct 25, 2016 00:17
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MisterAlex posted:My roommate Jason wants to make a desktop machine that's compact enough to easily take to friends' places. The Nano is a terrible case if he wants to move his computer around a lot, as it's over 30 liters. You could try the SG13-B which will fit all your parts and is 10.5 liters, so one third the size. Or you could swap the case and PSU for the Node 202 which is also 10.5 liters but requires a SFX PSU, they have version that comes with said PSU.
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Oct 25, 2016 10:45
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VulgarandStupid posted:The Nano is a terrible case if he wants to move his computer around a lot, as it's over 30 liters. You could try the SG13-B which will fit all your parts and is 10.5 liters, so one third the size. Or you could swap the case and PSU for the Node 202 which is also 10.5 liters but requires a SFX PSU, they have version that comes with said PSU. Ah, gotcha. Thanks a bunch. I like both of those more.
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Oct 25, 2016 15:07
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What are some things you look for and check up on when buying a PSU? They all seem so similar, but I know there are smallish things like noise and whether it's modular or not. Are there reputable brands like with other components?
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Oct 25, 2016 16:15
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ufarn posted:What are some things you look for and check up on when buying a PSU? They all seem so similar, but I know there are smallish things like noise and whether it's modular or not. Are there reputable brands like with other components? http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
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Oct 25, 2016 16:19
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Cloud Potato posted:Also, having on-board Wi-Fi would be a huge help - I've got a small £10 dongle, but I expect anything internal would probably give better performance. Thanks for your help. Also, the wifi dongle may be good enough for you anyways if it works well and isn't creating a bottleneck with your internet connection.
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Oct 25, 2016 17:07
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Hey folks. Probably paranoid, but am I deffo ok bringing these two together? Asking as one is from a different PC and I know things can go wrong with this socket.
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Oct 25, 2016 17:45
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Inverse square posted:Hey folks. Probably paranoid, but am I deffo ok bringing these two together? Asking as one is from a different PC and I know things can go wrong with this socket. Yeah power cords are pretty interchangable.
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Oct 25, 2016 17:51
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There's pretty much zero problems with using those things, I've used ones that seem ancient with no problems.
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Oct 25, 2016 18:49
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Yeah the only theoretical issue I know of is if the cable was not rated for the voltage or current you need, it is a fire hazard. Which is just not really a thing that happens in reality, I don't think. If you take a look, the specs the cable is rated for are usually printed on the cable itself. Even an old lovely-looking one I found lying around, which was probably originally bundled with some low-power device, is rated for up to 10A @ 125V - so that's up to 1250W. Even here in north america where everything is 110-120V, it is very common for these cables to be rated up to 250V or more anyway.
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Oct 25, 2016 19:50
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Cloud Potato posted:What country are you in? UK. OK, tinkered with PCPartPicker, here's my current thinking: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor (£92.91 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£59.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£32.98 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£84.99 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.29 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card (£146.48 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (£82.98 @ Ebuyer) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£49.99 @ Novatech) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£84.98 @ Novatech) Total: £710.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-25 21:12 BST+0100 I guess the first thing is that it's those brand new 1050Ti's; it's better to go with a new card than a step up but a generation back, yes?
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Oct 25, 2016 21:17
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After careful consideration of my options, I'm going to upgrade. Note that I already have hard drives and monitors and a gtx 1060. Please comment. Seems straightforward to me. I never plan to overclock. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($286.98 @ DirectCanada) Motherboard: *Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($162.00 @ Vuugo) Memory: *GeIL SUPER LUCE 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg Canada) Case: *Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.98 @ DirectCanada) Power Supply: *EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX) Total: $736.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-25 17:16 EDT-0400
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Oct 25, 2016 22:17
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Slowly putting together a list (aiming for a black friday buy - except for a monitor, I'm starting from scratch, which is going to make this a pricey proposition). There are two moving parts I'm not sure about. I haven't built a PC since the Pentium 4 days, when overclocking was a whole thing. Seems easier now, but I'm way out of practice with my tinkering - I've had a Mac laptop for the last decade now. Can someone give me an idea of how much dickering around I'd have to do if I went with a K processor and overclocked it? How easy it is to tone down instability? I'll probably be aiming for 1080p gaming, which makes me comfortable with the 1060. However, I'd love for VR to be a thing and will be toying with buying in. Does the 1060 have the horsepower to drive a HMD? Tests on the internet seem surprisingly scarce. If no, how do these things retain resale value? Am I better off going with a 1060 now then selling and upgrading if i buy into VR, or just saving a bit more and getting the 1070 now?
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Oct 25, 2016 23:18
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Boxman posted:Slowly putting together a list (aiming for a black friday buy - except for a monitor, I'm starting from scratch, which is going to make this a pricey proposition). There are two moving parts I'm not sure about. Overclocking consists of changing a number in the bios. You can fiddle with more settings to eke out higher clocks, but doing it quick is dead simple. A 1060 is probably enough for VR? I haven't seen much comparing it to the 970 the headsets list as a minimum.
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Oct 26, 2016 00:06
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kripes posted:After careful consideration of my options, I'm going to upgrade. Note that I already have hard drives and monitors and a gtx 1060. Please comment. Seems straightforward to me. I never plan to overclock. you dont need a z170 mobo if you are sure you wont be overclocking an h170 will be at least $50 cheaper and be extremely similar minus overclocking this one from the OP seems to be well reviewed and come with a very full feature set http://pcpartpicker.com/product/nx648d/msi-motherboard-h170apcmate The list seems fine otherwise. I dont really understand canadian pricing but i dont see anything outrageous Boxman posted:Slowly putting together a list (aiming for a black friday buy - except for a monitor, I'm starting from scratch, which is going to make this a pricey proposition). There are two moving parts I'm not sure about. for the extremely wary or lazy, every z170 mobo comes with an auto OC option in the bios or sometimes its just an .exe you run from the desktop. It wont go as high as if you did it yourself and it usually does a higher voltage than needed in order to be completely stable but its totally safe and braindead easy to use. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 00:11
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Is there any reason aside from price to not go AiO cooler over a regular heatsink? How often do they fail, when they do is it catastrophic? I assume the liquid inside is mostly non conductable?
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Oct 26, 2016 01:20
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kripes posted:After careful consideration of my options, I'm going to upgrade. Note that I already have hard drives and monitors and a gtx 1060. Please comment. Seems straightforward to me. I never plan to overclock. Switch the RAM to this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233911 Sure, it's $20 more expensive, but Corsair's NA support is phenomenal, and the heatspreaders won't get in the way of anything, unlike the giant ones that look like they're on those GeIL DIMMs. The red spreaders are the cheapest version, if you want black to match your board, it's $5 more: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233831 I've been looking at boards for you for longer than I'd care to admit - get that Z170-E even though you're getting a non-K chip, with the rebate at Newegg it's better than the H170 options I've been looking at. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 02:30
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The General posted:Is there any reason aside from price to not go AiO cooler over a regular heatsink? How often do they fail, when they do is it catastrophic? I assume the liquid inside is mostly non conductable? I've never heard of one failing but I'd definitely go for a decent brand. I imagine you'd hear the pump failing before anything. They take up a fair bit of space and not all cases have a place or the room for the radiator+fans.
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Oct 26, 2016 02:51
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VelociBacon posted:I've never heard of one failing but I'd definitely go for a decent brand. I imagine you'd hear the pump failing before anything. They take up a fair bit of space and not all cases have a place or the room for the radiator+fans. mine failed this year, it was a brand new corsair h100 which is a very popular clc. The pump just stopped a year after installation without any warning sounds or loss in performance beforehand. One day my idle temp was 70c and I couldnt play any games without massive throttling. It was installed with everything in the correct orientation and was replaced under warranty with not very much trouble. If there a leak the warranty generally covers any damaged parts. If the pump fails which is more likely it will just not cool very well. At idle the cpu will probably still be okay and not in any danger. I will probably go with a full custom loop or an air cooler next build, but not a clc Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 03:25
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Bigger air coolers are actually seriously effective as well, but really the ~30 or so USD range air coolers are blatantly the sweet spot so I can't recommend the big coolers unless you're a stupid like me who wants to pay extra to hang a kilo of metal off the socket (NH-D15, seriously effective but not exactly price effective).
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Oct 26, 2016 04:07
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What are expected solid sale prices for SSDs in the 250gb range? I've been watching prices bounce around over the last few weeks for a few non-Samsung brands. ~$50 I guess. But I don't know what's a deal now versus a year ago hot deals. Not looking for top speed specs, just reliability and affordability.
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Oct 26, 2016 07:21
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Kramdar posted:What are expected solid sale prices for SSDs in the 250gb range? I've been watching prices bounce around over the last few weeks for a few non-Samsung brands. ~$50 I guess. But I don't know what's a deal now versus a year ago hot deals. Not looking for top speed specs, just reliability and affordability. Look for an x400. Might go down to $70-$75 or so and that's about as cheap as you're realistically going to get I'm afraid. It's worth the premium over garbage tier SSDs. Speed is less an issue than reliability, which takes a long walk off a short pier the cheaper you get.
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Oct 26, 2016 08:51
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Cat Army 
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Is there much point in spending 40% extra on getting a ASUS MAXIMUS VIII RANGER instead of a ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING? The comparison function on Asus' website is pretty poo poo.
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Oct 26, 2016 09:55
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Boz0r posted:Is there much point in spending 40% extra on getting a ASUS MAXIMUS VIII RANGER instead of a ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING? The comparison function on Asus' website is pretty poo poo. Not really. Some of the higher end motherboards have features you might want if you're messing with BIOSes and doing super high overclocking, but any Z170 board should be more than capable of doing all of the basics. I'd just make sure the feature list matches what you want. I've had my OC'd i5-4670K in an ASUS Z87-A for about three years now without any problems and expect it to last a long time.
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Oct 26, 2016 10:06
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I could use some help or suggestions - I have a computer with an i5 3570 (the locked version) on a p67a motherboard, 8gb of DDR3 and a GTX 970. I like to play sims that are pretty CPU intensive and I'm considering an upgrade of some sort because it seems to me the CPU is bottlenecking me. One option is to try and find an unlocked version of 3570 or go full upgrade and replace all of it, CPU, mobo and ram. Any thoughts on what would be best price/performance wise?
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Oct 26, 2016 10:27
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Ledenko posted:I could use some help or suggestions - I have a computer with an i5 3570 (the locked version) on a p67a motherboard, 8gb of DDR3 and a GTX 970. I like to play sims that are pretty CPU intensive and I'm considering an upgrade of some sort because it seems to me the CPU is bottlenecking me. One option is to try and find an unlocked version of 3570 or go full upgrade and replace all of it, CPU, mobo and ram. Any thoughts on what would be best price/performance wise? An overclocked 3570K is still very good. If you can find one for under $150 and get a good cooler I'd probably do that. There's some on ebay for that price (even a couple that are listed as new). If there are other features you think you'd benefit from on Skylake then you may want to look at upgrading everything but you'll be buying a processor, motherboard, and RAM at minimum (around $400).
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Oct 26, 2016 10:36
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What do you guys think of this upgrade list: CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K Motherboard: Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Cooler: DeepCool Maelstrom 120T (bundled with CPU and motherboard) RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000 DC 16GB
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Oct 26, 2016 11:30
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Boz0r posted:What do you guys think of this upgrade list: I have the same motherboard and also the same kind of ram, except the 3200mhz version. Most of the time its great but every once in a while during boot the bios gives an unable to set overclock error. From what Ive been gathering other people are having trouble with this aswell and a simple reboot fixes it. Seems to be something related to ram overclocking that confuses it. Though I havent noticed it happening on the newest bios.
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Oct 26, 2016 11:46
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Hello all, After my computer recently packed it in, I am very close to pulling the trigger on a list of parts to build my very first computer. I was hoping to confirm, before actually paying anything out, if all of the components listed will work together? But first, I am living in London, UK. What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? A little bit of work (hosting SQL server environment, but not hosting any real database; mostly just playing around), but a little bit of gaming and video streaming, etc. What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. Flexible but ideally less than £1,000.00. No need for any peripheral devices, just the tower. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? SSMS, R Studio; but nothing else and the numbers/data I'm using for both is for practise and not going to be a major drain on the system. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I have my current tower hooked up to my TV which is approx 50-60"; not really sure what the resolution is. I'd be happy with something mid-way between basically running as I don't play a ton of games; but would ideally like this system to last as long as my last (+10 years) and keep up new games as they are released over that period. All components and model/item numbers are courtesy of NewEgg. I also may need to swap out the RAM in this list as it is currently out of stock. What do you guys think? Will the below work together? Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced - High Air Flow Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0 and All-Black Interior Model #:RC-932-KKN5-GP Item #:N82E16811119160 ASUS X99-A/USB 3.1 LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard Model #:X99-A/USB 3.1 Item #:N82E16813132516 EVGA GeForce GTX 970 04G-P4-3975-KR 4GB SSC GAMING w/ACX 2.0+, Whisper Silent Cooling Graphics Card Model #:04G-P4-3975-KR Item #:N82E16814487088 EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 220-G2-0750-XR 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular EVGA ECO Mode Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply Model #:220-G2-0750-XR Item #:N82E16817438017 Intel Core i7-5930K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.5 GHz LGA 2011-v3 140W BX80648I75930K Desktop Processor Model #:BX80648I75930K Item #:N82E16819117403 GeIL SUPER LUCE 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Desktop Memory Model GLW432GB2400C14DC Model #:GLW432GB2400C14DC Item #:N82E16820144829 Seagate NAS HDD ST4000VN000 4TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive Model #:ST4000VN000 Item #:N82E16822178393
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Oct 26, 2016 13:14
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VelociBacon posted:You keep mentioning the 100% thing - games will cause 100% load on cpu/gpu for basically every system. I wasn't smart in like 2011 when I bought it. It's gunna cost me 600ish for a 1070, less for a 1060, or 700ish for an i5 6600+16gb ram+z170 underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 13:34
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Does anyone have any experience with brand new Chinese sellers posting absurdly low prices for PC parts on Amazon? I had a price alert go off for a $15 500gb Samsung 850 EVO. I looked at the seller's other items and also found the Kingston HyperX Fury Black 2x8gb kit for loving $2. I placed orders for both, because what the hell, but I'm fully expecting to get scammed. Shipping times are about a full month. What's going on here?
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Oct 26, 2016 14:46
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If it sounds to good to be true it probably is. Never trust a brand new Chinese re-seller. Also, this isn't Steam, if its 90% off for a new-in-box product its definitely a scam.
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Oct 26, 2016 15:19
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So I'm looking at getting a new computer and I was wondering if the parts I have picked here, based off of the recommendation in the OP, are ok. As for the GPU I currently have a GTX 770 so I'm not in a hurry for a new one, and for the PSU (Seasonic 650W Gold series), I plan to use the one in my current pc since it's only about 5 months old. It's primarily for gaming I suppose. Kinda need help on what kind of CPU cooler to get, in the summer months it gets really hot so I'm assuming water cooling? Agrajag fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 15:37
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Agrajag posted:So I'm looking at getting a new computer and I was wondering if the parts I have picked here, based off of the recommendation in the OP, are ok. As for the GPU I currently have a GTX 770 so I'm not in a hurry for a new one, and for the PSU (Seasonic 650W Gold series), I plan to use the one in my current pc since it's only about 5 months old. It's primarily for gaming I suppose. Kinda need help on what kind of CPU cooler to get, in the summer months it gets really hot so I'm assuming water cooling? Might be cheaper to get the non pro SSD and not much gain for the pro. I'd get faster 3000MHz+ RAM, and a simple 212 Evo cooler works fine and is cheap. Your GTX 770 is a bit dated but you might be able to eek it out a little longer.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:05
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Larrymer posted:Might be cheaper to get the non pro SSD and not much gain for the pro. I'd get faster 3000MHz+ RAM, and a simple 212 Evo cooler works fine and is cheap. Your GTX 770 is a bit dated but you might be able to eek it out a little longer. What do you think of the Samsung 750 EVO 250GB at $90?
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Oct 26, 2016 16:10
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Agrajag posted:What do you think of the Samsung 750 EVO 250GB at $90? I have an older 840 evo 256gb and if I could do it over again I would have went for a 500gb. I know it's more expensive but the space fills up quick with modern games. I don't know much about the 750 series and how they compare, the 850 evo is the standard recommendation though. I think the warranty is shorter on the 750's.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:17
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The NAND on the 750 isn't nearly as good as what's on the 850. Get an X400 instead if you're pinching pennies.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:39
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Alzion posted:If it sounds to good to be true it probably is. Never trust a brand new Chinese re-seller. Also, this isn't Steam, if its 90% off for a new-in-box product its definitely a scam.
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Oct 26, 2016 18:46
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I've bought items like that and they never show up and you have to charge back.
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Oct 26, 2016 19:08
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