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e: pay attention to slung blade Pimblor fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 01:12
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| # ? May 23, 2024 08:35 |
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Yooper posted:If you are where I think you are, head down to Coplans on Saturday morning and browse through the steel pile. You're likely to find a chunk of steel that meets your needs. You'll get it for scrap price which is some ridiculously low value right now. Just beware you might get an alloy of steel that you can't touch without carbide tooling. You seem to know EXACTLY where I'm at  I've been meaning to get over there for a steel drum too.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:34
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I've posted this about five times in this thread now, but if you're going to use rail for an anvil (don't. Do what Ambrose said.) then check the OP, there's a good example of the correct way to mount it for the best effect.
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Nov 7, 2016 08:46
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A day later than I said, but this is what I was working on (dice bag for a table-top gamer):  
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Nov 7, 2016 12:18
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Gray Stormy posted:You seem to know EXACTLY where I'm at If you need a "nicer" barrel let me know. I just got a shipment in that are European sizing with locking lids. They're cool looking barrels, at least as far as barrels go. I lurk in TFR and saw you mention our area a few times before.
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Nov 7, 2016 14:36
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armorer posted:A day later than I said, but this is what I was working on (dice bag for a table-top gamer): that's a hella swank dice bag, dang, good work
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Nov 7, 2016 17:09
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Thanks! I ended up going over the blackened background with a fine point permanent marker to even out the color a bit. The gun blue did work though in general, and would have been fine for the thin line sections. The large open area was a bit less evenly black than I wanted though.
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Nov 7, 2016 17:34
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When looking to buy an anvil, don't neglect Craigslist. They're out there. Lots of barn finds and anvils that have been used as yard decoration that have lots of surface rust and maybe some pitting, but if you can get one for two hundred bucks ish, it'll probably be fine as a starter anvil.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:08
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I wouldn't go with a track anvil either if I didn't already have one(dad gave me mine when I was about 10). If you want one go find where they're doing work on the local railroad and ask is your best bet. You can bolt a foot or so across the end of a heavy bench and I find it useful for things like minor adjustments on sheet metal, straightening up short bits of scrap rod and other light work. Honestly it mostly just gets used to chock stuff against so it doesn't go off the end of the bench, and support the long end of things hanging out the vice. They are handy for that sort of stuff so if you can get a chunk for free it might be worth it but otherwise just go to a scrapyard and buy a large chunk of steel.
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Nov 7, 2016 21:33
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4 hours in to cleaning my bench so I can move my shop setup to my new job. 8 years of chips and tools is a lot of poo poo.
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Nov 9, 2016 21:13
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What brand of welders do you guys prefer?
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Nov 10, 2016 05:09
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Ones not made in china.
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Nov 10, 2016 07:42
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What brand of welders do you guys prefer? Whichever kind you find in welding shops near you. Which means they are both high quality and serviceable. For the US this typically means red or blue welders.
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Nov 10, 2016 14:34
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For europe, kemppi, esab, fronius.
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Nov 10, 2016 14:42
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Hobart are made by Miller, just using lower quality parts. Any of the big three (Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart) will be good. Dealer support is pretty important, support your LWS and they'll usually reward you with discounts.
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Nov 10, 2016 16:01
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Brand doesn't matter as long as it was made before WW2. Those fuckers were built to last.
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Nov 10, 2016 22:26
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Respek for turning a cane into a socially-acceptable bludgeon, but if youve got a cane with a secret compartment and you don't actively use it to stash your weed and/or a bespoke contouring flask, you are loving up 
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Nov 11, 2016 01:23
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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lol excellent
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Nov 12, 2016 01:29
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I wanna get some really compact sharpening/honing solutions to keep in my toolbox at school for fine-tuning lathe bits and mills and such. I think the smartest thing is to pick up some of that 3M adhesive-backed honing film- couple bucks per sheet to replace a whole bunch of expensive n bulky stones, sure, absolutely. Question is, what's a good substrate to stick the film to? Glass would perform great but it'll get broken really fast in a toolbox. Wood's too soft and water will make it fucky, plastics -might- be fine but again they're soft. I think some pre-ground tool steel flats might be the best idea, I'm just concerned that they'll be prone to deforming if dropped unless they're thick enough that they're prohibitively-heavy to be dragging around all the time.
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Nov 12, 2016 01:36
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wanna get some really compact sharpening/honing solutions to keep in my toolbox at school for fine-tuning lathe bits and mills and such. I think the smartest thing is to pick up some of that 3M adhesive-backed honing film- couple bucks per sheet to replace a whole bunch of expensive n bulky stones, sure, absolutely. Superfinishing tape has tensile strength like whoa, get it in strip form and make a couple rollers to pull it tight dental floss style.
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Nov 12, 2016 02:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wanna get some really compact sharpening/honing solutions to keep in my toolbox at school for fine-tuning lathe bits and mills and such. I think the smartest thing is to pick up some of that 3M adhesive-backed honing film- couple bucks per sheet to replace a whole bunch of expensive n bulky stones, sure, absolutely. Thick polycarbonate should do you and not be too heavy or "soft"
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Nov 13, 2016 21:57
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Yeah, Lexan is the way to go. I made a razor strop/hone with a bit of denim glued to the glass from an unused picture frame, that went poorly (i.e., it broke, but luckily the fabric glued to it kept the pieces together), v2.0 was on a bit of Lexan, it works great (except the melted-on handle broke off).
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Nov 14, 2016 00:59
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Nice, my dad's been hoarding a 3/8" or so sheet of Lexan for years, I can deffo beg a 2" or so strip off the end to chop into individual plates.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:36
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i think i'm actually gonna grab a set of lil paddle diamond hones from Lee Valley (A-D), they're a lot better-suited for the tooling n cutter touch-ups I'd really be using them for, price is pretty good, and I can live with it being harder to sharpen knives with em in the tradeoff. Scary sharpening on lexan can wait. 
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Nov 15, 2016 20:54
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I have a few sets of those. Decent things. I got mine from Busy Bee I think.
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Nov 16, 2016 02:27
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I love hearing about someone else's monumental fuckups. Two retired machinists came in today to set up our new (to us) shear and giant bandsaw. Someone tried unloading a big ol' CNC laser cutter by sliding it down a ramp into position. It tumbled. Then they tried flipping it over with a couple forklifts. It was apparently, uh.... unusuable. I think AvE? got a bridgeport mill and slid it down a ramp to get it into place? I remember being uncomfortable watching that video. I can't imagine watching the couple hundred thousand dollar laser cutter tumble.
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Nov 16, 2016 16:03
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I've slid small machines (bridgeport, surface grinder, OD grinder) off of forklift forks and even that felt sketchy. I couldn't imagine doing anything of any size. We purchased a brand new grinder, had a massive forklift unload it, spent a week setting it up, leveling it, vibe damping all of the pads, basically making it a big beautiful cell. The sales rep, and the grinder rep both showed for the initial fire up. We hit the power. Boom. Blew the fuses on the rail. We put in new fuses. Boom blow those too. It was at that point we realized that the spindle was seized in the housing. It was the first of a very long string of terrible design discoveries. Had we been sharp we'd have had the forklift come back and load it onto another truck. After that I had to design and program a new CNC system, then the dressing system went to hell, then the angular slides seized up as there was no oiling, etc. etc. To top it all off the service and parts department is so terrible that I can't even get replacement parts for it. So now we machine them all ourselves, scrape them in, and hope the machine base doesn't crack. Long story, short, if a machine costs 50% less than the cheapest competitor, run. Fast.
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Nov 16, 2016 16:25
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Rotten Cookies posted:I love hearing about someone else's monumental fuckups. Two retired machinists came in today to set up our new (to us) shear and giant bandsaw. Someone tried unloading a big ol' CNC laser cutter by sliding it down a ramp into position. It tumbled. Then they tried flipping it over with a couple forklifts. It was apparently, uh.... unusuable. Lol. Did it break the floor?
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Nov 16, 2016 16:32
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Rotten Cookies posted:I love hearing about someone else's monumental fuckups. Two retired machinists came in today to set up our new (to us) shear and giant bandsaw. Someone tried unloading a big ol' CNC laser cutter by sliding it down a ramp into position. It tumbled. Then they tried flipping it over with a couple forklifts. It was apparently, uh.... unusuable. Everybody who works with big machinery i showed that AvE video to immediately started flop-sweating and unconsciously fiddling with their business cards looking for a rigger, it ruled theres a point in the video where all you can hear is the I-beams he's sliding the thing on groaning from the strain and him stress-panting, its v disconcerting Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Nov 16, 2016 |
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Nov 16, 2016 17:13
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We've got a broken machine that we use to train customers on machine service. The crane they were using to unload it from the truck tipped over since it didn't have enough counterweight. Half a million dollars goes tumbling down. Let's just say there's a reason our customers sign off on the machines before they're unloaded, and are responsible for providing rigging.
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Nov 16, 2016 18:30
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I'm getting a reputation around the office as "that guy who fixes metal" which I'm kind of only half enthusiastic for. Usually because it means getting jobs like this plant stand. I don't mind fixing stuff, but it kind of bothers me that anyone would want to save one of these *made in China by Filipino slave labour abominations that I paid twenty bucks for at the local greenhouse garage sale*. I mean, look at this thing. 3/8 x 1/16(at best) strap iron, shittastical welds, and you can just see the misery of the poor person who assembled it. The top shelf broke because it's a cantilever with absolutely no support, and the paper thin weld bead finally rusted through the paint and snapped off. I ground it down, made a scroll to match the other ones on the other shelves as a support gusset and welded it back together. Guy was happy with it so I guess I did ok, but it feels wrong to prolong this thing's insufferable existence. 
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Nov 30, 2016 23:41
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I mean, did you charge a reasonable fee for your work? Or are you letting your co-workers scam a hundred bucks of labor off of you for free, which makes their desire to fix garbage metal objects more understandable.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:45
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Place I work rented a 70 ton Liebherr boom crane and operators for twelve hours just to unload a centerless grinder off the truck. Also I hope somebody sends AvE a set of toe jacks for christmas those are the greatest thing ever shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 23:58
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Leperflesh posted:I mean, did you charge a reasonable fee for your work? Or are you letting your co-workers scam a hundred bucks of labor off of you for free, which makes their desire to fix garbage metal objects more understandable. I charged him ten bucks for materials and supplies. The half an hour of time it took to fix would have cost triple the original purchase price, I assume. So yes I am because I'm far too generous with my time.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:08
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shame on an IGA posted:Place I work rented a 70 ton Liebherr boom crane and operators for twelve hours just to unload a centerless grinder off the truck. Hello there fellow centerless grinder dude. What kind of machine did you buy? It's rare I run into someone who knows what they are, let alone buys one.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:35
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walking through the parking lot to start my shift and i realize i'm standing in a fuckton of coolant. interesting.
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Dec 1, 2016 01:19
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Yooper posted:Hello there fellow centerless grinder dude. I'm an ex-lathe guy who somehow got turned into a controls electrician, they just put me on this to unwire the control cabinets on the two old rear end Cincinattis that had to move out of the way and osmose as much millwright knowledge as possible from the contractors. New baby is a Mikrosa M400, from what I've seen of the other one they already have it is a 95% uptime through-feeding 24/7 beast.
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Dec 1, 2016 01:34
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shame on an IGA posted:I'm an ex-lathe guy who somehow got turned into a controls electrician, they just put me on this to unwire the control cabinets on the two old rear end Cincinattis that had to move out of the way and osmose as much millwright knowledge as possible from the contractors. New baby is a Mikrosa M400, from what I've seen of the other one they already have it is a 95% uptime through-feeding 24/7 beast. That's one hell of a Swiss machine. The only one nicer would be a custom Junkers. We run a fleet of cinci's that do nothing but infeed. We've never even attempted through-feed. Have fun with it!
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Dec 1, 2016 01:37
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I have an old bench motor with a tapered Jacobs chuck mounted on it. I want to remove the chuck so I can retrofit it to be a buffing machine. What's the best way to remove a tapered chuck. I'm not sure where to find those taper removal wedges.
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Dec 1, 2016 15:44
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| # ? May 23, 2024 08:35 |
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ebay.ca has some for $20 or maybe you could grind down a tuning fork or something
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Dec 1, 2016 18:15
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