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Jerk McJerkface posted:Anyone familiar with those ductless mini-split a/c units? I live in the NJ and I'm looking at my first home, and there's nothing I can afford with central A/C. I found a really nice cute smallish (but right sized) home in an ideal location, but it has gas/steam radiators, and no central. It's about 1000 sq ft, three bedroom. I've been looking up those ductless units you install in all the rooms. I've traveled a lot and I see them all over non-US countries, so I figured they are worth looking at. Mini-splits are incredibly efficient these days and popular elsewhere in the world, however you might want to look into the total cost to add central forced air heating & cooling. It might "only" be double and will likely add that much to the value of the home. As long as you get energy star stuff it will also get you some kind of rebates. Talk to a local heating and cooling person to see what your options are for a typical home. Send them the links on Zillow so they can figure out the construction type. I don't know how hot the summers are in NJ, but a heat pump w/ propane backup might just do it for the heating & cooling.
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Nov 14, 2016 04:40
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Thanks for the tips. It's a 100% bog standard cape cod. Living room, kitchen and two downstairs bedrooms and the upstairs is just one bedroom... There is a full basement too. I figure it wouldn't be hard to install forced air since you'd only need to run one duct upstairs for the master bedroom and the rest is accessible from the basement. Maybe it's an option to install all forced air. I can see the house going for maybe 320k so I could borrow 340k to improve it.
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Nov 14, 2016 05:00
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You could keep the baseboard heat & install an A-coil & air-mover in the attic/upstairs space...duct to ceilig registers; far more efficient to blow your A/C down from above
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Nov 15, 2016 01:23
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PainterofCrap posted:You could keep the baseboard heat & install an A-coil & air-mover in the attic/upstairs space...duct to ceilig registers; far more efficient to blow your A/C down from above It's actually radiators, not baseboard, but yes, that's definitely an option. This is our first house, so I can deal with window units to get out of a rental, and then save for a year or two and then upgrade the HVAC.
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Nov 15, 2016 01:44
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Thanks for the tips. It's a 100% bog standard cape cod. Living room, kitchen and two downstairs bedrooms and the upstairs is just one bedroom... There is a full basement too. I figure it wouldn't be hard to install forced air since you'd only need to run one duct upstairs for the master bedroom and the rest is accessible from the basement. Maybe it's an option to install all forced air. I can see the house going for maybe 320k so I could borrow 340k to improve it. You will definitely get better results and comfort with a multi-head minsplit system, especially if you are looking for something closer to the value end of the spectrum. Getting a properly sized and balanced forced air system in a new build/renovation is hard enough, a retrofit where you don't expect to do major wall work would be harder. The minisplit heads come in a variety of configurations now, including ones that can be hidden and "ducted" a few feet to a room if your concern is aesthetics. You'll also get much better efficiency since the minisplits will get you a zoned house and getting that under 10K with a single air handler is nigh impossible.
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Nov 15, 2016 05:33
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H110Hawk posted:If you replace it, Bosch. ========= Got a situation. Without going into why, I'm trying to stick a piece of plywood to a concrete floor. Something is up and the Tapcon screws won't hold, the concrete just turns to dust and the screws pull out. So I decided to drill bigger holes and use plastic sleeves in the concrete but I can't drill deep enough, I get down about an 3/4" and the drill won't go. I hit rebar several times and burned up the bit on the last one. I doubt concrete nails are going to hold if the screws didn't. I don't have one of those cartridge nailers. Tomorrow I'm going to buy another bit and try again but how well will construction adhesive stick as a backup to whatever screws I can get in there?
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Nov 15, 2016 08:49
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wormil posted:Got a situation. Without going into why, I'm trying to stick a piece of plywood to a concrete floor. Something is up and the Tapcon screws won't hold, the concrete just turns to dust and the screws pull out. So I decided to drill bigger holes and use plastic sleeves in the concrete but I can't drill deep enough, I get down about an 3/4" and the drill won't go. I hit rebar several times and burned up the bit on the last one. I doubt concrete nails are going to hold if the screws didn't. I don't have one of those cartridge nailers. Tomorrow I'm going to buy another bit and try again but how well will construction adhesive stick as a backup to whatever screws I can get in there? Are you using a hammer drill? If not, that's why this is happening. If the concrete is just too crusty for tapcons then get bolts and concrete anchoring epoxy. Also, it's entirely possible that the reason this is happening is because the plywood is trying to tell you how bad of an idea this is (it's going to rot in no time).
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Nov 15, 2016 16:35
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We have a gigantic heavy mirror we had hanging in our hold home that was drywall. We moved into an older home with plaster walls and want to hang the mirror but I have been hesitant because I don't want it crashing down... What kind of screws / anchors should I buy?
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Nov 15, 2016 16:58
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fyallm posted:We have a gigantic heavy mirror we had hanging in our hold home that was drywall. We moved into an older home with plaster walls and want to hang the mirror but I have been hesitant because I don't want it crashing down... What kind of screws / anchors should I buy? Find the studs and screw into them.
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Nov 15, 2016 17:05
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Gounads posted:Find the studs and screw into them. This, but also be aware that lots of stud finders are nearly useless with lath and plaster walls.
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Nov 15, 2016 17:10
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Does anyone know what kind of cable this is, or what its likely use was? The lovely phone pic doesn't help much, sorry. 
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Nov 15, 2016 17:27
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Look like low volt sprinkler control wire, but it's tough to see. Don't know why it would be coming out of a sweep unless that's the location of the controller or maybe a rain sensor.
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Nov 15, 2016 17:48
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Yeah, I was looking out for a communication cable of some sort, but this was probably connected to some kind of control system for something like that, as you say. That was what the other person I asked guessed, too. Thanks.
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Nov 15, 2016 18:01
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Ok, so my kitchen faucet is loose. I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56-f9UI1Zsw I went to inspect the handle to see what the screw head looks like, and the handle came off completely. There is no screw inside the handle. I can't even find broken pieces of an old screw. So how do I go about finding the correct size of replacement screw? No idea on the brand or model of the faucet.
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Nov 15, 2016 18:28
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Motronic posted:Are you using a hammer drill? If not, that's why this is happening. [edit: Yes, hammer drill.] Unfortunately bolts won't work in this situation. And let me worry about whether it's a good idea. wormil fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 15, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 18:32
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DaChurl posted:Ok, so my kitchen faucet is loose. I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56-f9UI1Zsw I went to inspect the handle to see what the screw head looks like, and the handle came off completely. There is no screw inside the handle. I can't even find broken pieces of an old screw. You take the handle to the hardware store and find a set screw that fits those threads. Start with longer screws with heads on them, they're easier to work with just your hands. Find one that fits, look up its threading (probably #6-32 or #4-40), then find a set screw in that same threading that is long enough to completely fill the threaded portion of the handle yet doesn't poke through the handle surface. Keep in mind that the faucet stem will be filling that hole in center of the handle. edit: since you're at the hardware store, pick up the tool to tighten in your new set screw if you don't have one. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 15, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 19:32
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Gounads posted:Find the studs and screw into them. Is there a special screw / screw length I should use? How thick is plaster? And if stud finders are mostly useless on plaster, is there a sure way to figure out where the studs are?
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Nov 15, 2016 19:41
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fyallm posted:Is there a special screw / screw length I should use? How thick is plaster? And if stud finders are mostly useless on plaster, is there a sure way to figure out where the studs are? Just use something that will hold the weight of whatever you're hanging. Plaster is a paste applied by hand so its thickness of varies, but it's typically around a half inch thick. The real exception is if you have rock lath. Plaster and rock lath walls can be an inch thick. Stud finders can work on plaster, but it can take a couple tries to find a stud. There are other ways to find studs though. Do you have any electric boxes on that wall? Those boxes are nailed into studs, and studs have regular spacing: usually 16" but sometimes 24". Take the faceplate off, stick something thin and nonconductive like a popsicle stick in the gap between the box and plaster and feel for a stud. Once you've found one, you can measure to find its neighbors. Edit: for this method, you might want to peek in the box and see on which side the power cables enter the box, so you don't accidentally feel them on the outside of that box and get fooled. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Nov 15, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 19:49
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Worse comes to worse, you can make some small exploratory holes with a longer finish nail. If it goes sailing past 1/2 - 3/4 inch, then you missed the stud. Small holes are easily filled.
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Nov 15, 2016 19:59
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If a home is old enough to have plaster, isn't it also old enough that they just put studs wherever their hearts whispered to them? Anyway, enjoy, it's hell. You don't by chance have a picture rail, do you?
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Nov 15, 2016 20:27
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:If a home is old enough to have plaster, isn't it also old enough that they just put studs wherever their hearts whispered to them?
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Nov 15, 2016 20:35
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kid sinister posted:You take the handle to the hardware store and find a set screw that fits those threads. Start with longer screws with heads on them, they're easier to work with just your hands. Find one that fits, look up its threading (probably #6-32 or #4-40), then find a set screw in that same threading that is long enough to completely fill the threaded portion of the handle yet doesn't poke through the handle surface. Keep in mind that the faucet stem will be filling that hole in center of the handle. Thank you!
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Nov 15, 2016 21:22
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Anne Whateley posted:If a home is old enough to have plaster, isn't it also old enough that they just put studs wherever their hearts whispered to them? House was built in 1940 and in the boonies so I would imagine the 'codes' were loosely adhered too.. I am not sure what a picture rail is so I would doubt we have that.
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Nov 16, 2016 00:47
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fyallm posted:House was built in 1940 and in the boonies so I would imagine the 'codes' were loosely adhered too.. Essentially a board nailed parallel to the ceiling and across several studs, so you can eliminate the guesswork. Mine's all plaster as well; been here since 1992. It ain't that bad. Kid Sinister has the right approach...check receptacles, switch housings, and measure off in sixteen-inch increments. Another trick is to shine a light on the bias along the wall in the area that you want to hang; you may find a number of prior patches from previously-hung items running up the wall. Last case: take a tiny drill bit & start drilling across the wall in the area you suspect has a stud...especially if you are expecting to paint. Small holes spackle up very easily.
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Nov 16, 2016 01:50
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Because I've always been curious and can't think of a better place to ask: how are automatic-flush toilets in public restrooms powered? A simple battery that gets changed periodically? Wires hidden through the pipes? Some clever system that generates electricity through flowing water? I've spent a lot of time pissing and wondering.
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Nov 16, 2016 02:50
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PainterofCrap posted:Essentially a board nailed parallel to the ceiling and across several studs, so you can eliminate the guesswork.
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Nov 16, 2016 03:22
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eddiewalker posted:Because I've always been curious and can't think of a better place to ask: how are automatic-flush toilets in public restrooms powered? Automatic flushometers (and faucets and soap dispensers) come in both battery and hardwired versions. Batteries usually for retrofits and hardwire when you plan it ahead.
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Nov 16, 2016 04:02
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There's few things more terrible than going to wash your hands and realizing that the battery that drives the water or the soap dispenser has died 
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Nov 16, 2016 04:03
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Re: Plywood over concrete floor--could you put a plastic sheet between to work as a vapor barrier?kid sinister posted:Do you have any electric boxes on that wall? Those boxes are nailed into studs, and studs have regular spacing: usually 16" but sometimes 24".  Magnetic stud finders also work great on plaster and lathe, because the lathe is nailed into the studs. eddiewalker posted:Because I've always been curious and can't think of a better place to ask: how are automatic-flush toilets in public restrooms powered? Long story, but awhile back some of my buddies and I got really drunk downtown and for some reason or other one of them found/acquired an automatic flushing head from some toilet and brought it back to the hotel room. Best part was the next morning when the found it next to the bed and picked it up all confused, which motion triggered the flush and dumped all the remaining water from the head into the bed. ... So, yup, batteries.
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Nov 16, 2016 13:31
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Anyone know how spray lacquer and acrylic paint typically interact with each other? I'm planning on stenciling a design on top of a wooden box. I have a stencil brush, a bottle of acrylic paint of the matte kind, specifically this stuff, and a can of spray lacquer. Sadly I don't have the spray lacquer around so I can't check if it's water-based or oil-based. I was going to stain the wooden box, then sand it, apply the stencil with the brush and spray the whole thing with lacquer once it's dry. But I've read that the lacquer could dissolve the acrylic paint. Is there any way to know if that will happen without testing it out? If that doesn't work out, what options do I have? Do I paint on top of the lacquer? Would it just be easier to use a different finish on top of the acrylic paint? Any help is appreciated
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Nov 16, 2016 18:08
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I skimmed the titles in here, I guess there's no amateur rocketry thread? Kinda surprising. Anyway, guess I'll ask here. I'm building a high-power rocket, with custom laser-cut acrylic fins. Had it most of the way together, then some jackass working at the same bench (I use the campus maker-space type lab) shoved their poo poo to one side and knocked my rocket on the ground, snapping off the fin. It would be a pain in the rear end to try and dremel out the old fin tab and clean the inner tube up to glue the new one on, so I'm considering fixing it. My plan is to epoxy the broken fin back on (it broke cleanly into 2 pieces), then reinforce all three fins with fiberglass. Does this sound like a terrible idea? I'm not going anywhere close to mach 1, so aero heating won't be much of an issue.
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Nov 16, 2016 19:35
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Enourmo posted:I skimmed the titles in here, I guess there's no amateur rocketry thread? Kinda surprising. Anyway, guess I'll ask here. I'd go for an acrylic cement. It's essentially just a solvent that melts the acrylic a bit so you can 'weld' them back together. I'm guessing the strength is pretty darned close to the acrylic when you're done.
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Nov 16, 2016 19:48
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Minorkos posted:Anyone know how spray lacquer and acrylic paint typically interact with each other? It might wrinkle or affect the acrylic in some way, but you never really know until you try. To minimize it go real easy on the first coats literally dusting it on. That should let you build up a layer to seal it in with out affecting it. You can also use a layer of spray on shellac as a barrier coat things tend to not inteact with the shellac as much as solvents in lacquers. Or just use shellac as the top coat.
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Nov 16, 2016 19:48
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Gounads posted:I'd go for an acrylic cement. It's essentially just a solvent that melts the acrylic a bit so you can 'weld' them back together. I'm guessing the strength is pretty darned close to the acrylic when you're done. Now you mention it I think my club might have some of that laying around, I've heard it mentioned. I'll still probably go for the fiberglass, though; if it broke from a four-foot drop (about 8 mph by my napkin math), I question its strength landing nearly twice that speed under parachute. Sure, hard tile vs soft grass field, but better safe than sorry; this is for a certification attempt that requires the rocket be in reflyable condition after recovery, so I don't want one snapping in the field.
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Nov 16, 2016 20:00
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Need a sanity check here. Buying a "36 inch" french door fridge for a space that measures EXACTLY 36'', terrible idea or best idea to make the most of the space? The actual width measurement of the fridge is 35.63'', it'll be tight but it seems to me like it should be fine, anything I might not be thinking about though that would make this end in tears? I imagine installation could be a pain but manageable
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Nov 17, 2016 21:31
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Elem7 posted:Need a sanity check here. As long as the door hinges are made so the doors open flush with the fridge walls (ie the doors won't hit the opening), it should be fine. Which is only an issue it it's fully recessed; if the front of the fridge sticks out a bit, even that's a non-issue.
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Nov 17, 2016 21:50
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Elem7 posted:Need a sanity check here. Any decent appliance place will be able to help you with this (and most good local appliance places I've dealt with are cheaper than the big box stores FYI). If you can't get that kind of help shop elsewhere or: It's 50/50 whether this will work or not without seeing the place you're trying to install it to tip the scales either way. Figure out your actual clearances (not just how big across the hole happens to be) and go see the thing. What's going to matter most is how the doors are hinged and if they will clear whatever is on either side so you can open the doors fully when it's pushed back far enough to look right/not be in the way.
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Nov 17, 2016 21:52
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Thanks guys, it won't even be close to flush with the cabinet space and according to the specs there's plenty of room to open the doors 90 degrees, it's really only the exacting width I was worried about. Depth is maybe an issue but it's an ascetic one.
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Nov 17, 2016 21:59
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Any concrete experts around? My basement has an old, uneven floor. I'd like to make some flat platforms around the walls for my workbench and power tools (the largest one would be about 3x6'), most would be 2x6 ish.) If I build a wood frame scribed to the floor and pour some concrete, will it bond to the existing floor? Do I need to break up the existing floor first? The floor looks like cement, and it has a number of areas where bedrock, or rubble from the wall/foundation pokes through. The house is about 110 years old, though I think the cement floor is much newer.
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Nov 20, 2016 17:38
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jailbait#3 posted:Any concrete experts around? My basement has an old, uneven floor. I'd like to make some flat platforms around the walls for my workbench and power tools (the largest one would be about 3x6'), most would be 2x6 ish.) No need to break up the existing floor. Just clean it and put some of this down: https://www.quikrete.com/productlines/concretebondingadhesive.asp What you're suggesting is pretty common in older homes to make pads for oil tanks, heaters, etc.
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Nov 20, 2016 17:54
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