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Nodoze posted:What did this go in? More details!  99 (or is it 2000?) civic si. Was going to be chumpcar (hence the b18), but then they bailed on us last year so I bought a B16 for us. There may or may not be entire sections of the car replaced with galvanized siding from a collapsed steel shed.
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Nov 28, 2016 03:42
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Go with a new one, even if you don't go OEM (though I would go OEM). You have no idea of the condition of the sensor at the junkyard, especially with the funky signalling Ford used back then. Though if you look it up on Rockauto and find out what year models it fits, if it fits much newer ones you stand a much better chance of getting a good sensor out of the latest model one it fits. fair point, ill give the best rated aftermarket a go. thanks for all your help
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Nov 28, 2016 03:59
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Expect the bulbs to last only a couple of years, at best. All of the high output bulbs I've put in last 1-2 years; I'm right at 2 years on the Phillips Xtreme Visions I have, and one of them now has to be smacked to get it to light up if it's been sitting overnight. Guessing the filament is broken and hitting it causes it to weld back together for a bit. Considering it's not a daily I'm cool with them going out in a blaze of glory in a few year's time, particularly when the previous bulbs were so dim and yellow I could barely see at night!
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Nov 28, 2016 10:44
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They still worked, but were dim as gently caress and the glass was fairly blackened.
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My cruiser runs the low beams all the time (cos for some loving reason people dont seem to see a 3 Tonne white 4wd and pull out on me if I dont use my low beams as DRL's...) and yeah, it eats the high output bulbs about every 18 months. I was running Phillips Xtreme Powers in it, but grabbed a set of Osram Night Breakers. So far im liking them, nice white light and pretty drat bright. I've got seperate high beams and I think they're just running some Narva +100 halogens in it. But when you've got 100W of HID spotlights and a 10" double row LED light bar out front, you dont really need the factory lights.
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Nov 28, 2016 11:54
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Considering it's not a daily I'm cool with them going out in a blaze of glory in a few year's time, particularly when the previous bulbs were so dim and yellow I could barely see at night! The 1-2 years I get is using it as a daily driver, and I drive (well, did drive) a shitton. Well over 30k this year alone. Much of it is during the day, but anytime it rains, I have my headlights on (since grey car + rain = not that easy to see if you're  ) - and we do get a good amount of rain here.Ferremit posted:I was running Phillips Xtreme Powers in it, but grabbed a set of Osram Night Breakers. So far im liking them, nice white light and pretty drat bright. I've got seperate high beams and I think they're just running some Narva +100 halogens in it. But when you've got 100W of HID spotlights and a 10" double row LED light bar out front, you dont really need the factory lights. You can't get the Osram Night Breakers here easily, and when you do find them, I don't think they make them for my car (which takes a 9007 dual filament bulb).  Though the Xtreme Powers (NOT the Xtreme Visions that the X-Powers replaced) seem to be considered a little brighter anyway.I have some Nokya "Arctic Yellow" 881 bulbs in my "fogs". With the factory white bulbs, they didn't really do much of anything. With the yellow bulbs, they help a bit when I'm driving on a wet blacktop road. They don't last for poo poo, but at least they're relatively cheap ($15 for a pair). My DRLs are my front turn signals though, not headlights - even using long life turn signal bulbs up front, I seem to get about a year and a half out of them. The bulbs I pulled out the first time one burned out looked original, somehow (probably weren't though)  - the top of the bulbs were totally black. And I don't really want to use LEDs up there, since it runs the bright filament as DRLs, and I'd have to use load resistors to keep the fast blink at bay. I don't think they're really meant to be running nonstop 5+ hours at a time.
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Nov 28, 2016 19:53
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Cross-posting from the General Chat thread. This weekend, I installed my Wheelskins to replace the lovely slip on cover I had (because the naked wheel is deteriorating):  I should have pulled tighter in a few spots, mostly around the seams. I'm going to see if the areas over the spokes flatten out y themselves, of not, double-sided tape will be involved. I had to do this to protect my fingers:   Kept poking myself with the damned needle, and attempting to slice fingers off with the thread until I did that. Then, feeling good about myself, and it being decent weather, fixed a problem with my driver's side power window being problematic to roll up. Hmmm. Looks like a little heat and arcing there on the lower left. And a little arcing on the other contact, too.  There's the problem (lower left contact of the black switch.):  That black stuff is all carbon. This is after cleaning and filing the contacts a bit.  That square divot was the opposite contact eroding this contact via arcing. You had to wiggle the switch just right to get it to go up. Down was fine, thanks to the express down feature using an actual relay, rather than putting full power through the switch contacts. Filed all the contacts flat, including the moving ones, filled the divot with a solder blob, and filed it flat. Lightly greased all the moving bits and reassembled. Works like a champ, now. images are being fucky, at least where I'm viewing from. If no images, galleries are: steering wheel and power window switch
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Nov 28, 2016 21:19
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I'm in the middle of replacing the shifter cables in my Focus because one of the mounting collars (at 14 years old) was brittle as gently caress and broke when I pulled the transmission out to replace my clutch. Tried zip-tying the cable into place but I couldn't get the orientation just right, I either couldn't get it into second gear or have to really jam the stick hard to the right and back to hit reverse. What a loving miserable job...had to pull the entire center console (which also required removing the passenger seat) and half of the box that the AC and heater cores live in just to get access to the carpet and insulation over where the cables pass into the exhaust tunnel and from there to the engine bay. Then the nuts holding the rubber plate between the cabin and exterior are mounted in a manner where I can get maybe four teeth on my 72 tooth ratchet to turn, and of course the studs they mount to are an inch longer than necessary because why wouldn't you use 2" studs where half inch would be overkill? Now I understand why most people leave this up to the dealer 
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Dec 1, 2016 18:17
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Darchangel posted:Cross-posting from the General Chat thread. That looks like a similar to the one that was in my f-150, and after loving with it enough times i just said gently caress it and ordered one out of china for like $13 and never touched it again.
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Dec 1, 2016 19:45
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Powershift posted:That looks like a similar to the one that was in my f-150, and after loving with it enough times i just said gently caress it and ordered one out of china for like $13 and never touched it again. Looks like about $20-30 for mine, which looks to be the same as Expedition and 4-door F-150s of the same year. Probably should just buy a spare at that price point.
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Dec 2, 2016 23:15
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Darchangel posted:Looks like about $20-30 for mine, which looks to be the same as Expedition and 4-door F-150s of the same year. this is the one i stuck in my truck https://www.amazon.com/Master-Windo...r+window+switch It didn't look or feel very solid, but it worked well enough for the time yearish i had it in there before i sold it.
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Dec 2, 2016 23:33
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In the past few months, I sheared one of the bolts holding the diff in on my E46 M3. She was a big son of a bitch and torqued to about 150ft lb.  Because Im an idiot I figured id let it soak in pb blaster for a few days, left hand drill it, and try an easy out.  Because my bmw hates me this clearly failed. Just finished grinding the easy out out with a carbide bur and a die grinder last night. Wasnt as hard as I thouhgt it would be. But I need to figure out how to fixture the diff in my drill press or a mill at work so I can drill the hole out and get an EZ-LOK in there. getting the position accurate and the angle parallel to the original is important because of how long the loving bolt is.
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Dec 2, 2016 23:48
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Cleaned up caliper slide pins on both front wheels. Both of them had seized up so I need to get some grease and new boots/dustcaps.
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Dec 3, 2016 03:02
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Got a strange clunk under braking and hitting a bump on my G35 so I threw it up on jacks to have a look. I couldn't find anything out of place like the sway bar links or the transverse link bushings that like to fail all the time, so I tried tightening down the upper control arms for now. It was also at that point that I realized that my wheel rotation was all hosed up. The rear 350z wheels that I'm using for my winter set are an inch wider (though I put on the same size tires all around) and I had one wide wheel up front on one side, and it was in the rear on the other. Fixed that so the track width isn't weird (not sure the offset is much different and that it'll really matter, but still). TBD if it was productive whatsoever.
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Dec 3, 2016 06:43
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Spent all drat day trying to dry out the carpets in temperatures around freezeing. I think I know where the leak is coming from. Could be that water gets in below the scuttle panel, then drips into the fresh air intake (stupid design) but doesn't go down the airway. Instead I think the water soaks through the gasket and gets in on the cabin part of the firewall close to the A pillar. It fits location wise, but I do wonder how it can get so wet from that. The only explaination is that it's been accumulating for months and symstoms started showing once the sound deadening / felt mats under the floor lining were saturated (god they hold so much water). So now I'm constructing some poo poo to try to prevent further leaks. I really hope this is the solution because this is really loving boring to deal with.
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Dec 3, 2016 22:10
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Yesterday I replaced the noisy belt tensioner and changed the oil. I put off digging out my snow tires until later this week because I'm lazy, telling myself "I can wait a few more days, no big deal." Today:  
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Dec 5, 2016 00:08
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I installed a hatch privacy cover. It works pretty well.
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Dec 5, 2016 05:03
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I soldered and heat shrinked the wiring harness for my new stereo unit... Is it necessary/useful to electric tape the heat shrink tubes to avoid electrical noise from adjacent wires or no?
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Dec 5, 2016 17:45
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I'll usually tape and/or ziptie them together in a bundle to keep things slightly neater. The heatshrink itself is sufficient insulation between wires as long as your heatshrink isn't, say, ripped open over a jagged bit of wire 
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Dec 5, 2016 18:08
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Razzled posted:I soldered and heat shrinked the wiring harness for my new stereo unit... Is it necessary/useful to electric tape the heat shrink tubes to avoid electrical noise from adjacent wires or no? Tape isn't going to do poo poo for electrical noise. Proper, good grounds will. If you do wind up with alternator whine, run the ground from the stereo directly to the closest piece of metal that's attached to the car (dash brace, etc). If that doesn't fix it, get a noise filter.
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Dec 6, 2016 13:31
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Ugh, my second attempt to do my steering boots has ended in failure. First time around my wrenches would not wranch the shaft and bolts and now going back with better tools I find my hammer is too small to remove the ball joint via the conventional method so I've just decided to pony up and get a puller, it should be here on Sunday. Really running out of time to get it through inspection now though.
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Dec 9, 2016 06:30
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I finally got an wheel alignment after replacing my springs and shocks this summer. Both tie rods were rusted so I had to replace those as well to do the alignment. I then went out in the snow to play! 
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Dec 13, 2016 21:54
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Cross-posting from the chat thread: my ride decided two weeks without major work was too long.  Ball joint popped out of the spindle somehow. Could have been worse - I'd just pulled out of work and wasn't even up to 20 on a slushy side street. Only permanent damage was the halfshaft (pulled apart at the CV joint) and fender sheet metal.
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Dec 14, 2016 04:08
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Not today but this week anyway, sold my celica with no interior behind the front seats for $850.... I bought it for $500 so whoooo
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Dec 14, 2016 04:24
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Activated winter mode on both cars this past weekend. Hopefully won't have to drive the Prelude through any lovely weather but the car came with free winter wheels and tires so might as well use them.  
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Dec 14, 2016 14:22
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Replaced my tie rod ends tonight. Its nice not having to hold the steering wheel 5 degrees to the left to go straight anymore.
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Dec 23, 2016 06:21
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Same, but it was my strut and my wheel was to the right. Isn't it fun being run into while doing nothing wrong and ending up fixing your own drat car?
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Dec 24, 2016 00:56
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kastein posted:Same, but it was my strut and my wheel was to the right. Isn't it fun being run into while doing nothing wrong and ending up fixing your own drat car? Why in gods name would you do that? If the other driver is at fault, it's their insurance that needs to pay... whether it's fix or pay-out, if you are not at fault, they cannot make you get rid of your car, they can only give you money to fix it (even if "totaled," if you're not at fault, payout is negotiable... certainly to the point that you don't have to drive around with a mis-matched door and steering hosed up).
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Dec 24, 2016 01:07
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EVERYWHERE 
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It's a $500 beater car. He was driving a $500 beater car too, and by general appearance I'm pretty sure he's just as broke as I was a few years ago. He ran a stop sign like an idiot, something I did MANY times when I was younger, admittedly with far more caution. Minor T-bone, hosed up marker lamp, headlamp, fender, strut, knocked a wheel weight off my wheel, wrecked my drivers door, and tweaked the A pillar just a tiny bit (door works alright now that I put a new one on it.) The strut was blown anyways and I had already bought new ones. This lit a fire under my rear end to get them installed. Insurance would total my car instantly if they saw the damage, because they behave as if every car needs new CAPA certified panels and a professional paintjob and my car KBBs at like $2k. I am going to be done fixing it for under $200 using all factory painted panels from the junkyard. I really, really, really do not want to deal with having insurance total my DD, then having to either deal with buyback and a salvage inspection to get it back on the road, or find a new one on CL, deal with idiot CL sellers, buy it, insure it, register it, and drag yet another crapcan out of maintenance debt. I just did that to this one four months ago. It's not worth my time and effort, especially in the dead of winter with no garage. So we have agreed that he will reimburse me for any and all parts required to fix my shitbox back to the condition it was in before the accident and I won't report it unless he doesn't hold up his end of the deal. I do not enjoy wrangling with insurance agents and playing phone tag. Or going through salvage inspections with the state police. gently caress all that noise. Also, I'm not a litigious shitlord especially when it fucks over someone else's life for a stupid mistake, call it karma. I'd rather give him a chance to make it right without dinging up his driving record. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Dec 24, 2016 |
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Dec 24, 2016 01:23
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 Put some new rubber and junkyard wheels on the grocery getter. 27x8.5r14 is significantly bigger than factory 195/70r14 size, but these are the tires this car should have came with, imo. Best thing I've done to it.
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Dec 24, 2016 03:08
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eighty-four merc posted:
Holy poo poo, I love everything about this. What's up with the suspension in the rear?
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Dec 24, 2016 04:17
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo, I love everything about this. These wagons had self-leveling hydraulic rear suspension and mine is pretty tired. I think if I resealed the valve it'd go a long way but my plan is to just replace the hydraulic stuff with some bilsteins because everything associated with self leveling costs stupid money, including engines themselves because the pump is driven off engine and mounted to front of head. e: didn't realize it but I think the accidental dutch angle I took photo at in addition to the rear wheel opening being shorter made this thing look like a prerunner or something. I am just on my phone here but I eyeballed image rotation to get hubs closer to being on same axis. Still squats in back but not as exaggerated as previous photo would have you believe. 
eighty-four merc fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Dec 24, 2016 |
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Dec 24, 2016 05:03
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I was gonna just guess tired suspension. Most of my cars have eventually wound up looking like they were dragging their rear end, and my current one is starting to look that way too. Got my car 1 step closer to being street legal for 2017. Finally got a drat payment arrangement setup to pay off my tolls, made a down payment that made me a bit queasy (more than my car payment and minimum payment on all of my credit cards, combined), and they've released my registration from toll-pound. At the moment I'm legal until the end of the year; I can finally renew the drat thing. lovely part is... since they had put a block on my registration, even though they've now released the block, I can't do it online or by mail. It has to be done in person.  I'll probably have to ride dirty for a week into the new year since I just forked out $300 to get the registration unblocked, but usually the police won't stop you for a week (we have a windshield sticker that makes it very, very obvious what month/year your registration expires from a good distance). Crossing my fingers on that one.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Dec 24, 2016 |
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Dec 24, 2016 07:35
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Bought a 3 ton jack and did my brake pads. Rears were almost on the backing plate. Fronts were fine but figured it was worth doing them all. Took the time to really clean the wheels too. Came up gooooood. https://imgur.com/a/wrub5
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Dec 24, 2016 11:37
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eighty-four merc posted:
I love your car man
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Dec 24, 2016 15:30
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My winter tradition of changing oil - synthetic adds up when you need to feed it 7.1 quarts. 
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Dec 26, 2016 15:29
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I changed a bunch of fluids in my 2012 Tundra. Drained and filled the radiator with zerex Asian formula, pretty easy job. Drained and filled the front differential, rear differential and transfer case with amsoil severe gear 75w-90. Used my mityvac to suck out the power steering reservoir a few times and refilled with some leftover ATF. And finally did a cooler line exchange of the transmission fluid using amsoil synthetic low viscosity ATF. This is the one I am a little unsure about. The transmission had a real firm(too firm, like the line pressure was way high) shift feel when I got it at 64k. I dropped the fluid in the pan twice and refilled with valvoline max life synthetic atf. This changed about half of the fluid and softened out the shifting big time. It ran like that for 42k with no problems, but was due for a change. Now it shifts really soft. I can't feel it in the seat of my pants. It's not slipping, just feels like a Buick. It firms up a little at full throttle but nowhere near what it used to be. Going to leave it in for a while and see how it does. Just need to do the plugs and serpentine belt and the 100k service is complete. Now to clean up my garage floor.
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Dec 28, 2016 00:58
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eighty-four merc posted:
I love it. Needs a lift, though.
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Dec 28, 2016 20:37
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Darchangel posted:I love it. Needs the wheels tucking though. 
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Dec 28, 2016 22:06
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Did a radiator swap on a 2004 WJ (daughter's Jeep.) Rubber transmission cooler lines were basically glued on so I sliced them off and replaced with 3/8" hose. Both of these are about 8 inches in length or so and go on barbed fittings. I reused the factory spring clamps. Yeah, it is basically fuel injection rated hose. Of course when I did this two weeks ago it was 20 degrees with snow on the ground, and well after awhile you get cranky and want to be done. Fast forward to yesterday and she says the Jeep is shifting funny from a stop. Of course my heart sinks thinking I screwed it up. Turns out all four ends have minor drips, it dropped a qt. Grabbed the ears of the spring clamps and I could rotate them by hand. Not good of course. Does anyone have a suggestion for hose clamp replacements that are a step above Autozone worm styles?
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Dec 29, 2016 04:35
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Did a radiator swap on a 2004 WJ (daughter's Jeep.) Rubber transmission cooler lines were basically glued on so I sliced them off and replaced with 3/8" hose. Both of these are about 8 inches in length or so and go on barbed fittings. I reused the factory spring clamps. Yeah, it is basically fuel injection rated hose. Autozone worm clamps work fine, though.
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Dec 29, 2016 05:05
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