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For those that are interested, I'm pretty sure I found the vacuum leak. The molded pcv elbow had split in half due to the super stiff replacement hose I put on 3 weeks ago. It had a 3/8ths sized hole in the side of it. Bodged with more of the super stiff hose I used before to get me to work tomorrow. Here is hopin'.
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Oct 28, 2016 07:05
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Cop Porn Popper posted:For those that are interested, I'm pretty sure I found the vacuum leak. The molded pcv elbow had split in half due to the super stiff replacement hose I put on 3 weeks ago. It had a 3/8ths sized hole in the side of it. Bodged with more of the super stiff hose I used before to get me to work tomorrow. Here is hopin'. This has been my experience with that car and engine. The intake and emissions tubing are all brittle as hell after 10 years.
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Oct 28, 2016 14:33
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Dumb question. Realistically how do you work on a truck at home without professional lifts or stuff? I bought a beauty of a truck from angryrobot's dad:  only problem i've run into so far is the front gas tank doesn't seem to want to switch (it's a dual tank truck) so I can only use the 10 gallon rear ATM. I'm trying to weigh the benefit of troubleshooting/replacing myself vs just taking it to a shop that will work on older trucks. cursory googling says the cost will be anywhere from 200 to 700 bucks to fix fuel tank related problems... which seems kind of steep considering the price of the parts. do i just need ramps and jacks?
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Oct 28, 2016 20:20
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Yes. With a pair of ramps, good jack, and jackstands, there isn't much you can't do on any vehicle. It just might involve more time laying on your back than
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Oct 28, 2016 20:34
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Speaking of which, are there any good scissor lifts that don't cost as much as a cheap beater car? Ramp lifts seem nice, but I also want to be able to work on the suspension when my car is off the ground E: All I can find are >6000 lbs or <2000 lbs. I just want 4000 lbs or so and to not pay $1,300 for a fancy jack The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 21:03
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The Door Frame posted:Speaking of which, are there any good scissor lifts that don't cost as much as a cheap beater car? Ramp lifts seem nice, but I also want to be able to work on the suspension when my car is off the ground No
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Oct 28, 2016 21:57
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I just got a 2016 Mazda 3 and I want to get new wheels and tires for it, right now it has 6.5x16 wheels and 205/60R16 tires and I want to get 7.5x18 wheels and 225/45R18 tires. The stock wheels have a 50mm offset and I was looking at this set of wheels which have a 45mm offset. https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whe...ModClar=i+Sport Would I be able to replace my current wheels with these and appropriate tires without running into any issues?
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Oct 28, 2016 23:10
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The Door Frame posted:Speaking of which, are there any good scissor lifts that don't cost as much as a cheap beater car? Ramp lifts seem nice, but I also want to be able to work on the suspension when my car is off the ground If you're going to get into installing a lift on your property, Do Your Homework first. Things people don't think about like concrete thickness and 3 phase power are really important and something someone selling a lift on CL won't care enough to tell you about. Who's the goon with the thread about having his own workshop and had mucho problems with the concrete floor not being thick enough? Maybe it was another forum, not sure.
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Oct 28, 2016 23:14
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The PO of my truck spray painted a bunch of the interior trim black, I'd like to get it back to the factory gray underneath. Can someone recommend a stripping compound that would work well for this application?
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Oct 28, 2016 23:17
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That's plastic trim? Hmm...the really good stuff will probably melt it. I might test out some lacquer thinner or mineral spirits (on an out-of sight spot) and see what happens.
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Oct 28, 2016 23:22
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Simple green works really well and isn't ultra abrasive to the underlying material if it's just a rattlecan job. Downside you have to kind of let it sit for a while to let it soak in
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Oct 28, 2016 23:53
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Razzled posted:Dumb question. Realistically how do you work on a truck at home without professional lifts or stuff? If it's fuel injected, you have one fuel pump in each tank. If it's carb, there's only the mechanical pump on the side of the engine block. Both have a fuel selector valve. I want to say it's on the drivers side frame rail. It'll be either the front fuel pump or the selector valve. Selector valve is cheap enough (if purchased online) and easy enough to just throw at it as part of troubleshooting; it's not when they'll fail, it's if. Also the rear tank should be 18-19 gallons, not 10. If it does wind up being the front fuel pump, that's one of the easiest tanks in the world to drop, though if it's got more than a little fuel in it it'll be a 2 person job. A quick diagnosis would be to listen for a humming or buzzing from the tank when you turn the key on with it set to the front tank. It may only do it for a few seconds without the engine running. If you hear it, the fuel pump is probably working. If it's an OEM pump, it'll be pretty quiet and you may need to have someone under the truck. You don't need a lift for anything on that truck, everything is very easy to get to. You don't even need ramps unless you're 500 pounds and can't slide under it. Jack stands would be a good idea for brake jobs and suspension work. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 01:31
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If it's fuel injected, you have one fuel pump in each tank. If it's carb, there's only the mechanical pump on the side of the engine block. Both have a fuel selector valve. I want to say it's on the drivers side frame rail. It'll be either the front fuel pump or the selector valve. Selector valve is cheap enough (if purchased online) and easy enough to just throw at it as part of troubleshooting; it's not when they'll fail, it's if. Sweet thanks! I feel a lot better now about doing it myself. Dropping the tank while it's full is gonna suck, i dont have a tranny jack :[
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Oct 29, 2016 01:55
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MaxxBot posted:I just got a 2016 Mazda 3 and I want to get new wheels and tires for it, right now it has 6.5x16 wheels and 205/60R16 tires and I want to get 7.5x18 wheels and 225/45R18 tires. The stock wheels have a 50mm offset and I was looking at this set of wheels which have a 45mm offset. Tire Rack has a simulator where you can put different wheels on your car. Also you can call them and ask they are pretty good at advice.
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Oct 29, 2016 02:11
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MaxxBot posted:I just got a 2016 Mazda 3 and I want to get new wheels and tires for it, right now it has 6.5x16 wheels and 205/60R16 tires and I want to get 7.5x18 wheels and 225/45R18 tires. The stock wheels have a 50mm offset and I was looking at this set of wheels which have a 45mm offset. willtheyfit.com and the various mazda forums are your best bet.
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Oct 29, 2016 02:12
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Razzled posted:Sweet thanks! I feel a lot better now about doing it myself. Dropping the tank while it's full is gonna suck, i dont have a tranny jack :[ See if there's a bolt on the bottom somewhere, they sometimes have a drain plug. Otherwise... yeah, get some help and rent a tranny jack.
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Oct 29, 2016 03:26
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I don't think you can rent those. It's more of a "per use" payment. 
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Oct 29, 2016 04:30
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Asked a similar question in the chat thread, but this is a really dumb question so... How silly is it to buy an "almost finished restoring it" 65' Corvair Coupé with "a lot of spares" assuming that it's complete? In the US, not very. But I'm in Europe and have to rely on getting parts from the US which means 100% more expensive after shipping and customs. Some old dude selling it unfinished for $2700 due to illness. I didn't know anything about the Corvair before, but it's a cool blend of European and American styles. I generally don't care for big American cars over here because frankly they look out of place. It kinda reminds me of a Karmann Ghia as well. Seems easy to work on as well.
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Oct 29, 2016 09:37
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MrOnBicycle posted:Asked a similar question in the chat thread, but this is a really dumb question so... In general, unfinished projects sell for way less than what's been put into them so far, but you're at the mercy of what's been done so far, and to what standard. They may have dealt with a lot of stuff already, or they may have made things worse and added more jobs for you to do. You need to go take a good look at it and assess whether you think it's worth it to you.
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Oct 29, 2016 11:50
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I've ordered and taken delivery of this bastard to get my stubborn axle out. (It has five arms, which I'm going to use. Pic only shows four.) My question is: when I bolt it to the hub (through the brake disc), can I use my wheel bolts, or do I need to do something else? It's the only wheel bolts I have, so I'd rather not gently caress them up. They're 60* taper, FWIW.
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Oct 30, 2016 14:05
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I'd use some generic bolts rather than your wheel bolts, yes.
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Oct 30, 2016 17:31
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I have a non-emergency need for a battery for a 2003 corolla. Is there anyplace besides Costco I should look? I'm pretty broke right now tbh.
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Oct 30, 2016 17:43
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InitialDave posted:I'd use some generic bolts rather than your wheel bolts, yes. Alrighty, I did a test fit, and there's another issue, the flange(?) in the center of the hub kinda impedes using the right size center disc thingie, so I think I need a bunch of washers or a nut to offset the puller from the hub anyways.  Can anyone recommend a good eBay bolts & nuts store? Preferably with cheap/free shipping to Denmarkia.
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Oct 30, 2016 17:55
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InitialDave posted:It depends on the "almost" and the "lot of spares". Talked to the guy and it's more work than I'm up for at the moment. It's mainly the parts cost that puts me off at the moment. If I lived in the US I'd get one in a heartbeat, but yeah. In other news: Noticed that the rear passenger footwell was soaking wet. No signs of leakage from the doors or nothing. Nothing else is at all wet. It's like someone spilled a bottle of water on that specific location. I'm going to see if it dries out and check next time it rains.
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Oct 30, 2016 18:39
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Does Denmark not have bulk bins at hardware stores? Finding generic nuts and washers in the appropriate threading and size would be nigh-trivial at a hardware store here. (Unless the lug nut threads are something fuckity)
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Oct 30, 2016 18:53
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Well, Danish hardware stores are useless because their language is incomprehensible: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_iixmqSBQw
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Oct 30, 2016 19:14
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Javid posted:Does Denmark not have bulk bins at hardware stores? 
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Oct 30, 2016 20:24
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That's it. I'm moving.
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Oct 30, 2016 21:43
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I have a 97 GMC Jimmy with what I believe is a 4L60-E automatic transmission. The transmission issues I've been having lately have been bizarre. First, it was roughly vibrating everything at random times. I asked my father about it and he said it was probably low on fluid. So I added some, but that didn't fix the issue right away. Eventually it smoothed itself out and everything was fine, until I drove the truck almost non stop for several hours on a road trip. By the time I got to where I was going, the transmission felt like it wouldn't go into overdrive, but would shift between the rest of the gears. I took it to my father's place and siphoned out some of the fluid and replaced it with the Lucas ATF additive. Well, now when it's in drive it locks into third gear. I can still manually shift between first, second, and third, and I still have reverse, but no overdrive at all. I'm not sure what is going on. Is this a common issue? What should I do?
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Oct 31, 2016 01:12
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I am looking at the 2017 RAV4 hybrid and the manual calls out Ten. Thousand. Miles. For the oil change interval. I believe the oil is 0W20 full synthetic. As long as you're not driving in heavy dust, taxi or police or delivery service, can you really push the oil change that far out?
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Oct 31, 2016 02:45
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It's not an uncommon recommended interval. Jeep recommends 10k miles with 5w-30. Honestly, what I'd do is change it at about 500 or 1000 miles, then drive 5000-7000 more (your comfort level) and send a sample to Blackstone Labs for $25. They'll break it down and make a recommendation on how much life it had left. Go from there.
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Oct 31, 2016 02:47
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Three-Phase posted:I am looking at the 2017 RAV4 hybrid and the manual calls out I go by the oil change reminder on my Saturn; it comes on anywhere between 7500-11000 depending how I drive it. The car has almost 160k on it, doesn't leak anything, loses about 1.5 quarts between oil changes (which is the lowest usage I've ever seen on my own cars), no smoke of any kind. I bought it with 66k. Oil these days is very good, though I've always run synthetic in it. Originally Mobil 1, now it gets Mobil 1 high mileage.
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Oct 31, 2016 03:01
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I'd probably be doing bi-weekly stick checks at the very least. Probably not a bad idea no matter the recommended interval. The lab analysis isn't a bad idea - can those guys also look at transmission fluid?
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Oct 31, 2016 03:16
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Yeah, getting the oil proffessionally analyzed is the only definitive answer you can get, especially on modern cars with tighter tolerances. 10,000 miles is a little crazy for a scheduled maintenance item as important as oil, it makes me think of those obnoxiously long maintenance intervals on the supercharged Minis that grenaded so many engines and ruined their reputation in America Also, what's the deal with cars losing significant amounts of oil? I've had my car for almost 3 years and it hasn't really lost much oil between changes, at least to my knowledge. My old Windstar burned oil like a Captain Planet villain because the engine block was cracked, my sister's old Jeep only really lost oil because the rear main seal failed and subsequently bricked the engine when she ignored her oil pressure gage, my brother's old Focus didn't really lose oil, and my girlfriend's E34 somehow managed to keep a pretty consistent oil level despite 2 cylinders losing compression. Where does the oil go on everyone else's cars?
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Oct 31, 2016 03:17
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Raluek posted:Make a thread when you get working on it! My daily is a 4-door non-SS one of those. Almost two months late, but  Almost completely cleaned out. The paint looks way worse up close (note the crusty lower fender) but for the price we paid I can't complain.
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Oct 31, 2016 03:23
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The Door Frame posted:Also, what's the deal with cars losing significant amounts of oil? I've had my car for almost 3 years and it hasn't really lost much oil between changes, at least to my knowledge. My old Windstar burned oil like a Captain Planet villain because the engine block was cracked, my sister's old Jeep only really lost oil because the rear main seal failed and subsequently bricked the engine when she ignored her oil pressure gage, my brother's old Focus didn't really lose oil, and my girlfriend's E34 somehow managed to keep a pretty consistent oil level despite 2 cylinders losing compression. Where does the oil go on everyone else's cars? Worn oil rings that don't scrape the cylinder walls clean, leaving oil on the cylinder wall to be burned; leaking valve stem seals that let oil leak down into the combustion chamber. Those are kinda the two main ones, along with unnoticed oil leaks, be they to the outside or into the coolant through busted head gaskets. The bigger the engine, the more oil it can burn without producing noticeable smoke (because there's more air to burn it with). Big engines can burn quarts per gas tank with clear exhaust; smaller ones can use that much, but you'll probably notice.
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Oct 31, 2016 03:31
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Three-Phase posted:I'd probably be doing bi-weekly stick checks at the very least. Probably not a bad idea no matter the recommended interval. The lab analysis isn't a bad idea - can those guys also look at transmission fluid? I check mine every week (though I also average 800-1000 miles a week), and I've had it analyzed a few times. Reports have always come back saying the oil is still in good shape and could be pushed a bit further. The oil consumption has been pretty steady since I bought it too. I don't exactly baby it either, it sees 6k+ pretty often if I'm getting on a highway or passing someone (so several times a day). And yes, Blackstone, at least, can also do tranny fluid. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 03:34
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OneStopShop posted:Almost two months late, but Looks like a good project. They actually make reproduction fenders for these now, which is good because a few years ago Classic Indistries' catalog went '63, '64, '66, '67.... If you're in a non-rusty state and paid less than like $4k for that body I'll be pretty jealous. What are your plans? I still think you should make a thread. E: Oh yeah, forgot you had inherited it. That's a pretty steep price for a car, don't you think?
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Oct 31, 2016 04:02
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The Door Frame posted:Yeah, getting the oil proffessionally analyzed is the only definitive answer you can get, especially on modern cars with tighter tolerances. On my 327 it oozes out through the valve cover gaskets, puddling on the intake manifold. I think the rear main seal also seeps.
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Oct 31, 2016 05:28
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Godholio posted:On my 327 it oozes out through the valve cover gaskets, puddling on the intake manifold. I think the rear main seal also seeps. On my SBC it's that stupid aftermarket chrome timing cover. Doesn't make a good seal with the oil pan. My Ford leaks from... just about everywhere. I think the valley pan gasket is letting the most by, now that I've fixed the oil filter adapter, but at this point I think that's the only part of the engine that isn't leaking right now. Each vehicle drips about a quart out per thousand miles.
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Oct 31, 2016 05:38
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