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CapMoron posted:Is it the terrible automatic dual-clutch transmissions I keep hearing about? There have been some legitimate issues with Ford's dual-clutch automatics, however there is also a widespread issue with US car owners in general expecting dual clutch autos to behave like a traditional slushbox automatic, so a lot of the reports of "transmission issues" are being skewed by idiots bringing their cars in for warranty service due to the transmission behaving in a manner they didn't expect - not because of any actual mechanical fault.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:56
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The issue is the thing decides it wants to wait an hour to shift then slams into gear. I've tried to drive that thing across traffic several times and it's legitimately dangerous.
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Nov 3, 2016 20:12
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An article I just read recently on truthaboutcars explains it is the aforementioned dual-clutch trannies. And I was so worried about Nissan's CVT's but they seem to be doing fine.
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Nov 3, 2016 20:24
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My 2002 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 has a slow power steering leak. My power steering pump will start whining every six months or so unless I top it off. Will I notice a difference putting in Royal Purple power steering fluid vs. Lucas power steering fluid?
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Nov 3, 2016 20:46
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Skunkrocker posted:Update on this, if I try to start out in drive it locks in third, but if I manually shift from first I can get the transmission to shift into overdrive but only when I'm on the freeway. I read online that it might be a solenoid issue, but running the codes only gave me P1870 Transmission Slipping so I think the solenoids are fine. Do you think if I just replace the fluid and filter I'll be fine? Third time posting here, replaced the fluid filter and solenoids. I can now manually shift between all forward gears, no problems with neutral, reverse, or park, but starting in drive makes it feel like I'm locked in another gear with a slow takeoff. I mean pedal to metal in drive and it's really slow to accelerate. Come on, someone here has got to know what in the gently caress is going on with this transmission! I really don't want this truck to break down. 
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Nov 3, 2016 21:06
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Okay, so my van (2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXsomething) started kind of getting little hiccups today, mostly noticeable while I was stopped at a light or in Park. Like a bit of a skipping or jumping sort of deal. I was guessing I got bad gas yesterday, so figured I'd get some good stuff later, but when I got home I started hearing a popping sound once in my garage. On opening the hood, it looks like poo poo is sparking a bit. Sorry for the bad lighting... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxKFCaEbbpY It's arcing from the end of a spark plug cable to a screw holding down the distributor cap. (1) Apart from the performance poo poo, how bad is this? I am guessing 'your car could catch on fire' is an actual potential thing. (2) Could this be temporarily patched by - say - some electrical tape at the end of the spark plug cable to interrupt the arc? (3) Do you think this is the cable at fault, or the distributor cap? Big price difference there, I am sure. Anyways, thanks, car goons.
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Nov 3, 2016 22:22
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Get some new cables and plugs asap
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Nov 3, 2016 22:48
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Get some new cables and plugs asap Yeah don't dick around with this. Car fire concerns aside, it is bad, and easy to fix. Just replace the plugs and wires, pronto.
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Nov 3, 2016 22:50
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Skunkrocker posted:Come on, someone here has got to know what in the gently caress is going on with this transmission! I really don't want this truck to break down. I don't have an answer for you (automatic transmissions are black magic)...just want you to know you're not being ignored. 
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Nov 3, 2016 22:52
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Dagen H posted:I don't have an answer for you (automatic transmissions are black magic)...just want you to know you're not being ignored. Ditto. Autos are powered by the devil. Is there any kind of transmission-dedicated computer in the truck that can be tested? If the solenoids are new and the gears all actually work, it sounds like something's not sending the right signals to the trans.
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Nov 3, 2016 22:55
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ditto. Autos are powered by the devil. Is there any kind of transmission-dedicated computer in the truck that can be tested? If the solenoids are new and the gears all actually work, it sounds like something's not sending the right signals to the trans. No idea. According to a text my dad just sent to me apparently there are transmission issues that can arise from a wiring harness coming loose and grounding against the trans, along with other issues like the dome light not turning off. Well, guess whose dome light is always on? So that might be it. At any rate, I'm taking it to TransAmerica on Saturday for a free inspection. I didn't want to have to do that, make it a point of pride to at least TRY to fix my own truck.
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Nov 3, 2016 23:02
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Get some new cables and plugs asap For just this evening, a rubber valve cap on that screw is 'solving' it before we have a more permanent solution. e: This is working well enough so that I am not freaking out about bringing it to a garage. No sparks so far. dwarf74 fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 23:05
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A distributor cap and wires are stupid, stupid cheap. I think they cost me under 20 dollars combined for my jeep. They're service parts recommended to be replaced every 30k to ???k miles depending on the make/model/year, so they sell a lot of them and economies of scale come into play. Do the distributor rotor too, it's probably like 3 to 5 bucks. Tools required usually include a screwdriver (phillips or flathead, not sure which) or nutdriver of appropriate size and your hands. Takes about 10min to 20min to do the whole job. Make sure you get the plug wires on in the same places (each plug must be connected to the same post on the distributor cap it was before you started) they came off, they may be different lengths for each cylinder etc. e: rockauto.com for your parts, they're usually pretty cheap compared to the rest. If you don't like the prices there, plug the same part numbers into amazon.
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Nov 3, 2016 23:44
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kastein posted:A distributor cap and wires are stupid, stupid cheap. I think they cost me under 20 dollars combined for my jeep. They're service parts recommended to be replaced every 30k to ???k miles depending on the make/model/year, so they sell a lot of them and economies of scale come into play. Do the distributor rotor too, it's probably like 3 to 5 bucks.
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Nov 4, 2016 01:01
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dwarf74 posted:Sounds real reasonable. How about if this is Baby's First Car Repair? Just take off each part one at a time, and replace with it with the new unit until you recognize how the cap fits and know your firing pattern. Pay attention to any super short or long spark plug cables and try best to match them up accordingly.
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Nov 4, 2016 01:03
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ONE AT A TIME cannot be emphasized enough.Safety Dance posted:My 2002 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 has a slow power steering leak. My power steering pump will start whining every six months or so unless I top it off. Will I notice a difference putting in Royal Purple power steering fluid vs. Lucas power steering fluid? Only in your wallet.
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Nov 4, 2016 01:26
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Thanks for the help, car goons. Not sure if I trust myself enough or will use a garage, but either way you've been a great help.
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Nov 4, 2016 02:25
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The Door Frame posted:Hahaha, I was typing this into google and it autocompleted "gm dex" to "gm dex cool lawsuit" I don't think I trust any coolant more than 3-5 years. Dexcool saying 7 years 100k miles at launch was a joke. Any coolant that long turns acidic.
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Nov 4, 2016 03:23
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Geoj posted:There have been some legitimate issues with Ford's dual-clutch automatics, however there is also a widespread issue with US car owners in general expecting dual clutch autos to behave like a traditional slushbox automatic, so a lot of the reports of "transmission issues" are being skewed by idiots bringing their cars in for warranty service due to the transmission behaving in a manner they didn't expect - not because of any actual mechanical fault. Hyundai is making owners on the veloster turbo forum sign NDA's to not discuss their issues and claim hyundai not at fault to repair.
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Nov 4, 2016 03:24
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Godholio posted:Only in your wallet. But my ***high performance steering applications***! Thanks.
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Nov 4, 2016 05:57
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Christobevii3 posted:I don't think I trust any coolant more than 3-5 years. Dexcool saying 7 years 100k miles at launch was a joke. Any coolant that long turns acidic. GM sold it as 150k coolant on a lot of cars (including mine - owner's manual states it's good for 7/150). I still have Dexcool in it, but it got a complete drain, a quick flush, and a fill with fresh Prestone branded Dex-Cool about 2 years ago when I changed the thermostat. My stepdad has never changed the coolant in his 2001 F-150. He bought it in 2003 or 2004 I think....  I don't think it even got a real drain (much less a flush) when he had the intake manifold replaced, just topped off. But this is the same guy who swears by oil changes every 2500-3000, yet does absolutely zero other preventive maintenance.
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Nov 4, 2016 06:03
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2016 Volkswagen Golf GTI, took delivery September 2015, usually driven short trips (10-15 minutes), and often parked under strong sun. Just had the 69Ah EFB battery replaced under warranty after it completely died. Both the original and new battery are manufactured by Korean "Global Leader of battery industry" SEBANG GLOBAL BATTERY Co.,Ltd. Was 14 months an abnormally short lifespan for the battery? If so, what drove it to an early death? The car has start-stop functionality, but it stopped activating quite a long time ago, which I now understand is because the battery was no longer holding sufficient charge. Should I disable start-stop except on longer journeys? Or was the battery always going to die young due to its manufacturing, short drives, and/or high temperatures? Would a solar trickle charger like this extend the lifespan of the new battery? A quick search indicates that the cigarette lighter socket can be made always-on by changing the position of its fuse. Is there any risk of overcharging, or confusing the car's battery monitoring?
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Nov 4, 2016 09:15
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You had a bad battery, I would just see how the new one does before spending money on solar chargers or whatever
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Nov 4, 2016 09:18
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spankmeister posted:You had a bad battery This. Batteries seem to last anywhere from to 3 to 6 years on average, depending on what part of the world you're in. I've had a few batteries that died within a week of purchase (and two family members have had the original battery die within a week of buying a brand new Toyota, followed a week later by the replacement batteries for both of them), a whole lot of batteries that made it less than 1-2 years, and I've had a battery that made it a bit past 10 years. I've even had a battery take a poo poo less than an hour after purchase. Though to be honest, the short trips and heat aren't helping. Take it on a decently long drive now and then. Go for a nice drive in the country once or twice a month, it'll be good for both you and the car.
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Nov 4, 2016 09:42
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spankmeister posted:You had a bad battery, I would just see how the new one does before spending money on solar chargers or whatever Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:This. Thanks, I'll see how things go. If stop-start stops working again, I'll know something's up. I might still pick up one of the solar chargers if I get the chance, as cheap insurance. By the by, I bought one of these Li-Po jump starters, and they really do work, despite their size. Started my car without issue when the car battery wasn't cranking at all. Pretty handy!
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Nov 4, 2016 12:00
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Smirk posted:By the by, I bought one of these Li-Po jump starters, and they really do work, despite their size. Started my car without issue when the car battery wasn't cranking at all. Pretty handy! Interesting. I've been fairly fortunate with flat batteries for a while (touch wood), but it does seem like something it is worth having for the colder months https://www.amazon.co.uk/DBPOWER-80...ar+jump+starter £30 - which is only £15 more than a decent set of jump leads (which requires a lot of faffing and finding someone who knows where their bonnet catch is - and it always happens in a deserted car park)
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Nov 4, 2016 12:25
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dwarf74 posted:Sounds real reasonable. How about if this is Baby's First Car Repair? Get some tape and label each wire with a number or letter, then on the old distirbutor mark the letter and number. Make sure you also put some orientation marks on the distributor.. like ^ this is up. Pop off your old distributor (hopefully with the wires still attached.. and install the new one.. use the guide you created to guide you on how to re-attach the wires. Don't takeoff tape / toss the old distributor until you drove around the block successfully.
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Nov 4, 2016 14:25
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yelp, or whatever the most popular user reviews site is in NZ. Alternatively, ask locally about shops that specialize in Toyotas - in my own experience, shops that specialize in one or two makes are generally owned and operated by former dealer mechanics anyway. RillAkBea posted:You may want to look at getting a 4 wheel alignment done, that may solve your tire problems. Thanks! I'll have a look around for a new mechanic that specialises in Toyota.
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Nov 4, 2016 20:39
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Just FYI, my transmission? Mechanical problem. Needs rebuild/replace. Torque converter went out and the burnt fluid ruined my tranny. So there's that. I want to put a bullet in my head.
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Nov 5, 2016 16:53
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And my FYI follow-up on valve clearance adjustment. Called a few more places, and found a Honda dealer willing to do it for $229 plus tax. Deal! $400 was an awkward amount of money. At $600 I'd feel real good about doing it myself instead. At $250 I'd feel good about paying to have it done and save myself a few hours of trouble. At $400 I'm pretty sure I wouldn't feel good about it either way.
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Nov 5, 2016 18:57
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Is it worth it to buy a junk engine and rebuild it yourself or is it better to just trade it in for the core charge on a professionally rebuilt one? I'm not going for massive amounts of power, but I do want to know with certainty that my engine can handle boost, and also for it to not suck while I upgrade the suspension and everything else before adding that boost later on
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Nov 5, 2016 22:44
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The Door Frame posted:Is it worth it to buy a junk engine and rebuild it yourself or is it better to just trade it in for the core charge on a professionally rebuilt one? In theory, if you pay for an engine to be rebuilt to a certain spec, you have some comeback. On the other hand, if you do it yourself, you know precisely what's been sone and to what standard.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:50
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It's either a Fiat TC 2000 or a Chevy 60º V6, maybe a Rover V8 if I hate myself enough, depending on the car I end up with. So it's like $4-5k (not including core charge) for the professionally built ones that aren't anything too fancy.
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Nov 5, 2016 23:05
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In all seriousness, fos $4-5k, why not just get an LS or something?
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Nov 5, 2016 23:17
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1996 Toyota RAV4 2.0L 5sp manual 4WD. The Haynes service manual says nothing about the transfer case for the manual transmission model. I wanted to check the oil. Does it just share oil with the transmission or is it a Haynes omission?
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Nov 5, 2016 23:20
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General_Failure posted:1996 Toyota RAV4 2.0L 5sp manual 4WD.
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Nov 5, 2016 23:41
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InitialDave posted:In all seriousness, fos $4-5k, why not just get an LS or something? Lack of real fabrication skills, to be completely honest. Those engines have proven histories and guides for installation, and require little to no difficult fabrication to properly fit except for adapting the driveshaft. Which I'd pay someone to do that anyways because I want it to be properly balanced. I don't want to try my first engine swap and have to chop a bunch of holes in my 35 year old, monocoque car body. Those tiny cars are dangerous enough without removing structural support The Rover V8 is cool in a "this engine is technically older than my parents" kind of way and the Chevy 60º is pretty meh, but I plan on using a "High Value" V6, since it's the exact same engine, but designed for a transverse layout. The Fiat TC is kinda poo poo, but I have fallen in love with old Fiats and it's a simple bolt in. E: for reference, I'm primarily looking at Fiat Spiders and MGB's, unless I can find a good enough Corvair or a Fiat X1/9. The Corvair stays air-cooled no matter what, but the X1/9 would probably get a Honda B-series I'm trying Babby's First Engine Swap and I want it to be as painless as I can possibly make it The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 00:01
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Well, the advantage to an MGB is that there's a ton of conversions done on them, so there's always info out there. But I think choosing a Rover V8 if you're in the US is insane, given the choice of actual good V8 engines you have. For an X1/9, I'd be tempted to go with a 1.4 turbo FIRE (the T-Jet from the 500), but they're probably a lot less common in the US.
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Nov 6, 2016 00:39
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What are considered the respected, knowledgeable, useful, BMW forums out there? I just bought a 1992 BMW 735iL and I'm looking for resources for other E32 drivers for stuff like parts, repairs, general wisdom etc. I know there are a lot of junk BMW forums so I'm looking for the one people respect. Any help?
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Nov 6, 2016 01:48
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InitialDave posted:Well, the advantage to an MGB is that there's a ton of conversions done on them, so there's always info out there. But I think choosing a Rover V8 if you're in the US is insane, given the choice of actual good V8 engines you have. What's up with the Rover V8? I know that the Rover cars have a really bad reputation for being unreliable, but I haven't heard much about engine troubles from them, usually I just hear about the cars themselves falling apart and having worse electrical problems than any German car. As for the T-Jet, that's only 120hp with a turbo on a relatively new engine. That's about double stock numbers and keeping it Fiat is a nice idea, but even non-VTEC B18's and B20's make at least 20 more horsepower with about the same torque. Plus, I could get a B-series and a compatible manual transmission for ~$500 tomorrow morning from a local wrecker. The cheapest T-Jet and manual transmission I can find is just under $4,000 including shipping. That's worth every second of squeezing an almost too large engine into that tiny engine bay
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Nov 6, 2016 03:23
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