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kastein posted:IFSJA Holy poo poo, I havent been on there since...2001? '02? Somehow my login still works.
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Sep 29, 2016 17:33
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:43 |
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Dagen H posted:Holy poo poo, I havent been on there since...2001? '02? Somehow my login still works. Mine loving doesn't yet because those slacker admins haven't gotten around to approving me 
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Sep 29, 2016 17:36
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HEY WANT AN LQ4
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Sep 29, 2016 19:17
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Adiabatic posted:HEY WANT AN LQ4 This can't go wrong.
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Sep 29, 2016 22:56
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It's real far away, and probably more than $300, so I'll probably end up waiting a long time for one to show up at a local junkyard. And by local I mean I know where there is one right now but someone stripped the whole intake setup off it so I'll wait for another. I am patient and the truck's already been rotting into a yard for 3 years, it can rot into this one for a bit longer.
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Sep 29, 2016 23:00
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Adiabatic posted:HEY WANT AN LQ4 YOU HAVE A PERFECTLY GOOD BMW RIGHT THERE TO SLAP IT INTO. OR THE LITTLE MISS'S SNEEP.
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Sep 30, 2016 01:54
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I can grab it end of next month and you can pick it up from Philadelphia area instead of Virginia.
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Sep 30, 2016 03:03
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Cop Porn Popper posted:YOU HAVE A PERFECTLY GOOD BMW RIGHT THERE TO SLAP IT INTO. OR THE LITTLE MISS'S SNEEP. gently caress that. I already have 1.5 money pits.
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Sep 30, 2016 05:34
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Also, from the look of things, LS-swapping a WJ is a pain in the dick. Looked into it for... academic reasons. In case the 4.7 ever dies like 4.7s do. Yeah, that's the ticket.
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Sep 30, 2016 07:05
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Yeah, you've got a proprietary data bus no one really knows much about (except for guys who charge 4+ figures to build or do anything), a BCM, and an instrument panel and overhead computer that both want to hear things from the ECU via it. Even not counting the engine mounts, trans adapter, etc, just the wiring and databus concerns alone on a Vortec WJ build are going to be miserable unless you gut its electrical system and replace it with aftermarket gauges or something. I was going to try turning over the J10's engine this morning but it turns out V8s have this weird loving setup with a deep harmonic balancer and a fan right next to it on the water pump pulley that I'm entirely not used to (being a modern EFI H4/I6/I3 guy) and I didn't feel like screwing with it that much. I'll have to give it a shot when I get home...
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Sep 30, 2016 16:44
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The red forester's carcass is completely gone now, all that remains is its drivetrain. Also I resuscitated the 60s snowblower I bought for ten bucks, still needs a carb rebuild to start nicely but it runs moves and spins the impeller so gently caress it good enough for now. Only needed new points, coil, and plug. Might try dicking with the J10 tomorrow, I want it to at least drive down into the yard so it isn't taking up a parking space.
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Nov 4, 2016 23:50
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kastein posted:Yeah, you've got a proprietary data bus no one really knows much about (except for guys who charge 4+ figures to build or do anything), a BCM, and an instrument panel and overhead computer that both want to hear things from the ECU via it. Even not counting the engine mounts, trans adapter, etc, just the wiring and databus concerns alone on a Vortec WJ build are going to be miserable unless you gut its electrical system and replace it with aftermarket gauges or something. I was just thinking mechanically, it's not a minor bit of welding and banging. WJ engine bay is just a funny shape I guess. Wonder if a LFX would fit, even down two cylinders it'd be up 40hp 
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Nov 5, 2016 00:15
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kastein posted:ALSO WHO WANTS TO BUY A 1980 DATSUN 720 5SPD RWD TRUCK I want to buy this truck. I'm not a super cool AI guy but I used to own a 5sp Comanche. I lurk like a champ and can give it a good home in a giant carport and do suburban truck stuff with it. I'm in northern RI, email is username@gmail if you are interested.
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Nov 6, 2016 22:16
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I'd love that! I have 30+ pictures of it now, have simply forgotten to post them. I am in south central mass maybe an hour from Providence. Will post pics tomorrow, or just email them to you. Also, so far, sister found the previous registration but not the title. Still looking for that. I think it could be registered in RI with just a BoS+registration but I'd rather you get all the paperwork just in case.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:08
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kastein posted:Alright, I have pictures now, only a few months later! Also I just messed around with the J10 a bit - battery lugs were garbage, and the cable from the solenoid to the starter was missing. Once that was hack fixed temporarily I determined that the starter goes CLUNK and does nothing else. Further inspection with a breaker bar and socket told me that the motor is in fact completely seized. Yep, it needs an LQ4, an NV4500, a BW4401 (because I have it and it fits the NV4500 I have), and a set of E350+F350 axles, I'm not putting work into a seized amc 360 with an unknown fuel supply issue on its TBI swap that wasn't done by me.
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Nov 19, 2016 21:38
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There might be a GM motor in VA...
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Nov 20, 2016 03:46
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sharkytm posted:There might be a GM motor in VA... Wes's friend Jeff still has it in his garage, yep.
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Nov 20, 2016 09:32
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Already asked. Way too much money, I am a yard scrounging cheapass. I am waiting for my chance to hit the yard for an unmolested 6.0 for 200-250 bucks or so, less if I get lucky and it is a 50% off weekend. Hell, my favorite yard will have row52 support by tomorrow I've been told, I will be putting together a list of instant search hit notifications and going there the second I hear they have one for me. (I'm the first person they told... I heard Friday morning. Being a frequent flier has its perks.) All I did today and yesterday was finish dismembering the drivetrain from the red forester and drag a few chunks of it down to the house. I need to get that motor under wraps for winter. Also swapped the snows onto the roadmaster.
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Nov 20, 2016 22:03
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Isn't it always fun when you fix something on your car and it doesn't solve anything? Oh well, took less than an hour. Swapped the manifold, catcon, and both O2 sensors (all as a unit, I am lazy) from the old red forester onto the new silver one. Bogging and misfiring at mid to high throttle is still there, but not as bad now. The only thing it really solved was the exhaust leak noise and the heatshields sounding like a pack of raccoons having an orgy in a bin full of tin cans. Place your bets, is the actual cause the coilpack, plug wires, plugs, or something else? I tried another coilpack months ago but who knows, it may have been half bad.
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Nov 23, 2016 05:47
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Weird thing to ask, especially to a guy with an extensive knowledge of late 80's-90's ChryCo products, but have you checked your TPS sensor?
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Nov 23, 2016 05:53
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That is a good point, and I haven't. I may just slam my known good spare off another motor on it. They have always gotten a dead spot on me previously (I killed two junkyard ones in 65k miles on the red forester) but the symptoms could line up I guess. I normally oppose parts shotgunning as a diagnosis method but I have like nearly two cars worth of spare EFI parts so gently caress it, prime the shotgun.
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Nov 23, 2016 05:56
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kastein posted:That is a good point, and I haven't. I may just slam my known good spare off another motor on it. They have always gotten a dead spot on me previously (I killed two junkyard ones in 65k miles on the red forester) but the symptoms could line up I guess. If it works, lemme know, I always like to hear if my mental troubleshooting lines up with real life. Speaking of, if you hear the Justy front end clunking from one side or the other at speed, don't suspect balljoints, or bushings, or CV axles; first check your hubs and make sure the "conical-spring" gripping the CV to the hub is doing it's job by way of the CV-axle nut staying in place. The PO on mine had a problem of some kind and proudly mentioned "I just replaced the half-shaft!" I developed a clunking/clicking and I went nuts trying to find the source until pretty much everything shat the bed at once at a stop sign 1/4 mile from home. Thankfully, I eventually threw it in 4WD and limped it home. I preemptively bought a CV axle thinking the splines had sheared off or that one of the CV joints had thrown it's balls, and then days after ordering the axle, when I took it apart, I realized that when he sold it to me, the PO had replaced the axle, and ignored the maybe 50/1000" splines the hub had. The hub intererior looks like a cylindrical mirror, while the CV axle shows minimal wear. I'm replacing the hub and possibly the axle this weekend, after finding everything I ever needed in Subaru's beautiful illustrated parts breakdown site. spookykid fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 06:20
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kastein posted:
Maybe when you put those coil packs in they were ok. But then over time it went bad or the connector came loose.
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Nov 23, 2016 06:26
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Grab a Knock sensor next time you go to the Recycling yard.
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Nov 24, 2016 03:44
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Justy frontend - isn't that a fucky stupid design? I noticed that when pulling spare hub flanges before the drive from Colorado because everyone says they strip the splines out, I'm guessing when some idiot fucks it up like your PO did. Coilpack - I doubt it, I am very careful to make sure the clips latch securely and there was no sign of damage or looseness on the wires. The replacement coilpack came off a manifold I pulled from the knocky motor I put in the red forester this spring, so it is known good. It didn't fix the issue at all (it was a totally wasted #2 plug wire) so I suspect the original is fine too. Gonna swap that first since it is easy and fast even though I think it isn't the problem. I really suspect plugs, since it does have 231k on it and I have no idea when they were last changed. Knock sensors are annoying to get at but I do have a spare I could try.
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Nov 24, 2016 05:30
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kastein posted:Justy frontend - isn't that a fucky stupid design? I noticed that when pulling spare hub flanges before the drive from Colorado because everyone says they strip the splines out, I'm guessing when some idiot fucks it up like your PO did. The other thing to try is to knock out the CATS on the first exhaust manifold and put them back on. Other ideas: Swap TPS Swap ECU daslog fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Nov 24, 2016 |
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Nov 24, 2016 16:15
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kastein posted:Isn't it always fun when you fix something on your car and it doesn't solve anything? Just went through that with my Miata, was sure it was a fueling issue and it ended up being the plug wires. So I'm voting plug wires 
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Nov 24, 2016 16:45
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Yea that definitely sounds like ignition problems for sure. If you need any more manifold parts I have 2 02 up ones at my house you can scrounge.
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Nov 24, 2016 18:41
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daslog posted:The other thing to try is to knock out the CATS on the first exhaust manifold and put them back on. There are no cats on this manifold, it is the older style with only downstream cats. And the ones on it now came off the red forester that ran fine, so I think they are fine. The TPS is probably? Fine but I will try it if plugs and wires and coil don't fix it. Not swapping the ECU.
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Nov 25, 2016 18:29
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 It was the plugs. I did a test drive after swapping in new ones and it was perfect. Threw some spare wires I had on after because a few of the originals looked a bit lovely on the terminals. Also turns out I am leaking oil on the driver rear cylinder plug seal, which is just great. Guess I should order VC gaskets.
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Nov 30, 2016 14:12
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loving Autolites in a Subaru, really? I know the ignition systems on those things are tough but you can't gently caress through a rope with a limp dick by trying harder. Oh but they're platinums 
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Nov 30, 2016 15:12
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I have the same plugs in my Volvo, because PO
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Nov 30, 2016 15:16
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It sure seemed fine until it started misfiring after who knows how many miles, maybe I just don't give a gently caress what plugs I run (aside from having the right gap, electrode style, and material.) I'd need to see some actual scientific study level statistical proof before I care what plugs I use. It seems very much like the "what oil should I use" debate to me, maybe I'm misinformed.
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Nov 30, 2016 15:21
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kastein posted:It sure seemed fine until it started misfiring after who knows how many miles, maybe I just don't give a gently caress what plugs I run (aside from having the right gap, electrode style, and material.) Well scubaru recommend a ngk plug. And I've always had good results with ngk plugs. Where as I have had four or five a.c. Delco fail out of the box and just as many of not more vautolite plugs fail fresh out of the box. Mind you this is my experience so ymmv.
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Nov 30, 2016 15:51
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kastein posted:I'd need to see some actual scientific study level statistical proof before I care what plugs I use. Install Champions and report back.
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Nov 30, 2016 15:56
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kastein posted:It sure seemed fine until it started misfiring after who knows how many miles, maybe I just don't give a gently caress what plugs I run (aside from having the right gap, electrode style, and material.) According to every internet mechanic, put copper plugs and 15w-40 in everything from airplanes to subarus.
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Nov 30, 2016 16:12
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angryrobots posted:According to every internet mechanic, put copper plugs and 10w-40 Rotella in everything from airplanes to subarus.
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Nov 30, 2016 16:15
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is the V-power or quadruple electrode sparkplug going to make a difference in my diesel?
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Nov 30, 2016 16:27
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Dagen H posted:Install Champions and report back. Hey man, they work great in my lawnmower.
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Nov 30, 2016 16:53
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:43 |
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Dagen H posted:quote edit
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Nov 30, 2016 17:10
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