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SRM posted:I've wanted to do a Knight for a while, and after getting the Renegade box set at NOVA and doing some homework on Knight schemes, I found one I really liked from Epic: Dude if I were Noomi I would be scared shitless of that thing
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Oct 30, 2016 22:54
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Ignite Memories posted:Dude if I were Noomi I would be scared shitless of that thing Nooms knows no fear 
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Oct 30, 2016 23:02
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SRM posted:...frustration... Without suffering there is no loving sick and epic hams...
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Oct 30, 2016 23:12
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That knight rocks SRM! Now paint up some Lamenter allies for your Ultras 
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Oct 30, 2016 23:17
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Zark the Damned posted:That knight rocks SRM! Now paint up some Lamenter allies for your Ultras  fun fact, Army Painter Demonic Yellow is the single weakest, streakiest, shittiest paint I've ever usedNichol posted:Without suffering there is no loving sick and epic hams...
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Oct 30, 2016 23:34
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I painted a slaughterbrute. I'll probably clean up the larger spikes, but 90% of the model was done just by drybrushing and washing. I wanted to get him done quickly, but try and see if I could get something I was happy with. I dig the result and it looks great on the table.   I think the contrast on the back could be a bit better. I went for blood for the blood god in the octed instead of a bright wash that might glow and stand out.
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Oct 31, 2016 00:13
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Lot of really dope poo poo these last few posts. 
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Oct 31, 2016 01:40
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ijyt posted:Never once have I seen a finished model where I'd have known zenith all priming was used unless they told me. The one time it was obvious was a model that has been painted with just glazes, but it looked tabletop quality at best. Still haven't been convinced that it's worth the extra time. I found it saves some times as the painter mainly because it gives hints of how light would fall on the model instead of trying to figure it out. This is especially so with OSL where it gives me a better concept how the model will fill with brightness. Also added benefit, you don't have all black, grey, or white primed models when playing with them in casual games and people can tell what the models are because of the built in shadows and highlights you get from zential. And it doesn't take a lot more time with an airbrush. It's taking your dark color and adding white to it to made the shades. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 01:55
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Is this a decent entry set of brushes for $30? I'm getting the masters brush cleaner with them as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069FC9FO/ e: And this seems the best compressor I can find for under $200. The main complaint from reviews is the on/off being hard to reach. https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/ goodness fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 02:05
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goodness posted:Is this a decent entry set of brushes for $30? I'm getting the masters brush cleaner with them as well. Those five packs of the cheaper small watercolor brushes are a good jumping off point, yeah. They'll eventually conk out on you even if you take good care of them, but they're a good ratio of quality vs price. I chewed through a few packs of them in the first couple years of painting. Once you're deeper in it's definitely worth it to spend the same amount on a couple nicer individual kolinsky sable brushes, but even then I like to keep a bunch of those da Vinci type brushes for things like basecoats and less meticulous stuff.
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Oct 31, 2016 03:07
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I'm not very good at painting, but I'm quite happy how my Maghariba Guard turned out:
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Oct 31, 2016 09:18
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Cross-posting from the oath thread. I used GW's Youtube channel's painting instructions for the Ghouls and Crypt Horrors. Simple and looks good. Lord Hypnostache posted:
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Oct 31, 2016 18:56
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Oath complete!
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Slimnoid posted:Cross-posting some  Looks like I got a plan for Frostgrave terrain now. (they'll probably look frozen)
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Oct 31, 2016 20:05
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from the Terrain thread.
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goodness posted:Is this a decent entry set of brushes for $30? I'm getting the masters brush cleaner with them as well. That's the compressor I have. Its fine reaching the on/off switch. I actually just waited till I got a 50% off coupon for Dick Blick and bought it there for like $80 or something.
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Oct 31, 2016 20:50
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ijyt posted:I mean, you just brush the brush in the soap until you get a nice lather than rinse and repeat until clean. I don't get what's not to get. All it ends up doing is colouring the soap. My brushes still end up frayed, thinning my paints just capillary draws it up into the ferrule faster . sonicator generally shakes it out but not always. x posting from Historicals thread. Finished my Pak 40    I love those oak leaves Slimnoid
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Nov 1, 2016 02:08
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Kommando posted:All it ends up doing is colouring the soap. My brushes still end up frayed, thinning my paints just capillary draws it up into the ferrule faster . What is the guy with the rocket launcher doing? "Hey guys we are shooting at! Just look at this thing! Flippin' A, right?!?"
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Nov 1, 2016 03:27
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It's actually a rangefinder and not some bizarre attempt to blow up something to his side.
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Nov 1, 2016 05:15
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vkeios posted:It's actually a rangefinder and not some bizarre attempt to blow up something to his side. Yeah, either end of the tube is a lens that show an image to the user. You then adjust the lenses until both images are in focus, and because the unit is a fixed width you can now calculate the distance to the target - usually the rangefinder would do this mechanically.
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Nov 1, 2016 06:10
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This immediately brought to mind this clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36IxAWko46A&t=57s Holding your rocket launcher sideways is a viable strategy. Also, the model looks great. I really like the muzzle blast effect, I think it look more reasonable there than on the more futuristic weapons which shouldn't work on gunpowder.
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Nov 1, 2016 14:26
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I'm halfway through painting a squad of minis and I've decided the colors are too dark and want to start over. I've got some concentrated Simple Green, what dilution should I use to strip them?
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Nov 1, 2016 17:51
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mango sentinel posted:I'm halfway through painting a squad of minis and I've decided the colors are too dark and want to start over. I always pour straight out of the bottle, unless you've got some sort of concentrated gel. I pour it into a new bottle to reuse after the model is done soaking.
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Nov 1, 2016 18:22
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Does anyone itt know how bright Lupercal Green is compared to Incubii Darkness and Kabalite Green?
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Nov 1, 2016 18:47
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I just finished up my unit of 12 Reiksguard. I had to mix in some Knights Panther bits because that's just what I have, but I'm pretty happy with the results nonetheless:     
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Nov 1, 2016 22:15
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I got a bunch of Bolt Action guys and have no idea if they have been washed. Unfortunately they are already glued together so I don't know how easy it would be to wash them
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Nov 1, 2016 23:23
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Dip them in simple green, scrub with toothbrush if they sturdy enough to take it, rinse. Works with any soap.
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Nov 1, 2016 23:27
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SRM posted:I just finished up my unit of 12 Reiksguard. I had to mix in some Knights Panther bits because that's just what I have, but I'm pretty happy with the results nonetheless: These guys are looking solid. Almost makes me want to dig out my Warhams and get more of them painted up for my KOW force (but this month will likely be a 40k month, have stuff to prepare for the goonmeet).
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Nov 1, 2016 23:28
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Hot tip, don't get any enamel pigment fixer on to the GW texture paints, it'll just have them crumble straight off the base.
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Nov 2, 2016 00:39
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Zark the Damned posted:These guys are looking solid. Almost makes me want to dig out my Warhams and get more of them painted up for my KOW force (but this month will likely be a 40k month, have stuff to prepare for the goonmeet). Thanks! Not gonna lie though, after painting these guys and building a bunch of Empire characters, I'm itching to paint spacemans again.
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Nov 2, 2016 01:11
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Wrapped up a long term invoice with a client so I spoiled myself. I've wanted a fine-detail brush for a while, so I bought an Iwata HP-C Plus Badger for the base coats, and this guy for the rest. It's very pretty. 
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Nov 2, 2016 05:51
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Public service announcement: If anyone is looking for a Patriot 105, they routinely go on sale ($45 range) around the Black Friday to Christmas timeframe.Slimnoid posted:Cross-posting some nesbit37 posted:I actually just waited till I got a 50% off coupon for Dick Blick and bought it there for like $80 or something.
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Nov 2, 2016 20:49
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Hello thread! Been lurking here and the model kits thread and have posted there yesterday because I got a new badger 150 airbrush and am wanting to learn. Since I do a lot of model kits I posted there but today IU got a gift from someone! A friend was visiting and I asked him if he had a couple of miniature figurines from back in our rd&d days. He said sure and gifted me this set. I guess I could use advice about how to go about that. That is try to strip the paint off of them or just primne them. I know it's probably a shame to do that but they where not mad eby hand. he bought some battletech game back in the day that came with these prepainted. So is it possible to just strip them bare? I guess priming on top would kill some tdetail but maybe for practice it's the simplest way? Thanks!!
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Nov 2, 2016 20:55
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berzerkmonkey posted:That stuff is great looking! Where did you find the pumpkins? The pumpkins are from Reaper, Secret Weapon, and HO-scale from Scenery Express. I made molds of them because I knew I'd need a lot, so that saves a lot on cost in the long run. If you're curious on how I painted them up, I kept it pretty simple on account of doing a lot of batch-painting: Reaper Rust Brown > GW Reikland Fleshshade > Rust Brown painted from halfway up > Coat d' Arms Flame Orange painted near the top. Stems are white > black wash > brown wash > brown/green mix wash. Green glow is GW Snot Green > P3 Necrotite Green > GW Scorpion Green.
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Nov 2, 2016 21:09
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Iznogood posted:Hello thread! Been lurking here and the model kits thread and have posted there yesterday because I got a new badger 150 airbrush and am wanting to learn. Since I do a lot of model kits I posted there but today IU got a gift from someone! With pre painted Miniatures quite often you cannot strip off the paint that is already there and so it is simply easier to Prime over it and then start your own paint job.
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Nov 3, 2016 03:05
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Indolent Bastard posted:With pre painted Miniatures quite often you cannot strip off the paint that is already there and so it is simply easier to Prime over it and then start your own paint job. Yeah got told that in the other thread. Oh well I'll try because what have I got to lose? But it's all for practice so I'll just try everything. Thanks!
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Nov 3, 2016 09:46
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You can strip them by using a very quick dunk in acetone. If you do it too long they get floppy tho. I've stripped a bunch of Heroclix this way.
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Nov 3, 2016 12:30
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El Estrago Bonito posted:You can strip them by using a very quick dunk in acetone. If you do it too long they get floppy tho. I've stripped a bunch of Heroclix this way. Unless the sweatshop labour really gooped on the paint I personally wouldn't risk this, but glad to know I have an option if the need arises.
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Nov 3, 2016 14:21
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Just ruined a few minis with fuzzy primer 
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Nov 3, 2016 15:06
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mango sentinel posted:Just ruined a few minis with fuzzy primer Strip them and try again. You could also take a toothbrush to them and try and get the fuzz of while leaving the primer on.
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Nov 3, 2016 15:09
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How do I strip primer from a plastic mini?
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Nov 3, 2016 15:10
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mango sentinel posted:Just ruined a few minis with fuzzy primer same I used a friends army painter primer and tbh... it was kinda lovely my halfords primer designed for cars was way smoother
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Nov 3, 2016 15:12
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