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Think through requirements carefully and pull extra cable. Have a receiver? Run an optical audio cable from your tv to your receiver, then you can get 5.1 via OTA.
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Nov 4, 2016 18:30
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Ah so everything else (HDMI, component, etc) is ok to run through the wall? Yeah those are fine. I assume this is an interior wall right? You might run into some fire blocking (horizontal 2x4s in between the studs - http://www.howstuffworks.com/how-to-frame-a-partition.htm) If you do run into one you can buy a drill bit extender (usually in the wiring section at HD and Lowes) and try to drill through the 2x4 blocker using the existing holes you cut in the drywall, or you can cut another hole closer to where the 2x4 blocker is and drill through it that way. If you do the second option you will probably have to patch the hole.
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Nov 4, 2016 19:12
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Whoops wrong thread.
Jealous Cow fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Nov 4, 2016 |
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Nov 4, 2016 20:46
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devmd01 posted:Think through requirements carefully and pull extra cable. Have a receiver? Run an optical audio cable from your tv to your receiver, then you can get 5.1 via OTA. I thought about this, and while I'm probably going to run 3 or 4 HDMI cables down, this TV is going to be a slave to the Amazon Fire TV below it for content. Everything else is moving elsewhere in the house, it's only for 4K, movies, etc. Everything for the speakers is going to be handled in a separate cabinet below. I think I just need the HDMI cables.
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Nov 4, 2016 20:49
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Yeah those are fine. I assume this is an interior wall right? Yeah this possibility is actually pretty scary. I've thought about investing in a fiberoptic camera, but I think they're kind of expensive for this one stupid job, but it might help me figure out how the house is wired for ethernet. (The builders put CAT5 all over the house but there are NO drops. I opened a coaxial panel and saw that the CAT5 is running up north out of it but I don't know where it loving ends, ugh.)
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Nov 4, 2016 20:50
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I just crawled through my 3' attic to run two ethernet drops before I blow in insulation and fill the whole cavity with sweet money saving insulation. I ran one for a security camera i plan to mount on my roof for visibility of my driveway and I just exited out of the gable vent. Is the ideal solution to drill an exit hole for it? My main concern is making sure it's high up enough that someone can't easily cut it.
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Nov 4, 2016 21:25
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Yeah this possibility is actually pretty scary. I've thought about investing in a fiberoptic camera, but I think they're kind of expensive for this one stupid job, but it might help me figure out how the house is wired for ethernet. (The builders put CAT5 all over the house but there are NO drops. I opened a coaxial panel and saw that the CAT5 is running up north out of it but I don't know where it loving ends, ugh.) You can buy a rotoscope on Amazon for like 40 bucks. Hooks up to usb. Don't put it inside of anything living though.
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Nov 4, 2016 21:54
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Bozart posted:You can buy a rotoscope on Amazon for like 40 bucks. Hooks up to usb. Don't put it inside of anything living though. I think you meant "borescope" but I found them! And don't worry, I'm an anesthesiologist so I have plenty of these to use on living things at work! (The cheapest one of these is $20, what an absurdly good deal).
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Nov 4, 2016 22:54
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HEY NONG MAN posted:I just crawled through my 3' attic to run two ethernet drops before I blow in insulation and fill the whole cavity with sweet money saving insulation. Depends on the camera. Most dome cameras will have rom inside to bundle cable so you mount them right on top of the home and have no wires visible. I ended up mounting all my bullet and some cams onto junction boxes anyways, just makes it easier to deal with. They make boxes that fit perfectly under some common cameras too.
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Nov 5, 2016 19:22
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Ooh junction box mounting is a good idea... Then I could run the cable through some conduit and keep it protected all the way to the camera. I'll move over to the home security thread for camera model choices.
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Nov 5, 2016 20:52
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I am pretty happy with my combination of Blue Iris software and Hikvision PoE cameras (DS-2CD2342WD-I and DS-2CD2042WD-I). It's relatively cheap and nice quality stuff. The cameras are mounted directly to the side of the house with ethernet running directly to them through the wall - no need for conduit or junction boxes. I did mount a couple away from my house on a concrete fence and used some flexible conduit and junction boxes, but it was a big pain in the rear end to find all the right parts to make it work nicely so you should try to avoid that if possible.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:52
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Ooh junction box mounting is a good idea... Then I could run the cable through some conduit and keep it protected all the way to the camera. I was not aware we had such a thing... Could you link me or tell me which subforum? A cursory google search isn't proving useful
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Nov 5, 2016 23:19
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OSU_Matthew posted:I was not aware we had such a thing... Could you link me or tell me which subforum? A cursory google search isn't proving useful https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635963
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Nov 5, 2016 23:39
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For my TV I bought some raceway, painted it the color of the wall and mounted it to run from behind my TV to below the top of the stand below it. It works great and changing out cables (not that this happens often) is very easy.
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Nov 6, 2016 02:50
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Anyone have any good primers for dealing with plumbing, especially PEX? Went to go replace a faucet and found a t-connector on the supply. I think it's PEX, but the connectors are all white PVC plastic, and I thought PEX fittings were metal.
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Nov 6, 2016 17:02
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Citizen Z posted:Anyone have any good primers for dealing with plumbing, especially PEX? Went to go replace a faucet and found a t-connector on the supply. I think it's PEX, but the connectors are all white PVC plastic, and I thought PEX fittings were metal. Is the piping itself rigid and white? It may be CPVC and not PEX. Start here for figuring out what you have: http://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Building_Piping_Guide.php devicenull fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 19:43
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That helped, I didn't realize there were different PEX connector systems. Looks like it's ViegaPEX. Here's what the connector looks like:  I'm guessing there's some tool like the Sharkbite stuff has that I'm going to have to find to undo it, replace the T coupling with a different one and reattach it all? Edit: holy tables, batman. Citizen Z fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 01:56
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Ooh junction box mounting is a good idea... Then I could run the cable through some conduit and keep it protected all the way to the camera. Here's how mine looked after I painted the conduit to match.  It's just 1/2 electrical PVC but it works well.
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Nov 7, 2016 18:07
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I don't know if it's GWM or not but after I couldn't find any NiCad batteries to replace the old set on the Rockwell drill I inherited, I was able to stack some discounts and get a new Makita 18V 1/2" drill for $17.00
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Nov 8, 2016 04:02
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Took me all day Saturday and Sunday, but I got all of the 1/4rd trim cut out, angled, trimmed, etc. Not hard to do but tedious and obnoxious to do it right. Got it all stained last night so hopefully I can spend some quality time with the nailgun after voting this evening. Hooray sweat equity!
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Nov 8, 2016 13:51
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Speaking of hardware stores - has anybody here done their own TV mount? I've wall mounted a computer monitor, but never a TV. Also, I would want to run the cables through the wall. Is it worth it to just pay somebody $200 or are the tools I'd need (I really ONLY have a drill) useful in the future for other projects? It's super easy. I ordered this wire kit off Amazon for $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this mount for $25 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TIG36C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The only thing I didnt have was a drywall saw, and that only cost like $9 at Home Depot. It took me maybe an hour or two or so to get the mount on the wall in the best place, and then I knew where to put the holes for the wiring kits, get the TV on the wall mount and get everything plugged in.
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Nov 9, 2016 17:07
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Woo, got the trim stained and installed. Just need to touch up the nail holes and I'm done!
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Nov 9, 2016 18:01
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devmd01 posted:Woo, got the trim stained and installed. Just need to touch up the nail holes and I'm done! This looks so, so much better than that awful loving laminate product everyone's putting in everything these days. Are you worried about leaking in the kitchen at all though? Did you ever consider tile instead?
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Nov 9, 2016 18:20
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Not really. I just installed a new faucet so that's covered, and I bought new washer hoses before we reinstalled it. We also have a couple full boxes of replacement pieces. Should be enough to do the washer dryer area if something goes wrong there.
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Nov 9, 2016 18:36
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devmd01 posted:Woo, got the trim stained and installed. Just need to touch up the nail holes and I'm done! I applaud you, but this is very 80's/early 90's.
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Nov 9, 2016 19:20
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Wood never goes out of style. 
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Nov 9, 2016 19:26
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Are those epoxy coat garage floors a waste? I'm painting my garage walls now (were unfinished drywall when we bought), and starting thinking about ways to make it nicer. The price isn't too bad, but anything I should watch out for?
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Nov 10, 2016 17:06
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They're a bitch to do right and the flecks will never ever be perfectly spaced and you'll be looking at that clump in the corner for the rest of your life. If you're cool with that then they're pretty sweet.
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Nov 11, 2016 07:24
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I do a lot of car work at home, and I love my "epoxy" floor. Personally I'd go with a different coating, mine is the polyurea Rock Solid brand. I'd also do without the chips if I were to do it over, I think a solid color with some silica sand thrown over would look much better. At least the chips in mine hide how much dirt is on mine between sweepings. It'd be way too much work to grind and refinish it now, so I'll just leave it how it is.
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Nov 12, 2016 05:24
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We're starting the process of rebuilding my home after the floods. House is gutted, things are moving along. Of course, I get a call yesterday that they found termite damage in 2 studs.  Contractor wants to redo the roof because it leaked during the storm. Homeowner's Insurance Adjuster says the ridge vent and 1 small section of shingles can be replaced + ceiling damage. Contractor says it'd be $7500 to redo the roof totally. I can't really afford it but at the same time, I'm scared the roof will leak again and ruin the work we're already doing. The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask / Tell > Business, Finance, and Careers > Homeownership: Stress is only the beginning
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Nov 15, 2016 17:19
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Irritated Goat posted:We're starting the process of rebuilding my home after the floods. House is gutted, things are moving along. Can you push back on the adjuster some? Seems like if it's still leaking from the flood and storm then it should be covered.
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Nov 15, 2016 17:31
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I just ran across these infographics and thought I'd post them here since someone asked about home maintenance lists earlier in the thread. Might be worth adding to the OP http://www.todayshomeowner.com/4seasons/
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Nov 18, 2016 02:18
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OSU_Matthew posted:I just ran across these infographics and thought I'd post them here since someone asked about home maintenance lists earlier in the thread. Might be worth adding to the OP These are pretty nice. Lots to keep straight here.
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Nov 18, 2016 04:20
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No Butt Stuff posted:Can you push back on the adjuster some? Seems like if it's still leaking from the flood and storm then it should be covered. Well, we haven't been in the house since August because it was uninhabitable. We also haven't really had much rain either to really prove one way or another.
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Nov 18, 2016 16:44
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I bought my house in Jan and it wasn't very well taken care of. It has a 15 year old water heater that seems to be working ok. Should I drain it or is that risky?
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Nov 18, 2016 17:30
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I bought my house in Jan and it wasn't very well taken care of. It has a 15 year old water heater that seems to be working ok. Should I drain it or is that risky? We have a 25 year old (gas) water heater. I'm afraid to drain it in case the sludge is the only thing holding it together.
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Nov 18, 2016 17:39
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I wouldn't worry about it, it will fail and drain itself soon enough! At least ours was in the garage and still covered under warranty, just had to pay the $200 installed fee.
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Nov 18, 2016 18:45
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OSU_Matthew posted:I just ran across these infographics and thought I'd post them here since someone asked about home maintenance lists earlier in the thread. Might be worth adding to the OP Why can't I view the winter one until Dec. 21? Snow, freezing temps, etc... don't adhere to that strict Dec 21 calendar date of "First Day of Winter." I had to replace my silcock a few months ago because even though last winter I turned it off from inside, AND opened up the drain plug in the inside AND opened up the silcock outside, some water was still trapped inside and the pipe burst. It had to make a 90-degree turn under the deck, and the corner was suspended lower than the silcock and internal drain plug/valve, so water pooled there. I don't know how the previous owner was able to not have it burst on him. I took out the long copper pipe and 90-degree bend and put a frost-free silcock, so I should be good for this winter. Speaking of winter-prep, my front entryway gets freezing. It's a raised ranch, so I've got to figure out if it's chill coming in through bad insulation/weather-stripping in the front door, or just coming up from the basement area.
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Nov 18, 2016 20:34
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I bought my house in Jan and it wasn't very well taken care of. It has a 15 year old water heater that seems to be working ok. Should I drain it or is that risky? Where is it located? What is it going to flood when it fails? We just replaced our 14 year old one (which had a 9 year warranty), because when it failed it was going to flood the entire house (single story on a slab). Fun fact: As of recently, water heaters have to have much more insulation, which means they're much bigger. We replaced a 50g one with a 40g one, and the new one was an inch wider and about 6 inches taller. There is no more room in our closet for any bigger water heater. devicenull fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 00:34
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I take back all the good things I've ever said about trees. Stupid leaves.
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Nov 19, 2016 00:38
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