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I once advocated for a separate battery powered tools thread but later realized, this is that thread, it was just misnamed.
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Nov 26, 2016 05:41
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BeastOfExmoor posted:All sizes or just the sizes used in things like deck screws? What do you do out of curiosity? I deal a lot with hydraulic motors and air cylinders, so they're super useful for breaking loose old rusted out set screws on bearings and shaft couplers. Air cylinder mounts are usually hex head screws that tend to lock up.
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Nov 26, 2016 05:51
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Uncle Enzo posted:Christ is there any way to avoid or shorten the rechargeable tool talk? Page after goddamn page of Makita vs dewalt Ran out of Lexapro on the long holiday weekend. Bummer.
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Nov 26, 2016 05:51
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Uncle Enzo posted:I own plenty of tools that outlived their original owners. Rechargeable tools won't. They were designed not to. Lookit you sneaking bosch in there, almost as if they were a real brand Tools: Battery Powered Toys For Adults
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Nov 26, 2016 06:13
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Uncle Enzo posted:Tools: Dewalt, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee: Just pick one Jesus Red Jesus is better than Blue Jesus!
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Nov 26, 2016 06:45
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OSU_Matthew posted:Lookit you sneaking bosch in there, almost as if they were a real brand Geez, he included Milwaukee, might as well include harbor fright or just about anything really, even Hitachi.
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Nov 26, 2016 06:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:Red Jesus is better than Blue Jesus! I prefer Yellow Jesus.
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Nov 26, 2016 06:54
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Teal Jesus. Wow, gently caress that guy. White Jesus!
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Nov 26, 2016 08:26
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Anyone know any good Cyber Monday Jesus deals?
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Nov 26, 2016 14:27
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I'm trying to decide which impact driver bit set to buy. I had my eye on this DeWalt set, but picked up this Milwaukee for much cheaper today at Home Depot. Looking at what each set includes, it appears that the DeWalt focuses on the core phillips on torx sizes (14 #2 phillips bits, in total, for instance) whereas the Milwaukee set spreads things includes a wider range of bits including hex bits. I can't recall ever seeing screws I'd want to use an impact on with with hex or weird sized torx, so my inclination is to go for the DeWalt, but I'd appreciate some opinions from some more experienced users. I ran into this recently, building a retaining wall. Driving 10 inch timber wall screws with a [chinesium] T35 bit and my 15 year old corded drill. Despite a max speed of 850 RPM, it jumped a lot. When given a choice, I always opt for square-drive (#2 Robertson) screws. Hex-head rarely fails me. I wouldn't avoid either, per se, but stocking up on Phillips or Torx seems like a not awesome use of my limited storage space. YMMV
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Nov 26, 2016 15:32
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:You can pry my corded drill from my cold, dead hands. gently caress drilling holes in metal on a battery. My corded drills had hair on their balls when all of you were still in pre-school.
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Nov 26, 2016 17:51
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Uncle Enzo posted:How much time are you guys even spending more than 20 feet from an outlet? Just buy corded tools as you need them. If your jobs are small enough that they can be handled by a plastic thing you can hold in one hand, it's a small job. Buy whatever. You won't be able to buy batteries and chargers to match eventually anyways, they're consumer goods with a calculated lifetime. I do really wish that the tool makers would sell a AV to battery slot adapter for those times you're using a tool inside or when your batteries run out. There are a lot of tools I'd consider buying if I knew I could run them endlessly near an outlet, but swap in a battery when desired.
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Nov 26, 2016 20:59
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I do really wish that the tool makers would sell a AV to battery slot adapter for those times you're using a tool inside or when your batteries run out. There are a lot of tools I'd consider buying if I knew I could run them endlessly near an outlet, but swap in a battery when desired. There are often crappy non-OEM versions of these available, but I don't run out of battery often enough to warrant burning my house down with the ryobi version.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:46
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I do really wish that the tool makers would sell a AV to battery slot adapter for those times you're using a tool inside or when your batteries run out. There are a lot of tools I'd consider buying if I knew I could run them endlessly near an outlet, but swap in a battery when desired.
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Nov 27, 2016 01:28
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Slugworth posted:It's been explained to me, probably in this thread, that such a device would be wildly expensive, due to..... electricity stuff. I forget. But yeah, apparently it's not as easy as it seems like it would be. AC to DC conversion would just be absurd. I guess that's the issue. edit Hubis posted:Knock yourself/your circuit out http://www.instructables.com/id/Cordless-Power-Tool-Conversion-18VDC-to-120240VAC/ They do, don't they. This changes everything! Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 01:39
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Slugworth posted:It's been explained to me, probably in this thread, that such a device would be wildly expensive, due to..... electricity stuff. I forget. But yeah, apparently it's not as easy as it seems like it would be. Knock yourself/your circuit out http://www.instructables.com/id/Cordless-Power-Tool-Conversion-18VDC-to-120240VAC/ But basically, you need a device capable of stepping down 120V to 18V and providing somewhere around 2-3A of current. This isn't impossible -- the computer you are reading this on probably has a very similar such circuit in it (perhaps even beefier if you're using a GaMiNg RiG) but those things are not cheap, to be sure.
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Nov 27, 2016 01:40
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Is... that guy really using a type A normal-rear end AC plug to connect the "pack" to the AC>DC supply box? At least use powerpole or something that you can't just plug into a wall because you're not paying 100% attention and realize you're actually holding a battery operated tool instead of a corded one.... yipes
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Nov 27, 2016 02:50
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Sniep posted:Is... that guy really using a type A normal-rear end AC plug to connect the "pack" to the AC>DC supply box? I wonder if anyone has ever done a "worst of instructibles" type list
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Nov 27, 2016 02:55
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I'm no electromagician, but a device to turn 120v AC line power to whatever flavor of DC is literally contained in the battery charger. Couldn't you repackage the guts from a charger into a battery form factor with a regular power cord?
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Nov 27, 2016 04:37
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Not nearly a high enough power rate. There's a reason it takes 10 minutes to discharge, but 3 hours to charge, a battery.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:04
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I do really wish that the tool makers would sell a AV to battery slot adapter for those times you're using a tool inside or when your batteries run out. There are a lot of tools I'd consider buying if I knew I could run them endlessly near an outlet, but swap in a battery when desired.
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Nov 27, 2016 10:17
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Super Waffle posted:I'm no electromagician, but a device to turn 120v AC line power to whatever flavor of DC is literally contained in the battery charger. Couldn't you repackage the guts from a charger into a battery form factor with a regular power cord? There's also the issue of safety. Plug-in tools are rated differently for things like conductor insulation and shorts than battery powered tools, for example, because you have conductors connected to a 120V source in there rather than a completely isolated device. In theory it's probably justy as safe most of the time, but if you ever got a short in your power supply you'd suddenly be in a lot more danger because it's not designed to avoid energizing metal parts, etc. Anyways, yeah. Not that holding a Li battery isn't a form of dangerous insanity in it's own way.
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Nov 27, 2016 14:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:They do, don't they. This changes everything! If I understand the ratings right, a 500W PC power supply could (in theory) step down from 120 and deliver 42A over it's 12V rails. There are probably specifics t hat make that not true (like them not being able to deliver all the current over a single split) but that's the ballpark. Actually, your average laptop power brick delivers something like 40-75W as 12VDC, which comes out to around 3-1/3 to 6-1/4 A. That's pretty much exactly what you'd want for a tool plug.
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Nov 27, 2016 14:51
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So do you feel it's better to have a massive ATX wall wart and however many metres of 18v cable, or put the transformer where the battery should be, adding weight to the tool? Either way it's a poor compromise to get around the 1 in 100 situations where 2 4or5 Ah batteries won't suffice.
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Nov 27, 2016 15:01
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Hubis posted:There's also the issue of safety. Plug-in tools are rated differently for things like conductor insulation and shorts than battery powered tools, for example, because you have conductors connected to a 120V source in there rather than a completely isolated device. In theory it's probably justy as safe most of the time, but if you ever got a short in your power supply you'd suddenly be in a lot more danger because it's not designed to avoid energizing metal parts, etc. Yeah my wife was telling me one of her friends had her husband convert their battery powered baby swing into a plug in. I told her I'd rather keep buying AA batteries rather than immolate my baby
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Nov 27, 2016 16:12
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A baby swing is much different. A lower current, lower voltages, etc. I (and I bet, most people here) have no qualms replacing a few C or D cells with a bit of dowel and a 6VDC wall wart (I 3D print the "dowel"). gently caress batteries on stationary plastic garbage. I've got three sets of P cool Christmas tree lights that are running off of converted 5VDC phone charging bricks. bigclivedotcom is an excellent go-to when it comes to DC projects like that, especially with lighting. I think he has an LED fetish. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 20:26
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Hubis posted:If I understand the ratings right, a 500W PC power supply could (in theory) step down from 120 and deliver 42A over it's 12V rails. There are probably specifics t hat make that not true (like them not being able to deliver all the current over a single split) but that's the ballpark. Fine. But how do you get it to 88mph? 
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Nov 27, 2016 21:00
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cakesmith handyman posted:So do you feel it's better to have a massive ATX wall wart and however many metres of 18v cable, or put the transformer where the battery should be, adding weight to the tool? Either way it's a poor compromise to get around the 1 in 100 situations where 2 4or5 Ah batteries won't suffice.
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Nov 27, 2016 23:01
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canyoneer posted:Yeah my wife was telling me one of her friends had her husband convert their battery powered baby swing into a plug in. A 6V 1A wall wart is a bit different to a few hundred watt power tool. (I did the same, think, gently caress buying D cells.) E:F;B
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Nov 28, 2016 03:13
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Anyone know any good Cyber Monday Jesus deals? Yeah, Home Depot has a whole bunch of "Buy a kit, and get 1 or 2 free tool" packages available for a few brands: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Featured-Products-Power-Tool-Combo-Kit-Savings-Two-Free-Power-Tools/N-5yc1vZcf31
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Nov 28, 2016 15:16
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Not nearly a high enough power rate. There's a reason it takes 10 minutes to discharge, but 3 hours to charge, a battery. Well the causation is the other way around—batteries limit the charge rate, and there’s no reason to make the charger capable of supplying more power than the batteries can accept—but the result is the same: the charger isn’t powerful enough to operate the tool.
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Nov 28, 2016 22:53
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Platystemon posted:Well the causation is the other way around—batteries limit the charge rate, and there’s no reason to make the charger capable of supplying more power than the batteries can accept—but the result is the same: the charger isn’t powerful enough to operate the tool. More expensive rapid charges that you buy separately seem to at least partially disagree with this.
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Nov 29, 2016 17:13
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Hubis posted:If I understand the ratings right, a 500W PC power supply could (in theory) step down from 120 and deliver 42A over it's 12V rails. There are probably specifics t hat make that not true (like them not being able to deliver all the current over a single split) but that's the ballpark. Err. pretty sure cordless drills can suck upto 20-30ish amps when under load (I know the number of 3-6A isn't yours, just quoting you because it was the closest post repeating it). deimos fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 19:21
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deimos posted:Err. pretty sure cordless drills can suck upto 20-30ish amps when under load (I know the number of 3-6A isn't yours, just quoting you because it was the closest post repeating it). P=IV 3A @ 120V = 360W = 20A @ 18V So yeah. I was getting the voltages backwards. You need something like a 300+ W supply. Hubis fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 03:14
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Hubis posted:P=IV Well yeah, I was mostly referring to the part about the laptop wart, should've been more specific on my post. A meanwell like the instructable uses is a good alternative.
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Nov 30, 2016 04:43
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Motronic posted:More expensive rapid charges that you buy separately seem to at least partially disagree with this. Modern lithium battery chemistry can recharge at an average rate of around 1C, meaning it can fill its nominal capacity in 1 hour. The actual charge rate is then calculated from the capacity of the battery; a 2000mAh battery charging at 1C is drawing 2 amps. The same batteries can discharge much faster -- 20C or more. So the 2000mAh battery can discharge at a maximum rate of 2*20 = 40 amps, draining the battery in 1/20 hour (3 minutes). You can't really charge any faster than the rated C value without risking battery explosion. Active cooling can help somewhat, maybe get you from 1C to 1.5C or so, but not much more than that. Batteries charge faster when they're partially charged than they do when they're nearly full, so if you break it down, you can sometimes charge the battery at 2C or more for the first 80%, then slow down to 0.3C for the last 20%. Averages out to the same time to 100%, but gets you a usable charge faster. Lots of cell phones and laptops work this way. Also, you don't have to actually fully drain the battery every time you use it. If you have a 2000mAh cell and you program the drill to cut off when it's half-empty -- so you only have 1000mAh to fill -- you can still charge it at the C rate based on the whole thing, but the effective charging time will be shortened because you're not putting in as much energy. Electric cars do this, only ever using like 75% of the pack's nominal capacity, never going below 20% or above 95% etc.
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Nov 30, 2016 09:30
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Batteries sound complicated. Where can I get a gas powered drill?
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Nov 30, 2016 15:46
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Gounads posted:Batteries sound complicated. Where can I get a gas powered drill? You jest, but https://www.stihlusa.com/products/augers-and-drills/wood-boring-drill/
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Nov 30, 2016 16:23
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Might be better suited to the CNC or Blacksmith thread but any recommendations for a $50-100 2MT drill chuck? Should I continue trolling ebay for old Jacobs and buy as many as my budget allows? Seems like I could pick up three or four in various condition and be certain of ending up with at least one decent one?
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Dec 3, 2016 21:24
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Looking for a corded worm drive circ saw to put on my panel rig. Hoping not to spend too much past $200, and dust collection is a must, which seems to be lacking in everything I'm seeing so far. Whatup with that? Any recommendations?
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Dec 4, 2016 00:32
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