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Special A posted:I can't give up yet! We've been here since the middle of May and it's been a problem since then. Pipes from the heater into the wall are copper. Forced-air heating, no water-pipe heating, but no, we're running the AC still, actually. It's only now dipping into the 60s here in my part of Florida. I can try to temp the water when I get a chance for sure though! I'll check back with that when I can.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:53
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Is your power usage unexpectedly high at any point?
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Oct 26, 2016 17:15
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sidewalk gum posted:Is your power usage unexpectedly high at any point? Oh, lord.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:35
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What's the implication here?  I'm not aware of any spikes...our electric bills have been fairly constant and we don't get unusual dimming or anything.
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Oct 26, 2016 17:53
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D34THROW posted:What's the implication here? That the water is heated by going through an energized pipe that is in contact with a frayed wire. The electric bills would be quite high I think.
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Oct 26, 2016 18:34
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Oct 26, 2016 18:42
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Looks fine to me!
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Oct 26, 2016 18:46
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Bozart posted:That the water is heated by going through an energized pipe that is in contact with a frayed wire. The electric bills would be quite high I think. Wouldn't that lead to being shocked by the water coming out of the cold? We're on budget billing or whatever the gently caress it is so it's $90 a month now, but I think our first electric bill was about $300 (we moved from Maryland, so that's normal, but...still). If I borrowed an ohmmeter or voltmeter would that show up?
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Oct 26, 2016 19:03
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Bozart posted:That the water is heated by going through an energized pipe that is in contact with a frayed wire. The electric bills would be quite high I think. That would be impossible. Water and copper are good conductors. The circuit breaker would trip before that could happen.
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Oct 26, 2016 19:23
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Hypothetically, someone could have connected a load and used the pipe as the neutral, assuming it is properly bonded, which would limit the current that runs through it so the breaker doesn't trip. Sounds pretty ridiculous though it would be a good crappy construction story. I guess if you wanted to check this, you could kill the power at your house (assuming you don't have a well) and then run the water and see if it gets cold again. Two other questions: if you set the washer to cold, does it produce cold water, or is it also warm? Is the cold water line feeding the hot water heater warm, or is it cold as expected? Special A fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 19:40
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Special A posted:Two other questions: if you set the washer to cold, does it produce cold water, or is it also warm? Is the cold water line feeding the hot water heater warm, or is it cold as expected? Comes out cold when the wash is cold. I'll check the cold water line tonight.
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Oct 26, 2016 20:11
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Wasabi the J posted:Thanks guys, great suggestions. I was going to join in on the helpful suggestions as to what to do for wiring your house, since I did mine about five years ago, but then you said gigabit fiber to the home, so gently caress you. Get hosed. I hate you. Anyway someone suggested the Magnepull and I'd vote for it over a DIY version of it - the magnet itself is well designed because it's a bulletnose (i.e. easier to guide through holes etc) and the whole thing is drat strong. Careful when putting it back in the case or taking it out since if you get the two stuck together without a wall in the way it's...difficult, to get unstuck. Fish sticks (the rigid fiberglass rods that screw together) are also much more handy than you'd think, as is a cheap gooseneck camera, usually found on Amazon under car parts because it's used to look inside engines etc. I'd warn you that if you get one of those the lights that are built into them are crap, so you also want to perhaps get a small bright light you can dangle into a hole to light up a wall cavity, otherwise moving the camera around is an exercise in local spot exploration a la an RTS with fog of war enabled. Check out the company Labor Saving Devices, many of their gizmos actually are useful (the wallplate template with level built in, the various fish sticks and ends, etc). I used bundled cabling (2 Cat6, 2 quad RG6) to do runs, which was good because it's so stiff that it's hard to bend it enough to kink the Cat6. It's bad because it's stiff and the bundle is large (had to drill 3/4" holes). I'll say that the wire mesh cones that attach to the ends of fish sticks or pull strings are loving worth it - so much better and easier than wrapping electrical tape around the pull string and end of the cable. They operate like a Chinese finger trap, and you just push them on to the end of the cable once you've run your string/stick, then pull, and the more you pull the harder it grips. At times I was yanking pretty hard on the things and it didn't come off. So definitely get those.
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Oct 26, 2016 21:00
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Welp, that one section of my fence that was in real bad shape finally gave up the ghost from a whole mess of wind Saturday night: In getting it out of there and stacked up in a pile to be taken away, I"m actually amazed it stayed up as long as it did. Every board is so absurdly rotten. The posts rotted off at the ground level and that's what finally caused it to fall. I've only owned the home for about a year, the previous owner did zilch in terms of maintance in it, it looks like. And it wasn't painted very well originally, either. From what I can tell, it looks like one, maybe two, layers of paint, no primer. And I"m not entirely convinced the posts were pressure-treated. They're so rotten now it's hard to say. Thankfully, a contractor is already lined up to replace it, just waiting on my town's absurdly long permitting process.
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Oct 26, 2016 21:07
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Super Soaker Party! posted:
An absolute Godsend at some houses I went to.
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Oct 26, 2016 22:45
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You need a permit to replace an existing fence? Lame. I recently replaced a section of fence not much bigger than what your picture shows myself. I spent one Saturday removing the broken fence and digging out the old footings, then the next weekend deepening the holes, setting posts and building the new fence and gate. If you're even remotely handy, building a fence is an easy and very satisfying project.
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Oct 26, 2016 22:46
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Super Soaker Party! posted:I was going to join in on the helpful suggestions as to what to do for wiring your house, since I did mine about five years ago, but then you said gigabit fiber to the home, so gently caress you. Get hosed. I hate you. Saving this for when my apartment manager tries to evict me for telling them to get the water up to code and we have to buy a house.
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Oct 26, 2016 23:43
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D34THROW posted:Yep! I'm giving up at this point. I'll post in the plumbing thread at some point, but for right now, I'm just frustrated and need to walk away from it. I do remember that this was a problem with mixing taking place in a washing machine due to it being plumbed incorrectly/backwards. There's no voodoo cosmic ray, so, either that cold line doesn't come from where you think it does, or it is mixing through something else.
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Oct 26, 2016 23:58
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Super Soaker Party! posted:I used bundled cabling (2 Cat6, 2 quad RG6) to do runs, which was good because it's so stiff that it's hard to bend it enough to kink the Cat6. It's bad because it's stiff and the bundle is large (had to drill 3/4" holes). I'll say that the wire mesh cones that attach to the ends of fish sticks or pull strings are loving worth it - so much better and easier than wrapping electrical tape around the pull string and end of the cable. They operate like a Chinese finger trap, and you just push them on to the end of the cable once you've run your string/stick, then pull, and the more you pull the harder it grips. At times I was yanking pretty hard on the things and it didn't come off. So definitely get those. I cabled both my parent's houses like this, more or less at least 1 RG6U/Q if not two and 2 Cat5e to each outlet. Trying to pull all of it in one pull is a pain in the rear end but the pull sock is a lifesaver. Keep in mind these cables do have pull strength limits, and if you're yanking the poo poo out of the cable, it's bound up somewhere. Probably the worst thing you could do is shred the cable in the wall somewhere, it would be a total waste. With a flex bit, the sock, pullstring (nylon, poo poo rules), and maybe glowsticks you can more or less fish anything. At some point cutting and repairing the wall is just easier., but not often. I was trying to keep my mouth shut on the Category 6 until the one guy mentioned running Category 7 (???) cables. There's really no reason to spend on 6 in general, but if you're shopping at Home Depot or wherever you tend to find Leviton or the knock off version (don't buy the knock off), the quality of the Cat5 may not be that good. A decent plenum rated Category 5e is just fine for gigabit, probably even MGig/nbase-T to some extent, 6 offering little or no advantage. There is a lot of lovely 5e out there. 6A would be the premium in the 6 line of things for 10G. 7 is not recognized as a thing as far as I know and hell run fiber if you're going to do that. Panduit makes some nice products if you're looking to go top notch, including keystone snap ins for their plate systems that work with a variety of cable types, for speakers, HDMI, whatever. There is also such a thing as 28AWG Cat6, which, does not run full performance specification to 100m but can be helpful if you're trying to squeeze in cabling to somewhere. I have seen it in patch assembly but not so much loose cable right now. If you're just going to fish something between two rooms or up from the basement it could come in handy.
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Oct 27, 2016 00:12
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To the guy with the warm water problem: are your cold in/hot out reversed in your water heater? We had a similar symptom at the sink farthest from the water heater where the cold stayed warm but didn't notice it elsewhere. The water heater would still kinda work and give hot water, too, but you might notice it running out quickly. Sure enough, the PO had hosed up and reversed them on installation.
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Oct 27, 2016 00:48
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Partycat posted:7 is not recognized as a thing as far as I know and hell run fiber if you're going to do that. TIA/EIA does not recognize Cat7, but it is a thing as far as ISO/IEC are concerned. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/IEC_11801#CAT7 The same standard defines Categories 8.1 and 8.2, which TIA does recognize. I totally agree with you though, there's no reason to go beyond Cat6 in a home unless you're just getting 6A to ensure higher quality retail cable. Odds are you won't actually terminate it to Cat6 standards anyways if you're doing it yourself. I'd be willing to bet that good 5e will probably handle 10G well enough that you wouldn't notice problems at normal home distances even though it technically isn't supported.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:20
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wolrah posted:TIA/EIA does not recognize Cat7, but it is a thing as far as ISO/IEC are concerned. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/IEC_11801#CAT7 I have 5e and I've had no issues with GigE. Of course my longest run is probably 80' from keystone to patch panel, so it's not like I'm really pushing the spec. I've found my issue was with cheating out on my switches. I have one in the wiring closet (literally the shelf in my closet) and one in my entertainment center, and I was getting all kinds of dropped packets on the wired side. Turns out cheap rear end "GigE" switches aren't that good. I have a repurposed Juniper in the closet I got from work (they were docomming them, should have grabbed two), but I had to replace the one in the entertainment center. I ended up with some kind of Netgear managed switch and haven't had issues since. HOWEVER, I'm slowly but surely transitioning to 5GHz wireless (almost done). 802.11ac for the clients that do that, 802.11n for the others. Except for my home lab, I really don't see a need for wired any longer since I'm migrated everything 5GHz. Right now, the only things I have wired are my Wireless Router, cable modem, NAS, and PS4. I was concerned about my Steam Link but it works great on 5GHz 802.11ac (and the game PC is running with a 3x3 ASUS 802.11ac card). Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 01:49
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5e is fully supported for GigE. Even Cat5 is. Somehow I've never actually experienced packet loss caused by a switch, even in 11 years of MSP work. I've had plenty of dead ports but the only loss-causing network devices I've ever found were hubs. I definitely can't deny that 5GHz WiFi is completely tolerable for a single user, even for something like a Steam Link. My bedroom only has one ethernet jack because it's a rental house and there are only so many walls I can put a wire down without major work that I don't feel like putting in to it, so everything attached to my TV in there is wireless. It's just fine if no one else is doing anything. It's not so fine when anyone else in the house is doing something else on the wireless network that involves significant traffic. The wired Steam Link on the main TV has no such problems, no matter what anyone's doing on the LAN it works fine.
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Oct 27, 2016 02:16
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To clarify, it was the poo poo switch dropping packets. It was "green" switch I bought from a brand I never heard of before. The ports kept going to sleep with a really small interval of inactivity. Plus it was like $20 or something so QA was surely a dream for this product. I'm sure it was defective in some way.
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Oct 27, 2016 02:37
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Wow all this cable poo poo is going so over my head. I literally never even thought about that angle to modern homes. Power sockets, plumbing in the bathroom and kitchen, at least one "internet hose" and something that stops you from getting really cold was about all I ever thought about in a home. Only ever lived in tiny 1950's apartments or a 1930's house. My internet cable pops out of a hole in the floor and tries to hide along the base board trim, as does my phone line. But, that actually seems reasonable to wire that all up to every major room just in case. What's it all hook up to though? Like you just connect all those cables to one source which connects to the outside world, or are you also having some internal network for... uh, other A/V or data purposes I can't even dream of?
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Oct 27, 2016 03:25
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They wired the phone jacks in my house with cat5e, but we don't use landlines. We do, however, use the network a lot for various devices, so I replaced the phone jacks with ethernet jacks. To answer your question, I have a switch in my HVAC closet. This is nice because it means I can put a hardwired wifi AP or other device anywhere there's a jack on the wall, which means pretty much anywhere. It's a largish house, so being able to drop a couple hard-wired APs without gymnastics is nice. And it means the entrance for my internet service doesn't have to be anywhere near my network gear, just has to be near a jack, which is a non-issue in this case.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 03:29
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Baronjutter posted:Wow all this cable poo poo is going so over my head. I literally never even thought about that angle to modern homes. Power sockets, plumbing in the bathroom and kitchen, at least one "internet hose" and something that stops you from getting really cold was about all I ever thought about in a home. Only ever lived in tiny 1950's apartments or a 1930's house. My internet cable pops out of a hole in the floor and tries to hide along the base board trim, as does my phone line. But, that actually seems reasonable to wire that all up to every major room just in case. What's it all hook up to though? Like you just connect all those cables to one source which connects to the outside world, or are you also having some internal network for... uh, other A/V or data purposes I can't even dream of? It works the same way as wifi, only cables are much faster and much more reliable. It generally connects to a router which also connects to the internet. You pull two wires from every outlet to it, it fits in a closet wherever, though higher and not blocked by metal/brick around it is better. It also allows the devices to send poo poo to each other - including A/V, backups and home automation, such as lights or AC. I use my network to play video (and videogames) so that it's running off the main system on a much lower-end system. Also I send controller input directly to the main system, but that's way too loving nerdy for most people. IoT is usually poo poo btw, you want a base unit controlling your poo poo that gets updated and stops access from outside.
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Oct 27, 2016 03:33
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Glad I bookmarked the crappy construction thread! *10 pages of cat 6 discussion
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Oct 27, 2016 03:35
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Burt Sexual posted:Glad I bookmarked the crappy construction thread! *10 pages of cat 6 discussion The cat6 is necessary because your wifi router encased in a 400lb block of concrete doesn't stand a chance of providing a usable signal. Cat6 suffers no such limitation.
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Oct 27, 2016 03:42
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No need to get... catty
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Oct 27, 2016 06:46
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ITT: a category 5 shitstorm
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Oct 27, 2016 06:51
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Could some of you home networking guys post pictures of your network closets?
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Oct 27, 2016 06:59
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TheMadMilkman posted:Could some of you home networking guys post pictures of your network closets?
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Oct 27, 2016 10:22
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Can I just get two wireless routers instead?! Another Derail: I want to make tin can lanterns, but with steel cans (baby formula). Can I do the hammer & nail like I see on GIS or do I need something more pokier?
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Oct 27, 2016 10:43
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peanut posted:Can I just get two wireless routers instead?! A hammer and nail will easily go through a big steel can. But I would be doubtful that the thick base will be able to vibrate loud enough to hear. You could cut both end off and use a cap made of baking paper to vibrate - though you'd have a risk of tearing out of the string if you pull too hard.
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Oct 27, 2016 10:47
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peanut posted:Another Derail: I want to make tin can lanterns, but with steel cans (baby formula). Can I do the hammer & nail like I see on GIS or do I need something more pokier? Tin cans have never been pure tin. They’re made of tinplate steel.
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Oct 27, 2016 10:49
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Economic Sinkhole posted:You need a permit to replace an existing fence? Lame. Yup. The permitting process in my city is absurd. Here's a reply I made about it in another thread: quote:I have to fill out a zoning and land use permit from the Zoning Board, part of the Department of Planning and Zoning. Economic Sinkhole posted:I recently replaced a section of fence not much bigger than what your picture shows myself. I spent one Saturday removing the broken fence and digging out the old footings, then the next weekend deepening the holes, setting posts and building the new fence and gate. If you're even remotely handy, building a fence is an easy and very satisfying project. Eh, fencing in late October or early November in VT isn't my idea of a fun time. It's cold, often rainy. Plus, I don't have a truck so I'd have to borrow one for a few weekends in a row to haul away the old fencing, bring in the new one, etc... And there's a good amount of fence...almost 200 feet worth, so that is a LOT of trips to the waste transfer station with just my dad's little Tacoma. Or I guess rent a construction dumpster. Still more effort than I want or have time to expend.
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Oct 27, 2016 13:15
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Darth Llama posted:To the guy with the warm water problem: are your cold in/hot out reversed in your water heater? We had a similar symptom at the sink farthest from the water heater where the cold stayed warm but didn't notice it elsewhere. The water heater would still kinda work and give hot water, too, but you might notice it running out quickly. Sure enough, the PO had hosed up and reversed them on installation. It's the sink closest to the water heater. Not another plumbing fixture in the house has this problem, not in the least. I didn't get a chance to temp the water but I can say for sure the kitchen sink gives full cold. DrBouvenstein posted:fence post ( I don't have pics, but one of my neighbors had a fence that finally gave up in Hurricane Matthew. It was bowing in really bad, then they shored it up with their shed, then it finally fell down during Matthew. Now I can see into THEIR backyard-neighbor's porch until they fix that.
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Oct 27, 2016 15:11
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Do you home network guys want to start a new thread? Because there is already 2 pages of content here and it's in no danger of slowing down. Fence guy, what kind of terrible city do you live in, that replacing existing fence with an exact same fence requires a permit? I mean yes, city will be happy to take your money and issue construction permit for anything, but doing what you do is the last thing L&I will ever bother to pursue. I'd go ahead and start building if I were you. It's a ship of Theseus kind of situation, you should be allowed to repair existing structure, even if it ultimately replaces 100% of it.
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Oct 27, 2016 15:32
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Nitrox posted:Do you home network guys want to start a new thread? Because there is already 2 pages of content here and it's in no danger of slowing down. There's a home network thread already isn't there?
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Oct 27, 2016 15:36
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TheMadMilkman posted:Could some of you home networking guys post pictures of your network closets?  The cable modem used to fit in there, but for docsis 3.1 all the cableco had is that giant drat gateway. Yeah, I got lazy with a couple of the last runs and just terminated the cat5e and plugged it right into the router 
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Oct 27, 2016 15:40
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