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shortspecialbus posted:There's about 2/3" of visible pipe, not counting the screw cap things that I don't know what they're called. 2/3" is cutting it short, but I think you can work with that. Since everything past the trap adapters is glued together, you will have to cut off most of what you have and rebuild it. Here's what you will need, in PVC: one 1-1/2" no hub coupling the shortest length of 1-1/2" DWV pipe they sell, usually 2 feet PVC primer and cement, get the smallest combo of both that they have one 1-1/2" 45 degree elbow either a new 1-1/2" marvel adapter or trap adapter, depending on how much room you have. I'd buy both, then return what you don't need one center outlet continuous waste kit one 1-1/2" x 12" long flanged tail piece, possibly two depending on how much height there is between the disposal and the trap one P trap kit. This may come with a marvel adapter Now for the instructions. A lot of this will suck because it involves putting on and taking off a lot of parts to adjust them before you finally glue all the non-slip joint parts together. 1. Cut that wye off on the wall side. Cut it as close as possible to the wye. You might even want to cut through the wye on the end and break off the wye pieces still on the pipe so you can get a longer pipe to work with. 2. slip the no hub coupling over the wall pipe. From here you will build your new drain 3. cut off a length of your new 1-1/2" pipe to fit into the no hub coupling, enough for the 45 elbow to fit onto 4. put on the 45 elbow so it's facing outward 5. rotate your disposal so its outlet is in line with the other sink's drain. It will be hard to spin. If it doesn't want to spin at all, you might have to temporarily loosen its locking ring at the top. Try tapping one of the curls on the locking ring with a hammer. 6. this next step depends on how much room you got coming straight out. You want the trap part of your P trap kit to be able to rotate so the front portion of the trap is in the same vertical plane as your disposal and sink drains while the back portion of the trap is in line with that elbow. Keep in mind that you will need to fit the tail piece onto the back side of that trap, then it slips into either the trap adapter or marvel adapter, depending on how much room you have. If your tail piece is long enough, stick the trap adapter into the 45 elbow. If it's not, use the marvel adapter and a piece of pipe instead. 7. tighten down the hose clamps on that no hub coupling. 8. you should be ready to glue the drain pieces together. Read the instructions, prime first, then glue. Be careful with the primer! That purple primer stains EVERYTHING, clothes, wood, plastic, floors, etc. If I were you, I'd only open the can inside your cabinet, then close it in there when done. Feel free to put this off until the last step if you're more comfortable. 9. attach one flanged tail piece to the bottom of the right sink. 10. Now the next annoying, super adjustable step. You need to figure out how to space out the continuous waste and P trap kits so that all you slip joint parts fit together and drain into the plumbing section you just glued together. If the tee from that continuous waste kit is too low to fit into the trap, you can cheat and replace the downspout from the disposal with the second flanged tail piece and run that into the side of the continuous waste tee. Cut all your pieces as necessary. I'll be honest, this part involves a lot of estimating. Just remember that you can always cut off more pipe, but you can't put it back on. 11. put on all those beveled washers and tighten all those slip joints. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Oct 8, 2016 |
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Oct 8, 2016 02:16
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Let's pretend for a second here that I've never done this before and something like a sketch would help me immensely. I am pretty sure I can follow that if I search a bunch of the terms and watch a youtube video here or there, but having some idea what it's supposed to look like at the end would be quite the boon.
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Oct 8, 2016 04:43
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shortspecialbus posted:Let's pretend for a second here that I've never done this before and something like a sketch would help me immensely. I am pretty sure I can follow that if I search a bunch of the terms and watch a youtube video here or there, but having some idea what it's supposed to look like at the end would be quite the boon. It's kind of hard to draw something in 3D... Let me whip you up something in the morning.
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Oct 8, 2016 05:23
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kid sinister posted:It's kind of hard to draw something in 3D... Let me whip you up something in the morning. Yeah, for sure. I just am having trouble visualizing it, partly because I don't know exactly what everything is.
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Oct 8, 2016 14:03
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shortspecialbus posted:Yeah, for sure. I just am having trouble visualizing it, partly because I don't know exactly what everything is. OK then, here's what you need. I made a diagram of the drain work you need to do. First thing's first, make this cut and use some channellock pliers to break off the pieces left from the wye collar on the end of the pipe. If you can't, no biggie. Just cut the collar off, leaving as much of the pipe as you can.  Here's the diagram of the first steps you need to do. A trap adapter has a male end and will fit directly into the end of the 45. A marvel adapter has a female end, so you'd need a short length of pipe to go between it and the 45. Once you got the red and green pieces set up right, glue them together and tighten down the no hub coupling.  And here is how to install a continuous waste kit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7b1nOrCbXBM You might have to replace the downspout coming off your disposal with another tail piece if it's just too low for everything to fit together properly. It would look something like this: 
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 01:13
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kid sinister posted:Helpful stuff Awesome, thanks a ton! I have a better idea what you're getting at. I have the straight piece that came with the disposal as well, so that wouldn't be a problem at all. I'll get to this as soon as I sort out the MBR Bathroom sink, which has a busted shutoff valve on the hot water, as well as a jammed drain stopper thing, and sort out the main floor bathroom sink, which has but a trickle of cold water. When the disposal broke it sort of kicked my butt into gear with all the minor plumbing stuff that was a minor annoyance but not enough of an annoyance to learn how to fix. Unfortunately the shutoff valve broke when doing the MBR Bathroom sink (it opens and closes but doesn't do anything) so the project got a bit tougher  Thanks again! Edit: Oh, forgot about figuring out why the fridge dispenses water so slow. Guessing the tap into the line in the basement is clogged. I'll probably check that when I have the water shut off for the sink valve. ssb fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 02:59
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shortspecialbus posted:Edit: Oh, forgot about figuring out why the fridge dispenses water so slow. Guessing the tap into the line in the basement is clogged. I'll probably check that when I have the water shut off for the sink valve.
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Oct 10, 2016 16:13
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shortspecialbus posted:Awesome, thanks a ton! I have a better idea what you're getting at. I have the straight piece that came with the disposal as well, so that wouldn't be a problem at all. The stop valves under your MBR sink probably just need their stem washers replaced. As for your fridge, how slow is it? Fridges typically only have a 1/4" supply line, whereas sinks have 3/8" ones. Thinner line = less water to come out.
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Oct 10, 2016 18:33
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I dunno, I've never had a fridge that dispenses water before, but it seems slow by any standard. Maybe my expectations are too high. I just took a stopwatch (well, phone stopwatch app), and to fill a standard pint glass from empty to about 1/4" from the top, it took 57.46 seconds. Maybe that's normal? It feels slow. If I want to fill one of the camelbak plastic bottles it takes several minutes. I took a look and found the connection and it's actually a nicer connection than I thought: 
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Oct 11, 2016 14:38
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shortspecialbus posted:I dunno, I've never had a fridge that dispenses water before, but it seems slow by any standard. Maybe my expectations are too high. Does your fridge have a filter, either built in or on that supply line? It might be almost completely clogged and needs to be replaced.
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Oct 11, 2016 18:59
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kid sinister posted:Does your fridge have a filter, either built in or on that supply line? It might be almost completely clogged and needs to be replaced. Fridge has a filter yes, but I keep on top of that. I change the filter every 6 months. It was changed about 3 weeks ago, no change. Edit: Is about a minute to fill up a pint glass considered normal for a fridge? If so, I'll stop worrying about it. Edit 2: When we moved in, the fridge dispenser was nearly completely clogged with hard water crud. I cleaned it out with a toothpick, huge giant chunks came out and it got immensely better from what it was at, where it would take at least 3 minutes to fill a pint glass. It's stayed about where it is now. The only time it goes faster is when I pop the new filter in and air pushes through the line in some manner and makes the water go about twice as fast for a few seconds until its out and then it's back to 1 cup each 30 seconds. There could easily still be crud somewhere in the fridge. I've been seriously considering a reverse osmosis system for the fridge and/or kitchen sink. ssb fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Oct 11, 2016 |
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Oct 11, 2016 20:20
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shortspecialbus posted:Fridge has a filter yes, but I keep on top of that. I change the filter every 6 months. It was changed about 3 weeks ago, no change. It sounds like the line in the fridge may be clogged. It may or may not be very difficult to fix depending on the fridge. Have you also tried opening and closing the shutoff to make sure it's open? If you really want to know for sure you could shut off the line, unhook the fridge, run the line into a bucket, and have a friend turn it on for ten seconds while you check if seems clogged. Have a friend who can hear you in case things go wrong and you need it shut off ASAP.
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Oct 12, 2016 18:17
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 Had a plumber in to fix a leak that had previously been entombed in concrete. The guy left and when I went to start filling in the hole, I noticed a *very* slow leak (to the tune of 1 drip/minute) coming from the tee adjacent to the 90 he replaced. So I didn't fill in the hole and called him back. If I wanted to fix this myself, I have all the plumbing tools (I just hate plumbing). Is this as simple as turn off the water, drain the line, heat up the joint, possibly run a bead of solder around it; or would i have to cut and disassemble and reassemble and flux and solder all the joints again?
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Oct 13, 2016 21:24
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Days later, the plumber showed up, drained the line, re-soldered it, and it's dry now.
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Oct 15, 2016 04:34
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I'm reading some places that you can use this to go from cast iron sewer stack to PVC above ground, while in other places they say no way, these are for below ground only: While others say do this above ground, but others say they aren't to code but the just rubber ones are:  And others say I need this, but only American sites, I can't find mention of them in Canada:  This will be in the wall so we can cut off the main drain stack just below our sink line so we can lower it to make grade for a sink relocation. The entirety of the sewer stack from that cut up to the roof vent will be converted to PVC if need be. What option is the one I'm actually supposed to use? EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Oct 21, 2016 |
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Oct 21, 2016 18:02
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EvilJoven posted:And others say I need this, but only American sites, I can't find mention of them in Canada That's probably because there are several plumbing codes in the US, depending on the state or local area, while Canada has its own plumbing code. For example, here you would need to leave an access panel for that coupling if it's buried in the wall. My advice is to talk to a local plumber if there isn't a Canuck goon here to help you.
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Oct 21, 2016 22:43
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We have a plumber friend (we're both brand new to the neighbourhood, he bought his house about a week before we bought ours) next door and he said he'd help us out with it. We're also now replacing basically everything from the bottom of the sewer stack on up and the coupling between the old cast stack and the new PVC will be completely accessible.
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Oct 22, 2016 01:01
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My wife thinks it's time to buy a house. After almost a year of looking, we found a freestanding 3/2.5 condo by Northridge here in LA. The home inspector found a bunch of regular, 25+ year old wear on the house, including Termites. I'm concerned about the plumbing in the kitchen, since they tried to run the tap in the sink and found a leak, noting no riser at the valve. Here's the picture.  What are the odds we'll have to tear part of the wall out to address this? There's a saggy trap (probably a bit leaky) that I can fix myself:  And a really funny quik-patch in the garage that I really love: 
FilthyImp fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Oct 22, 2016 |
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Oct 22, 2016 18:27
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FilthyImp posted:My wife thinks it's time to buy a house. After almost a year of looking, we found a freestanding 3/2.5 condo by Northridge here in LA. The first thing I would do is take pictures with an actual camera instead of a potato. Seriously, we can't see any detail in them. We couldn't even begin to diagnose anything with pictures that bad. Still, leaks that are readily accessible are usually pretty easy to fix. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Oct 22, 2016 |
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Oct 22, 2016 20:23
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Oops. That's what I get for pulling photos from a PDF. 
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Oct 22, 2016 21:06
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Aside from a foot of the old stack coming out of the floor that we Fernco'd to we now have 100% new ABS waste water lines and vent stack. Did it fast enough I didn't even need to pop in to the neighbours house to use their bathroom.
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Oct 23, 2016 01:22
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The photos that end up attached to inspection reports are always as bad as can be while still qualifying to be a "photo".
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Oct 23, 2016 23:15
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Just replaced my first ever kitchen faucet, and even though I didn't run into any problems, I have a quick question. The escetcheon/cover plate/whatever you call it that covers up the three sink holes had a plastic piece that goes between it and the sink. The instructions didn't actually mention this piece at all, but I think this is supposed to be a gasket, even thigh it didn't really feel soft like I would expect from a gasket piece. When I installed everything, I put some plumbers putty between the plastic piece and the sink and cranked down on the mounting bracket/nut and pulled away anything that was squeezed out. Was this necessary, and if not, is it likely to cause a problem?
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Oct 30, 2016 23:37
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Alpine Mustache posted:Just replaced my first ever kitchen faucet, and even though I didn't run into any problems, I have a quick question. It's mostly there to prevent scratching the sink and to compensate a bit for uneven faucet spots on sinks. In the past back when faucet bases were brass and sinks were stainless steel, they also helped prevent galvanic corrosion somewhat. Some of them even have little raised circles around the pipes to help center the faucet over the holes. The plumber's putty is a good idea to help prevent water making its way through that gap and into the cabinet. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Oct 31, 2016 |
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Oct 31, 2016 02:41
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OK, Fridge chat again. I decided to get a RO system put in and just have it hooked up to my fridge. The existing 1/4" copper line to the fridge was replaced with pex, and I replaced the carbon filter in the fridge with a bypass. The copper line was pretty gunked up. The water from the fridge is still quite slow, so I think the fridge piping is still clogged up. Do I have any options that aren't "dismantle the entire fridge and try to clean it out, assuming I can find some sort of service manual to do so"? The fridge is a Frigidaire GLHS69EHSB0 (or maybe an O) manufactured in 2007. Rear water hookup is 1/4". The flow is a tiny bit faster than the previous 1 cup/30 seconds, but not by much. Probably 1 cup/25 seconds. Edit: Based on a recommendation from Appliance Forums, I ordered a new valve system for the back of the fridge where the water line goes in. I took it off and it looked OK but who knows. Amazon is out of stock til Monday unfortunately, but whatever. Does anyone know how to pull out the entire dispenser system and try to check that? ssb fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 19:58
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I managed to acquire a used water-cooled AC for a closet-turned-home-server-room and I'm trying to figure out how to handle the plumbing. I can tie it into a bathroom sink with about a 4 foot run through a wall, but I'm not sure how to handle the drain. I've done some very basic plumbing work, but this is a bit beyond what I know. It's one of these: It has 3 connections - supply water, 'exhaust' water, and a condensate pump drain. I'd really like to use some kind of quick disconnect for all of them. My searches for wall mounted quick disconnect fittings weren't fruitful - what would those be called? The connection on the unit is just flex tubing. Can I even use a disconnect fitting for the drains, or do I need an open standpipe thing like on a washing machine? I was thinking of running the drains through a quick disconnect over to a Y dishwasher drain fitting in the bathroom sink (with a checkvalve on the condensate drain, since I don't want the higher pressure drain to backup into it). Any suggestions? Am I approaching this completely wrong?
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Nov 6, 2016 01:54
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xpost from projects thread. Thursday I came home and discovered the water pipe in my basement had broken, because whoever installed it had run 40ft of pipe and used no hangers, supporting all the weight on a lone T-fitting for the leg to the upstairs bathroom.  Last night I brought home all the poo poo I'd need to unfuck this situation and got to work.  The pipe was paper thin, even cutting it back 5" from the T it was still about half as thick as it really should be. Fortunately it was only on that leg, the 3/4" line was fine and the upstairs leg was in good shape.  The line was originally run right next to the joist, so I bent it out to give myself more room to work with.  All fixed  Was really nice to take a hot shower after that. Not pictured are the 5 hangers I added to support the pipe as well, to prevent this from happening again.
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Nov 6, 2016 05:57
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Minus Pants posted:I managed to acquire a used water-cooled AC for a closet-turned-home-server-room and I'm trying to figure out how to handle the plumbing. I can tie it into a bathroom sink with about a 4 foot run through a wall, but I'm not sure how to handle the drain. I've done some very basic plumbing work, but this is a bit beyond what I know. It's one of these: Don't those things waste tremendous amounts of water? I thought they were designed to be used with a chiller plant, not just running water from the tap to the drain. Specs say 3 GPM, so for one month you'd be doing 131400 gallons to cool this closet.
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Nov 6, 2016 16:51
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devicenull posted:Don't those things waste tremendous amounts of water? I thought they were designed to be used with a chiller plant, not just running water from the tap to the drain. On the other hand, if there's enough equipment in your home server cabinet to require more cooling than a window unit can provide you're probably already wasting >1500 kWh of electricity a month so the water's a drop in the bucket. 
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Nov 6, 2016 17:00
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devicenull posted:Don't those things waste tremendous amounts of water? I thought they were designed to be used with a chiller plant, not just running water from the tap to the drain. Yeah if it ran full blast it would be a huge waste. It's been averaging 0.5-1GPM (it's vastly oversized for the space) while running, and it doesn't run very often. The drain will likely only be in for the winter - a DIY chiller is on my project list for a laser cutter, and I'll probably hook it up to this too.
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Nov 6, 2016 17:00
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devicenull posted:Don't those things waste tremendous amounts of water? I thought they were designed to be used with a chiller plant, not just running water from the tap to the drain. Yeah aren't these designed to be connected to systems that take the heated wastewater and cool it in an evaporative chiller so it can be cycled over and over? I don't think they're meant to just flush the wastewater down the drain....
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Nov 6, 2016 17:02
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Minus Pants posted:Yeah if it ran full blast it would be a huge waste. It's been averaging 0.5-1GPM (it's vastly oversized for the space) while running, and it doesn't run very often. The drain will likely only be in for the winter - a DIY chiller is on my project list for a laser cutter, and I'll probably hook it up to this too. Could you rig it up to run off gray water? That seems like an irresponsible waste of potable water.
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Nov 6, 2016 17:04
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Jealous Cow posted:Yeah aren't these designed to be connected to systems that take the heated wastewater and cool it in an evaporative chiller so it can be cycled over and over? Large ones are but the manual for this one shows a direct drain connection for the water output.
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Nov 6, 2016 17:13
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Jealous Cow posted:Could you rig it up to run off gray water? That seems like an irresponsible waste of potable water. I'd need some kind of holding tank, and at that point, I'd probably just make a simple recirc chiller. Point taken on the water waste. I'm going to see how much work the chiller would be - I may just do that first and plumb the water lines to that.
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Nov 6, 2016 17:17
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I'm trying to imagine what's going on in that room of yours that can't be cooled by window/portable plugin unit. If you're looking for more serious climate control option, I'd recommend a mini split. What you have there is like couple of steps above.
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Nov 6, 2016 18:26
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Nitrox posted:I'm trying to imagine what's going on in that room of yours that can't be cooled by window/portable plugin unit. It's not "a couple of steps above" a mini split. It's designed for temporary spot chilling in facilities that have a chiller loop. The alternative to this is an electric spot chiller, but they are typically more difficult to exhaust which is why chilling loops are popular in data center type application - all of the chilling happens far away in a mechanical room with the waste product being the chilling liquid that is easily carried back to said room via the same infrastructure (rather than coming up with temporary air AND condensate disposal) where you have a chance of using the waste heat and/or ambient temperature to save some energy. That unit has little place outside of a facility without a proper water chilling loop, which is going to be prohibitively expensive and complicated compared to a mini split at this type of super micro scale. Motronic fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 18:46
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Minus Pants posted:I managed to acquire a used water-cooled AC for a closet-turned-home-server-room and I'm trying to figure out how to handle the plumbing. I can tie it into a bathroom sink with about a 4 foot run through a wall, but I'm not sure how to handle the drain. I've done some very basic plumbing work, but this is a bit beyond what I know. It's one of these: If you want to make a project out of this, you could build a heat exchanger out of a car radiator and pump condenser water through that in a closed loop. Otherwise, yeah you're going to be putting a lot of water down the drain. Or put a small cooling tower in your yard disguised as a water fixture. Be sure to check out the crappy construction thread for the latest legionella chat.
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Nov 6, 2016 19:16
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shortspecialbus posted:OK, Fridge chat again. I decided to get a RO system put in and just have it hooked up to my fridge. The existing 1/4" copper line to the fridge was replaced with pex, and I replaced the carbon filter in the fridge with a bypass. The copper line was pretty gunked up. Self-quoting. I got my water valve and installed it today. New time for a pint glass is about 22 seconds, so 11 seconds per cup. About 3x better with the new valve. This is so much more usable now.
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Nov 11, 2016 02:18
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My house is about 30 years old. In one of the bathrooms, there is a leak at the cold water handle in the shower. I removed the cartridge and took it to Lowe's and they did not have an exact match. It is VERY similar to the Delta two handle ones but it has a long stem and different o-rings. Are there websites that sell old/discontinued stuff like this? If not how bad of a job is it to change to a different style cartridge?
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Nov 12, 2016 22:37
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My house is about 30 years old. In one of the bathrooms, there is a leak at the cold water handle in the shower. I removed the cartridge and took it to Lowe's and they did not have an exact match. It is VERY similar to the Delta two handle ones but it has a long stem and different o-rings. Are there websites that sell old/discontinued stuff like this? If not how bad of a job is it to change to a different style cartridge? It's really bad. You would have to install new a new shower valve, which involves opening the walls. I'd only recommend it if you're doing a bathroom renovation, or the other side of that wall opens into a closet or something where you wouldn't mind putting in an access panel. That being said, you can still get parts for fixtures going back a century now. The bad part is how many different styles that each manufacturer has made, multiplied by how many manufacturers there have been. I've used this site before to find replacement stems for my Repcal shower stems. Start with the length, then look at the pictures and find something that matches. And if you want to split hairs, "stem" is for a single temperature knob and "cartridge" is for multi-temperature knobs. edit: Wait, it just leaks??? You don't need to replace an entire stem just for a leak. Where does it leak: down the spout or out the handle? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Nov 12, 2016 |
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Nov 12, 2016 23:51
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