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Xequecal posted:I was just at a gas station filling up when some lady in an SUV reversed right into me. She was at the furthest pump and I pulled into the pump behind her, I had already gotten out and was paying at the pump when she put her SUV in reverse and backed right into me, apparently she never bothered to look. Not a lot of damage that I can see, but one of the front headlights was cracked. She literally looked at me and said, "Well, you're fine." I was like, "What do you mean, I'm fine?" She flipped me off and drove away. I got a cell phone picture of her SUV and the license plate, is this going to be worth the hassle to actually call the police over? I doubt fixing one headlight is even going to meet my deductible. If nothing else, in exchange for her pleasantries, give her the gift of a hit-and-run charge.
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Nov 11, 2016 17:02
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Xequecal posted:I was just at a gas station filling up when some lady in an SUV reversed right into me. She was at the furthest pump and I pulled into the pump behind her, I had already gotten out and was paying at the pump when she put her SUV in reverse and backed right into me, apparently she never bothered to look. Not a lot of damage that I can see, but one of the front headlights was cracked. She literally looked at me and said, "Well, you're fine." I was like, "What do you mean, I'm fine?" She flipped me off and drove away. I got a cell phone picture of her SUV and the license plate, is this going to be worth the hassle to actually call the police over? I doubt fixing one headlight is even going to meet my deductible. I must be an rear end in a top hat, because I would have been on the phone with the police about 3 seconds after that interaction.
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Nov 11, 2016 17:14
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Yeah what? Also, if an accident is 100% not-at-fault, don't you not pay the deductible? Her insurance would pay the deductible, right? No idea why you didn't call the police immediately. If the gas station has cameras, there is a limited amount of time before it's recorded over. For the cops, it's a slam-dunk hit and run if there's a camera. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Nov 11, 2016 |
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Nov 11, 2016 17:26
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Michael Scott posted:Yeah what? Also, if an accident is 100% not-at-fault, don't you not pay the deductible? Her insurance would pay the deductible, right? Her insurance would pay, if they accepted liability. If not, you're on the hook for the deductible.
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Nov 11, 2016 17:32
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Michael Scott posted:Yeah what? Also, if an accident is 100% not-at-fault, don't you not pay the deductible? Her insurance would pay the deductible, right? I did call the police nonemergency number. They said I would have to come into the station and fill out an accident report, that's why I asked if this would be worth the hassle. I've never had anyone drive off on me before.
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Nov 11, 2016 17:36
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Xequecal posted:I did call the police nonemergency number. They said I would have to come into the station and fill out an accident report, that's why I asked if this would be worth the hassle. I've never had anyone drive off on me before. Did you explain that it was a hit and run? I find it hard to believe they wouldn't send an officer out for that. Probably should have called the emergency number, that's what I would have done. In my area, the non-emergency number doesn't have the capability to dispatch an officer. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Her insurance would pay, if they accepted liability. If not, you're on the hook for the deductible. I would never accept paying the deductible for that clear non-liability. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Nov 11, 2016 |
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Nov 11, 2016 18:09
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Michael Scott posted:Did you explain that it was a hit and run? I find it hard to believe they wouldn't send an officer out for that. Probably should have called the emergency number, that's what I would have done. In my area, the non-emergency number doesn't have the capability to dispatch an officer. A lot of places police won't respond to traffic accidents without injuries. They're simply too understaffed. And as for you not accepting it, they'd just pay you the amount less your deductible. Your deductible is your self insured portion. If you had it in for repairs and didn't pay the shop, they'd just keep your car.
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Nov 11, 2016 18:21
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Yeah in CA even in a hit-and-run if there are no injuries and damage is below $750 you just file a report, you will not get an officer on-scene. Other states differ. You can however talk to the gas station immediately and ask them for video, they might cooperate. If you have "uninsured motorist" coverage in CA, that includes hit&run, but it depends on your coverage whether there's a deductible or not. My deductible is $500.
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Nov 11, 2016 19:33
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DavidAlltheTime posted:Hey thanks! I'll check it out tomorrow. I'm talking about the exhaust (hotside), the crudding up of the variable vanes is a known issue on this engine in particular. Basically, check for crud anywhere you have a reasonable ability to. Plus Cop Porn Popper posted:Don't worry, asking questions is how you learn!
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Nov 11, 2016 21:37
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Low power / no-turbo Golf chat continued... I took the Golf over to my dad's today to have a look at it. Well, we found the actuator, and it was jammed. I could just barely jiggle it to get it to move.  So we took the EGR valve pipe off, and look how cruddy it is!  Stupidly though, we couldn't find oven cleaner that had a pipe that fit into the nozzle, so we couldn't rig it up to a longer, flexible hose like in the videos we found online. We put some oven cleaner in the EGR valve pipe and blew it in with a vacuum. I may have caught some oven cleaner in the face on the first attempt. Goddammit. (we both had goggles and gloves) More pushing on the actuator, and now it moves! Probably pretty close to 3/4", but not easily. It's still very stiff. I think I detect a slight increase in power when driving the car, but not a significant amount. We might try another round of oven cleaner tomorrow, since it was fairly easy to do and now we know the procedure. Is there anything else we could try?
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Nov 12, 2016 03:26
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There's always the nuclear option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIijYgvxW0g&t=55s
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Nov 12, 2016 03:35
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DavidAlltheTime posted:Low power / no-turbo Golf chat continued... Oven cleaner probably isn't very effective as it mainly uses lye to dissolve the natural fat residues caked in ovens. It won't do much with petroleum-based goo like that. I'm not sure what to recommend, though. It may take some manual scrubbing with a toothbrush. Perhaps some WD40 or something like it would loosen it up?
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Nov 12, 2016 05:01
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Panther Piss will take care of it. http://www.messicks.com/part/b505501/penet-oil Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Nov 12, 2016 |
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Nov 12, 2016 06:28
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Some engine degreaser, parts wash or good ol brake cleaner/carb cleaner would probably do the trick. Or you know, panther piss.
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Nov 12, 2016 06:40
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Is it okay running all these through the system after I pour them in? Will they just come out the exhaust? Since we can't find a way to guide the foam oven cleaner down into the turbo, I would prefer a liquid of some sort, I just want to ensure that nothing will blow up if it's sitting in there when I turn the car on. Thanks for all the advice, everyone!
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Nov 12, 2016 07:24
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The oven cleaner does help, I've seen it first hand, on that exact engine. It doesn't have to totally clean it out, just loosen the hold the stuff has and then you take the car out for a good rag to blow it out a bit. The hotside of the turbo is cast iron, not aluminium, it's pretty resilient. You specifically want the foaming kind, so it doesn't just dribble straight out, you use a bit of washer jet tubing through the EGR port to get it in there. It's a  solution that involves very little work and might solve your problem completely, I'd always try it first.DavidAllTheTime's example is particularly bad, so I wouldn't expect miracles, but there should be some improvement. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Nov 12, 2016 |
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Nov 12, 2016 14:47
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Yeah, my trouble is that we cannot find foaming oven cleaner that has a straw, so we can connect it to a tube. We looked everywhere we could think of for it, with no luck.
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Nov 12, 2016 19:08
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I'm not sure I'm following. You just put the tube onto the aerosol can, or you could swap the nozzle for onw with a little spigot if that makes it easier. You can actually buy "proper" aerosol nozzles with extension hoses on them, but I've always just bodged it as necessary when I needed to squirt something in an awkward place.
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Nov 12, 2016 19:15
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Looking at buying a used 2013 Chevy Volt. I'm in Texas and have only owned Texas cars, and this thing spent two winters in Detroit Michigan. How scary is the corrosion (body/suspension/electrical) from the salt up there, and should I even bother driving an hour to take a look at it or just find an original Texas/California car? (Cars don't rust in San Antonio/Dallas much, and my impression is that driving north of Arkansas in the winter == immediate car corrosion carnage and long term issues, correct me if I'm wrong)
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Nov 12, 2016 20:16
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blugu64 posted:Looking at buying a used 2013 Chevy Volt. I'm in Texas and have only owned Texas cars, and this thing spent two winters in Detroit Michigan. How scary is the corrosion (body/suspension/electrical) from the salt up there, and should I even bother driving an hour to take a look at it or just find an original Texas/California car? Former Volt owner. I personally would inspect any car before buying. The underside of the Volt is almost completely covered in plastic trays/shields for aero purposes. Electrical components are almost completely shielded from the elements. Body wise, I'd focus on the wheel lips, lower doors for rust or scratches, otherwise you should be fine there. Suspension parts will be a bitch 10 years from now (presuming you'll still have the car then) when they need replacing. They're good cars, highly recommend springing for the 240V home charger. PM me if you want more deets
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Nov 12, 2016 21:09
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How do I have the car run without accessory power? After cleaning my throttle body, I'm supposed to do an idle relearn because Honda. Ok, seems simple enough, warm car up, pull battery cable for 5-10 minutes, reattach cable, start car, don't touch the brake or gas, have no accessories on, and let it idle for an aditional 10 minutes. Then turn off the car, turn it back on, and go for a quick drive how I normally would. Done and done. However, accessories turn on automatically as soon as the starter is released, and there's no way to turn off accessory power once the engine is running. I'm feeling really dumb, like I'm missing something painfully obvious here
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Nov 13, 2016 02:33
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Enourmo posted:There's always the nuclear option: That is some of the most metal poo poo I've seen. 
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Nov 13, 2016 03:35
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The Door Frame posted:How do I have the car run without accessory power? After cleaning my throttle body, I'm supposed to do an idle relearn because Honda. In this case, it means make sure the radio, ac, heater, fan, headlights, etc etc all turned off, and don't use the power windows, locks, rear window defrost, interior lights, etc. The radiator fan will probably cycle once or twice depending on the weather, but that's fine. Personally I'd roll down the drivers side window before starting the car, but close the door once it's running to turn off the interior lights. That way there's less chance of locking the keys in.
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Nov 13, 2016 03:57
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:In this case, it means make sure the radio, ac, heater, fan, headlights, etc etc all turned off, and don't use the power windows, locks, rear window defrost, interior lights, etc. The radiator fan will probably cycle once or twice depending on the weather, but that's fine. Oh wow, that loving simple. The guides make it sound like there's some magic key setting I've missed. Thank you sir
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Nov 13, 2016 04:25
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Just got into my 2004 Hyundai Sonata and started the engine. Car starts shaking and it sounds like the engine is dying. A constant "revving" just about every second and the electrics go in tune with the revving. Any idea what the problem most likely is before I tow it to my guy on Monday?
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Nov 13, 2016 05:44
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah in CA even in a hit-and-run if there are no injuries and damage is below $750 you just file a report, you will not get an officer on-scene. Other states differ. They found the lady that hit me. She has no insurance, (obviously) and I have a $500 deductible on uninsured motorist coverage so I'm stuck paying for the $350 headlight myself.
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Nov 13, 2016 16:40
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Xequecal posted:They found the lady that hit me. She has no insurance, (obviously) and I have a $500 deductible on uninsured motorist coverage so I'm stuck paying for the $350 headlight myself. Yes but VENGEANCE
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Nov 13, 2016 16:57
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Xequecal posted:They found the lady that hit me. She has no insurance, (obviously) and I have a $500 deductible on uninsured motorist coverage so I'm stuck paying for the $350 headlight myself. Deal her some justice. Hit and run has no justification, she deserves whatever charges stick to her for that kind of poo poo. E: when some idiot backed into my parked jeep a few years ago and was about to drive off (I saw it happen from my window) I ended up getting 350 bucks from my insurance and fixed the damage with 150 bucks of junkyard and craigslist parts. If you take her to court I bet she has 350 bucks for you and you can fix it with a jy headlight for $25. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Nov 13, 2016 |
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Nov 13, 2016 17:59
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Xequecal posted:They found the lady that hit me. She has no insurance, (obviously) and I have a $500 deductible on uninsured motorist coverage so I'm stuck paying for the $350 headlight myself. Time for small claims court.
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Nov 13, 2016 18:47
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Fix it yourself and pursue pressing charges if allowed. What a poo poo bag.
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Nov 13, 2016 18:50
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Mordecai Sanchez posted:Just got into my 2004 Hyundai Sonata and started the engine. Car starts shaking and it sounds like the engine is dying. A constant "revving" just about every second and the electrics go in tune with the revving. Any idea what the problem most likely is before I tow it to my guy on Monday? Battery is probably dying. Take it out and get autozone to test it by charging and load testing. Also check cables for corrosion or being loose.
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Nov 13, 2016 18:51
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Christobevii3 posted:Battery is probably dying. Take it out and get autozone to test it by charging and load testing. Also check cables for corrosion or being loose. The good news is the engine is no longer violently revving. The bad news is that the car dies a second after I start the engine. Hopefully it is just the battery and not the engine. Just had a new one installed last year (and the AAA guy who installed it would not shut up about the battery that he was replacing was just a year old...) Or is it more likely the alternator since I started the car and it dies a second later. WerthersWay fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 13, 2016 |
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Nov 13, 2016 20:08
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Mordecai Sanchez posted:The good news is the engine is no longer violently revving. The bad news is that the car dies a second after I start the engine. Hopefully it is just the battery and not the engine. Just had a new one installed last year (and the AAA guy who installed it would not shut up about the battery that he was replacing was just a year old...) Seeing as your car has been eating batteries at a rate of 1 per year, it would make sense to have your charging system tested at a mechanic.
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Nov 13, 2016 20:39
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Michael Scott posted:Seeing as your car has been eating batteries at a rate of 1 per year, it would make sense to have your charging system tested at a mechanic. Battery is fine. AAA was just over and turns out the air intake regulator had become dislodged and fallen off.
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Nov 13, 2016 20:44
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My wife's automatic ZX2 is making a rattling noise sometimes while at low speeds or while stopped on the brake in gear. It's not 100% of the time, but it's frequent. We're taking it to the mechanic as soon as we can get an appointment, we only noticed it Friday night. I'm thinking that based on it being at low speeds and when stopped, it might be a torque converter thing. Does that sound possible, or am I being paranoid? It's been having enough problems that if we need to pay for major transmission work, we might just have to buy a different car. Which would really, really suck. It's only at 40k miles, and the AC has gone out multiple times due to vacuum system problems. And since they don't make parts for it anymore and the mechanics won't use used parts, they have just bodged crap together and it keeps failing. The rattling sounds kind of like if a body panel was flapping back and forth. Maybe I'm just being paranoid and one of those panels on the undercarriage worked itself loose. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Nov 13, 2016 |
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Nov 13, 2016 21:43
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It's probably a heat shield that's worked its way loose and is rattling. Possibly the most irritating thing that can happen to a car.
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Nov 14, 2016 00:09
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Can someone give me a break down of all the tools I'll for sure need to replace a tapered wheel bearing in a parking lot? And possibly a write up? I know basically, but the last time I did this was 15 years ago 
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Nov 14, 2016 01:08
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Why not get AAA and have them tow it to your house or a friends house?
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Nov 14, 2016 01:58
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Christobevii3 posted:Why not get AAA and have them tow it to your house or a friends house? Because that's about four times the cost of wheel bearings? And if needed I have all the tools I'd need where it's parked, I'd just rather not have to use work tools on my pos. Edit: and I could get it home for like $20 plus gas, but that's even more pain in the rear end than just doing it where it sits.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:09
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Revol posted:I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon v6, Turns out to have been a minor fix. I took it to my local shop, they drove it, and said it'd cost over 2 grand to rebuild the trans, over 1 grand to replace with used. I finally did something I should have done from the very beginning; search on Google. Turns out, there is a known issue when a car loses power that the TCM gets messed up, and can cause issues. As I was reading about this on a Tiburon forum, everything fell into place; this is exactly what happened to me. I remembered that this issue started occuring for me the minute I left the autoshop when I had to get my battery replaced. The known issue specifically mentions hard shifting between 2nd and 3rd gears. Went to the local Hyundai dealership, they looked at it for three hours, and $130 later, my car is driving normally again.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:11
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