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Three-Phase posted:Yeah I've worked live around 800V and 4160V. I still treat the 250V battery bank with great respect. I have class 00 gloves that are good live to I think 500Vac. Replacing individual cells or cleaning corroded busbars is very do-able. I'd just be concerned about making sure replacement cells were matched/balanced. Only prius MG I've ever seen fail was because of a coolant leak and a dumb fucker of an owner. Source: worked at a toyota dealer for a few years.
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Nov 23, 2016 06:52
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kastein posted:That will be fine but you might curse yourself for not being able to fit a drat socket on it past the bumps in the casting. The small head is likely there for a reason. Good point, I'll see how accessible they are before committing Is grade 5 not good enough for engine parts?
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Nov 23, 2016 07:12
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Razzled posted:Good point, I'll see how accessible they are before committing I think it depends on the engine. My 70's honda motorcycles bolts (even the head studs) are made of laffy tafy.
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Nov 23, 2016 07:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Motor/gen life can be helped by doing CVT fluid changes. Toyota claims lifetime fluid for the Prius (or did at one point), but I've also seen horror stories about the CVT failing if you don't change the fluid. I would assume it gets a bit acidic as it ages and could start eating the insulation on the windings, and a lot of people have had the fluid analyzed by labs - consensus seems to be to change it every 50k. I really like the idea of sending the CVT fluid to be analyzed. I will probably try to do that every 25,000 miles. That's probably a lot easier and more meaningful then meggering or doing other more sophisticated motor analysis. As far as the HV leak detection, we do the same thing for motors at work. We have differential current transformers that measure the current flowing into the motor windings and out to the Wye point. It's like a GFCI in your bathroom. Thank you very very much for pointing this out about the CVT fluid replacement! As an aside: we have a plug-in electrical thread here. Maybe we need a hybrid thread too. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 12:35
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A tire question. I was putting on my Blizzaks, and noticed a small piece of sharp, twisted metal in its treads. Pulled it out, and noticed it sliced pretty deep into my tire (hard to show the extent of the cut in the below photo). It isn't leaking air, but obviously I don't want the cut to get any larger. What kind of quick repair options do I have for something like this? EDIT: Won't worry about it, then. Thanks AI dudes. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 15:49
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melon cat posted:It isn't leaking air Don't worry about it.
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Nov 23, 2016 16:07
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Dagen H posted:Don't worry about it. This. If you're super concerned about it, you can probably take it somewhere for a preemptive patch, but they might not even do anything if it hasn't actually pierced the tire.
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Nov 23, 2016 16:21
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Christobevii3 posted:Crutchfield Thanks!
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Nov 23, 2016 21:56
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My ex wife just bought a used highlander awd. I noticed the tires on it are pretty low on tread except one has quite a bit more tread (At least 1/8 of an inch more). It's my assumption that this is bad for the awd system (at least that's the case with Subarus awd). I told her to go back and bitch just due to the lack of tread, and also add that this is bad for the awd system, is this correct?
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Nov 24, 2016 17:55
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tater_salad posted:My ex wife just bought a used highlander awd. I noticed the tires on it are pretty low on tread except one has quite a bit more tread (At least 1/8 of an inch more). In theory yes and it's good that you did that because having one prominently less worn tyre than the other three isn't a good thing on any car, awd or not. In practice it's a highlander and won't give two shits.
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Nov 24, 2016 19:11
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Alright I'll still have her see I'd they can toss tires on it, anyways dueb to the fact that they probably would just barely pass state ibspection. Apparently she didn't think it a good idea to ask anyone who might know something about cars with her.
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Nov 25, 2016 00:35
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That's why she's your ex wife.
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Nov 25, 2016 00:43
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No, there's lots of other reasons, but I care about her vehicle a little, since my kids go to and from school in it on a regular basis.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Nov 25, 2016 |
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Nov 25, 2016 00:51
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AI hive mind, how would you solve this: Battery for the GMC is one hundred and ten percent dead, and starts heating up and gassing off H2S when connected to a charger. So I don't think it wise to just jump it and drive over with the hosed battery installed. It is under warranty, but the warranty is older than I am, and through Firestone. They want to have the truck there to do the exchange, presumably so I can't be using said warranty on a vehicle that didn't exist in 1976. When I had this problem a few years ago, I had the Ranger. Its battery was a direct fit in the GMC's tray. The WJ battery will start it up with ease, but is way larger and won't fit in the tray. Which I guess leaves me with the dinky battery from the Honda, but I doubt I can get it secured in any reasonable manner. I'm also not convinced it even has the same size terminals. Am I missing something here? I almost want to just go find a nasty cheap junkyard-tier battery, as long as I can get it to charge without blowing up or killing the alternator.
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Nov 25, 2016 06:21
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A $20 JY battery should do the trick.
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Nov 25, 2016 15:55
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So I replaced the water pump in my 96 lumina a few days ago and now it's pissing coolant from somewhere that I can't see. Checked all the hoses I could get to and they all seem OK. After some googling it seems its a good possibility it's the intake manifold gasket. Checked the oil and its just oil so it seems nothing has mixed at least. Here's a (crappy) video trying to see where it's coming from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hxrtn-HlNgs Thoughts?
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Nov 25, 2016 19:59
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Razzled posted:My pretty '89 F150 won't idle anymore! Starts up fine and can keep it alive with gas, but it won't idle. Everything I've read about this issue points towards first checking out the IAC (idle air control valve?) Cleaned up the IAC (was fine, barely anything on it, seems it was replaced already before) and the throttle body (which was caked on with baked oil/carbon) and if anything the truck runs worse than before haha. Finally went and bought a code reader (dunno why I waited this long). The only code it gives me during a KOEO test is 22 which is designated in my haynes manual as "MAP Sensor signal out-of-normal range". I started by testing DC Voltage on the MAP's VREF wire and confirmed it was receiving an in-spec 4-6 (5.8V) reading on it. I back probed the signal wire on the MAP sensor's harness while it was plugged in and the ignition was ON (engine off) and I was getting a reading of 117.x Hz (apparently the weird Ford MAP sensors are measured in frequency rather than volt?) According to Test 1 on this page: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-2 The MAP sensor should read the following when the engine is off: 1.) 0 in. Hg ...... 152 Hz. Right? Because there's very little vacuum when the engine is off. So the problem is the MAP sensor is starting at 117 Hz? I don't have a vacuum pump/gauge so I can't actually check if it moves at the moment. My question I guess is: Is this enough evidence for me to have to buy a new MAP sensor? And is it worth paying triple the price of other aftermarket MAP sensors to get the 100 dollar motorcraft one?
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Nov 26, 2016 04:55
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Is the Motorcraft one carried by Rockauto? (they do carry some Motorcraft products) If it is, type the part number into Amazon, and you'll likely find a much lower price. If it's not, find a part number somewhere for the Motorcraft part, type "Motorcraft <part number>" into Amazon, and you may be surprised. I'm getting an occasional MAP sensor code on my car as well. The OEM GM one is 5 times the cost of a no-name. The no-name has all 1 star reviews on Amazon, the OEM one has a 4.5 rating. I'll pay the extra, though in this case the OEM for my car is $50, and requires removing the throttle body to get to. I'd say you're on the right track, but I really don't know earlier EFI systems very well. Kastein or Motronic may be a bit more helpful if they see this.
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Nov 26, 2016 06:42
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2001 Ford Escape: My sis's escape has sprung a decent radiator leak 100+ miles from home. Are there any ways to temp patch it so we can get home?
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Nov 26, 2016 18:21
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Parts Kit posted:2001 Ford Escape: Break two raw eggs into the radiator, fill with water.
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Nov 26, 2016 19:45
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Got a patch kit, seems to be holding for now.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:03
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I had to jump my car yesterday and I noticed white crusty stuff around around the battery. Knowing this was probably acidic or nasty I brushed most of it off with a glove. What is this? Should I be worried? How do I prevent it? Car hasn't been driven regularly for about 4 months but has been driven in that time and up until now (been left for about 4 weeks) has always started fine.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:06
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It's corrosion, yes. You don't need to be actively worried, as it's completely normal for a battery to do it, but it's not something you want, either. It can cause poor electrical contact if it gets really bad. Smearing vaseline on the terminals usually helps keep it at bay.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:48
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InitialDave posted:It's corrosion, yes. Thanks. The worst of it is actually on the bracket the holds the battery in place. The terminals have a bit, but not much. Will clean it off and coat in Vaseline. Related, is it true you need to top up a battery with water?
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Nov 26, 2016 22:36
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Most batteries people buy are maintenance-free. Before that became the norm, maintaining your battery by adding distilled water and electrolyte was the norm. You might have one of those type, but you'd probably know.
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Nov 26, 2016 22:53
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Also, you'd need a hydrometer so you wouldn't add too much water
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Nov 27, 2016 00:59
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I need inflate my tires, but the hose at the gas stations are like impossible to use. Is there an adapter I can buy that connects to the end of the gas station's air hose so I can easily fill up my tires? The one's they have at the gas station look like this.
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Nov 27, 2016 04:20
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punk rebel ecks posted:I need inflate my tires, but the hose at the gas stations are like impossible to use. Is there an adapter I can buy that connects to the end of the gas station's air hose so I can easily fill up my tires? Those are the standard inflation valves that have been used everywhere for like 100 years. Maybe you should learn how to use it. You push it on, centered on the valve stem so that the valve seals in the hole. When the valve stem is fully depressed it presses on the central button, releasing the air into the tire.
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Nov 27, 2016 04:23
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Deteriorata posted:Those are the standard inflation valves that have been used everywhere for like 100 years. Maybe you should learn how to use it. I understand, but is there no connector I can use to make things easier?
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Nov 27, 2016 04:30
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punk rebel ecks posted:I understand, but is there no connector I can use to make things easier? No. Man up and learn how to use it correctly.
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Nov 27, 2016 04:32
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Deteriorata posted:No. Man up and learn how to use it correctly. This, and/or buy a compressor with a better fitting and do it yourself. My garage compressor I use a tire chuck with a quick clamp on it, my portable Viair inflator threads onto the stem like the cap does. Dagen H posted:A $20 JY battery should do the trick. I ended up doing the $0 version of this. I remembered my mom has a PT Cruiser (not hers) sitting in her side yard, and as luck would have it, it uses a group 26 battery. Close enough to the group 24 that I didn't even have to dick with bungee cords. Took a charge and a jump to get it rolling but after running for half an hour it would restart on its own, and no gassing or boiling. Got what I think is the 12th battery on a 40+ year warranty. Thank you, Firestone!
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Nov 27, 2016 05:24
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Ever since using a lovely (Circle K) gas station compressor, two of my valve stems are full of crud. I woke up one morning to a randomly deflated tire. Went to fill it back up at a station, and I could hear it hissing. I kept hitting the center button randomly until it cleared up (as evidenced with a bit of spit showing no bubbles). Yes, I'm sure the valve cores are tight - I checked. Beware an unknown compressor! Buy your own!
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Nov 27, 2016 05:28
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I used to use my brother's compressor all the time, but it had a much smaller end. A lot like this. Can I just buy one of these and hook it up to the gas station's?
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Nov 27, 2016 05:30
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punk rebel ecks posted:I used to use my brother's compressor all the time, but it had a much smaller end. A lot like this. The only trick to it is keeping it square to the valve. You just line it up and push. I figured out when I was about 6 to fill bike tires.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:38
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punk rebel ecks posted:I used to use my brother's compressor all the time, but it had a much smaller end. A lot like this. No, those get screwed on. Any adapter you try to get will just add an extra step and will still have the exact same point of failure, just in a different location. You'll have to interface with the gas station's connector at some point.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:51
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punk rebel ecks posted:I need inflate my tires, but the hose at the gas stations are like impossible to use. Is there an adapter I can buy that connects to the end of the gas station's air hose so I can easily fill up my tires? Make sure it is centered and push firmly. It is possible that your local gas station's valve is crudded up or damaged. Try another station, center it, and push firmly. If your hands are cold, wear gloves. You can search youtube for instructional videos, but in all cases you will need to center the hose valve on the tire valve stem and push firmly.
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Nov 27, 2016 07:18
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It's the easiest thing in car maintenance. If you can't even figure this one out just take it to a shop.
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Nov 27, 2016 11:15
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Why are you all being dicks about this? Do you not understand that those push-on connecters can be a pig to use on some wheel or wheeltrim designs? Or on bikes? Punk Rebel Ecks, ask at a motorcycle place about tyre valve extensions, you put them on the valve first so it sticks out further/at a better angle, which can both give better access, and more to hold onto to you can really squeeze the valve and inflator chuck together if it's a bit of a crap seal. You can get metal ones at various angles, or flexible ones. I wouldn't leave them permanently attached, though, just put them on as necessary. Truck/trailer/RV places sell a similar thing that's meant for permanently fitting to dual wheels to you can inflate the inner one, but I guess they'd work as a tool to use as and when as well.
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Nov 27, 2016 12:42
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punk rebel ecks posted:I used to use my brother's compressor all the time, but it had a much smaller end. A lot like this. Just buy one of these and do it at home: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-40022-...nflator+digital 
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Nov 27, 2016 16:16
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Those DC inflators are usually trash. They'll work in a pinch but inflating all 4 will heat that thing up something fierce, seeing as it will take ages to do anything over 20psi.
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Nov 27, 2016 17:05
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