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Bistromatic posted:I have some paints by a company called andrea colour and i swear they're vanilla scented or something. Pink soap brush cleaner smells like perfection. I can't get over it, I clean brushes that I'm pretty sure have already been cleaned just to get a whiff.
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Oct 25, 2016 21:19
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 Just finished this happy lil' robot. It looks good in person, promise. I just can't figure out how to take good photos of miniatures. I even tried using a backdrop. 
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Oct 26, 2016 01:08
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More light would help, especially if you can light the model from several different angles at the same time.
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Oct 26, 2016 02:05
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Moola posted:
That's adorable 
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Oct 26, 2016 02:18
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Nichol posted:Pink soap brush cleaner smells like perfection. I can't get over it, I clean brushes that I'm pretty sure have already been cleaned just to get a whiff. How do you use brush soap? I don't find it's doing anything and methylated spirits in a sonic bath cleans my brushes much better.
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Oct 26, 2016 02:47
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Kommando posted:How do you use brush soap? I don't find it's doing anything and methylated spirits in a sonic bath cleans my brushes much better. The same way I use plastic glue, apparently. You fuckers are hobbying wrong.
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Oct 26, 2016 03:19
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Kommando posted:How do you use brush soap? I don't find it's doing anything and methylated spirits in a sonic bath cleans my brushes much better. I have a stack of air brush cleaner in my ultrasonic. Will that clean/gently caress-up my brushes?
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Oct 26, 2016 03:31
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Kommando posted:How do you use brush soap? I don't find it's doing anything and methylated spirits in a sonic bath cleans my brushes much better. I mean, you just brush the brush in the soap until you get a nice lather than rinse and repeat until clean. I don't get what's not to get.
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Oct 26, 2016 08:02
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Is there a trick to using Tamiya clear paints without an airbrush? Bought them thinking they'd be like GW glazes but it seems like they're alcohol based.
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Oct 26, 2016 13:44
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ijyt posted:Is there a trick to using Tamiya clear paints without an airbrush? Bought them thinking they'd be like GW glazes but it seems like they're alcohol based. I had a lot of problems with them drying out or not brushing easily, but I had a lot more luck after I thinned it much more than usual. You'll have to do a few layers to get a good colored coat, but it will be much easier and come out much smoother.
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Oct 26, 2016 14:20
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I'm getting tired of hand-priming my models, but can't afford an airbrush setup at the moment. What brand of rattlecan flat grey should I pick up?
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Oct 26, 2016 15:02
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Rustoleum has never done me wrong.
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Oct 26, 2016 15:05
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This month's crosspost from the oath thread.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Oct 26, 2016 17:03
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm getting tired of hand-priming my models, but can't afford an airbrush setup at the moment. What brand of rattlecan flat grey should I pick up? UK? Halfords Grey 500ml (not the one called Plastic Primer). IIRC the OP has a section on primers.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:52
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Krylon and Rustoleum each have like 12 different lines of primers though, which is frustrating.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:57
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm getting tired of hand-priming my models, but can't afford an airbrush setup at the moment. What brand of rattlecan flat grey should I pick up? Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer is very good.
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Oct 26, 2016 18:53
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So, I have a container of GF9 Dirt Flock Foundation that I got on discount a year ago. It's a key component to the graveyard I'm doing. It's a pretty small amount though, and I'm trying to find another source that sells the same blend in larger amounts. Woodland Scenics is the obvious choice, but I'm not sure which blend that GF9 is taking and repackaging into tiny containers. Their blended turf earth blend (which I have) doesn't come close, but their Fine Earth seems like it might be close. Thoughts? Anyone have both to compare with?
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Oct 26, 2016 19:39
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Electric Hobo posted:This month's crosspost from the oath thread. Honestly, if you just paint the base rim brown or black you'll be good. The viking dude looks dope though.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:38
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Avenging Dentist posted:Tamiya Fine Grey Surface Primer is very good. Beaten. Not the first time I've recommended it in this thread, it's beautiful to use.
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Oct 27, 2016 08:18
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DumbparameciuM posted:Beaten. Not the first time I've recommended it in this thread, it's beautiful to use. Does it make you go... 
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Oct 27, 2016 08:22
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SRM posted:Honestly, if you just paint the base rim brown or black you'll be good. The viking dude looks dope though. Thanks! That's what I usually do, but here I need the colored rim for quick owner identification from all angles. There's a lot of similar looking figures in a 4 or 5 player game, and a bunch of people I play with can't reliably tell them from each other without a solid color. Not all the models have a plume on their head so you can't see their color from a lot of angles. I tried to put flowers in the player colors on some models, but it still didn't work, so this is the best solution that I could come up with.
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Oct 27, 2016 13:17
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Kommando posted:How do you use brush soap? I don't find it's doing anything and methylated spirits in a sonic bath cleans my brushes much better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoovPge1Rq4 I'd recommend muting the video. The stuff works wonders for cleaning and re-pointing. I'd suspect sonic cleaning your brushes will wear them out faster or damage the inner ferrule.
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Oct 27, 2016 17:18
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How feasible is it to buy an airbrush that can be used for mini painting and nail art?
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Oct 27, 2016 18:39
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goodness posted:How feasible is it to buy an airbrush that can be used for mini painting and nail art? Very feasible; for 80 bux you can get a solid chinese knockoff of a Badger airbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TO578Q It wont be exceptional for super specific detailing, but it will work well if you're cool with masking areas. Speaking of, I believe Vallejo sells liquid mask, which will be far easier to use for minis than tape. I can't speak to how well it does nail art, though.
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Oct 27, 2016 18:48
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I spent about twice that and got a legit Badger and a twin piston air compressor with tank. The compressor is a mystery meat model, but even the branded compressors look like identical Chinese contract stuff.
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Oct 27, 2016 19:37
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Final picture of these fucks, pinky promise. Made my first sculpey base for the
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Oct 27, 2016 21:10
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I've been trying my hand at camo, and while I can get a pretty decent digital-ish camo effect using stippling, I'm finding myself concluding that camo doesn't work on miniatures in general. The issue seems to be that camo breaks up and confused the lines of the model. Which is more or less doing the exact opposite of what you are trying to do with your standard paint job. Seems like it should only be used for large surfaces like a cloak, or on something like a tank with really extreme edges. Anyone have a camo technique to counter this issue, or a way of getting camo to look like camo while still making the lines pronounced?
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Oct 27, 2016 21:29
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You got it figured out exactly, real cano wants to break up contours while we want to emphasize them. The general way is to lower the contrast between the colours of the pattern. Choose the base colours closer together and/or pull thogether with washes or glazes. If possible use the same highlight color for all the colours, doubly so for edge highlights sine you want those continous. This is all way easier if youre doing a fictional pattern and dont want to be historically accurate. I can get some pictures of my dropzone stuff tomorrow. Also Moola: how's the ghosts coming along? The test one was already cute.
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Oct 27, 2016 22:27
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What do you guys use for palettes? My makeshift wet palette makes my paint maybe too thin. My cheapo plastic circle palette dries paint immediately. mango sentinel fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 22:29
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Neurolimal posted:Very feasible; for 80 bux you can get a solid chinese knockoff of a Badger airbrush: I don't mind paying $200 as long as it's good for both. I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be able to do nails and minis but I've never had one Nail airbrushing is mainly doing a prime coat, fades/blending or stencils that are about the size of marine shoulder of decals. Would the patriot 105 be able to do that on as small area as a nail? goodness fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 22:57
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Cyclomatic posted:I've been trying my hand at camo, and while I can get a pretty decent digital-ish camo effect using stippling, I'm finding myself concluding that camo doesn't work on miniatures in general.   This "desert tiger stripe" pattern is just two sharply-contrasting colors. It is washed to give some shading effect, and only done on the tunics (which serves to limit how much of the mini's "real estate" is affected).   This is more of a "night urban tiger stripe," and is a 3-color scheme. It's hard to tell, but the base dark-gray color is highlighted with dry-brushing before the black and light-gray stripes are added. Again, the scheme is limited to certain parts of the model, and the solid-black vest and leather accessories help to give the mini some definition.   This is straight-up MultiCam. The base layer has quite a bit of shading and highlighting, but once the other 3 colors are added (green, dark brown, and a tan/cream color), you lose some of the textural variation. You need to look closely to see that he has cargo pockets on his butt and thigh, for instance. Again, the pattern itself was limited to just parts of the uniform, with the gray saddle-padding on the arms and legs serving to keep some definition. The first two patterns look good on the table-top. There's enough contrast in them and the pattern's orientation is such that the shading and highlighting of the base color is still apparent. the last mini looks decent on the table-top, but looks much better up close. At tabletop distance, much of the camo pattern is lost. Limiting the amount of area you're using it over helps, though. Where camo patterns look the best is on areas that don't have any underlying texture that lends itself well to shading or highlighting. If there's nothing to draw the attention of the eye, a camo pattern can give visual appeal to what would otherwise be a pretty boring surface. It's why Imperial Guard tanks almost always look better than Space Marine vehicles, and why the Space Marine vehicles that look the best are the ones that are weathered to poo poo and look like they've actually been in a war. So camo can work, you've just got to be a little careful with how you go about it.
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Oct 27, 2016 23:26
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Got home and took a photo of one of the test minis. First image is the initial test pattern, and then first attempt at applying the pattern to a model. Second and third image are with an attempt to clean it up a bit more. I most likely shouldn't be deciding if a half finished miniature looks right, but it just feels like it is missing something.
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Oct 28, 2016 02:30
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The pattern is cool, but you desperately need some contrasting colors on the mini. Right now it looks really monochromatic.
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Oct 28, 2016 02:42
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Metal going to be silver shaded with purple? Could add teal minor details...
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Oct 28, 2016 02:47
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For Halloween I figured I'd paint up a bunch of undead. Here's where I left off a couple of weeks ago...     A couple of vampires, a Lady Death, and a demon lady. They're the first medium size things I'd painted with human faces and I can see where I need to do a lot more work on my detail game. They were painted all in the same session so I didn't notice what I was loving up until I was done.  Barrow Wardens. I wanted to age them up with some of the corrosion technicals from Citadels. The green copper oxide they make is nice.    Some undead nights.   A couple of simple paint schemes for some monsters.   Mummies! I'm shaky like a chihuahua on espresso so the clean lines on the upper and lower Egypt crown make me very happy.  Have you ever started painting a fallen banner only to go "Oh, that's flayed skin" when you reach the hand on the end? This mini is a bit of a pain in the rear end to paint but I think it turned out ok.
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Oct 28, 2016 04:01
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Hi5 Barrowbuddy, I really like that orange with the bronze armor, my only big critique would be to pick out the details on the arms (they're rough sculpts, but there are some opportunities like the gloves) and try painting the belt to break up the the tunic (could just be me riding on pride from managing to cleanly paint the buckle though  )
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Oct 28, 2016 04:10
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Cross-posting some  from the Terrain thread.         The graveyard so far. It's about good enough for a 3'x3' table, though perhaps a bit more sparse than I'd like. For what I got done in a month I'm pretty happy with it so far. Additional plans are to have some trees, a couple hills, and a decent line of fencing. Possibly a pumpkin patch just for the heck of it. I might try my hand at scratch-building some mausoleums to give some semi-large pieces of blocking terrain, with maybe casting it so I can just pump out copies as I see fit. I'm definitely going to make a giant hanging tree, complete with dangling bodies, as befitting a happy place like Malifaux.
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Oct 28, 2016 23:00
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So guys, I have a plan but would be good to get some feedback on it before I embark if anyone has experience with dipping. I'm wanting to paint up a betrayal at calth box as word bearers in just a few steps since it's such an intimidating number of minis. My current plan is a zenithal undercoat followed by a dark red wash, then dipping the lot in some army painter strong tone quickshade. Sound like a good plan? Is the strong tone (which is brown) a good fit for a dark red paint scheme, or should I go for the dark tone? Maybe wash with a not-dark red in case the quickshade darkens it down too much?
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Oct 29, 2016 02:23
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Slimnoid posted:Cross-posting some Cool and good spooky terrain.
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Oct 29, 2016 02:27
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What are some good cheap nippers?
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Oct 29, 2016 03:44
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