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Puddin posted:Coil whine off the video card under load? Is the coil whine noise supposed to come out from the speakers though? I suspect this is not the cause because I had the same problem (although to a lesser extent) with my previous graphics car?
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Nov 21, 2016 09:19
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I have a question about a weird thing my new sound card does: I bought a Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX 5.1 - PCI-E card few months back (originally using the motherboard's built-in sound-card) and it works without a problem. The only issue is that every time I turn on the computer I hear a "pop" in the speakers. Not very loud (it does depend on the volume level of the speakers though, so it can be loud). The cables seem to be plugged in properly, the sound card itself works fine once in the OS, but there is this annoying pop when I turn on the computer. One, half-a-second pop (maybe less). The MB integrated sound-card never did that. I have an ASUS X79 PRO motherboard, and I have 3 cards plugged in in various PCI-E slots: Video card in the first slot, 3ware RAID card in one slot and this sound card. Anyone ever heard of such a thing? Where could I even look (search for) for some basic troubleshooting? Is the sound card to blame or is it the motherboard? Or completely something else?
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Nov 21, 2016 18:41
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Next time you turn on the computer, jiggle the cable partly in and out if the jack. See if you get more popping noises, maybe turn the volume down a bit first.
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Nov 21, 2016 19:41
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Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest. Anyway, what course of action do you all recommend me to take? The laptop is totally functional and I am using it right now to make this post. But I'm a huge fan of this laptop and really don't want it to break anytime soon, so I don't want to just pretend that nothing happened. So, like, should I perhaps put some duct tape over the crack or something? Or should I take it to a computer repair shop? I would prefer not to ship the laptop off to the folks at Lenovo because that seems like it would be a huge hassle. Thanks very much for your consideration, and I hope everyone is having a nifty November!
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Nov 22, 2016 05:48
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Next time you turn on the computer, jiggle the cable partly in and out if the jack. See if you get more popping noises, maybe turn the volume down a bit first. I did. No noises except when I pulled the jack almost fully out.
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Nov 22, 2016 05:51
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Berated Tham posted:Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest. I'd probably put some tape on it. The replacement part I can find on ebay isn't super cheap (there's others but this one's $52) and it'll probably be fine as long as you can get it so nothing gets in there (dust, water, etc).
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Nov 22, 2016 06:32
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Samsung 840 EVO 120G (boot drive) Western Digital 2TB (media) Seagate 1TB (media + programs like Steam etc) So, after restarting my pc the Seagate drive did not appear in the boot menu and after a few more restarts I decided to read up on some solution. I saw on help thread through google (i forget which) where one person suggested unplugging the cables and plugging them back in to see if it shows up again, and so I did that. After doing so I started my pc up and the Seagate HDD shows up again, but now I'm a bit shook. My big question is why would the HDD show up again after unplugging and plugging the cables back in and is the HDD failing on me? Agrajag fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 08:28
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I've got a 256 GB SSD on its way here, and a 320 GB HDD with less than 256 gigs of stuff on it whose contents I want to copy over to the new SSD. If I make a backup of the HDD with a Clonezilla disc, will I be able to "recover" that backup to the new SSD?
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Nov 22, 2016 08:55
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A good poster posted:I've got a 256 GB SSD on its way here, and a 320 GB HDD with less than 256 gigs of stuff on it whose contents I want to copy over to the new SSD. If I make a backup of the HDD with a Clonezilla disc, will I be able to "recover" that backup to the new SSD? Yeah, you can do that. You can also image from disk to disk if you have a way to hook them both up at once. Clonezilla is fine, I've been using Macrium Reflect Free often lately to do it from inside windows.
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Nov 22, 2016 09:00
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A good poster posted:I've got a 256 GB SSD on its way here, and a 320 GB HDD with less than 256 gigs of stuff on it whose contents I want to copy over to the new SSD. If I make a backup of the HDD with a Clonezilla disc, will I be able to "recover" that backup to the new SSD? Can clonezilla restore backups onto a different drive than the one it was made from? If so, should work. No experience with Clonezilla myself. If you're on a desktop couldn't you just connect the second drive and either move the files yourself or use a data-migration tool? If you're using a laptop and only have one drive port, I see your problem... As for my own question, let me preface it with saying I'm an idiot and probably don't understand how PCIe lanes and slots work. If I have a CPU with a maximum of 16 PCIe lanes like the i7-6700 (I don't, but it's a good example) and I plug in an SSD through a PCIe port, does that impact the theoretical bandwidth between the GPU and CPU? It's my understanding that if you have a device running in x16 mode and you connect another device (say in x4 mode like a PCI SSDs) you'll either need more than 16 PCIe lanes or accept the first device dropping down to x8 mode. Am I completely wrong in this? Also, if this is the case, should I care? E: Rexxed, of course you'd beat my reply.
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Nov 22, 2016 09:20
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Agrajag posted:Samsung 840 EVO 120G (boot drive) It's a good time to make sure your backups are up to date! -- It's possible that the cables may have loosened over time due to vibrations, but it would be good to check and see if your drive is healthy. Download Crystal Disk Info (get the standard version unless you really like anime) and post the results for the Seagate drive. Teledahn posted:As for my own question, let me preface it with saying I'm an idiot and probably don't understand how PCIe lanes and slots work. If I have a CPU with a maximum of 16 PCIe lanes like the i7-6700 (I don't, but it's a good example) and I plug in an SSD through a PCIe port, does that impact the theoretical bandwidth between the GPU and CPU? It's my understanding that if you have a device running in x16 mode and you connect another device (say in x4 mode like a PCI SSDs) you'll either need more than 16 PCIe lanes or accept the first device dropping down to x8 mode. If you plug the SSD into a PCIe port that's using CPU PCIe lanes, then yes, your GPU will drop down to x8. The impact of this is ~1% loss in performance. Depending on the model, your motherboard may have additional PCIe lanes that you are able to access and put things in. Z170 chipset boards have an additional 20, though some are taken up for things (like gigabit lan, usb 3.1). Using these will not take away lanes from your GPU, as they are separate from the CPU lanes (different controllers). CPU lanes are "better" because chipset lanes have to take an additional hop before reaching the CPU, but for most purposes it doesn't really matter. I found this, maybe it'll help 
Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 12:11 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 11:31
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Actuarial Fables posted:It's a good time to make sure your backups are up to date! I assume the drive is still good? I'm probably going to replace it anyway since there is a real good deal for a HGST 4TB right now. 
Agrajag fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 13:56
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Berated Tham posted:Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest. Black electrical tape is fairly inconspicuous compared to duct tape.
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Nov 22, 2016 14:24
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Agrajag posted:I assume the drive is still good? I'm probably going to replace it anyway since there is a real good deal for a HGST 4TB right now.
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Nov 22, 2016 14:31
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Berated Tham posted:Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest. I'd recommend you do a thin strip of superglue along the crack to keep the pieces together better, and then cover it over with electrical tape after it's had time to set.
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Nov 22, 2016 15:28
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That's just sweet. After a BIOS update, video doesn't initialize anymore, except the first boot after clearing CMOS. And whenever the video driver in Windows starts the device. gently caress you, Asrock. --edit: "Above 4G decoding" doesn't seem to like the BIOS very much at all. Jesus. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 01:36
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I can't get my head around how Windows network list BS works. I can connect and obtain an IP address, but can't actually log into an offline device because the network is unrecognized. I was logged in from the same laptop to the same WiFi router like three hours ago, same Ethernet jack and everything, now it's just perpetually "no network access".
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Nov 23, 2016 02:29
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Thanks friends, I put electrical tape over the crack on the laptop 
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Nov 23, 2016 03:08
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Asked this in the PC building thread, no response yet: I'm pulling the trigger on a Plex server build I'm putting together for a family friend soon. Any reason I should be wary about purchasing two of these 3TB Toshiba P300 HDDs for his bulk storage needs? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633&ignorebbr=1
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Nov 23, 2016 03:18
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Actuarial Fables posted:I found this, maybe it'll help After seeing that diagram (and looking up several like it) things make a bit more sense. My understanding of these interfaces was last used when building my current PC, which doesn't have any CPU PCIe lanes at all. (i7-920 and X58 chipset, 2009 baby) Thanks!
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Nov 23, 2016 04:06
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Teledahn posted:After seeing that diagram (and looking up several like it) things make a bit more sense. My understanding of these interfaces was last used when building my current PC, which doesn't have any CPU PCIe lanes at all. (i7-920 and X58 chipset, 2009 baby) The architecture for yours is a bit different, you're right.  We have the CPU, the northbridge chip (the x58 in the picture) for things that are fast, like graphics (historically memory as well), then the southbridge chip (ICH10/R) for things that aren't as fast, like storage, lan, sound. Sandy bridge (the generation after yours) and later cpu/motherboards have the northbridge stuff in the CPU package. The CPU PCIe lanes I talked about previously are just northbridge PCIe lanes. All in all, it's basically the same, just spread around a bit. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Nov 23, 2016 |
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Nov 23, 2016 07:36
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Is clearing the CMOS supposed to mess with the power settings in Windows? I did a bunch of shenanigans with the BIOS yesterday, and this morning I found the computer in sleep mode. Turns out it activated itself again for some reason.
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Nov 23, 2016 12:51
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Oddhair posted:I can't get my head around how Windows network list BS works. I can connect and obtain an IP address, but can't actually log into an offline device because the network is unrecognized. I was logged in from the same laptop to the same WiFi router like three hours ago, same Ethernet jack and everything, now it's just perpetually "no network access". What "offline device" are you trying to log in to? No network access means what it says, the network ain't working, so you're going to need to at least restart your router.
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Nov 23, 2016 14:23
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teagone posted:Asked this in the PC building thread, no response yet: I'm pulling the trigger on a Plex server build I'm putting together for a family friend soon. Any reason I should be wary about purchasing two of these 3TB Toshiba P300 HDDs for his bulk storage needs? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633&ignorebbr=1 Should be fine, but why not spring for a NAS drive? If there is a lot of usage on the server it may be worth it. Are you putting them in RAID1?
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Nov 23, 2016 19:31
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Should be fine, but why not spring for a NAS drive? If there is a lot of usage on the server it may be worth it. Are you putting them in RAID1? Not gonna RAID them, just going to pool them together using Stablebit DrivePool. Reason I'm not jumping on WD Reds is he has a pretty strict budget, heh. $140 for two 3TB drives seems like a really good deal.
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Nov 23, 2016 22:53
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fishmech posted:What "offline device" are you trying to log in to? No network access means what it says, the network ain't working, so you're going to need to at least restart your router. I was trying to configure a consumer wireless router as an AP to help a bar owner with WiFi woes. When I reset it and started configuring it I was easily able to log into its web interface, turn off DHCP, turn on AP mode, etc, then set a static IP address on my machine in the new IP space and login again. Hours later I was at the bar and my computer simply denied me access because the network was 'unidentified' and 'private'. I also have the registry keys in place to allow me to re-name and re-classify networks but that poo poo doesn't work either. I'm not railing against the network list policies or anything, it just makes me feel like my head is full of cotton balls when poo poo works then fails to work just a few hours later, or my well-known home or work networks become "unidentified" and therefore it blocks me from them completely. I don't feel like I should see this happen at all, and it happens plenty. Also, I want to reliably be able to connect to offline devices just by statically assigning them addresses, but half the time it works and the other half it just fails.
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Nov 23, 2016 23:55
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Berated Tham posted:Earlier today, my roommate enthusiastically hugged me while I was carrying my Lenovo T430 laptop and some papers and a can of soda. As a result, I dropped my laptop and the top cover of the laptop is now cracked. I have attached a picture. I think it's pretty groovy that I can see the light of the turned-on laptop at the point on the top cover where the crack is largest. I'm going to add my voice to the people saying you should superglue/tape it, but you could pretty easily do this on the inside and make it very hard to notice. Thinkpads are made to be serviceable and you can get to the other side of that case by removing a couple screws (they're hidden under those black tabs on your bezel) and releasing the bezel which is held in by plastic tabs. The LCD "hinges" separately from the case so you don't have to worry about removing it. If you google that model (T420 it looks like?) and "LCD replacement" I'm betting you'll be able to find a video. edit: I'm basing this off of the W530 but it looks like the T420 internally is a little different. Can anyone confirm this? Chuu fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 24, 2016 |
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Nov 24, 2016 01:38
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Should be fine, but why not spring for a NAS drive? If there is a lot of usage on the server it may be worth it. Are you putting them in RAID1? "Consumer" NAS drives are more or less the same thing as the basic drive. For example, for a long time you could basically turn WD Greens into WD Reds using the wdidle3.exe utility. They just spun down more aggressively to save power, and would aggressively retry to read corrupted sectors even if that took a while, neither of which are what you want a NAS drive to do, but it basically boiled down to firmware settings. Also, 5400 RPM NAS drives are no faster than 5400 RPM desktop drives. "Pro" NAS drive (eg WD Red Pro) are supposedly built to higher tolerances and are rated to a lower UBE failure rate (typically 1/100th that of consumer Green/Red/Blue type drives) and thus are more likely to survive a rebuild on a high-capacity or wide RAID array where you are reading a large quantity of data to rebuild the array with no redundant drives to save you in case you hit a random error. But people question whether there's actually anything different about the drives or just marketing. There's a fairly real chance that there's no difference in practice and the "consumer" drives are actually much closer to the failure rates of the pro-tier drives. This is supported by anecdotal success in rebuilding large arrays that should have failed - one guy rolling a 6 is lucky, a whole bunch of people doing it means the odds aren't what you think they are. If you believe the manufacturer's ratings, though the safe move is that for large (above 4 TB) or wide (above 4 drives) RAID arrays you move to RAID-6 or similar, where you can survive at least 1 drive failing during the rebuild, adding more redundancy as you get larger/wider. The overall rule of thumb is that RAID is for increasing speed, it decreases reliability, it's not a backup and you need to plan for that separately. You'd probably need to do a Backblaze-scale study to determine the UBE rates on Pro-vs-Red drives for sure (at least N=hundreds of units across multiple batches) and nobody's going to do that. Everyone already nitpicked the Backblaze data to death because they didn't have them floating on a bed of pillows inside an air conditioned bank vault on shock absorbers, just because they didn't like the conclusion that Seagate put out several different series of lovely drives that were failing at 10 times the rate of every other drive on the market. Their 3 TB drives were hideous deathtraps but really their 750 GB, 1 TB, 1.5 TB, and maybe 2 TB drives were also pretty loving terrible, see: the 7200.11 scandal. Out of maybe 15 drives I've owned in the last decade I've had 3 fail prematurely, all happened within a ~3 year span, and all of them were Seagate, one of the 1 TB, one of the 1.5 TB, and one of the 3 TB. Maybe just correlation, but I'm done with Seagate at this point and I haven't had another premature drive failure in 6 years. Make of it what you will, but it's a fact that other brands did much, much better even when "operated outside normal conditions". As for the actual enterprise drives... nah, waste of money. They're a little faster and more importantly tend to have better seek times, but it's not that different. If you really need faster than a HDD can deliver, you probably need something faster than 1GbE too. At that point you're best off just having some local SSD/RAID storage in your PC and having something sync it back overnight. Newegg has 750 GB MX300 SSDs for like $170 right now, not a bad deal. And most importantly enterprise drives won't proof you against that 1-in-100 drive that randomly shits itself 6 months into its lifespan, you still need a real backup solution (meaning multiple copies of the data). If you care about it the data should exist in at least three places - one onsite/online, one onsite/offline (eg burned to a disk), one offsite/offline (keep a spindle at your parent's house 250 miles away). If you're really super paranoid you do a rolling parity of your offline storage so you can recover bit rot. Build parity data for disc X, then add it as an item to be burned on disc X+1. Then you build parity data disc X+1, and add that as an item to be burned on disc X+2. That way you can recover a streak of rotten discs: as long as you still have the latest parity file and none of the discs' error rates exceed the amount of parity data you kept you can recover disc N, then use that data to recover N-1, all the way back to the data you care about. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Nov 24, 2016 |
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Nov 24, 2016 01:42
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Oddhair posted:I was trying to configure a consumer wireless router as an AP to help a bar owner with WiFi woes. When I reset it and started configuring it I was easily able to log into its web interface, turn off DHCP, turn on AP mode, etc, then set a static IP address on my machine in the new IP space and login again. Hours later I was at the bar and my computer simply denied me access because the network was 'unidentified' and 'private'. I also have the registry keys in place to allow me to re-name and re-classify networks but that poo poo doesn't work either. That has nothing to do with Windows 10. "Unidentified network" means the network is broken. "Private" just indicates that the last time you tried to connect to it, you allowed it to be a "work" or "home" network and therefore less things are firewalled on the LAN side. Your problem is that the networks are breaking, or possibly something's broken with your computer's own ethernet and/or wifi cards. You would have the same issue in any other OS, because "unidentified network" is an indicator there's something broken in the network, it's not something that breaks the etwork.
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Nov 24, 2016 02:06
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I have an old dash cam that I was wondering if I could rig up the dash cam to act as a video camera at the house. The microSD storage would fill up pretty quickly, so I'm wondering if there is something that I could plug into the microSD slot but could output to a spare hard drive i have via USB. Sort of the opposite of the SD card readers.
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Nov 25, 2016 05:25
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I have an ethernet surge protector which has a ground wire. It's very similar to this; I also have a tripplite isobar surge protector, which looks something like this:  Can I use those screws between the outlets to ground the surge protector? If not, is there a proper ground somewhere on this surge protector I can use? EDIT: What I'm specifically trying to do is prevent a surge on a powerline adapter for wrecking havok. I assume I cannot just plug a powerline adapter into my surge protector have have it work. If that is false -- please let me know. Chuu fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Nov 25, 2016 |
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Nov 25, 2016 09:26
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(I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this question, but it's the best I could find.) If I want a rechargeable AA battery with as much capacity as humanly possible and don't care one bit about any other criteria (lifetime, recharge time, and whatnot), what should I buy? If I just put the biggest mAh numbers into shopping search pages I get weird off-brand batteries whose claims I should probably not trust.
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Nov 25, 2016 10:42
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NihilCredo posted:(I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this question, but it's the best I could find.) The limitations of battery technology in that form factor mean there aren't really any higher capacity batteries. The best you can get are something like the latest Pansonic Eneloops, which have the same minimum 2500 milliamp hour capacity as other NiMH rechargeables, but have an improved formulation so that the battery loses charge while idle more slowly. With generic and older NiMH batteries, the battery would drop to like 90% of the capacity within a day of being charged up, and then slowly drain to about 50% without being used if it sits unused for a year. With the new eneloops, and a few other premium brand batteries, the battery will only drop like 1% if its unused for a month, and only to like 85% of capacity after sitting around a year. In effect, it's like the battery holds more because it doesn't self-discharge as much, but if you were using either kind of battery all at once right after charging they'd last the same.
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Nov 25, 2016 16:47
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Chuu posted:What I'm specifically trying to do is prevent a surge on a powerline adapter for wrecking havok. I assume I cannot just plug a powerline adapter into my surge protector have have it work. If that is false -- please let me know. Yeah, power line adapters won't work if plugged into surge protectors - I've tried.
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Nov 25, 2016 16:59
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Anyone know where I can find a super thin USB 3.x flash drive like this one?
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Nov 25, 2016 17:03
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I thought the extra pins in USB3.0 made it so you -have- to use the normal thick connectors?
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Nov 25, 2016 17:35
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JnnyThndrs posted:I thought the extra pins in USB3.0 made it so you -have- to use the normal thick connectors? Yeah, the extra pins are raised spring contacts rather than the flush style of the original pins. They are way too fragile to leave exposed. I think the nearest thing is drives that integrate the case and the connector: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Talent-Flash-Drive-ST3U64PICO/dp/B00DWCPDHS
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Nov 25, 2016 17:50
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The SanDisk Ultra Fit line are very nice, very compact, USB 3.0 flash drives, that are available in up to 128 GB sizes now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG2A0/ref=twister_B01BN0JHK4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 They're only about 3/4 of an inch long overall, and when they're plugged in to a proper usb 3.0 socket it only sticks out like 1/4 of an inch.
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Nov 25, 2016 18:28
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fishmech posted:The limitations of battery technology in that form factor mean there aren't really any higher capacity batteries. The best you can get are something like the latest Pansonic Eneloops, which have the same minimum 2500 milliamp hour capacity as other NiMH rechargeables, but have an improved formulation so that the battery loses charge while idle more slowly. In theory you could also use 14500-factor LiPo cells, if you use dummy cells and the voltages work out right. It should be right for anything that uses 3 cells, maybe other voltages depending on the tolerance (unlikely). I'm surprised nobody has managed to cram a little switching or buck regulator in there and make an outright LiPo AA replacement cell yet. The energy density of lithium chemistry is way better than anything prior so it's very desirable.
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Nov 25, 2016 18:42
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NihilCredo posted:(I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this question, but it's the best I could find.) My father is a professional photographer and swears by these 2700 mAh AAs in his flashes. He says they last about 25% longer than off the shelf NiMH (ie, Energizer, Duracell, etc.) AAs.
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Nov 25, 2016 21:59
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