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Shark Sandwich posted:That being said I saw little cans of Tamiya-branded spray paint at the hobby store. Will those give better results than a brush for large areas like Yes
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Nov 4, 2016 21:55
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Are these $14 tamiya sprays much better than the $10 testors?
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Nov 4, 2016 22:22
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I've never used Tamiya AS sprays, which is what I assume you saw, but the regular TS sprays are excellent. I typically decant the paint and spray through my airbrush.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:33
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Baronjutter posted:Are these $14 tamiya sprays much better than the $10 testors? Depends. I use Testor's clear and I think it's better than Tamiya for my needs. The nozzles aren't as good on the Testor's though, and it's noticeable.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:35
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The $10 white testors I bought spays like garbage, paint leaks out the bottom, and when I opened it the cap was flooded with paint. It got everywhere and was horrible even after I tried to clean it up and fix the nozzle. Tossed it. I'm going to try to get a refund or exchange, hope they don't expect the horrible can back.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:45
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Baronjutter posted:The $10 white testors I bought spays like garbage, paint leaks out the bottom, and when I opened it the cap was flooded with paint. It got everywhere and was horrible even after I tried to clean it up and fix the nozzle. Tossed it. I'm going to try to get a refund or exchange, hope they don't expect the horrible can back. Fish it out of the garbage and decant homie. All you need is a bendy straw and an empty jar to put the paint in. Place the straw right on the nozzle and kink the straw downward into the jar. Nice and easy.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:55
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George Zimmer posted:Fish it out of the garbage and decant homie. All you need is a bendy straw and an empty jar to put the paint in. Place the straw right on the nozzle and kink the straw downward into the jar. Nice and easy. What the hell do I do with a bunch of spray paint? Brush it on?
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Nov 4, 2016 22:56
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Baronjutter posted:What the hell do I do with a bunch of spray paint? Brush it on? Thought you had an airbrush, sorry.
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Nov 4, 2016 23:06
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You snort it bro. Makes huffing Testors model glue look like baby stuff. Modellers high, baby. Gotta keep chasing that Dragon.
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Nov 5, 2016 00:17
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You snort it bro. Makes huffing Testors model glue look like baby stuff.
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Nov 5, 2016 00:25
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You snort it bro. Makes huffing Testors model glue look like baby stuff.
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Nov 5, 2016 01:10
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Iznogood posted:Would that do? https://www.amazon.ca/Paasche-4-Ounce-Metal-Cup-Airbrush/dp/B004O7F2P8 I was trying to find the part number for the cups I use and ran across a post that says that Paasche and Badger cups are interchangeable, so that one should be perfect. Iznogood posted:While I am one amazon ordering stuff noticed that and was wondering if it is what I would need to connect to my shop compressor? https://www.amazon.ca/Badger-Air-Brush-Airbrush-Regulator/dp/B0006MZLQA That is for connecting to a can of compressed "airbrush" air and I think it will also connect to an inflated tire (no joke). Unless you live under a bridge and wear a sign that says "Will airbrush for crack", you don't ever want to use either of those options. Iznogood posted:edit: or even that? I think I read moisture trap is good? https://www.amazon.ca/Paasche-R-75-Regulator-Moisture-Trap/dp/B000BR2STI/ Yup, that one is good. Mister Dog posted:Agreed, use the moisture trap/regulator. That one says it uses standard 1/4in NPT fittings. You can get a 1/4in male chuck like this off the shelf for a few bucks to mate it with your compressor: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-NPT-IM-Brass-Female-Plug-HDB21800AV/100392107 If your regulator is the same one as mine, I don't think that is the right fitting (edit: I was wrong - you are right. I removed the male fitting on the input side of my regulator and replaced it with what you see below). The regulator I have has a female 1/4" on the intake side and a 1/8" male on the output (either that or I have mine hooked up backwards). Assuming his Badger hoses are the same ones I have, he'd want the adapters shown below in the little inset pictures. I run a hose from my compressor to the regulator and then another hose from the regulator to the manifold, so my setup isn't quite the same as going compressor>regulator>hose>airbrush, but you get the idea.  On the subject of adapters, I ordered some once and they were all a lot bigger than I expected. Turns out, they don't measure them like they do with a bolt. On a bolt, you measure the outer diameter and then count the threads and that's all you need to know. With air fittings, the measurement is in the ballpark of the inner diameter, so the outer diameter will be about twice that. Here's another picture to make life easier if you are ordering adapters online.  And here is a picture showing what I was talking about in an earlier post about using a sonic cleaner filled with water and a bottle filled with solvent to clean solvent based paints out of brushes. 
Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 01:49
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Thanks for the help guys! I'm taking my time with brush work on the smaller pieces right now and feel like I'm keeping a fairly even coat on. I'll get some rattle cans when I'm ready for the fuselage since I've got a Mosquito with a similar color scheme after this.
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Nov 5, 2016 01:57
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Well I dug up my old models, the ones I never got to build because they seemed lovely and I wass not into army/planes anymore. Now with the airbrush and this thread I want to dive right into one. Wonder if one of these ever got featured here in your build something cheap adventures. I'm actually half way thru building the FA111. Not that horrible of a kit. Fitting issues but minimal flash and yeah not bad at all. To me at leasst. I never built anything that costs more then 50$.   
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Nov 5, 2016 16:56
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I finally got around to finishing up my Tamiya King Tiger. Since this was my first tank, I mostly used it as an oppurtunity to practice some different weathering techniques. I also decided not to amush camo it. It could probably use more dust and rust, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. http://imgur.com/a/isuIJ
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Nov 5, 2016 17:42
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Finally more or less ok with these drat tiny trucks that I spent way too much time painting. Highlighted the flashing on the box with a gray marker, turned out ok I guess. Dice to show how TINY these trucks are.
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Nov 5, 2016 19:00
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They came out great! I dont know if its the picture or intentional, but I love the contrast between the semigloss and flat whites 
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Nov 5, 2016 19:21
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It's all gloss, but the cab is much more glossy. The boxes tend to be some sort of plastic on a metal frame, sometimes they aren't even painted, it's just the white of what ever the box is made out of. The gloss on smooth plastic is quite different from the gloss on a painted vehicle cab. My lovely painting on the boxes managed to replicate this!
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Nov 5, 2016 19:32
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Yup, the airbrush is definitely working well with paint again. It's absolutely sucking down anything in the cup. I kinda miss the added control I had while the nozzle was partially clogged. Even though this is supposed to be a dual action brush, there seems to be no setting between no paint and maximum paint. Meanwhile, have a photo of my latest and greatest. The kit is terrible, and I had to scratchbuild more changes for it than anything beforehand by a long shot, but it's going to be ok, probably. 
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Nov 6, 2016 01:58
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There was an N-scaler posting in here months ago. I'm downscaling from HO to N, and the owner of the local hobby shop was really hyped about Kato Unitrack, but to me it seems like trading a bit of work for a lot of extra money compared to flex track + road bed. Whoever it was, what are your thoughts?
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Nov 6, 2016 02:58
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Kato track, like tomix, (the two japanese brands) were made for non-permanent layouts. The japanese generally plop track down on their floor or a table and set up a little scene, then tear it down. The track is great for that purpose. The track is also good for people new to the hobby because even if you're making a proper permanent layout with grass and trees and the works, you've got this bullet-proof track you can set up in a snap, and easily salvage when you're done. There's downsides too of course. The biggest one is probably the price, compared to flex it's like 4x as expensive. It also doesn't look so good because the built-in plastic ballast looks like plastic, so you absolutely have to ballast it, except the fake plastic ballast is already almost up to the tops of the ties. It's also code 80 track while most everyone who cares about how their track looks uses code 55 track these days. Extra fussy people don't like the tie spacing, which is too far apart. But once you've got your kato track painted and ballasted, it looks just as good as code 80 flex, except it's cost you a lot more. Their turnouts also have motors built into the fake road bed and ugly manual switches poking out the sides that love to collect ballast and ruin them selves. If you want to control your turnouts another way, you're out of luck. For me though the worst part of kato or any sectional track is that you're forced to design your layout around their geometry. With flex you can have any radius curve, any track spacing. With kato or tomix track, you're forced into their limited curves and their generally way too wide track spacing. If you're already fine working with flex and hooking up switch machines or manual throws, I'd go with atlas c55 turnouts and micro-engineering or atlas c55 flex. If you just want to get trains going around quick and easy without fussy track-work, go with kato or tomix. Here's what c55 track looks like. Nice more realistic low-profile rails, realistic tight tie spacing, and nice long turnouts.  Here's kato track. You can see the rails are much taller/thicker and it's hard to cover up all the plastic, you can see a bit peeping out  But from a bit farther away and nicely painted and ballasted, kato track can look fine.  Or you can go full sperg and hand-lay code 40 
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Nov 6, 2016 03:43
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It never occured to me before there might be cultural differences in model railroading.
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Nov 6, 2016 03:58
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Yeah, the japanese are about temporary layouts and running factory pristine passenger trains around loops on their floor. They don't care about "operations" or "prototype realism" or what ever. They also think weathering your trains is ruining them, and a layout with ballast and grass and scenery is messy and would ruin the factory pristine track. Model trains are a thing you collect and play with, it's not an attempt to create realistic scenes, it's more like playing with lego or something. Europeans like to run mostly passenger trains around a loop, but generally do highly detailed realistic layouts. Once again, not a lot of switching or operations, they generally make layouts where you can turn on a few trains then sit back and watch. Things are generally weathered since the intent is realism, but passenger trains tend to be pretty clean anyways. Layouts also tend to be more urban focused, with a station as the centerpiece.  North americans generally model freight, since that's what dominates the rails there, and there's a much higher focus on "operations" and switching and such. They tend to be layouts you "operate" and people will go so far as having car-cards and waybills and spend hours with friends assembling, running, and breaking down trains exactly as they would in real life. There tends to be a bigger focus on realistic nature and rural scenes.  Of course there's japanese layouts that are fully detailed and realistic and americans running high speed trains in a loop on their floor, but there's absolutely general trends on what's typical or popular.
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Nov 6, 2016 04:18
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I once saw a barn with a model railroad in it, it was pretty radical. It even had a platform you could climb onto if you wanted to watch from above.
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Nov 6, 2016 04:22
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Went to Modelzona today, and met PirateDentist who figured out who I was from me talking about ships or something. First ever goon met in RL. The show was decent as always. Lots and lots of talent on display, and two wooden ships, neither of them mine, showed up for the competition. Unfortunately both had basic construction flaws (mostly glue showing and some sloppy rigging on the bigger one) so neither of them placed in the competition. Hopefully you guys like pictures of random models that nobody here made... If you are on a bandwidth meter... I am sorry. Nicely done FW-190 Diorama   A very small Elefant on top of a pedestal  Submarines    First big wooden ship that didn't win. The Santa Ana? I think.  Second big wooden ship that didn't win. The USS Constitution finished in natural wood.  Scratch built tug boat that was quite nice.   A much smaller version of the Picket Boat #1 that I've barely started making. It's about 3" or so long.    Out of the box build of the USS Cole  1/700 scale USS Ward. I think this won 1st place in the small scale surface ship class.  1/700 scale Tzarist Gunboat. Was extremely well done and includes photo-etch crew, but it was withdrawn from the competition when the builder was asked to judge ships.  USS Henley  HUGE B-17 model. It is covering the entire depth of the table.  Extremely well done model of the B-17 "Little Miss Mischief", a plane that was built out of several other aircraft. Features photo documentation of the aircraft after returning from the mission it is modeled for. Wish I'd gotten some more and detailed pictures for you guys, it's incredibly well done.  Another boat   Close up of part of the hull of the Santa Ana. Pretty easy to see why it didn't win anything, since the very first and most important thing that IPMS judges on is construction. The Connie was much better done, but unfortunately the builder used CA glue to secure the brass chain-plates on the sides, and the CA was visible on the finish when a flashlight was shined on it on every chain-plate on both sides of the ship. Welp..   The "Display Only" table. Mixture of past winners or just stuff people wanted to bring but not enter.  Really amazing "Wingnut Wings" model of a WWI bomber. The pictures do not do it justice. I spent 15 minutes just fascinated by the rigging on this thing, it's amazingly well done. I chased down the builder and got her to explain to me how she fashioned all the tiny turn-buckles.    WWI Bi-plane. Notice the propeller. It's made out of laminated wood that was then hand carved. Handles in the cock-pit are real wood.  Another one, by the same builder I believe based on the entry forms. Propeller is again hand made out of laminated wood, and the radiator slats are real wood also. Over 16' of stainless steel rigging wire used.   Japanese aeroplane.  And.. a bit different.  Cool diorama, and not your usual theme for modeling.  Tank with what I assume is some sort of mine-clearing 'thing' on the front.  This model was also really huge, and very nice. 1/32 scale.   Nicely done F-14 that got my attention.  Another WWI Bi-plane  A third WWI Bi-plane by the guy doing hand-made laminated wood props. On this one he also included a real wood instrument panel, floor boards, and hand carved seats. If the entry form didn't say that the fuselage was simulated wood, I could have believed that it was wood also, it was very well done.  Display only. This won a 2nd place at this years IPMS Nationals.  Display only. This won a 1st place at this years IPMS Nationals.  And one more display only that I thought was cool.  I have a few more pictures, but I sort of slacked with the camera this year and only got 140 or so photo's and lots of them are of the ships from different angles (and more ships, there were quite a few 1/700 scale ships).
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Nov 6, 2016 04:53
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Baronjutter posted:They tend to be layouts you "operate" and people will go so far as having car-cards and waybills and spend hours with friends assembling, running, and breaking down trains exactly as they would in real life. The model railroad club I bring my cousin to took a field trip to a guy's house who hosted an event like this weekly. They had a fast clock and probably 30 feet or so of run along one wall, 8 feet along two walls, a 10 foot peninsula, and a 48" or so two level loop in another room (with connecting tunnel, of course). It was pretty remarkable to see. None of the switches were automated except about 8 mainline switches that were controlled at the dispatch board. They had radio headsets, too. I don't think I want to know how much money was sunk into it. E: thanks for the info. I was a little confused. I didn't know why he was pushing it, because he usually doesn't push for the bigger sale, and he hadn't ever tried to push EZ Track or anything on me when I was shopping for HO. Some day I want to try hand laid, but not yet. carticket fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 05:25
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Bushes! Also I really like how these manholes turned out. It's just a "zinc" coat with a silver drybrush but it gets the job done. It's nice and metalic looking in real life.
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Nov 6, 2016 05:25
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I went to Modelzona and met a thread celebrity!  Oh, and The Locator was there as well.  We chatted about ships and models for a bit, I learned a lot of neat stuff! It was also cool getting to see his ship in person, as a non-ship builder at least it's very impressive. The attention to detail really stands out when compared to the other two big ships Locator posted about.Here's another shot of the B-17G Miss Mischief. Interesting model of an aircraft with an interesting history.  A few shots overseeing the display area:   Overseeing the hangar were some 1:1 scale things.  I've never seen one of these in person, a forced perspective diorama. It's a really cool effect.  The top of the box showed what scale the various bits were in. 1/16th for the soldier in the front, 1/87th for the tank way in the back.  This was the first model show I've been to, it was really nice to see everything in person. I think I'll try to enter something next year, so I should probably work on actually finishing something.
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Nov 6, 2016 05:25
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Was good to meet you PirateDentist. Someone has posted a pretty good gallery of the event, for those who want to see a lot more model photo's from today. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...jQ5U1ItSFFudTd3
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Nov 6, 2016 06:19
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Another rail question. Do any of the companies make non-working locomotives? Got some ideas for my rail vignette, but obviously I don't need a working loco. Hoping to save some cash if I can. Or should I just watch eBay for broken locomotives for cheap?
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Nov 6, 2016 09:33
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Another rail question. Do any of the companies make non-working locomotives? Got some ideas for my rail vignette, but obviously I don't need a working loco. Hoping to save some cash if I can. In what scale? I know 00 kit locos exist, as well as the occasional H0, Revell makes some H0 European steamers and a Big Boy.
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Nov 6, 2016 10:48
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Another rail question. Do any of the companies make non-working locomotives? Got some ideas for my rail vignette, but obviously I don't need a working loco. Hoping to save some cash if I can. Just google for modelling scales (1:35, 1/76) instead of railroad modeling scales like O, and you'll find non-operational plastic kits
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Nov 6, 2016 11:02
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N17R4M posted:In what scale? I know 00 kit locos exist, as well as the occasional H0, Revell makes some H0 European steamers and a Big Boy. Was hoping for HO, just to increase the availability of same-scale buildings and accessories. Looking at kits though seems generally limited to steam engines and some WWII fighting trains. So I may just look for broken engines on eBay or whatever, since I want something a bit more modern. Might have to do some customizing on some figures too, since no one seems to offer the type of character I'm looking for....
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Nov 6, 2016 11:32
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As above, searching for 1:87 etc would get you more results. But few kits exist. I think some companies sell 'dummies' they aren't kits, they're just non motorized versions of the motorized models.
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Nov 6, 2016 13:04
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:
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Nov 6, 2016 16:14
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Yeah, there's quite a wide variety of adult-themed figures in rail modeling for some reason. Maybe if the hobby doesn't want to project the image of pervy old men screwing around in their basement, they should stop making entire ranges of "characters loving" figures. I'm looking for some battle figures and punks.... ..... retro future punks.....
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Nov 6, 2016 16:23
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Artitec, Artmaster or Preiser are what you want to look up for figures. There's also one more but the name eludes me at the moment. At some point I saw Roman Legionaries in H0 from one of those companies.
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Nov 6, 2016 16:45
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I just the big new fatass Walthers catalog, gonna peruse that for a while and get some ideas.
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Nov 6, 2016 16:50
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You could try the wargaming guys; http://www.stanjohansenminiatures.com/Road.htm looks kind of Mad Max-y if that's what you're looking for.
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Nov 6, 2016 16:54
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The Locator posted:HUGE B-17 model. It is covering the entire depth of the table. Um... where on earth are its elevators? Pretty sure those are required equipment.
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Nov 6, 2016 17:20
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