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A friend is looking at this 1988 Volvo 740 turbo saloon. I don't know much about Volvos and I was wondering if there was something we should watch out for when we go to check it out this Saturday? Especially about the 940 rear axle and motor swap.
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Sep 20, 2016 19:23
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Olivil posted:A friend is looking at this 1988 Volvo 740 turbo saloon. That looks like a pretty cool car! According to Bill Garland's Tranny Page that car would have came with the same AW71 4 speed automatic that the 940's in Canada all had, which makes me wonder which manual it has in it - it would (presumably) be either a m46 (4 speed with o/d) or m47 5 speed. My understanding is that both the clutches and the box will struggle to live for long behind a tuned B230FT, although the m46 is a bit sturdier? I am reading the "New clutch and driveshaft bearing" to mean "It makes more power than the clutch can hold, and turned it into smoke", so it might be prudent to look at dialing back the power a bit, at least until your buddy has gotten a better sense of how quickly he's going to lunch the tranny. So, uh, definitely get the extra transmission (and if it is the original auto, get all the bits if he has them; pedal box, etc etc). The AW71 is sturdy, if not really very fun. As far as the rear end goes, depending on the year of 940 it is probably the LSD variant which is sturdy and nice. I've been itching to do an auto->manual swap on my 940, but it seems like the kind of thing that I should do along with the motor (which refuses to die), and really what I want is the m90 (only sold in european 940T's god damnit I need to import one) or a T5 (requiring significant modification to the shift linkage and transmission casting). If it was me buying it I'd arrange to take it to a garage for a pre-purchase inspection, and get it up on a hoist to see exactly what it looks like underneath because "chassis has been rust proof and stiffened" makes me wonder what is going on down there. Also, have them look at the diff fluid, and as he only describes replacing the head, I would want a compression test on that block too, alongside whatever else a local mechanic wants to check out. Sure, it'll cost a few bucks, but there is almost always something revealed that needs to be done that usually helps bring the price down enough to compensate for the inspection cost. I think there are some possible red flags with this swap, but if it appears to be worked on competently it should be a pretty cool ride.
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Sep 20, 2016 20:47
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Thanks for the info! The car is 5 hours away, we'll try our best to get it inspected there. I'm currently awaiting pictures of the engine bay and underside, I'll share them when I get them! 
Olivil fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 22:14
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The Bilsteins and IPD parts are decent upgrades but the rest of the stuff the seller mentions in the ad falls squarely in the land of nice-to-have-but-not-special. The turbo he mentions is a stock Volvo part (and it's tiny), the engine is essentially the same as what the car came with except for slightly larger conrods and oil squirters to cool the pistons, and the 940 rear end is the same as the 740 rear, except there's a possibility that it has the G80 locker like Blitter mentioned. Unless he turned the boost up it's still basically stock.  I know it's a slightly different situation since you're in Canada, but in the US $4K gets you as perfect a 740 or 940 as you can find these days. Their value craters if they need even minor repairs and/or have rust issues, and at least on the enthusiast boards it seems like they languish forever because no one wants them or wants to spend any time or money on them. If the car in the ad isn't a rust bucket and all the work on it was done well it might be worth $2500 or so, but those are big ifs. e: if it's 5 hours away you might as well get one from BC or somewhere where they don't rust. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 20, 2016 22:51
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We're definitely going to try to negotiate it around 3500. Keep in mind manual (turbos) are hard to find here and that 4000 USD is roughly 5300 CAD. We don't really mind the trip so we're at least going to look at it. BC is a much longer ride (we're in Quebec, on the other side of Ontario). Still thanks a lot for the feedback it helps to put everything in perspective.
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Sep 20, 2016 23:30
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americong posted:volvofriends, I have found myself with an '82 245 that I wish to daily drive The motor mounts on a 240 (at least a later one) are a big pain in the cock, I've done them twice but it was many years ago. Art Benstein has the best way to lift a 240 engine/tranny up using the world's most versatile item, Unistrut (wrap towels around the ends so you don't run into the overlap, then return it when you're done.)  I am better at car work now than years ago but i had to go buy a 12mm flex gear wrench at a 24 hour Autozone at midnight which made the job possible, so that might help. This was on a B230F though so maybe the B21 era is slightly different. I'd have a cheater pipe handy for the gear wrench too but as I recall they weren't on too tightly. Actually, this was an '84 (I think) 240 so his notes might be relevant to you. He goes further than you would in teardown to get to the oilpan (which is a pain x 10 to get back installed on a B230.) http://cleanflametrap.com/oilpan/ If you have any questions ask and I'll try to remember. You could also email him and he'd probably respond, he's the champ of 240 documentation.
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Sep 21, 2016 01:02
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http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/5768680392.html Going to look at this later. I hate it's a branded title, but he's reasonable with the asking price and it's UTD on maintenance. We'll see. Is it even worth it getting the angle gear rebuilt? I'm in The South, so awd doesn't mean anything for me unless it makes a better driver.
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Oct 3, 2016 17:23
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angryrobots posted:http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/5768680392.html Biggest issue though, it was DOG slow. Seriously my old NA 850 would have smoked it. So there's something wrong there, and I'm not inclined to jump into that. Oh well, the (sorta) search continues.
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Oct 4, 2016 00:17
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This past Saturday the wife & I picked up a 1990 740 GL for 850 bones. The price was right and it's in decent shape, cosmetically. The steering is mighty stiff, though, but I don't think it's the pump so I'm going to go ahead and replace the rack, tie-rod ends & radius arm bushings too. I got the ball-joints done last weekend. Any tips or tricks I should know about? Edit; Done and done. It was pretty straight forward and, now, I own a ball-joint/tie-rod fork too! This will come in handy when I take care of my own wagon. For a Minnesota car it wasn't as bad as I thought, though, 1 of the steering rack bolts began to shear, so finding replacement hardware required visiting 2 different stores. Never the less, it came off without breaking after i cleaned the sludge off and attacked the nut on the back side. I hosed up by not buying a complete set of radius arm bushings. 2 conical and 1 inner mount per side. This weekend I'll tackle the remainder of job and pat myself on the back for a job well done. 197,000 miles on the original ball joints. lol stone soup fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Oct 11, 2016 |
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Oct 4, 2016 01:03
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Selling my 06 V70 if anybody cares. http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5824761079.html
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Oct 12, 2016 13:48
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Ugh. So I keep having the urge to pick up a cheap 240, 4-link it, fab struts, and cram a 2.5 Duratec in it and flog it like the cheap bitch it would have to be for me to bother with. ... someone talk me out of this?
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Oct 19, 2016 00:39
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mekilljoydammit posted:Ugh. So I keep having the urge to pick up a cheap 240, 4-link it, fab struts, and cram a 2.5 Duratec in it and flog it like the cheap bitch it would have to be for me to bother with. No. In fact, if you're anywhere near Virginia, I can supply the car (1989 245), for an incredibly small amount of money.
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Oct 19, 2016 01:07
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Terrible Robot posted:No. Wisconsin, so nowhere near, regrettably. Mostly I want to practice doing major unibody surgery on something I'm not emotionally attached to (1st gen RX-7s) but is still cool.
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Oct 19, 2016 01:10
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mekilljoydammit posted:Wisconsin, so nowhere near, regrettably. Mostly I want to practice doing major unibody surgery on something I'm not emotionally attached to (1st gen RX-7s) but is still cool. Ah, well good luck with your search. I, too, love SA/FBs a ton and will regret selling mine forever. Now... Anybody else interested in this 245?
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Oct 19, 2016 01:16
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Terrible Robot posted:Ah, well good luck with your search. I, too, love SA/FBs a ton and will regret selling mine forever. If we were closer, I'd trade you one for one.  (seriously, I accidentally have nearly a dozen shells)
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Oct 19, 2016 01:21
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mekilljoydammit posted:If we were closer, I'd trade you one for one. Ugh, I'd do that in a heartbeat too. drat you, Jefferson, for making this country so loving huge.
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Oct 19, 2016 01:26
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Terrible Robot posted:Anybody else interested in this 245? I want this god drat car but I won't travel across two countries for it 
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Oct 19, 2016 02:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I want this god drat car but I won't travel across two countries for it 
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Oct 19, 2016 03:16
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Well i had it for about a month, was about time someone killed it: Doesn't look to bad but:  loving airbags triggered. Passenger airbag cover smashed the windscreen as well. My loving ears were ringing for hours. Not worth repairing it with the blown airbags so it probably gets sold of to poland or wherever cars go when you hand them over to some sketchy dude wo insists on paying in cash. Theres a chance that i get more from the insurance and from selling the "wreck" than i paid for it so i not to mad. I liked that car though. More sad than mad. Edit: Oh yeah, found a piece of pointy plastic shrapnel lodged in the rear door window gasket. That would have been fun to catch with your face. Shai-Hulud fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Oct 20, 2016 |
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Oct 20, 2016 21:06
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This week I picked up a set of Michelin XI3s to put on the wife's 740; I think they'll be a good tire for a couple MN winters to come. I'm putting the hand-me-down Blizzaks on my wagon. Now, the most pressing issue with her car is a funky wiper issue. When we bought it the wipers would only work occasionally and never return to park. After investigating, it turns out that the intermittent wiper relay was removed for some reason (probably an attempt to fix the wipers). I robbed the relay off of my '89 and that solved the wipers not returning to park issue, but the wipers still will refuse to work sometimes. Turns out that if you physically move them a tiny bit they will start to work. No good for when you're moving. I'm thinking the problem lies in the motor. Luckily the semi-local pick-n-pull just got in a 940. I'm hoping I can snag a couple spare relays, the wiper motor, and also come away with a set of good seats to replace the ripped one's in her car. She has the black leather, but i'd love to find black cloth. It's a white 1994 940, so I'm thinking black cloth is likely. Fingers crossed!
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Oct 20, 2016 21:13
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Does anyone have good instructions on getting the dashboard out of a 2004 s40/v40? I need to change out the heater core.
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Oct 22, 2016 21:08
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I have a leftover Gates timing belt and water pump that I never installed, still brand new for a 06 V70 2.5T. Looks like it comes with a tensioner and idler pulley. GATES TCKWP331A {#WPK41110C} PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump Info One of our most popular parts Engine No. 3188689 & After; Interference engine application This is the rock auto image for it, I've never opened it.  $143 on rockauto, I'd sell it to a goon for $100 shipped.
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Oct 23, 2016 12:50
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allfinereallfit posted:Does anyone have good instructions on getting the dashboard out of a 2004 s40/v40? I need to change out the heater core. Might be :files: but I have the factory instructions, if you want them I can email them to you since you don't seem to have PMs. Someone on Matthew's or Swedespeed probably has a writeup with pictures.
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Oct 23, 2016 17:39
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The good news is that we found a replacement motor assembly at the junkyard and it went in with no trouble at all. The slightly disappointing news is we didn't come away with a set of seats. There were 2 of the 9XX series at the junkyard but both had power seats and I'm not having any of that. I elected to just snag the wiper assembly, a relay and couple window switches and then get of there. The unit with the blue marker came from the JY 1994 940 donor & the other unit is the kaput motor for the 1990 740.   Like i said it was really no trouble to put it in. 2 bolts to remove the wiper arms, 3 bolts for the cowl, 2 bolts holding the assembly down and 1 for the grounding strap. Remove the plastic motor surround, clean the debris out, freshen up the grounding point, grease the new assembly & reinstall. This is about all the action I captured  The JY motor works fine and isn't showing the same problems the old motor was so the operation was a success! Next weekend I need to peek behind the timing cover, check the other belts, see if there has been any oil usage since I gave it a change, put in a brake light (whiskey had me forget this weekend) and make sure the antifreeze is in good order for the frozen north. My own wagon needs some attention but I'm not sure if ill get to that. I gotta tackle the front brakes, ball-joints, most likely tie-rod ends, check belts/fluids, hunt down an exhaust rattle, put the snow tires on & maybe retime the car too. I think the PO may have done the timing belt and put it back together off a tooth. I'm running out of warm weather, fast. stone soup fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Oct 24, 2016 |
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Oct 24, 2016 13:55
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 Invalido posted:I got my new/old rear door in. No real problems, the only curve ball was the locking servo working out of synch with the rest of the car, necessitating reversing the polarity of a pair of wires. Not quite the same model year but a bit weird nevertheless. I guess I'll have to wait for cold weather before I can see how the defroster works.
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Oct 31, 2016 20:27
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zundfolge posted:Might be :files: but I have the factory instructions, if you want them I can email them to you since you don't seem to have PMs. Someone on Matthew's or Swedespeed probably has a writeup with pictures. That would be great. It's allfinerealfit at gmail. Thanks!
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Oct 31, 2016 21:53
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allfinereallfit posted:That would be great. It's allfinerealfit at gmail. Thanks! Sent!
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Nov 2, 2016 03:04
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Invalido posted:cable pinched or fatigued in the hinge  I can only speculate what caused this. There are signs of PO activity nearby, electric tape and whatnot. It's a little surprising that everything else electrical was still working, considering. I just soldered and taped up the damage. If this gives me any more trouble I'll probably just replace the whole thing with the loom I'm pretty sure I kept from the hatch with the broken glass. Anyways, the filaments are seemingly all intact and heating up now so it feels like a win even if the repair feels hack-ish.
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Nov 2, 2016 15:32
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My sister and her husband has a 2005 Volvo V70 2.4 (afaik regular B5224S engine) automatic, that just yesterday revealed a couple of interesting problems. First off, it won't come out of park. Sister said a couple times the shifter has been stuck, and only gotten it out of park after some wiggling and/or force. This morning when I checked it out (actually to troubleshoot the other issue), I couldn't shift it either, and I used all the wiggling I could and as much force as I dared. I can hear the shift locking solenoid click when I press the brake pedal, and the shifter feels differently when it's caught on that or the button on the shifter. I took it apart, and there was a third thing apparently locking the shifter in place. On the driver side of the shifter there is a white plastic arm that a pin on the shifter slides over, but that also can lock the shifter in park. A cable pulls on that arm lowering it a bit, freeing the shifter. That cable goes somewhere forward, but I don't know where. It seems this thing moves as soon as I turn the car "on" (not even turning the ignition on, accessory is enough). Seems weird, if they want something that only allows you to shift out of park when the key is turned, why not do that electrically with the same solenoid thing as the brake-activated one? This seems more expensive and unreliable. Here's a crappy picture of the white plastic arm, the cable below it, and the completely invisible shifter. Why is it there and what does it do?  Anyway, I just lubricated the plastic bits with PTFE, and hope that does it. If it keeps coming back and it doesn't add a lot of value, we could just delete it. A probably more serious issue is the CEL that lit up. Checked with an OBD2 scanner, said P0026. From what I can google, that's the intake VVT control solenoid being slow or malfunctioning. I cleared the code and it didn't come back after a short test drive (nor was it "pending"), so I guess it can't be that broken. There are unconfirmed rumours of the car being slightly slow under hard acceleration when it had the CEL. How do we troubleshoot this further? Just get a new solenoid and hope it does it?
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Nov 6, 2016 22:31
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I put a wanted ad on Craigslist for a set of cloth seats for the wife's 1990 740 and, about 3 weeks later, I got a reply from someone who said he had a complete set. This last weekend I drove an hour outside of town and met with a kindly older fella who has his entire family setup driving 740s/940s, as well as 3 parts cars (that I could see) hanging out. Swapped stories and Volvo chat while he let me pull a good looking complete set of blue cloth seats from his 740 sedan and at the end of the foray I had made a new connection for hard to find parts. I spent the rest of that afternoon giving the seats a gentle scrub with a warm water/laundry soap mix; for being about a quarter of a century old they're in great shape! After getting the driver's seat in I learned that the heated seat wiring is different between leather & cloth, with the former using a relay to control the temperature and latter using a thermostat, so it's not a plug-n-play job like I thought it would be. This wasn't a big deal since I just needed to change the seat-side connector and things were peachy keen. It started to get dark as I was buttoning things up & I noticed the driver's side switch wasn't lighting up--but after going for an ice-cream run the wife happily reported that despite the switch light being out the actual seat-warmer was functioning! Success! I'll try to snag pics when I have a moment because of course I didn't do it while I was actually working. Blah Whats next for her car? All new belts & tensioner and, if I'm getting that far in, then I might as well do the water-pump & a coolant flush too. stone soup fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 17:04
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ionn posted:My sister and her husband has a 2005 Volvo V70 2.4 (afaik regular B5224S engine) automatic, that just yesterday revealed a couple of interesting problems. The cable thing actually works the other way, it prevents you from removing the key unless the car is in park. It is moderately easy to remove if you want to remove it, but the risk is now being able to leave it in gear when you shut it off and get out. Of course manual cars don't have it as well as a majority of cars made before 2000, etc etc. If it's going bad so it prevents shifting, you should probably remove it. The other end just plugs into the ignition switch. ionn posted:A probably more serious issue is the CEL that lit up. Checked with an OBD2 scanner, said P0026. From what I can google, that's the intake VVT control solenoid being slow or malfunctioning. I cleared the code and it didn't come back after a short test drive (nor was it "pending"), so I guess it can't be that broken. There are unconfirmed rumours of the car being slightly slow under hard acceleration when it had the CEL. How do we troubleshoot this further? Just get a new solenoid and hope it does it? I would double check it with a Volvo-specific tool, generic codes can be mis-translated. On the other hand those solenoids seldom die so you could just replace it with a junkyard unit that has high odds of being good, and that will be relatively cheap. On the other hand it could also be a cam position sensor which are more likely to go out than the solenoid I think.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:49
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LloydDobler posted:The cable thing actually works the other way, it prevents you from removing the key unless the car is in park. It is moderately easy to remove if you want to remove it, but the risk is now being able to leave it in gear when you shut it off and get out. Of course manual cars don't have it as well as a majority of cars made before 2000, etc etc. If it's going bad so it prevents shifting, you should probably remove it. The other end just plugs into the ignition switch. Aha, that makes more sense. It does seem to serve the purpose of "no shifting unless key" too. While that thing is somewhat useful, given the choice I think they would rather have a car that reliably shifts into gear. But I have good hopes some lubrication every 10 years / 200000km will do the trick. LloydDobler posted:I would double check it with a Volvo-specific tool, generic codes can be mis-translated. On the other hand those solenoids seldom die so you could just replace it with a junkyard unit that has high odds of being good, and that will be relatively cheap. On the other hand it could also be a cam position sensor which are more likely to go out than the solenoid I think. I think it's time to get one of those Chinese cloned Volvo tools, as the nearby family is full of Volvos (two V70's and a V50). I saw some table showing both OBD2 codes and more detailed volvo-ish ones, and that one had different ones for "inlet cam position" (P0016) and "inlet cam control" (P0026) (+1 on each for exhaust), but I wouldn't trust those to not get confused when the ECU tries to make its mind up. We shall see if/when the code comes back. Both VVT solenoids (used) and cam position sensors (new) are pretty cheap, but the sensor is slightly cheaper and involves no gaskets or oil so I guess we shall start there. I've wrenched on some 2.5T engines that only had exhaust VVT, but from what I remember both VVT and cam sensor where pretty straightforward. That was a very stripped race car though, but it should all be up top and easily accessible as long as I get the plastic covers off. It also amazes me that the Volvo thread in the cars subforum here is more useful than an entire Swedish Volvo forums thing.
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Nov 7, 2016 21:35
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ionn posted:It also amazes me that the Volvo thread in the cars subforum here is more useful than an entire Swedish Volvo forums thing. Also I'm really missing my purple 850 turbo wagon right now. I mean it was a deferred maintenance headache, but I miss the good parts and want another one.
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Nov 8, 2016 02:01
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angryrobots posted:Also I'm really missing my purple 850 turbo wagon right now. If I were to drive a Volvo again as a "regular car", I'd go for an 850GLT, or possibly a 1st-gen V70 with some kind of turbo. Pretty much the same car with a facelift, but I'd stick 850 badges on it to mess with the natives. Going down the scale of more fun+stupid, I'd pick an 850R or T5R, followed by a Volvo 480 Turbo. My full-on insane Volvo dream car would be a PV544 or 444 with a B5254T4 swap, painted in the blue/white/red color scheme of childhood rallycross hero Grus-Kalle:  Legend has it he had a compartment in the trunk with gravel, for more rear weight and better traction off the starting line. Once off the pad, he would pull a lever to just dump the gravel back out on the track to shed the extra weight.
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Nov 8, 2016 09:23
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ionn posted:Aha, that makes more sense. It does seem to serve the purpose of "no shifting unless key" too. While that thing is somewhat useful, given the choice I think they would rather have a car that reliably shifts into gear. But I have good hopes some lubrication every 10 years / 200000km will do the trick. Any Links for this tool?
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Nov 8, 2016 15:37
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alternate.eago posted:Any Links for this tool? I just searched ebay for "volvo dice scanner" or "volvo vida scanner". Seems to turn up a bunch of sellers with the same ~$80 thing. I don't own one and have never used one, so I have no idea how well they perform. Some internet people seem to have good use for them though.
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Nov 8, 2016 15:45
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Thanks! I was kinda hoping for a non eBay route though, I haven't bought anything on eBay in like 4 years.
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Nov 8, 2016 16:33
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If you check the R forum on SwedeSpeed there's a map of R owners with the VIDA/DiCE tool. If one is local, you can probably bribe them with beer to scan the car with their tool. If you were near me I would help you out.
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Nov 8, 2016 18:25
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Yeah, I have one for any other Denver Volvo goons. Although I suspect I'd have met you already if you were here.ionn posted:If I were to drive a Volvo again as a "regular car"... It's funny how you describe this because I have this same list, and I currently own all 3 and am currently swapping a B5234T into the 122.    And I must be happy because I've had the C70 for 9 years, and the V70 and 122 for 7 years, and I have no plans to change up. I've never owned any other cars this long, ever. The closest is my first 122 which I owned for 6 years. I'd like to replace the V70 but if I do it'll be with another P2 V70. My current dream would be a 2005-2007 V70 T5 manual, white with black interior but they basically don't exist. I could build one, and I might have to. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 21:09
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netwerk23 posted:If you check the R forum on SwedeSpeed there's a map of R owners with the VIDA/DiCE tool. If one is local, you can probably bribe them with beer to scan the car with their tool. If you were near me I would help you out. I don't need one, my car is still under warranty, I just wanted one for the future.
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Nov 9, 2016 00:10
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