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Jan posted:Yeah, since my post, I spent a little while catching up on SSD developments and the 960 EVO seems like it'll be a better value -- provided it's as good as 850, which is my plan B if not. The 850 might not be NVMe but meh. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#W=500,650&p=1&e=6,5,4 I see an RMx right near the top of the list.
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Nov 18, 2016 04:12
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Khablam posted:If 1.95v is your DRAM voltage that is very aggressively volted for DDR4-3000. 1.35v is where you want to be. Yea I don't know what that reading was about, i restarted and it's now down at 1.32 and I did the prime 95 test that says it does some memory stuff and it stayed under 1.32 Seems to be all set now
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Nov 18, 2016 04:54
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Yea I don't know what that reading was about, i restarted and it's now down at 1.32 and I did the prime 95 test that says it does some memory stuff and it stayed under 1.32 Did you update the BIOS to the most current release? If not, be sure to write down exactly what you changed before updating.
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Nov 18, 2016 05:10
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Wondering if anyone here would have any suggestions for cheap, decent monitors that have the following: Display Port, 144hz, matte black coloring
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Nov 18, 2016 07:15
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LODGE NORTH posted:Wondering if anyone here would have any suggestions for cheap, decent monitors that have the following: Price range and/or desire for G-Sync?
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Nov 18, 2016 07:22
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Price range and/or desire for G-Sync? $250 ish, not that important.
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Nov 18, 2016 07:33
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LODGE NORTH posted:$250 ish, not that important. https://www.amazon.com/VG248QE-1920x1080-144Hz-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B00B2HH7G0 NOTE: This is just a high-refresh screen, it doesn't even have FreeSync. nVidia sold a "G-Sync upgrade kit" for this monitor that cost an eye-watering $200. This monitor was also released in 2013. Keep in mind you're not getting anything other than a TN panel at the ~$250 price range if you want ultra-high-refresh. The cheapest you're going to get with G-Sync will be the Dell S2716DG, which is a 1440p TN panel that Dell occasionally sees fit to put on sale for $399. 1080p G-Sync is all but extinct, as the only people left selling them are second-tier resellers who are charging out the rear end for them because ~E-SPORTS~ (turns out it's easier to get 144fps consistently out of 1080p than 1440p, who knew). ----- Also, while I'm here - people were saying 6GB 1060s for ~$200 were rare leading into Black Friday? Here ya go: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1264797-REG/msi_geforce_gtx_1060_gaming.html (tax in NY) BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:22 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 11:06
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Did you update the BIOS to the most current release? Yea bios is updated to a version that was released last week
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Nov 18, 2016 13:43
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Is there any real difference, performance or otherwise, between the M.2 and SATA versions of Samsung 850 SSD's?
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Nov 18, 2016 14:04
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Boz0r posted:Is there any real difference, performance or otherwise, between the M.2 and SATA versions of Samsung 850 SSD's? Nope, except you'll need an mSATA to 2.5" adapter to grandfather it to any future builds.
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Nov 18, 2016 14:07
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anyone see any good 1060 6gb deals for the UK?
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Nov 18, 2016 14:20
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LODGE NORTH posted:$250 ish, not that important. I'll second the Asus VG248QE recommendation. It is a good monitor that is below $250 and has 144hz. It's 1080p with a 1ms response time and has DisplayPort. I picked one up at best buy about 2 weeks ago for about $220.
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Nov 18, 2016 14:49
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I noticed an issue this morning where my display goes black for a second or two and then comes back. I don't know if it's the video drivers, video card, or the amazon hdmi cable. Everything was running fine for two days. The black out is very short and it's similar to when you flip screen resolution. Any ideas? I'm gonna try swapping the hdmi cord first. edit: I have a hunch it is GraphicsCardEngine (32bit) running in my task manager. I think that's the driver for the integrated graphics on the mobo interfering with the new GPU. Housh fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 16:04
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Housh posted:I noticed an issue this morning where my display goes black for a second or two and then comes back. I don't know if it's the video drivers, video card, or the amazon hdmi cable. Everything was running fine for two days. I had this happen on one of my work monitors when the HDMI-DVI adapter I was using was just slightly loose. Check your connections, if it's a software thing then it may well be showing up in the Windows event viewer.
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Nov 18, 2016 17:21
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It seems to be fine after I uninstalled all the gigabyte software that came with my mobo. I think the integrated video driver was conflicting with the new nvidia gpu drivers.
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Nov 18, 2016 17:34
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CPU cooler died on my Ivy Bridge (LGA1155). Looking for one, preferably with same-day Amazon delivery and found this: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Singl...6%3A10155283011 Seems like it would be pretty decent. Anyone have any experience with it?
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Nov 18, 2016 17:56
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I'm sure it will work, but with 6 heatpipes and the size it really looks like it's intended for an LGA2011 or one of the high-wattage AM3 procs and would be overkill on a 95W proc, even with a reasonable overclock. You would be fine with something a lot cheaper like a Hyper 212.
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Nov 18, 2016 17:59
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Eletriarnation posted:I'm sure it will work, but with 6 heatpipes and the size it really looks like it's intended for an LGA2011 or one of the high-wattage AM3 procs and would be overkill on a 95W proc, even with a reasonable overclock. You would be fine with something a lot cheaper like a Hyper 212. At half the price, I'll deal with it taking a couple extra days delivery. Sold. Thank you!
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Nov 18, 2016 18:11
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I was just about to pull the trigger on an Asus Max VIII Hero Alpha, butter over at Newegg it has a bunch of poo poo type reviews, albeit from people that think a one line review rife with misspelling is helpful, but can someone briefly discuss why one of these ROG boards is better than say an ASrock? Are the quality of life features that much better?
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Nov 18, 2016 18:57
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osker posted:I was just about to pull the trigger on an Asus Max VIII Hero Alpha, butter over at Newegg it has a bunch of poo poo type reviews, albeit from people that think a one line review rife with misspelling is helpful, but can someone briefly discuss why one of these ROG boards is better than say an ASrock? Are the quality of life features that much better? MoBo reviews are just like that. You don't think about it when it works. If you don't know why you'd need a feature, odds are you don't.
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Nov 18, 2016 20:01
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repiv posted:IIRC Bluetooth 4.0/4.1/4.2 all use the same hardware, the later versions just add more features to the software side that's handled by Windows. Perhaps Wikipedia is wrong, but it says that some features will require new hardware.
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Nov 18, 2016 20:31
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Got my Newegg order in and processor + Mobo reserved at Microcenter, but I'm thinking of optioning over to an i5-6600k when I go pick them up, except a 212 Evo won't fit in the case I ordered (Fractal Design Core 1100) and I'm afraid an h7 might not arrive in time to test everything, what with the holiday and all. So, either: What's the next most popular cooler that'll fit in an mATX case? Or What's a cheap, small, good looking case that fits the 212?
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Nov 18, 2016 20:50
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ItBreathes posted:Got my Newegg order in and processor + Mobo reserved at Microcenter, but I'm thinking of optioning over to an i5-6600k when I go pick them up, except a 212 Evo won't fit in the case I ordered (Fractal Design Core 1100) and I'm afraid an h7 might not arrive in time to test everything, what with the holiday and all. I like the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX, though I haven't had it in my hands. It is a front runner for me using the same setup. The case has 200mm of space for the CPU cooler, the Evo 212 is 159mm.
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Nov 18, 2016 20:53
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Building a dedicated streaming-PC (As in, I will be encoding/streaming from it, while doing my stuff on my existing machine). Looking for input on this build, as there's conflicting info everywhere about what you really need for a machine that will be used for nothing except encoding/streaming: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/FTGx2R
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Nov 18, 2016 21:08
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Real-time encoding of a few mbits or so is not very intensive at all, I comfortably get 5-10x h.264 encoding for 1080p sources on a 6700k before OC, unless I go crazy with the profile settings. Swap that RAM for DDR4 though. Khablam fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 00:12
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I haven't really used NCIX in a while -- certainly not around Black Friday. It so happens that they drastically reduced price of the CPU, motherboard and power supply I was looking at in what I think is their "surprise special". How spurious are these? Am I likely to find a better deal by Black Friday? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($409.99 @ NCIX) Motherboard: MSI Z170A XPOWER GAMING TITANIUM EDITION ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($349.99 @ NCIX - $30 mail-in) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.98 @ NCIX - $20 mail-in) E: vvvvvv Yep, our Black Friday is a pale imitation of the real thing. No stampedes, just orderly Canadians politely apologizing under their breath for getting cut off in line. 
Jan fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 05:49
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Jan posted:I haven't really used NCIX in a while -- certainly not around Black Friday. It so happens that they drastically reduced price of the CPU, motherboard and power supply I was looking at in what I think is their "surprise special". How spurious are these? Am I likely to find a better deal by Black Friday? The first question to ask is "do you live within three hours roundtrip of a Micro Center?" Oh wait, Canada. Never mind.
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Nov 19, 2016 06:14
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Bought things at Micro Center last night. Got an open box Asus Z170-AR complete - still in static wrap, all bits present, everything looked good - for $120. They seemed to think I'd still be able to claim the mail in rebate for another $25. They gave me $30 off for bundling with their $180 6600k. Good time to buy, I suppose.
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Nov 19, 2016 16:25
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Crucial MX300 525GB SATA 2.5 Inch Internal Solid State Drive Any idea how the above compares with an 850 evo? I was going to grab an 850 but it looks like the price jumped up a bit on them (at least on amazon). The price on this seems pretty good but I didn't see any good comparisons.
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Nov 19, 2016 17:00
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Combination Peeta posted:Crucial MX300 525GB SATA 2.5 Inch Internal Solid State Drive http://www.storagereview.com/crucial_mx300_ssd_review If you're quick on the draw, 1TB 850 EVOs will be $250 at Newegg on BF. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 21:16
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Hi everyone. I am posting this because I am not sure where else to ask, and I am certainly not what you would call 'part smart' - one video card to another, different types of RAM, it all kinda baffles me to a degree. The thing is that I found out a few years ago I could lease a computer so I signed on to get myself an Alienware X51. Back then, it was a really good machine in terms of running which games I wanted and the like. It still runs awesome to this day and I really have no solid complaints about it except now the video card is out of date with newer games. Being a smaller case, the card is a mini version. This makes it a little hard to upgrade in terms of my options but I don't have a ton of cash for a whole new rig. The idea is floating around that I can transfer the entire motherboard into a new larger case, but I am not sure how viable that would be. So I guess my question is this: Is that something I can do safely? Will it work? And exactly what video card should I be looking for? Some details: - I game. I play pretty much anything but shooters are my general choice. I want to be able to run DooM 2016 and Dishonored 2. - Budget is not large: 400 max. - I live in Canada, if that matters at all, and my province does not have a ton of options in terms of stores: Best Buy, Walmart, a few mom and pop stores. That being said, I would probably just order online. - I want to be able to run these games in an enjoyable fashion, I don't need Ultra graphics (though that would be delightful) but I just wanna be able to run it and enjoy it while playing it in terms of graphics - no stuttering, tearing, etc. - I attempted to run DooM 2016 and it blue screens on me or just hangs in blackness. Specs: Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3770 CPU @ 3.40GHz Manufacturer Intel Speed 3.4 GHz Number of Cores 4 RAM 8.0 GB Video Card 1: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 Manufacturer Intel Chipset Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 Dedicated Memory 64 MB Total Memory 1.7 GB Pixel Shader Version 5.0 Vertex Shader Version 5.0 Video Card 2: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Dedicated Memory 2.0 GB Total Memory 3.9 GB Pixel Shader Version 5.0 Vertex Shader Version 5.0 I can provide further info if needed. What are my options here?
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Nov 19, 2016 21:56
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eternalbuffalo posted:What are my options here? Assuming that's a non-overclockable 3770, go with a 6GB 1060.
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Nov 19, 2016 22:10
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Okay So i'm back with an updated list based on your guys' recommendations. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($190.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI B150 PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($39.95 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($139.99 @ B&H) Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($37.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $543.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-19 18:47 EST-0500 How does it look now? Also a few more questions: I've only ever heard of newegg and amazon for pc parts. Are these other retailers trustworthy? PC Partpicker estimates the wattage at 215. Will my power supply be alright? I've no plans for overclocking or anything fancy except adding my old HDD and in the future, an SSD. Do I need an aftermarket cooler or more fans? Thank you guys for your help.
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Nov 20, 2016 00:56
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eternalbuffalo posted:- I game. I play pretty much anything but shooters are my general choice. I want to be able to run DooM 2016 and Dishonored 2. You might want to diagnose this before you go further. It really should not do that. Doom 2016 works on your existing setup, albeit not at wonderful settings - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31Q_c9fkTnY. This is usually temperature related on those desktops, they are not well cooled. Those alienwares are m-ITX boards, so any case that will house a m-ITX board will work. The PSU is custom so you'll need a new one. When you're moving it be sure to properly clean and re-paste the CPU cooler.
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Nov 20, 2016 00:59
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What monitors are you guys rolling with? I'm falling in love with my system and I think it needs a proper monitor. I'm going to be on the look out this BF for deals.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:00
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Housh posted:What monitors are you guys rolling with? I'm falling in love with my system and I think it needs a proper monitor. I'm going to be on the look out this BF for deals. Pretty much any proper 1080/1200/1440p IPS display will be an upgrade over a 'common' LCD. It entirely depends on what you're looking for - your options are pretty wide-ranging in the "I just want a monitor capable of 'wow' image display," but narrow considerably once you start saying "I want something ideal for fast-paced gaming." The monitor thread would be better at answering your question than I or pretty much anyone in here could.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:07
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I didn't even think about case cooling. The case I have has two 120mm exhaust fans (besides the fans attached to the PSU and CPU cooler, of course.) There are places for intakes but maybe just the exhaust will create enough airflow? I doubt there's any way it'll get hot enough to cause damage, so I guess I could just run something demanding and keep an eye on temperature. But I'm always curious about goon thoughts.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:09
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Boxman posted:I didn't even think about case cooling. The case I have has two 120mm exhaust fans (besides the fans attached to the PSU and CPU cooler, of course.) There are places for intakes but maybe just the exhaust will create enough airflow? You generally want to encourage flow-through, because *just* exhaust means you can develop 'hot spots' within the case where hot air can matriculate and 'stall' before it can be whisked out. If anything, I'm contemplating reversing a few fans in my Air 540 because at present I've got 4x140 blowing *inward*, and only one 140mm actively exhausting air. It might be better were I to reverse the two side 140s to blow outward.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:12
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Boxman posted:I didn't even think about case cooling. The case I have has two 120mm exhaust fans (besides the fans attached to the PSU and CPU cooler, of course.) There are places for intakes but maybe just the exhaust will create enough airflow? In general it's good to try to create positive pressure. That means more intakes than exhausts. This way you'll always have fresh air and in theory you'll have less dust in the case.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:13
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BIG HEADLINE posted:You generally want to encourage flow-through, because *just* exhaust means you can develop 'hot spots' within the case where hot air can matriculate and 'stall' before it can be whisked out. If anything, I'm contemplating reversing a few fans in my Air 540 because at present I've got 4x140 blowing *inward*, and only one 140mm actively exhausting air. It might be better were I to reverse the two side 140s to blow outward. Once you have at least one fan coming in, and at least one fan going out, any other fans offer extreme diminishing returns on performance against noise. Or even just performance. Your config is probably on-par for cooling and great vis-a-vis positive pressure.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:26
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