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The cabinets were trying to take out the ugly lighting and missed.
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Nov 27, 2016 17:01
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Motronic posted:The cabinets were trying to take out the ugly lighting and missed. The cabinets, distraught over the ugly lights and cheap glass-mat backsplash that is impossible to clean, committed suicide.
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Nov 27, 2016 17:56
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Motronic posted:The cabinets were trying to take out the ugly lighting and missed. At first look, I thought the lights had been hit.
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Nov 27, 2016 17:59
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Javid posted:
Structural engineer checking in: that thing if the 4x12s extend into the house's framing are rock solid. The end of the cantilever will have the lowest stresses so that repair won't be an issue, imo. The split in the wood by the way also shouldn't be too big a deal because it is close to the neutral axis so stresses won't be high at that point. As long as everything is held together well (and it appears it is) you should not see issues with the kind of minimal load you could put there.
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Nov 27, 2016 18:05
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`Nemesis posted:A few more... Reminds me of our first house, came home from work one day to find the large (5'x3' ish) bathroom mirror laying in pieces on the floor. The builder had hung the mirror with the usual mirror spring clips, but had used the absolutely tiniest drywall anchors you can get to mount the clips. I could never figure out how it managed to last the year or so it did, I would have though those useless anchors would have fallen out the instant they hung the mirror.
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Nov 28, 2016 08:18
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Blue Footed Booby posted:I hadn't noticed the tanks. They cause this to, imo, wrap back around. This dude's a free spirit who knows what he likes. Not to say he isn't a cock, but I'm self-aware enough to realize most of the contempt I feel is jealousy. Envy. What you feel is envy. Anyway, due to the nature of permit and building/planning regulations, there's usually a strong emphasis on equal treatment. If you make exceptions for one, that does actually mean you've set municipal presedence for general exeptions. This is one of the reasons you never, ever, ever gently caress around with building stuff without the proper permits. Municipal authority will tear your poo poo all the way down unless you do everything properly, which brings me to the next point: Doing it properly (as in within the rules) requires a certain amount of knowledge about the rules. Trying to circumvent the rules requires a lawer, probably one that specialized in that exact thing, and for planning and regulations the answer would still be "lol gently caress no" to 90% of cases. As sad as I am to see this kind of waste, dude got what was coming to him. It was entirely predictable from the start to any legal professional who's even heard of permits.
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Nov 28, 2016 10:22
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Are the inventors of dryer vents mentally disabled? I am trying to fix ours and everything about it is a giant gently caress you to common sense. Nothing attaches easily, the metal is sharp and likes to cut you and whoever installed everything else around the dryer is a loving sadist so there is no room to actually work or attach anything.
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Nov 29, 2016 12:04
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Sylink posted:Are the inventors of dryer vents mentally disabled? I am trying to fix ours and everything about it is a giant gently caress you to common sense. Nothing attaches easily, the metal is sharp and likes to cut you and whoever installed everything else around the dryer is a loving sadist so there is no room to actually work or attach anything. I completely agree, for something that needs to be regularly accessed and cleaned, vents and connections are a piss poor design, not very well thought out at all. But, on the other hand, using better easy access couplings or adding cleanout traps and a sturdier design would probably add fifteen bucks to a two hundred thousand dollar house, and that kind of money should be better spent on something more visible, like granite countertops than something that could potentially be responsible for a house fire. E: 20$... And I am buying one now, thanks for getting me to think about this! Makes me wonder what other kind of banal stuff with cheap and easy solutions that I'm missing around the house... Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 13:22 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 13:11
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we line dry everything no I'm not jealous those grapes were sour anyway
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Nov 29, 2016 13:31
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Sylink posted:Are the inventors of dryer vents mentally disabled? I am trying to fix ours and everything about it is a giant gently caress you to common sense. Nothing attaches easily, the metal is sharp and likes to cut you and whoever installed everything else around the dryer is a loving sadist so there is no room to actually work or attach anything. What's the matter? Is it clogged?
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Nov 29, 2016 16:13
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Anything made out of corrugated stamped foil-gage sheet metal that needs to be accessed for regular maintenance is a bad time
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Nov 29, 2016 16:40
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I have read quite a lot about dryer vents in this thread but I have never quite understood what they are for. Googling also leads me to pages that seem to omit this info as obvious. Over in this part of Europe, dryers just take in air from the back and spit out air at the front (or vice versa) and that's all there is to it. Never seen one that needs actual ductwork. What is the ducting for? Are those dryers gas heated to need venting? Or something else?
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Nov 29, 2016 18:47
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Here, the hot damp dryer air is ducted out of the home through vents, because who wants hot damp air pumped back into their living space?
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Nov 29, 2016 18:50
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EssOEss posted:I have read quite a lot about dryer vents in this thread but I have never quite understood what they are for. Googling also leads me to pages that seem to omit this info as obvious. Over in this part of Europe, dryers just take in air from the back and spit out air at the front (or vice versa) and that's all there is to it. Never seen one that needs actual ductwork. You use heat pump dryers that re-condense the moisture removed from the contents and run it down the drain. Efficient, and it doesn't need a vent, but slow (and relatively expensive). In the US, we almost always use a simple heat source (either natural gas or electric resistance), and pipe the hot, moist air out the house. OSU_Matthew posted:But, on the other hand, using better easy access couplings or adding cleanout traps and a sturdier design would probably add fifteen bucks to a two hundred thousand dollar house, and that kind of money should be better spent on something more visible, like granite countertops than something that could potentially be responsible for a house fire. Those are forbidden by code because if they aren't cleaned regularly, they are an even bigger fire hazard.
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Nov 29, 2016 18:55
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Zhentar posted:You use heat pump dryers that re-condense the moisture removed from the contents and run it down the drain. Efficient, and it doesn't need a vent, but slow (and relatively expensive). In the US, we almost always use a simple heat source (either natural gas or electric resistance), and pipe the hot, moist air out the house. We call those condenser dryers, yes they're more expensive but a good one isn't slower than a vented dryer, plus you get to benefit from all that heat you generated. Vented dryers are cheaper and more common in the UK, also crap.
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Nov 29, 2016 19:14
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It would be nice to have some kind of selectability. Right now when it's getting cold and generally dry out I'd love to have the heat and at least some of the humidity returned in to my house. In the summer however I want that poo poo outside ASAP. A lot of the US would probably agree with me.
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Nov 29, 2016 19:45
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Well I suppose you could just disconnect the dryer hose from the vent and point it wherever you want the heat and humidity. 
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Nov 29, 2016 19:50
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Safety Dance posted:Here, the hot damp dryer air is ducted out of the home through vents, because who wants hot damp air pumped back into their living space? In my last house it was ducted into the garage (instead of 4 feet farther out of the side of the house into the side yard). I could turn it into a sauna by running a load of laundry and just keeping the garage door down! It's a feature!
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Nov 29, 2016 19:53
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wolrah posted:It would be nice to have some kind of selectability. This is a pro idea. But my laundry room would be moist (lol) and the rest of the house dry.
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Nov 29, 2016 19:54
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My building has central heating and we have no control over it which means i'm woken up at 4am every morning by intense heat. It's winter but we have to sleep with the windows wide open. It means it's freezing when we go to bed but otherwise it gets too hot. The radiators have little knobs on them but turning them seems to do nothing, and the one in our bedroom doesn't turn at all.
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Nov 29, 2016 19:55
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despite the lint filter, dryer output still contains lots of lint, which is hazardous particulate matter that you should not be breathing. It also coats everything. I expect euro dryers have additional filters, adding yet more to the cost.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:01
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Baronjutter posted:My building has central heating and we have no control over it which means i'm woken up at 4am every morning by intense heat. It's winter but we have to sleep with the windows wide open. It means it's freezing when we go to bed but otherwise it gets too hot. The radiators have little knobs on them but turning them seems to do nothing, and the one in our bedroom doesn't turn at all. Build a radiator cover out of thermax and then vent it with a thermostatically controlled fan. Bam, fixed.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:22
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Bad dryers are the worst. I used to have a vent that went straight up 8 feet before turning a corner to the outside world and it was filled to the gills with old sweater fuzz
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Nov 29, 2016 20:29
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Burt Sexual posted:This is a pro idea. But my laundry room would be moist (lol) and the rest of the house dry. My HVAC system is in my laundry room, so if the indoor output (after appropriate filtration) was just connected in to the main air handler it'd be pretty trivial to make it run the fan while the dryer was running. Bonus side effect of making my entire house smell like dryer sheets.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:31
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And speaking of horrible hack space conditioning fixes, I forgot to ever share this here: This was taken at, uh..., a friend's house. The big bright ball of light on the ceiling is a 60W light bulb. The much smaller, dimmer ball of light by the ladder is a 100W bulb. It's screwed into a E26 Y adapter, with a 75w bulb on the other socket; the Y adapter is screwed into an E26 to NEMA 1 plug adapter, which is in turn plugged into the extension cord hanging off of the ladder and plugged into a ceiling outlet. Plugged into the other socket of the same outlet is the inline blower hanging from the ceiling. And why is the 100W light bulb so dim? Because the two sockets are wired in series. The two light bulbs are serving as a ~0.7 ohm resistor to reduce the speed of the inline blower. That turned out to be a little bit too much, so a second E26 Y adapter was daisy chained into the first, and third bulb was added to the mix.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:48
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Baronjutter posted:My building has central heating and we have no control over it which means i'm woken up at 4am every morning by intense heat. It's winter but we have to sleep with the windows wide open. It means it's freezing when we go to bed but otherwise it gets too hot. The radiators have little knobs on them but turning them seems to do nothing, and the one in our bedroom doesn't turn at all.  That's what most UK ones look like (the older ones at least). If you're lucky you can use them for temperature control, but mostly they do nothing unless you screw them down hard, which turns the radiator off. e: the one on the right is a valve, the one on the left is just a cover. Wolfsbane fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 21:05
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HardDiskD posted:
Yep, going to have to go with awesome. Zillow claims it's a 2-bed, 2.5-bath house with nearly 2000 sq. ft., on 2.1 acres. I hope there's roof access so you can walk the parapets. Dillbag posted:Just a half-dozen minivans on a monorail track driving through your neighbour's apartment, built to the most stringent second-world noise and safety standards, every 5-10 minutes. Sounds great. I'm sure after the first couple weeks you'd hardly notice it any more. Can't be any worse than a cheap apartment in NY City next to the El tracks.
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Nov 29, 2016 21:20
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Wolfsbane posted:Like this? Man I wish the ones in my place were that nice, I think the ones we have are from the original installation, they're all very smooth-domed wooden things that are basically impossible to get a grip on. Bonus: more than a few of them have been repeatedly painted over because apparently people thought they were just part of the wall or something? I can't get any of them to turn at all.
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Nov 29, 2016 22:08
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Yeah mine are these tiny round handles you can't grip and they're inside the base of the covered radiator enclosure that are built into the walls circa 1951. I can turn them all except for the bedroom one which only wiggles about 2 degrees. Impossible to get any tool in there. I'd love to just turn the bedroom one off totally though. I get enough ambient heat from the building.
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Nov 29, 2016 22:24
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Ashcans posted:Man I wish the ones in my place were that nice, I think the ones we have are from the original installation, they're all very smooth-domed wooden things that are basically impossible to get a grip on. Bonus: more than a few of them have been repeatedly painted over because apparently people thought they were just part of the wall or something? I can't get any of them to turn at all. Time to call the landlord or fix this. If you replace them with new thermostats you'll get a reasonable temperature and save the owner energy costs as well.
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Nov 29, 2016 22:31
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Zhentar posted:Build a radiator cover out of thermax and then vent it with a thermostatically controlled fan. Bam, fixed. Bam, you reinvented the storage heater, sort of. Zhentar posted:a 100W bulb screwed into a E26 Y adapter, with a 75w bulb on the other socket; the Y adapter is screwed into an E26 to NEMA 1 plug adapter plugged into the extension cord plugged into a ceiling outlet. Plugged into the other socket of the same outlet is the inline blower hanging from the ceiling. And why is the 100W light bulb so dim? Because the two sockets are wired in series. The two light bulbs are serving as a ~0.7 ohm resistor to reduce the speed of the inline blower. That turned out to be a little bit too much, so a second E26 Y adapter was daisy chained into the first, and third bulb was added to the mix. The gently caress
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Nov 29, 2016 23:28
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Zhentar posted:And speaking of horrible hack space conditioning fixes, I forgot to ever share this here: I love it when the 'rigged' solution is more time intensive and almost as (more?) costly as the correct one.
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Nov 29, 2016 23:32
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I don’t know what the industry accepted solution is, but I’d probably use a variac.
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Nov 29, 2016 23:33
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RE: Dryer Vents This honestly one of the best solutions I've seen to the dryer vent issue. Seen this in person in a few of the supply houses:  http://www.magventllc.com/page/homepage Yeah, I don't who the genius who decided that a bunch of ribbed metal was a good idea for lint delivery was, but he's an idiot. When I build my house it'll using one of these + nice smooth metal tubing to get the heat outside.
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Nov 29, 2016 23:59
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Leperflesh posted:despite the lint filter, dryer output still contains lots of lint, which is hazardous particulate matter that you should not be breathing. It also coats everything. I expect euro dryers have additional filters, adding yet more to the cost. The equivalent heat pump models in the US are twice the price as the "normal" models. European retail power prices are about 3-4x the US so then you can understand why they would opt for higher efficiency (that and europe gold plates every loving thing or just goes without).
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Nov 30, 2016 02:41
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wolrah posted:It would be nice to have some kind of selectability. Ashcans posted:Well I suppose you could just disconnect the dryer hose from the vent and point it wherever you want the heat and humidity. I would have agreed with you until I saw what venting a dryer (hell, it was even gas!) into a basement crawlspace for twenty years does to it & the rest of the basement. The crawl looked like the Easter bunny exploded and it took about seven years for us to cut the ambient lint dust down to almost-acceptable levels. gently caress that. Vent it outside. Do they even sell condensor dryers in the US? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 04:07
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cakesmith handyman posted:We call those condenser dryers, yes they're more expensive but a good one isn't slower than a vented dryer, plus you get to benefit from all that heat you generated. Vented dryers are cheaper and more common in the UK, also crap. I think dryers in the UK are just crap in general. Maybe the damp climate just means y'all are accustomed to perpetually damp clothing so you don't care if your dryer can't finish the job.
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Nov 30, 2016 04:30
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I went up and visited my dad's house for the first time. He's still working on moving his stuff in and making it habitable. The septic system isn't working yet; fortunately he's spending most of his time at the place he's renting until the house is made ready to occupy. There's a bag system in the meantime. When I got there, there was a storm blowing and the power was out. Except the smartmeter was still working and showed 239 volts and 0kw being consumed. Odd. PG&E guy got there in the morning after we reported an outage (and apparently the smartmeter saw consumption drop to 0 and alerted) and took a look. Turns out the utility power was fine and the main breaker had failed completely. I wonder how that could possibly have happened   yes, the plug-on terminal thing is utterly hosed up, twisted, and pitted. yes it apparently got hot enough at some point to warp the bus bar. no there was no evidence of a retaining clip or screw for the backfed 200-amp main breaker. no he is not using the power until a new panel's in ; he'd already turned off everything on the right-hand phase (though not the breakers themselves, because ???). he already planned to replace it ASAP; this is just encouragement to make ASAP actually ASAP instead of "I'll just not use anything that needs a lot of power until I can get this done."  not pictured: the replacement heat source for the electric heat, a crackling fireplace. which puffed copious amounts of smoke into the living room, enough that it's left a blackened soot mark above it under the mantelpiece and I could see it in my phone's flashlight beam. my dad believes that this is normal because it was windy outside.  at least there's a working CO detector (which didn't go off). the house itself is well-built, though! it's just a great many things attached to it that seem to be crappy atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 04:40
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atomicthumbs posted:not pictured: the replacement heat source for the electric heat, a crackling fireplace. which puffed copious amounts of smoke into the living room, enough that it's left a blackened soot mark above it under the mantelpiece and I could see it in my phone's flashlight beam. my dad believes that this is normal because it was windy outside. Well, it's sorta normal if you don't operate the damper properly. Maybe not to that degree, but starting a wood fireplace can fill a house with smoke pretty drat fast if you don't completely know what you're doing. Not to question anyone's expertise, buuuuuut...do either of you have much experience with wood stoves/fireplaces? That being said, the chimney has probably never been cleaned and if it's real bad, I would advise against a fire before getting it cleaned. Chimney fires are no loving joke.
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Nov 30, 2016 05:09
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Are those cleaning logs any good?
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Nov 30, 2016 05:15
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