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I'm tempted to open my extension housing up to change the rear gasket since I think that's where my transmission is leaking from. I'll just totally avert my eyes from the entire centre diff setup.
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Nov 23, 2016 01:38
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How stupid would I be to get a 2017 WRX? I'm really liking it.
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Nov 23, 2016 12:42
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daslog posted:I finished changing the center diff bearings in the 04 WRX and installing the Short shift kit from Jamal. No more awful noise coming from the transmission. The only one with visible wear for me was the roller bearing at the front of the output shaft, I think it's the one that didn't fall apart for you, and my noise was almost earsplitting at 70kph. Subarus are weird.
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Nov 23, 2016 13:56
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BloodBag posted:How stupid would I be to get a 2017 WRX? I'm really liking it. What would be stupid about it? It's a pretty "normal" car in comparison with everything else on the road at this point. Nice new modern engine and excellent fuel economy for a real AWD system. The audio experience is miserable though. The stock head unit is trash and the tires are extremely noisy for not a ton of performance gain. I replaced all of the aforementioned.
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Nov 23, 2016 16:14
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um excuse me posted:What would be stupid about it? It's a pretty "normal" car in comparison with everything else on the road at this point. Nice new modern engine and excellent fuel economy for a real AWD system. I just drove one. It's brilliant! The tires did seem noisy to me as well and I drove with the radio off so I could hear the engine and not stall the thing. The clutch was really nice and the whole manual thing became invisible after about 5 minutes. I love it.
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Nov 23, 2016 17:35
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Do the 17s still have the garbage emission "feature" to hang the rev for a second or two going into second and third gears? That's the one thing I loving hate about my 16.
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Nov 23, 2016 18:03
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BloodBag posted:I just drove one. It's brilliant! The tires did seem noisy to me as well and I drove with the radio off so I could hear the engine and not stall the thing. The clutch was really nice and the whole manual thing became invisible after about 5 minutes. I love it.
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Nov 23, 2016 18:06
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Anyone interested in a collection of the first 19 Subaru Service Bulletin books? I bought them when I had my 78 GL Wagon and forgot I still have them. Otherwise I'm going to send them to kastein's to torture him with 20 years of Subaru's bad engineering choices.
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Nov 23, 2016 19:18
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DJ Commie posted:Anyone interested in a collection of the first 19 Subaru Service Bulletin books? I bought them when I had my 78 GL Wagon and forgot I still have them. Otherwise I'm going to send them to kastein's to torture him with 20 years of Subaru's bad engineering choices. How big are they?
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Nov 23, 2016 20:01
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^^^^^ Book rate to 'stralya can't be that bad. BloodBag posted:I just drove one. It's brilliant! The tires did seem noisy to me as well and I drove with the radio off so I could hear the engine and not stall the thing. The clutch was really nice and the whole manual thing became invisible after about 5 minutes. I love it. Wait, the clutch was nice? On a WRX? How the gently caress did they fix that as my understanding is the wrx 6 speed is just a 5 speed with another gear.
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Nov 23, 2016 20:21
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I don't think they really changed anything between the '16 and '17 WRX, definitely not anything mechanical. I thought the clutch and shifter in the '16 WRX I drove were kind of big letdowns. Also yeah that rev hang while shifting is obnoxious as hell. I'm sure you adjust and get used to it, but it's really jarring at first coming from cars that don't do that.
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Nov 23, 2016 20:25
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I was surprised the clutch was nice too. I thought it'd be like the Mazdaspeed6 on/off clutch, but it was pretty progressive and not at all unlike the BRZ or miata. Progressive and easy to modulate. Compared to a BMW clutch it was loving fantastic. It did rev-hang as well, but I got used to it pretty quickly. If you think the WRX clutch sucks, go drive a base-model mini manual. Your expectations will be greatly lowered and everything will be great after that. Having actual torque at idle was wonderful for parking too. The way it kinda revs up the engine for you while backing was kinda weird, but not unwelcome. Also rear-view cameras seem pretty stupid to me in a car with such great sight lines. I was even impressed with the ride. I thought it'd ride harsh like a chuck wagon (mini cooper), but it was nice and composed. Even pushed it a bit through two u-turns and it pretty much is a point-and-shoot corner exit. Liked it all around! Also, WR blue makes my pants grow tight. After a lifetime of pining for a blue car, I may just get it... E: I went into this test-drive with no pre-conceived notions. I liked the interior and the wheel was comfortable. It was easy to get a nice driving position and I liked the car overall with both spirited and sedate driving. I hadn't heard they had lovely clutches or floppy shifters, I just went with an open mind and drove a car I thought looked nice. I'm not Clarkson or Chubba Chedda or however you spell it. I'm just a guy who's looking for a nice, new car after a slew of used, neglected shitboxes. BloodBag fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 20:37
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bull3964 posted:My guess to fix it fully would be around $1900. Your cheapest repair would be to get a junkyard fender either color matching or getting it painted off car for a rough match and then swapping it out and then ignoring the door. Thanks for the reply, that is much more than I thought it would be. I'll keep looking for used parts, then.
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Nov 24, 2016 18:17
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um excuse me posted:What would be stupid about it? It's a pretty "normal" car in comparison with everything else on the road at this point. Nice new modern engine and excellent fuel economy for a real AWD system. What head unit did you replace it with?
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Nov 24, 2016 22:05
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I currently have a Pioneer NEX 4200 installed. Pretty amazing unit. I also added a mess of subwoofer stuff.
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Nov 27, 2016 03:05
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Hey goon with the stage rally prepped WRX wagon I forgot your name/username so PM me. I'm the guy who came up to big white to do some photo stuff a couple years ago and had his 98 RHD STI strand him on the side of the road. I'm going up again this year with a friend basically as something fun to do - let me know if you're headed up. I'll be bringing my camera stuff and because I'm in a car now that won't poo poo the bed I should be able to get a lot of good shots. I also owe your buddy Kevin a loving ton of beer for saving my rear end with the radiator out of his legacy. E: found it thanks VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 01:25
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Anyone know the location of something that can tell me where all the vaccuum lines go for a Forester GT MY00? Not having much luck coming up with something that accuratly reflects the car. I'm pretty sure I got the lines wrong and I have no boooooostu
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Nov 28, 2016 04:07
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I just want to quick comment... ha ha ha holy poo poo is it awful to get the OEM uppipe out of the car! I heard all the time estimates and wondered how that could be right, given it's only a couple bolts and nuts... but dear god, what a clusterfuck.
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Nov 29, 2016 18:08
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I recently retrofitted heated seats into my 2002 Subaru Legacy Sedan and took some pictures along the way. http://imgur.com/a/oMHoP I had been looking for junkyard seats for a while, but gray is hard to find. I eventually found some cloth heated seats from a 1999 outback that were the right color and looked like they would fit properly. I also grabbed the heated seat harness out of a 2002 legacy that had trashed seats. During the electrical installation the hardest part was finding the blue wire behind the dash that would normally go to the heated seats. Since I didn't see any way to add a single contact to the body plug, I clipped the wire, installed an inline fuse, and then ran my own wire down to the shifter area where I put the control relay and buttons. I tapped into the cigarette lighter plug for my ignition power signal and my interior lighting, and grounded it all to a bolt in the area. As for the seat installation itself, the trick was to put in the pair of rear bolts inner first, and then work outward to get all 5 bolts to line up. I also had to move my old seat belt receivers over to the heated seats since they were slightly different. The new heated seats heated up nicely, but I could tell they were a bit older and maybe not quite as comfy as my previous seats. About a month later I found a pair of dark gray leather heated outback seats from a different early 2000s for $40 and swapped those in instead. These seats needed no receiver swapping, but I did need to move over my seat-belt safety switch plug. The leather seats are more comfortable than either of the previous cloth seats, but they do take a bit longer to heat up (expected), and are a bit colder to sit on initially.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:11
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So going on 185k on my 04 WRX wagon. Shes got exhaust leaks (warped up pipe flange), is burning oil from the turbo im pretty sure, and just started misfiring on cylinder one at near peak load (pretty sure its old spark plugs). I have new headers, and up pipe to put on and a new used turbo. I figure ill just port match and polish everything while im here. I am having issues separating the exhaust side from the CHRA though, seems to be rusted on. Ive been giving it the tappy tap with a dead blow and PB blaster. No dice so far. Any other ideas?
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Dec 2, 2016 23:21
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Sadi posted:So going on 185k on my 04 WRX wagon. Shes got exhaust leaks (warped up pipe flange), is burning oil from the turbo im pretty sure, and just started misfiring on cylinder one at near peak load (pretty sure its old spark plugs). CHRA? Do you mean separating the Turbo from the up pip, the down pipe, or something else?
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Dec 2, 2016 23:46
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Nope, I removed the V band from the turbo and I want to remove the center section so I dont get chips in it when I take the burs and sanding wheels to it.
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Dec 2, 2016 23:49
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Sadi posted:Nope, I removed the V band from the turbo and I want to remove the center section so I dont get chips in it when I take the burs and sanding wheels to it. Oh you are trying to fix the turbo itself? If it's a TD04 just throw it in the trash.
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Dec 2, 2016 23:53
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Not fix, just port and polish a fresh one. The one in the car is trash.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:08
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Sadi posted:Not fix, just port and polish a fresh one. The one in the car is trash. I've never done anything with a TD04 besides make fun of it for being terrible. Maybe someone else knows.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:15
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For sure. But it's a dd/rallycross car so spool is more important than peak boost for me.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:37
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JBark posted:This had most of the info I needed, though it starts off STi specific. A few pages in there was some info on other models. Thanks!!! I will give this a shot.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:57
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opinions on 7/4 kg for gd sedan coilovers?
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Dec 6, 2016 09:21
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Way wrong. Rear about 15% softer is a good starting point. So like 7/6.
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Dec 6, 2016 09:27
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A very long time ago you recommended me 6/5, should I still recommend that?
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Dec 6, 2016 09:36
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underage at the vape shop posted:opinions on 7/4 kg for gd sedan coilovers? I recall you are Aust located so....... Call MCA in Queensland. Why? Because Josh and Murray know more about suspension and what would best suit you than just about any person on the planet. If they say 7/5, do it. Dont talk to us because MCA simply know. We have two cars with full MCA setups and not one have we even considered adjusting from what came from Murray. Also if you havent got coilovers yet, then you know who to buy from. There is simply no one better for the price, full stop. Anyone claiming otherwise is a loving liar.
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Dec 6, 2016 10:29
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Yeah I don't have mine yet either but I'm gunna order soon. Jamal did recommend me 6/5 last time I asked. Their warehouse is in Brisbane but their office is in Gympie or something and I'm gunna talk to them after work tomorrow.
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Dec 6, 2016 11:03
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They will usually ask you a bunch of questions about how you drive and also what the use of the suspension will be. They will also usually recommend the right rebound / compression and static ride heights. Basically go with whatever they say you should do, dont follow a thing we think. No one here knows poo poo compared to Murray. (They are literally the only company I just trust to get it right - fact checked myself, we have four sets of either MCA or suspension rebuilt by Murray. Not a single set has come back anything less than what we paid for... and also even if you buy the lower end stuff they will do free spring swap service if you dont like what they recommend)
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Dec 6, 2016 11:22
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Go suss out the MCA website. They have a questionnaire that you can fill out when you order the coil overs.
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Dec 6, 2016 11:40
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I'm probably going to be returning to the world of flannel early next year. I had a Legacy for my first car which met an unfortunate end and I'm currently driving a 92 Miata. I've decided I'd like another car soon though, something with more room but not too sensible. Of all the cars I can afford (foreign resident in Japan so it's cash down, no loans) the WRX looks the most interesting at the moment, and at that price I'm looking at GC8s and bug eyes. From what I've seen available out here, GC8s come out slightly cheaper but are more bare bones and most of them have misplaced their airbags, whereas the bug eyes cost a bit more and are a bit fatter for the price of being slightly more modern. Is the GC8 worth dealing with for its age or should I just pony up for a bug eye? For reference I've done a clutch replacement and brake rebuilds on the Miata so that side of things doesn't bother me too much.
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Dec 6, 2016 15:19
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It's actually pretty simple, the spring rates should be close to matching the weight distribution and there is really no good reason to stray much from that. On a track car you might tend toward even or possibly slightly stiffer rear rates in some cases but having the rear wheel rate set at only like 60% of the front is going to be wrong pretty much no matter what. So yes, 6/5 is good, 7/6 is more closely balanced and only a bit firmer. With most coilovers you can't really have really soft springs anyway because they will run out of bump travel. An 8"/200mm 6k spring is going to be compress about 2.7"/70mm at ride height (assuming corner weight of 900lb and 1:1 motion ratio). That leaves 2.1" or 53mm for bump travel before coil bind. That is probably going to be acceptable but it depends on the shock and ride height. I do agree that if you are in Australia get MCAs. In the US I tend to stick with Racecomp Engineering's reworked KWs although there are a few other things I like. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 19:16
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RillAkBea posted:I'm probably going to be returning to the world of flannel early next year. I had a Legacy for my first car which met an unfortunate end and I'm currently driving a 92 Miata. I've decided I'd like another car soon though, something with more room but not too sensible. Of all the cars I can afford (foreign resident in Japan so it's cash down, no loans) the WRX looks the most interesting at the moment, and at that price I'm looking at GC8s and bug eyes. From what I've seen available out here, GC8s come out slightly cheaper but are more bare bones and most of them have misplaced their airbags, whereas the bug eyes cost a bit more and are a bit fatter for the price of being slightly more modern. Is the GC8 worth dealing with for its age or should I just pony up for a bug eye? For reference I've done a clutch replacement and brake rebuilds on the Miata so that side of things doesn't bother me too much. There is so little real mechanical differences between the bugeye and the GC8, it's frankly a wash. The Bugeye isnt really more modern at all, it does have better crash protection at the cost of I think 1-200kgs more weight. The GC8 isnt quite as nice to drive about as the bugeye as a daily, but it is def more fun. Oh and due to the weight, responds to mods much better. GC8, use the cost difference to throw in fun mods.
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Dec 6, 2016 21:20
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Since its topical but helping no one specifically, I'll add that the Racecomp Engineering Tarmac II coilovers I got from jamal for my VA WRX have been a dream since I got them dialed in. My course times are pretty spot on with the STI. I only wish they changed the offset on the threads a little since the ride height on the rear is maxed out and the front is 75% lowered to maintain a stock ride height. I'm guessing this was probably more to accommodate the previous GR chassis. They are 500 lbs/in (8.9k) all around making the wheel rate 500 in the front and 390 in the rear. The ratio is 56/44. The cars weight distribution is 60/40 so I would probably agree with jamal. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 21:42
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RillAkBea posted:I'm probably going to be returning to the world of flannel early next year. I had a Legacy for my first car which met an unfortunate end and I'm currently driving a 92 Miata. I've decided I'd like another car soon though, something with more room but not too sensible. Of all the cars I can afford (foreign resident in Japan so it's cash down, no loans) the WRX looks the most interesting at the moment, and at that price I'm looking at GC8s and bug eyes. From what I've seen available out here, GC8s come out slightly cheaper but are more bare bones and most of them have misplaced their airbags, whereas the bug eyes cost a bit more and are a bit fatter for the price of being slightly more modern. Is the GC8 worth dealing with for its age or should I just pony up for a bug eye? For reference I've done a clutch replacement and brake rebuilds on the Miata so that side of things doesn't bother me too much. I'm an enormous, rabid fan of the GC/GF series but if I were buying a daily I would buy another GD/GG. Plus you live in Japan so you can raid the entire world of Spec-C take-off parts abandoned in used parts consignment stores you lucky poo poo.
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Dec 6, 2016 21:46
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um excuse me posted:Since its topical but helping no one specifically, I'll add that the Racecomp Engineering Tarmac II coilovers I got from jamal for my VA WRX have been a dream since I got them dialed in. My course times are pretty spot on with the STI. I only wish they changed the offset on the threads a little since the ride height on the rear is maxed out and the front is 75% lowered to maintain a stock ride height. I'm guessing this was probably more to accommodate the previous GR chassis. Interesting about the rear spring perches, I will mention it to them because I would have assumed the rear is the same part from 14-15. The front struts are a bit longer for the VA which means putting a shorter GR shock on it will generally be good, especially with a camber plate that adds stack height. I think their 15+ specific Bilsteins only have the new abs sensor bracket but are the shorter length. And then those rear shocks have multiple snap ring grooves. And KW for some reason specs the V3 with 400/280 lb f/r springs for that chassis. Ohlins DFV are 515/400, everything cheaper like bc, tein etc is the same way. That does improve ride but is going to make the car push and require a bigger rear swaybar if you are actually go to go and try and drive it on a track. Or maybe it's the other way around- they know everyone is going to go buy a big rear swaybar and don't want people spinning their cars into the ditch all the time. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 22:19
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