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Trabant posted:Hmm. Internet seems to generally agree with you. I'm just hesitant of using a fancy species that I'm about to stain the hell out of.
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Nov 1, 2016 01:36
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Hey guys novice to woodworking here I'm trying to create this design for a small wooden box, but I'm a little unsure how to make it into reality. I made an illustration of what I want in Blender so here's what's up  The height of the box would be about 10cm. The red lines here indicate where I imagine where the cut-off point for the different wooden parts will be. However, the thing I'm not sure about is how to make the slight indentation on the top and the bottom. I can't imagine chiseling or carving it out is a good idea. And cutting the box into even smaller parts seems like a bad idea too. Any thoughts? I really like the indentation as a concept so I'd prefer not to ditch it, even if it becomes a bit of an obstacle edit: actually oops i meant to have the top look like this instead (see if you can spot the difference!)  should I have the flat top piece be a separate piece of wood and then clamp it in the middle of the 4 side pieces? that seems like the most sensible thing to do. ps I don't know the correct woodworking terminology since I've been learning this stuff by doing Minorkos fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 02:21
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I'd suggest making an actual, regular rectangular box first, then adding moulding to create the ornamentation you want. It's a lot easier to build up the shape you want than it is to cut away the shape you don't want, if that makes sense. All of the moulding can be made by making a few long strips of wood that have tapered profiles, then making 45° mitered cuts to turn them into appropriate-length sections to go onto the box. Then you just glue the sections onto the box. Measure carefully, and creep up on your cuts: intentionally cut too long, test fit it, remove a small amount, test fit, etc. until you get the right length.
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Nov 1, 2016 03:03
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd suggest making an actual, regular rectangular box first, then adding moulding to create the ornamentation you want. It's a lot easier to build up the shape you want than it is to cut away the shape you don't want, if that makes sense. All of the moulding can be made by making a few long strips of wood that have tapered profiles, then making 45° mitered cuts to turn them into appropriate-length sections to go onto the box. Then you just glue the sections onto the box. I don't think I'm familiar with this moulding thing. It doesn't help that I've learned to do most of this stuff in my native language so most of the terms you used are unfamiliar to me. Does moulding require any special equipment? I'm mostly using my dad's old stuff to build so I don't know if he has something like that lying around
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Nov 1, 2016 03:28
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wormil posted:Walnut turns well, stains/dyes well, ebonizes well. Love walnut, if not its price... Thanks, I'll add it to the list of possibilities. Parts Kit posted:I did the mallet out of red oak and it tears out like crazy. The mallet even with a lot of sanding is still rough as gently caress. It also was just hell on the tools for whatever reason and I had to sharpen them a couple times during the turning of the handle. Well, red oak is now definitely in the No column. You guys saved me from a bunch of frustration, thank you!
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Nov 1, 2016 03:36
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Minorkos posted:I don't think I'm familiar with this moulding thing. It doesn't help that I've learned to do most of this stuff in my native language so most of the terms you used are unfamiliar to me. Does moulding require any special equipment? I'm mostly using my dad's old stuff to build so I don't know if he has something like that lying around "Trim" is another word for it. It's just wood that you cut a profile into and then apply on top of other things. See e.g. this image as an example.
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Nov 1, 2016 03:56
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Trabant posted:Love walnut, if not its price... Thanks, I'll add it to the list of possibilities.
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Nov 1, 2016 04:16
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There's a cabinet place here that regularly tosses 2x4x8 chunks of walnut, mahogany, and other weird stuff and I have to actively force myself not to go collect more because I'm out of room in the wood bin for those decent chunks.
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Nov 1, 2016 04:53
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Javid posted:There's a cabinet place here that regularly tosses 2x4x8 chunks of walnut, mahogany, and other weird stuff and I have to actively force myself not to go collect more because I'm out of room in the wood bin for those decent chunks. That sounds like a treasure trove.
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Nov 1, 2016 05:02
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Minorkos posted:Hey guys novice to woodworking here A follow-up question to this: I want to apply a very smooth, clear sheen finish to this thing, but I'm not sure what product to use. I'd imagine the small size of the box closes some options out. I don't want the surface to look bubbly or uneven. This is the look I'm trying to get:  I also think I will stain the wood with a color if that matters
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Nov 1, 2016 11:04
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I built a vise for my workbench! Before installation:  ...it's pretty poo poo.  I haven't been able to fasten any material that I couldn't just pull back out again. I haven't tried actually working anything fastened in it yet, but I assume it'll just be frustrating. Part of the problem is probably that the holes I initially drilled for the supporting aluminum rods weren't perfectly square to the jaws, so I had to sand them bigger to let it slide properly. And that obviously also lets it move around more.
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Nov 1, 2016 16:11
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Parts Kit posted:Depending on the size you're aiming for and if you're okay with gluing together your own big block you might just be able to find some decent hunks of "scrap" walnut at a local cabinet maker. There's one near me that sells their scrap and it's good wood and really cheap comparatively. I think I've gotten some 2.5 x 2.5 (ish) lengths of walnut from them before. The box will need to have about a 4" diameter, so that could potentially be quite a few chunks to glue up. Not opposed to it, I'd just need to locate a friendly cabinet maker in the Austin area. Speaking of the area, there's a guy in Waco selling mesquite stock. It's not my favourite based on the first thing I turned, but I appreciate his description: quote:make / manufacturer: God
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Nov 1, 2016 16:11
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Trabant posted:The box will need to have about a 4" diameter, so that could potentially be quite a few chunks to glue up. Not opposed to it, I'd just need to locate a friendly cabinet maker in the Austin area. Mesquite is ultra awesome
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Nov 1, 2016 16:32
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nielsm posted:I built a vise for my workbench! I think some leg or other really long vises suffer from the uneven jaw problem you are seeing there and it's usually solved by clamping something about the same thickness in the other side of the vise. You can use an offcut or make generalised spacers. Also to improve jaw grip I use a piece of leather I got at a fabric store. My vise has maple lining the jaws and it's pretty slippery. I couldn't clamp anything in place without it moving around when I applied pressure to do planning or whatever but as soon as the leather goes in its rock solid. I just have a long strip that can cover both jaws and wrap under the workpiece but you could also glue it in place or staple/attach it across the top of the vise somehow and have it dangle down across the jaw so you can flip it out of the way if it's not needed.
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Nov 1, 2016 20:22
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Squibbles posted:I think some leg or other really long vises suffer from the uneven jaw problem you are seeing there and it's usually solved by clamping something about the same thickness in the other side of the vise. You can use an offcut or make generalised spacers. Yeah, I was always taught to counter-clamp like that when using those vices. Helps the clamping action, and puts less strain on the vice itself.
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Nov 1, 2016 21:27
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Squibbles posted:Also to improve jaw grip I use a piece of leather I got at a fabric store. My vise has maple lining the jaws and it's pretty slippery. I couldn't clamp anything in place without it moving around when I applied pressure to do planning or whatever but as soon as the leather goes in its rock solid. I just have a long strip that can cover both jaws and wrap under the workpiece but you could also glue it in place or staple/attach it across the top of the vise somehow and have it dangle down across the jaw so you can flip it out of the way if it's not needed. https://www.theleatherguy.org/leather-hides/cow-leather/vegetable-tanned-leather Maybe the 7-8oz range? It will be heavy, and way heavier than fabric store leather, but not crazy heavy. I've bought from him before several times and have always been happy with what I got. Also good for making strop sticks and whatever. Barge cement is good for adhering it to other stuff.
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Nov 1, 2016 22:17
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Anyone ever come across dividers with one round, sharpened leg like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Th6Cu0sqhjs&t=856s I figured Lie Nielsen would make them, but no. e: I've got a bunch of old dividers and I'll probably regrind one to work like that, I'd just never seen one quite like that before Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 23:13
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I took down an obnoxious limb from what looks to be an eastern white oak tree in the back yard and noticed the heartwood had an interesting color and pattern to it. Has anyone tried turning white oak? Just want to make sure it's not nearly the ungodly pain in the rear end red oak was before I go trying to make pens out of it.
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Nov 2, 2016 00:50
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I got tired of trying to find leather to fit my vises so I used cork instead. So far so good.
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Nov 2, 2016 00:51
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Here are a couple of pieces that should be good for vise jaw pads. Both links are for 12x12 inch pieces and are $11 each before shipping, so not bad all in all. 7-8oz https://www.theleatherguy.org/pre-cut-natural-leather-cow-hide-veg-tan-12-x-12-project-piece-7-8-oz-smooth Heavier 9-10oz https://www.theleatherguy.org/pre-cut-natural-leather-cow-hide-veg-tan-12-x-12-project-piece-9-10-oz-smooth For reference the thin leather you see at cloth/sewing supply stores is probably 1-2oz. So this is significantly heavier. You will need something sharp to cut them easily, if you've got a friend with a decent mat cutter (for framing art) they work well in my experience. Also the pieces linked are vegetable tanned so they won't have any weird chemicals in them. While you are at it go ahead and get yourself some frog leather. He usually has more colors than this, but this is the only listing at the moment. https://www.theleatherguy.org/frog-leather-black-hide-100-genuine-1-1-1-2-oz-exotic-inlay-bulk
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Nov 2, 2016 01:19
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What do you do with frog leather? Would y'all recommend buying or building a vice? It's not something I've seen bench making articles discuss. Most seem to assume pre-built, but they don't look that hard to make?
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Nov 2, 2016 02:59
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Wonder how the gently caress someone skinned a frog mostly. I guess you could make a wallet or something.
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Nov 2, 2016 03:21
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ColdPie posted:What do you do with frog leather? Probably use it for inlays since it has a nice pattern and probably isn't very strong on its own.
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Nov 2, 2016 03:57
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Parts Kit posted:Wonder how the gently caress someone skinned a frog mostly. I guess you could make a wallet or something. Don't know, sounds like it'd be easy to rip it.
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Nov 2, 2016 04:10
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Hypnolobster posted:Anyone ever come across dividers with one round, sharpened leg like this? 99% sure those were shop made. Use a high quality divider, like a Starrett or Brown and Sharpe that are made of tool steel so the sharpened side will hold an edge. Cheap dividers are made of mild or low carbon steel and really suck for general use, they bend easy, and would never hold an edge. Parts Kit posted:Has anyone tried turning white oak? Long, long, time ago. I still have the piece around somewhere but it turned fine and polished nicely. I would happily turn some again, if I had some.
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Nov 2, 2016 04:26
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ColdPie posted:What do you do with frog leather? Frog purse, obviously https://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/pr...rses/diaper_bag I saw one of those on craigslist earlier this year. Lead down an interesting path of bizarre leather goods until I found out about Kangaroo nutsack change purses.
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Nov 2, 2016 04:34
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Squibbles posted:That Indonesian Mahogany I saw on Craigslist a few weeks ago was reposted again so I got in touch with the guy since I couldn't resist anymore. There's a custom furniture maker here in town that has TONS of stuff that looks a lot like that and some big laminated pieces made out of various 2" hardwod. Said it was mostly Indonesian mahogany and other tropical hardwoods, he bought a 40' shipping conex full of it from Seattle. It was broken down crates from Boeing that they receive airplane parts and tooling in.
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Nov 2, 2016 05:47
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ColdPie posted:Would y'all recommend buying or building a vice? It's not something I've seen bench making articles discuss. Most seem to assume pre-built, but they don't look that hard to make? If you can afford the cost of a good industrially-made vise base, that's probably by far the better choice if you just want to work on projects. Building your own may seem simple (it's just a threaded rod with handle, to compress/expand the available space between two jaws) but the experience I've had is that since it is a mechanical contraption, you need to be very accurate, and it's easy to end up making something that doesn't track properly. With an industrially-made one you just have to add wooden plates to the jaws and mount it, and it's done. The more expensive models also have quick-release mechanisms. Another limitation of building your own is that regular threaded rod usually has rather tight thread, but for a vise you may want a bigger thread to let it run in/out faster. You can of course also make your own wooden threaded rod, I know that's the traditional way in European workbenches. But definitely go ahead with making your own, if you want to try your hands at mechanical stuff. The materials for a basic construction like mine can be had for quite cheap.
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Nov 2, 2016 09:03
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Another option for making your own is you can buy leveling legs for scaffolding, which is basically a giant threaded rod. Jay Bates has an article and video on how he built his using that method. http://jayscustomcreations.com/2016/07/workbench-leg-vise/ He gets a kit from another youtuber, but making the other parts looks easy enough.
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Nov 2, 2016 15:20
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keep it down up there! posted:Another option for making your own is you can buy leveling legs for scaffolding, which is basically a giant threaded rod.
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Nov 2, 2016 16:23
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Parts Kit posted:That reminds me, what are some good ways to get adjustable leveling legs for a work bench? The slab in the garage isn't very consistent in a few spots. I always use T nuts and bolts whenever I need leveling feet on something. Cheap and easy.
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Nov 2, 2016 18:23
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Parts Kit posted:That reminds me, what are some good ways to get adjustable leveling legs for a work bench? The slab in the garage isn't very consistent in a few spots. I use some 3x3 wood backed veneer pieces to put under the offending leg, even if I move the bench it's not that big of a deal to move and adjust these shims. Adjustable leg hardware seems unnecessary to me, but that's my .02
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Nov 2, 2016 18:35
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Awesome! Thanks to you both!
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Nov 2, 2016 22:27
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GEMorris posted:I use some 3x3 wood backed veneer pieces to put under the offending leg, even if I move the bench it's not that big of a deal to move and adjust these shims. Adjustable leg hardware seems unnecessary to me, but that's my .02 "If thine leg offends thee, cut it off." - Leviticus 04:20
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Nov 2, 2016 23:20
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TheDon01 posted:There's a custom furniture maker here in town that has TONS of stuff that looks a lot like that and some big laminated pieces made out of various 2" hardwod. Said it was mostly Indonesian mahogany and other tropical hardwoods, he bought a 40' shipping conex full of it from Seattle. It was broken down crates from Boeing that they receive airplane parts and tooling in. Hmm very interesting. We are not too far from Seattle and I think there are some aerospace industries around here too. Though any company that gets a lot of stuff from overseas might see wood like that i guess
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Nov 3, 2016 00:01
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We're moving soon and I'm likely going to turn the den in the new place into a workshop for a few years until I can get one built outside, given that the garage is too small. What sort of concerns do I need to have about woodworking indoors for an extended period of time? I'm not planning on doing much with power tools inside (got a porch right outside for anything like that), but I'm just planning on making sure the vent covers have filters on them for now and putting down a cheap hard flooring. (or polishing the concrete slab up) Anything else big I'm missing in my plan?
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Nov 3, 2016 01:03
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If it's going to be just hand tools it shouldn't be too big an issue. I had my shop in the corner of the living room and a spare bedroom before, just did all my sanding and routing outside. I would suggest a decently sized dedicated shopvac so you don't track shavings and whatnot everywhere. If dust isn't a problem the only other issue I can think of is noise, you mentioned a slab floor so I'm guessing ground/basement level but what rooms are adjacent/above? Are you talking about forced air heat/ac registers? They make some easy flat magnetic sheets to cover or filter those.
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Nov 3, 2016 02:18
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I bought a square of linoleum and put it over a corner of my living room to make a de facto workshop. Easy to sweep all the stray chips onto the lino and pop em into a garbage bag The only dusty thing I do is sawing though.
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Nov 3, 2016 15:48
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TheDon01 posted:If it's going to be just hand tools it shouldn't be too big an issue. I had my shop in the corner of the living room and a spare bedroom before, just did all my sanding and routing outside. I would suggest a decently sized dedicated shopvac so you don't track shavings and whatnot everywhere. If dust isn't a problem the only other issue I can think of is noise, you mentioned a slab floor so I'm guessing ground/basement level but what rooms are adjacent/above? Under the master bedroom but not planning on working late at night or anything, it's next to the garage and utility room. I have a nice shopvac, the top-end Ridgid, so it shouldn't be too bad to clean up. Thinking of rigging up a deal to point the hose at whatever I'm sanding/etc anyway. TheDon01 posted:Are you talking about forced air heat/ac registers? They make some easy flat magnetic sheets to cover or filter those. Ah, good call.
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Nov 3, 2016 18:47
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One of the best ways to reduce sanding dust (which to me is the absolute worst dust for an in-house shop) is to get very familiar with using a card scraper. It can drastically reduce the amount of sanding you ever need to do.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:50
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