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mango sentinel posted:How do I strip primer from a plastic mini? What kind of primer is it? Simple Green takes Krylon off for me
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Nov 3, 2016 15:14
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| # ? May 12, 2024 11:48 |
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mango sentinel posted:How do I strip primer from a plastic mini? Same way you take paint off any other model. Simple Green or Dettol depending where you are. Leave it in overnight and scrub it off with a toothbrush after 24 hours. The OP has info about it if you're still unsure: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3705692#post442594521 On just Simple Green: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=126494&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post412328648 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=126494&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post412362416
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Nov 3, 2016 15:17
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I guess ruined is a bit strong, but they're certainly textured. Also I didn't realize simple green would strip primer effectively. Thanks guys. It's not even humid today, I think I was just spraying from a little too far.
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Nov 3, 2016 15:27
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Auto primer is the best primer. Those speciality primers are bunk. If I want a specific color as a base coat I'll use lotion then workable fixative. Anyway, I just got some Tamiya clear red and I'm gonna put it on acryluc. Do I need to do anything before I apply the tamiya? I though it was "against the rules" to do solvent based paint on top of acrylic...
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Nov 3, 2016 15:33
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mango sentinel posted:I guess ruined is a bit strong, but they're certainly textured. Those don't honestly look that bad. I've certainly painted much worse when it comes to table top quality troops. Though they were gaunts, so having a couple of sketchy ones don't really stand out all that much from a big pile.
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Nov 3, 2016 15:37
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mango sentinel posted:I guess ruined is a bit strong, but they're certainly textured. Yeah, that's one thing that can cause fuzziness like that. How long did you shake the rattlecan of primer? That can also affect how it goes on. If you have the scratch, I highly recommend getting an airbrush and compressor setup. Makes priming an absolute breeze, especially if you want to experiment with zenithal priming for preshading, and humidity ceases to be a factor. Plus you can get some excellent blending/fading effects with thin enough paint. (It's taken the apparent death of my TC-828 compressor to make me realize how useless I am without an airbrush. ...Well, my compressor died and I picked the wrong spray primer to use on Bones minis and now I'm way behind on a project.)
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Nov 3, 2016 15:37
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SRM posted:Same way you take paint off any other model. Simple Green or Dettol depending where you are. Leave it in overnight and scrub it off with a toothbrush after 24 hours. The OP has info about it if you're still unsure: only get dettol if you can't find Fair Power spray it's so much better at stripping and easier to work with
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Nov 3, 2016 15:41
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Yeah, that's one thing that can cause fuzziness like that. How long did you shake the rattlecan of primer? That can also affect how it goes on. Speaking of Bones, that's primed Reaper minis just fine, but they get kind of weird and tacky afterwards. Is that just a side effect of the plastic formulation Reaper uses or what? Hasn't effected any actual painting aside from cat hairs sticking more often. An air brush would be cool, but I currently don't have a space where I could use one in the apartment. I'll keep an eye on the Patriot 105 to go on sale around Black Friday though.
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Nov 3, 2016 15:46
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I'm glad we're getting into the season for airbrush sales, because I want to pick one up myself. What's the difference between any given airbrush of a general quality? Is there any merit to buying a Krome over a 105 with an ultrafine needle in it?
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Nov 3, 2016 15:58
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Moola posted:only get dettol if you can't find Fair Power spray Not necessarily true any more, IIRC they changed the active ingredients and Power Spray isn't good any more? I could be misremembering though.
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Nov 3, 2016 16:05
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Zark the Damned posted:Not necessarily true any more, IIRC they changed the active ingredients and Power Spray isn't good any more? I could be misremembering though. Unfortunately this is the case. I hate brown dettol and really wish FPS still worked.
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Nov 3, 2016 16:09
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this is the worst news I have heard all day
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Nov 3, 2016 16:09
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If you're in the UK buy Biostrip. It behaves like nitromoors but doesn't melt plastic. I've left stuff in it for weeks. http://www.biostrip.co.uk/
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Nov 3, 2016 16:14
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Yeah, Biostrip 20 is the absolute best thing for stripping models, as long as they aren't resin. And if you have to use can primer, I recommend Halfords Matt Black.
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Nov 3, 2016 16:19
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halfords grey primer is also really good
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Nov 3, 2016 16:49
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DiHK posted:Auto primer is the best primer. Those speciality primers are bunk. If I want a specific color as a base coat I'll use lotion then workable fixative. Normally true, but IIRC Tamiya's lacquers use some primer-esque formula that is a bit more gentle than other lacquers. If you want to play it safe, I'd say seal the mini before applying.
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Nov 3, 2016 17:05
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Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? For my Warhams I'm just gonna throw down some PVA glue around their feet and dredge it in some sand. I just bought my first Malifaux kit though and want those to have a little more effort. What are some fundamentals I should know about basing? Do you guys normally decorate the base before attaching your mini? I do know to check gardening stores for to get less expensive flocking stuff, especially slate.
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Nov 3, 2016 17:14
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Yeah, Biostrip 20 is the absolute best thing for stripping models, as long as they aren't resin. And if you have to use can primer, I recommend Halfords Matt Black. Krylon primers have always done great by me, and I've even had okay luck with Rustoleum primers. I've also really liked GW's primers but I've only really used Macragge Blue and Rhinox Hide. They're spendy though. Army Painter's primers have been good to me so long as I've followed the instructions to the letter. mango sentinel posted:Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? I just use ballast from railroad supply/Woodland Scenics. I mix in some finer and coarser ballast, paint some watered down PVA glue on the base with a brush after assembly, then prime the whole thing. The primer seals in the basing material and if you're priming black, it'll also get into the recesses a bit and provide some shading for drybrushing later. I sometimes also put rocks (real pebbles or cut up corks) and other debris on the base if I want skulls or rubble or whatever. Adding grass or snow or something like that afterwards also really elevates a base, and is super easy. Just put some glue down after everything's all done and put some grass or snow on it, tap the model off and blow on it to make sure any loose flock is gone, and you're done. SRM fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 17:14
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mango sentinel posted:Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? Personally I use dried herbs for foliage and dried tea granules from used teabags for soil (mix various kinds for a more natural looking variety of soil types) with a VERY small amount of static grass   
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Nov 3, 2016 17:30
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mango sentinel posted:Shook the can a good 3-4 minutes. It's just Krylon flat and has been fine before, so I'm more inclined to say user error. My big recommendation if your airbrushing inside a small space is to get a collapsible fume hood. You spray with it running and it sucks most of the bullshit out a window
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Nov 3, 2016 17:33
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mango sentinel posted:Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? Woodland Scenics stuff goes a really long way. Now for small model count games I do like to look at stuff like fancy base inserts and resin bases.
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Nov 3, 2016 17:57
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w00tmonger posted:My big recommendation if your airbrushing inside a small space is to get a collapsible fume hood. You spray with it running and it sucks most of the bullshit out a window Seconded here. You can search Amazon for a "portable spray booth"; the one offered by Master Airbrush folds down into a handy case with a handle when not in use. Some of the compressors they offer are small enough to only take up a couple of cubic feet, even with the tank (and you can order tankless compressors, but those aren't recommended as highly as ones with tanks).
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Nov 3, 2016 18:05
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Neurolimal posted:Normally true, but IIRC Tamiya's lacquers use some primer-esque formula that is a bit more gentle than other lacquers. Thanks. BTW that's krylon, not lotion. The lotion goes in the basket.
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Nov 3, 2016 18:41
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Seconded here. You can search Amazon for a "portable spray booth"; the one offered by Master Airbrush folds down into a handy case with a handle when not in use. Some of the compressors they offer are small enough to only take up a couple of cubic feet, even with the tank (and you can order tankless compressors, but those aren't recommended as highly as ones with tanks). Thirded. I have one of these and it's great: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUTy824G3mo
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Nov 3, 2016 18:44
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mango sentinel posted:Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? I'm going whole hog on jungle bases with a mix of Vallejo texture paints (black lava and dark earth) plus some etched-brass jungle plants. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 19:26
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Moola posted:Personally I use dried herbs for foliage and dried tea granules from used teabags for soil (mix various kinds for a more natural looking variety of soil types) with a VERY small amount of static grass I've been doing this too, for a few models. Dried used tea is especially good stuff and I recommend it if you want a virtually inexhaustible supply of ground flock.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:37
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mango sentinel posted:How do I strip primer from a plastic mini? methylated spirits
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Nov 3, 2016 21:26
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mango sentinel posted:Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? I paint with the figure very lightly superglued to a base (often a trash base specifically for this purpose). I'll do the basing separately, then do touch-ups/gap filling after I move the completed figure over.
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Nov 3, 2016 22:03
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I prefer non slotted miniatures specifically because you can do them separate to the base then stick them on later I hate having to glue in the slotted mini then base around its feet 
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Nov 3, 2016 23:13
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Moola posted:I hate having to glue in the slotted mini then base around its feet Saw them tabs off and drill a pinhole instead. It's what I do for all my guys that have tabs.
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Nov 3, 2016 23:18
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I do that for plastics for sure bit more of a hassle for metal models though
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Nov 3, 2016 23:20
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It's not too bad if you pick up a modelling saw with a serrated blade. I just look at it as basically the same as cutting off gates on resin models.
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Nov 3, 2016 23:31
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oh I meant the pinning not the cutting of the tab, clippers and sanding do that fine takes ages to bore a decent hole with my hand drill though yeesh
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Nov 3, 2016 23:39
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I only have an issue on metals when I'm using insanely small bits, like around #80. Those just don't seem to want to bite into the pewter, but it could be because I'm using cheapo bits. You could always get an electric drill like the Tamiya one...
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Nov 3, 2016 23:43
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I might get that actually
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Nov 4, 2016 00:17
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Moola posted:I might get that actually It's a model kit in and of itself 
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Nov 4, 2016 01:29
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mango sentinel posted:Can you guys talk to me a little about how you base? I assembled my gremlins off-base, blue-tacking them to dimes while I worked on sculpting the custom bases from coffee stirrers and toothpicks. Then I glued them onto the bases and painted everything. After that, I put a little foliage on there and then used a layer of pouring medium for the swamp water. Pics in my post history
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Nov 4, 2016 02:43
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TTerrible posted:Thirded. I have one of these and it's great: Do they go on sale for less than $80 often?
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Nov 4, 2016 06:25
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ijyt posted:It's a model kit in and of itself what the fuuuuuick???
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Nov 4, 2016 06:36
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Moola posted:what the fuuuuuick???  It's a pretty great little hobbyist gag, considering that this presentation saves all of a few cents and is likely beat out by the packaging requirement.
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Nov 4, 2016 06:55
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