stupid puma posted:

Anyone with renovation experience where there was pre existing lead paint? We hired a contractor to do the renovation work on our kitchen as I just don't have the time but we're doing the demo ourselves. It's a significant project and we'll be taking out walls. I used some 3M tests and it looks like we have lead paint under a couple layers of newer stuff (house was built in '57). I've read about how to handle the demo (n100 respirators, plastic over exits, hepa filter in the shop vac, wetting down surfaces before demo, plastic on the floor etc.). Does it sound like I have a good handle on this or should I leave it to the pros? Seems like they wouldn't be doing much different than I would but I wonder how worried I should be, especially with a toddler around.

couldcareless posted:

I think our washing machine bit the dust today. It's an old top loading GE washer. It fills, it agitates and spins, but it does not drain. I get a humming noise instead. I assume it was a clogged drain or pump, but I just finished dis-assembling them and didn't find any obstructions. Open to any ideas

Safety Dance posted:

If I were you, I'd be tempted to throw a new pump in it. What is the exact model? If you can figure out what kind of voltage the pump should be getting, you could remove it and test it in vitro.

stupid puma posted:

Anyone with renovation experience where there was pre existing lead paint? We hired a contractor to do the renovation work on our kitchen as I just don't have the time but we're doing the demo ourselves. It's a significant project and we'll be taking out walls. I used some 3M tests and it looks like we have lead paint under a couple layers of newer stuff (house was built in '57). I've read about how to handle the demo (n100 respirators, plastic over exits, hepa filter in the shop vac, wetting down surfaces before demo, plastic on the floor etc.). Does it sound like I have a good handle on this or should I leave it to the pros? Seems like they wouldn't be doing much different than I would but I wonder how worried I should be, especially with a toddler around.

OSU_Matthew posted:

Eh, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just wear a respirator, and don't eat the paint chips. If you're really worried cover over your air intake vents. You're not sanding and grinding the paint off, so it shouldn't be airborne.

Lead is mostly a hazard to developing children, ingesting it can cause malformations of the amygdala. I'd be more worried about lead in your water, than anything stable and entombed from demolition, and even then lead solder and pipes should have a protective coating unless you're in a place like Flint or Sebring and the municipal water supply hosed up the ph balance.

I'd honestly be more worried about stuff like fiberglass insulation.

stupid puma posted:

Anyone with renovation experience where there was pre existing lead paint? We hired a contractor to do the renovation work on our kitchen as I just don't have the time but we're doing the demo ourselves. It's a significant project and we'll be taking out walls. I used some 3M tests and it looks like we have lead paint under a couple layers of newer stuff (house was built in '57). I've read about how to handle the demo (n100 respirators, plastic over exits, hepa filter in the shop vac, wetting down surfaces before demo, plastic on the floor etc.). Does it sound like I have a good handle on this or should I leave it to the pros? Seems like they wouldn't be doing much different than I would but I wonder how worried I should be, especially with a toddler around.

snickles posted:

I've got a light fixture in the bathroom that is rated for 60 watt bulbs, but (1) doesn't fit a 60 watt bulb well and (2) doesn't give off nearly enough light with a 60 watt bulb. The LED bulbs I've come across are just fractionally larger and so won't fit in the enclosure. Is there anything such as a slim or narrow LED bulb? I've found some of the flat ones by phillips, but the diameter of the long edge seems to be the same as a regular bulb. The appearance of the bulb doesn't really matter as long as it would be slightly narrower than a regular incandescent. Thanks!

kid sinister posted:

Try Sylvania micro mini CFLs. They won't be as efficient as LEDs, but they sure are tiny. Lowes sells them.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

So I'm about to pull the trigger and by my first house. It's pretty much move in ready, which is good since I don't have the to work on it at the moment. The only think I want to do is install a light fixture in the living room since it's an older house and there's no light in there. I'm really comfortable doing the work myself, but can someone recommend a big book that is just full of how to fix things in the home? Like I figure I can jump off an outlet for power but I'm not sure how, and all that stuff. I'd like to get a tome that I can just leaf through and learn about home stuff.

Then the next thing is to figure out codes, I suppose there's a book I can get for that too right? I like in NJ, but I guess I need to look at the city codes and stuff right?

HEY NONG MAN posted:

Wait. You think you're going to buy a house and you're talking about replacing a lighting fixture first thing? Maybe pump the brakes.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I'm not sure why "hey it'd be nice to have a ceiling light in the living room" is such an unreasonable complaint.

The Dave posted:

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I'm not sure why "hey it'd be nice to have a ceiling light in the living room" is such an unreasonable complaint. A lot of the houses around here are older and don't have them. I've installed plenty of lighting fixtures before, just never had to actually wire, and I'd like to learn how to do my own work. Why is this is a problem?

The home inspection is in a couple days, so if there's any super huge issues of course I'll pump the breaks on the house, but why shouldn't I learn how to do some basic wiring and other stuff? I've worked in construction for years doing carpentry work, so I'm comfortable doing the work, but I'd like to just boost my knowledge of wiring, plumbing, etc.

OSU_Matthew posted:

Nah, you're good... If you've got a basic knowledge of construction and tools, you'll be fine adding a light fixture.

What you want is the black and decker guide to home wiring. It is the bible of all things 120v AC electrical, with lots of diagrams, pictures, and simple explanations so you can understand everything.

Fishing wire is a bitch, but pick up some fish sticks from harbor freight, a fish tape, a good multimeter, a good pair of wire stripper pliers, the black and decker electrical book, and a wire sheathing stripper, electrical tape, a good 18v cordless drill, 12-3 gauge romex, fan rated joist bracket electrical box, and appropriate drill bits, and it's definitely doable. I'd highly recommend installing a fan in lieu of a light. If you have basement access to the room, it's easier top run the wiring straight up from there, terminate in a switch box on the wall, and then cut out the corner of the ceiling and run it into the ceiling joists. Get a 4" hole saw (this is where you especially want a good 18v drill) and cut out a hole in the center of the room. Install the bracket, wire it in, easy.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

Thanks for the advice. I've wired thousands of data runs all over NYC and NJ, so I'm pretty handy with a fish tape, and I have all those tools already, so I think I'm good to go. The plan was always for a fan as well. The room has basement access too. I suppose this involves like tapping off a run to an outlet in the same room, right?

When I'm up in the ceiling, the plan would be approach it from where I can get between the joist all the way so I don't have to drill a bunch of holes through them.

snickles posted:

I've got a light fixture in the bathroom that is rated for 60 watt bulbs, but (1) doesn't fit a 60 watt bulb well and (2) doesn't give off nearly enough light with a 60 watt bulb. The LED bulbs I've come across are just fractionally larger and so won't fit in the enclosure. Is there anything such as a slim or narrow LED bulb? I've found some of the flat ones by phillips, but the diameter of the long edge seems to be the same as a regular bulb. The appearance of the bulb doesn't really matter as long as it would be slightly narrower than a regular incandescent. Thanks!

OSU_Matthew posted:

Oh, yeah, you definitely shouldn't have a problem then. Just make sure you at the very least read through the book and understand everything before you start, and you'll be fine. You can even get that book at the local library in a lot of cases, or a previous edition from Abe or Thriftbooks for super cheap.

Most modern fans only draw in the neighborhood of half an amp or ~65 watts on high. Essentially the power of an old incandescent lightbulb. Assuming you have a modern electrical system with new distribution panel and 100-200 amp service, tapping off an outlet shouldn't hurt anything, assuming most outlets are on a 15-20 amp circuit. Definitely don't assume anything though, and figure out what all is on the circuit first and make sure it's not already overloaded with a ton of other stuff, etc etc etc. Worst case, adding a new circuit to a distribution panel isn't very difficult at all, you just need to understand exactly what's going on, where the hazards are, how to shut down power to the circuit/panel, etc. I'd start with smaller projects, like replacing kitchen/bathroom outlets with GFCI's, and work up from there before tackling larger stuff like that, though it sounds like you probably already have a lot of experience already.

Also, be sure to check in with the electrical thread, there's several goons there that are actually electricians and can give you much better advice than I can. I believe Kid Sinister, Baby Eating Psychopath just off the top of my head, and Motronic used to be a fire marshall. Lots of great references there.

This Popular Mechanics Complete Guide to Home Repair is also an excellent reference book to have on hand for everything in the house--highly recommend checking it out as well.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I'm really comfortable doing the work myself, but can someone recommend a big book that is just full of how to fix things in the home?

JVNO posted:

Hey folks,

I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my baseboard radiator. So during my troubleshooting I found stuff about bleeding the excess air to improve pressure and water flow.

Taking apart the front plate, I found this:



The big white knob up front is the main heater setting- off, on, increase flow, etc. But I'm not sure what the contraption in behind is?

It looks like an air release valve, but no hissing or water drainage occurs when I turn the pieces at the top (either all the way clockwise, or all the way counter clockwise).

There's also one in my bedroom, on the opposite side of the unit where the pipe exits the apartment.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

Thanks for the tips. The house has new 200amp service. It's strange since it's a small cape cod that doesn't need more than 100amp, but it's there and the breaker/wiring in the whole house is only 5 years old. The upstairs is a loft, like a finished bonus room with two rooms (a small bedroom and aloft, but it has open attic storage in the eaves of the room between the walls and the roof itself.

2) Extractor over the kitchen stove. There's space for an over stove microwave, and I know they make them with vents, but do they make them with vents that go outside? Also how hard is it to install the vent, does it have to go to the roof or can I just punch a hole in the wall run it right out there. The outside is wood siding, so it's pretty easy for me to hack a whole on, but alternatively, going straight is just the attic space so I have room to play around up there.
3) Bathroom vent, same as number 2

Jerk McJerkface posted:

Thanks for the tips. The house has new 200amp service. It's strange since it's a small cape cod that doesn't need more than 100amp, but it's there and the breaker/wiring in the whole house is
2) Extractor over the kitchen stove. There's space for an over stove microwave, and I know they make them with vents, but do they make them with vents that go outside? Also how hard is it to install the vent, does it have to go to the roof or can I just punch a hole in the wall run it right out there. The outside is wood siding, so it's pretty easy for me to hack a whole on, but alternatively, going straight is just the attic space so I have room to play around up there.

4) Wall outlet for TV in the middle of living room wall. I'd like to run HDMI/Speaker/Outlet to a wall plate in the living room. I probably can't have them both in the same old works box right? I like to have an A/V rack in the basement and then just run HDMI up to the TV and audio to all the speaker jacks.

emocrat posted:

2) I cant speak to how it was to install, but my house has an over the stove microwave that vents out the side wall of the house. My understanding is most units are recirc though. so make sure you buy one that can be configured for external venting.

4) http://www.homedepot.com/p/PowerBridge-In-Wall-Dual-Power-and-Cable-Management-Kit-for-Wall-Mounted-HDTV-TWO-CK/204820258 that what you want? theres a bajalion configurations.

Hashtag Banterzone posted:

X-Posting from the Home thread

I'm redoing my backyard. I want to do river rock along the narrow strip to the left of the walkway and mulch in the back along the garage. Where should my border be?

Jerk McJerkface posted:

For the TV, I want to pull a real outlet in a recessed box, and then put ethernet/hdmi/audio/usb into a recessed box as well. I figure I can't have them all in the same box, so I"ll do one on the insides of two adjacent studs.

H110Hawk posted:

You need a 2-gang box like this: http://www.av-express.com/AV-Catalog/Recessed-TV-Boxes/Arlington-TVBS505-2Gang-Steel-Recessed-TV-Box-White

It should be rated for line voltage on one side and LV on the other. Then you install your outlet in one side, and a keystone faceplate in the other with your HDMI cables or headphone jacks or whatever. Make sure whatever you buy is UL Listed for your application, otherwise the electricians will burn your house down.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

That's perfect, it's even old works, so it's even easier to install. Thanks!

You mean look for UL listed HDMI cables, and the keystones, and all that right?

Cheesus posted:

We're replacing a 30 year old stove. The current one is basically "flat" with the knobs at the front. The new one will have a raised "rear" panel.

The problem is that the counter behind the stove. Because it was "flat" and a little shallow, there's a 3" piece of countertop (Silestone). Luckily it's just a single piece that runs the length of the stove opening, but it is glued/adhesive down to the adjoining cabinets.

Any tips on removing it? While it's a separate section, I don't want to damage the surrounding counters when removing it.

Safety Dance posted:

Yellow line is my pick.