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Was getting a second fob programmed for my Saab yesterday and the mechanic mentioned that there sounds like a vacuum leak in my brake line. I can hear something make a rumbling (kind like a compressor) noise every 10 seconds, but have never had any problems with my brakes. Sounds like it is coming from the center dashboard/firewall. Any idea where I would start to look at this? Some googling didn't turn up anything related.
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Nov 17, 2016 17:03
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Sounds like it could be a stuck blower fan / door trying to free itself. How's your ac/heat?
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Nov 17, 2016 18:30
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Better Fred Than Dead posted:Sounds like it could be a stuck blower fan / door trying to free itself. How's your ac/heat? Stuck blower/blend door is the first thing that came to mind, too.. jesus gently caress fingers work tonight West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 06:53
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Better Fred Than Dead posted:Sounds like it could be a stuck blower fan / door trying to free itself. How's your ac/heat? The ac/heat both work fine, though the heat can take a few minutes to be really warm. The odd part is this sound persists if the key in set to 'on' but the car is not running and then even when the car is cruising at Hwy speeds. It is always the same noise cycling on and off every 10 seconds. I can try and get a recording later today. Those will give me a good starting point of where to look.
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Nov 18, 2016 18:14
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Unknownmass posted:The ac/heat both work fine, though the heat can take a few minutes to be really warm. The odd part is this sound persists if the key in set to 'on' but the car is not running and then even when the car is cruising at Hwy speeds. It is always the same noise cycling on and off every 10 seconds. I can try and get a recording later today. Those will give me a good starting point of where to look. What year is your beasty again? Have you done an ACC recalibration test to see if it throws any codes? Sounds like you might have a bad blend. Also, discovered this very Swedish point of failure with my hood release..  So, what happened is- when the hood slammed down, it pushed back on both sides (both latches look like this one), and was strong enough to help shred the aging brittle plastic coating on the pull. When I tried to release the hood, I stripped off more of the plastic as it adjusted to the normal mount/resting point, and it was just sliding around, unable to release anything, since the little hooks and single mounting point were not effective. It took over an hour to get both latches open and the hood popped. [img+finger here] West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 19:27
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So, just had a call from another 9-3SS owner. Threw a code, and has been doing so for weeks (thanks for calling). Getting P0171. So, time to check the MAF, the sender, and.. what else is up? Not horribly familiar with the nuances of this breed. It isn't a 2003, so I doubt it is magically crumbling harnesses. Assume pressure needs to be watched, but if I can't find a vacuum leak or the obvious- I'm not sure where to proceed on this beasty. E: I went to go check it out, and I got a P0172, rather than the P0171 they claimed.. or it can't make up it's mind. Wish I had remembered to take my drat CANdi. 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 02:03
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I am being monumentally stupid, but I can't find a fuse/relay 9-3 Convertible '06 Rear window won't defrost. Indicator light comes on, but it doesn't heat. so, probably fuse or relay. But which one? http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/faq/manuals/2006_saab_9-3_owners.pdf page247
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Dec 1, 2016 10:46
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Did you put a bulb or ohmmeter over both terminals? You may have a broken grid.
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Dec 1, 2016 12:02
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West SAAB Story posted:Did you put a bulb or ohmmeter over both terminals? You may have a broken grid. Not yet. I am hoping it is a simple fuse. But I don't know which one to check as it isn't bloody listed in the handbook. Time to start pulling and testing all of them, I guess.
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Dec 1, 2016 14:07
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spog posted:Not yet. I am hoping it is a simple fuse. There are some MAXI fuses in your fuse box that just say 'see main dealer' in that manual. Check all those. If it isn't then its gonna be one of the 25A or greater ones elsewhere, and it will have a relay too..
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Dec 1, 2016 18:07
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spog posted:Time to start pulling and testing all of them, I guess. It's probably going to actually be easier to just pull your C pillar cover and hook up an ohmmeter.
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Dec 1, 2016 23:18
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Tomarse posted:There are some MAXI fuses in your fuse box that just say 'see main dealer' in that manual. Check all those. Found a 40A fuse in a likely spot. Christ, that's a big fuse - a nail would be a downgrade. Works, so not the issue. I think I have an idea which relay it is. Now to try to remember how to test them....(EDIt: I'll probably spend longer making a 12v test lead that I will testing anything) West SAAB Story posted:It's probably going to actually be easier to just pull your C pillar cover and hook up an ohmmeter. C pillar? What's one of those? (convertible - so hopefully I can find a bit of the loom if I drop the top a bit. I hope because it looks like the connectors to the glass are hidden under fabric. spog fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 23:53
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Do verts even have C Pillars? Edit: whoosh JayKay fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 2, 2016 00:59
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JayKay posted:Do verts even have C Pillars? Yep. They bolt up out of the rear seats when the car rolls.  spog posted:(convertible - so hopefully I can find a bit of the loom if I drop the top a bit. I hope because it looks like the connectors to the glass are hidden under fabric. Will have to go look to see in the '99 project car, since the '01 is winterized and hibernating.
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Dec 2, 2016 12:14
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JayKay posted:Do verts even have C Pillars? West SAAB Story posted:Will have to go look to see in the '99 project car, since the '01 is winterized and hibernating. I honestly have no loving clue how it all works: In the boot, there is this fusebox:  But the only Maxi fuse is for raising/lowering the roof (which makes sense) Under the bonnet, the internet said that R4 was the relay for the demister....but there isn't one installed:  The connectors to the glass are easily seen, but don't seem removable or able to touch test probes to. There is a 2 wire connector from the demister to the fusebox in the rear and it is easy to open and attached test leads to......but if you disconnect it, the heating system sulks and disables some on the buttons (such as 'auto' and 'demist'), so you can't test it. On the bright side, the demister does work now. So I have no idea what happened, but it seems good.
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Dec 2, 2016 15:39
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spog posted:iOn the bright side, the demister does work now. So I have no idea what happened, but it seems good. It's a SAAB. Glad it's working- I'd check the wiring loom to see if it is worn anywhere, but I assume you already have, so... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Dec 3, 2016 06:19
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So: Headlight relay not at fault. Rotary switch on far left controls function of headlamp switch. Daughter changed setting. Battery died, found out on our way to Thanksgiving dinner. Noticed a puff of gray smoke at startup. Also noticed scratches on windshield from worn out wiper blades. $430 later: new battery (Decca?), new wiper blades, oil change, peanut bulb replacement. Diagnosis of turbo bearings starting to go, how long until it will kill the catalytic converter / other expensive things? How soon do I have to replace it? 2008 9-5, 59,980 miles on it. Dang car.
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Dec 3, 2016 23:45
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West SAAB Story posted:It's a SAAB. Glad it's working- I'd check the wiring loom to see if it is worn anywhere, but I assume you already have, so... I am actually coming to a dawning conclusion that it wasn't broken in the first place. I thought it was busted as on a frosty morning, it stayed stubbornly opaque. The last thing I did when playing around when trying to 'repair' it was to windex off a bunch of almost salt-like, clear schmoo and I have just realised that maybe it wasn't moisture on the screen I was seeing, but this crap and the early morning light made it look like water. There's a moral here, but I am not a muppet so I don't care.
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Dec 4, 2016 13:43
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Obviously it's the C Pillars fault.
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Dec 4, 2016 13:56
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JayKay posted:Obviously it's the C Pillars fault. hate those loving things
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Dec 4, 2016 22:24
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Test drove a 2006 9-3 aero sedan today. Got a right dim failure (?) And noticed the wipers don't park and the mirror adjust not working, though the switches themselves felt mushy. Warning signs of imminent death? Normal wear?
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Dec 10, 2016 01:02
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PlisskensEyePatch posted:Test drove a 2006 9-3 aero sedan today. Got a right dim failure (?) And noticed the wipers don't park and the mirror adjust not working, though the switches themselves felt mushy. Right dim might just be bad, but it really needs to be checked. D2S bulbs are so cheap these days, you might as well make sure it has power, then just replace the pair. How much play is there when you grab the wiper and gently rock back and forth? If it has more than about an inch (but less than several), you might just need new bushings. Mirror adjust dead in the 2006 9-3 rescue I ended up with as well- it was only like $20 so I didn't even bother trying to fix it. Make sure that it isn't just a power supply issue, though. 
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Dec 10, 2016 06:13
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Funny, my left low beam just failed yesterday. Thankfully amazon has them for like $40 and its warm enough today to be outside for more then 5 minutes. The right failed last year so I'm not to worried about the swap. Was just starting to look for the vacuum leak and then something else pops up. Seems to be a theme with my car but at least its not to bad..
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Dec 10, 2016 16:59
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West SAAB Story posted:Right dim might just be bad, but it really needs to be checked. D2S bulbs are so cheap these days, you might as well make sure it has power, then just replace the pair. How much play is there when you grab the wiper and gently rock back and forth? If it has more than about an inch (but less than several), you might just need new bushings. Mirror adjust dead in the 2006 9-3 rescue I ended up with as well- it was only like $20 so I didn't even bother trying to fix it. Make sure that it isn't just a power supply issue, though. No play in the arms, as far as I remember. Power supply to the switches or to the motors? Both? I'm a complete noob at electrical. It was right "dipped" light failure. Googling says that it's a possible issue with the auto-leveling feature? Generally, for all of those flaws, everyone at another forum seem to suggests a battery reset by just pulling the neg lead off and waiting ten or so seconds.
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Dec 10, 2016 17:44
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Yeah you may even want to replace the Battery. Don't know if you have a v6, but those engines kill batteries with their heat, my mechanic said straight up to not expect a battery to last more then a few years with regular driving. When replacing the light I notice the front skid plate is in pretty bad shape and barely hanging on. And this little piece of plastic is going for $200 at least. Might just order some new screws and drill holes for them, as long as its hanging on I should not have to worry, right? Unknownmass fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Dec 10, 2016 |
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Dec 10, 2016 22:22
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It would figure if it's a battery issue and requires a new battery. Just replaced the batteries on my other car and had to drop some hefty change on them. Pain in the rear end, as well. Current Saab's battery is running close to 2.5 - 3 years and we just moved to Minnesota where winter is actually winter (down to 4 degrees F last night) as opposed to Missouri where winter is slightly slushy fall in January.
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Dec 11, 2016 20:26
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PlisskensEyePatch posted:Generally, for all of those flaws, everyone at another forum seem to suggests a battery reset by just pulling the neg lead off and waiting ten or so seconds. That's worked for me with a low voltage 9-3SS, and a LG9-5, but there is a tolerance and offset programmed via Tech 2. Not sure how common it is for that to go south, or it just not to communicate. I had to reset the 9-3SS, but the 9-5 has been fine since.
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Dec 18, 2016 17:21
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For something that's supposed to take 10-15 minutes, the CPS is a bitch to replace. I've swapped them out but now I'm having a hell of a time getting the metal clip back on and the screw and shield back in. Not a lot of room to work with from the top. I might try jacking the car up and going at it from below. Edit: From looking over at SaabCentral, it's just a PITA. Doesn't really matter which way you go at it. JayKay fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Dec 19, 2016 |
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Dec 19, 2016 00:12
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Just pull the engine out, duh.
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Dec 19, 2016 16:25
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Jalopnik is doing an All Saab Day and (re)posting all their Saab articles. Bunch of cool articles that also make me sad. 
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Dec 27, 2016 02:56
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Finally had time to finish up the CPS replacement. Items of note: when I removed the old CPS, the O-ring didn't come out with it. Thankfully I saw a post on SaabCentral warning about this, so I was able to dig it out with a my finger. Ended up putting the front end on jackstands and tackled the cover and screw from below. Was able to thread the screw with my fingers and then use a small hex wrench to tighten it. I then attacked from the top with a extension/universal joint contraption to make sure it was secure. To reinstall the retaining clip, I just jammed my hand in the area between the head and the battery and was able to get it back on without getting my hand stuck. After doing some other checks, I fired her up. Major hesitation when starting up (I attributed this to sitting for a few weeks), smoky, and rough idle. Thought I somehow hosed up the install. Drove it around the block and parked it for the night. Took it into work today and noticed the still rough idle. When I parked, I popped the hood and immediately heard the sound of air rushing. Apparently I somehow managed to disconnect a PCV hose from a check valve. Fixed that and it appears all is good. Next on the list is probably front suspension (sways, control, ball joints) and fixing the radiator leak (probably replacement).
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Jan 3, 2017 15:57
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Thought I'd offer to pull parts again, but I'm balls deep into a hoarder house and likely to get another 1' of snow by the weekend. It's been -15 most of the day, my sciatica is beyond reproach, and I hurted my hand too. I've literally hopped into a 40 yard dumpster twice today to retrieve a 40 gallon can. It's half full- and I've only had it since Tuesday. A local lot has a 2008 9-5 for $4k w/ 65k on the ODO. Gonna go check that out- may just make relative an indentured drive-slave for 2x the cost of shipping the hoards' keeper poo poo.
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Jan 5, 2017 11:32
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Looks like it's DIC time for me, car threw p1312 and p1334 today.
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Jan 12, 2017 14:53
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JayKay posted:Looks like it's DIC time for me, car threw p1312 and p1334 today. You want my big fat OEM dic along with the other poo poo I promised you? I've got a couple aftermarkets still NIB, too.
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Jan 22, 2017 04:57
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Wife had the high pressure hose to the steering pump crap out on her Jeep. Not a huge deal, I can fix it, so she's been driving my Saab for the past week. Today she calls me from work saying that the driver's window is stuck and made a bad noise when she tried to lower it. I'm thinking/hoping it's simply off track or one of the rollers failed. Lucky for me, I have extra rollers from when I broke them a few years back fixing the power lock actuator. What sucks is that i'm going to have to do the repair, tonight, outside since the Jeep is in the garage.
JayKay fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Feb 16, 2017 |
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Feb 16, 2017 19:40
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JayKay posted:Wife had the high pressure hose to the steering pump crap out on her Jeep. Not a huge deal, I can fix it, so she's been driving my Saab for the past week. After like 3 roller replacements, you get it down to a science. 3 screws, a tug, a little cursing when you put the key back in to raise the scissors, a little lube, more plastic, and you're done! Even if it is off track, it's time to replace the rollers, because they're made of cheese.
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Feb 16, 2017 23:50
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Those rollers suck hugely and everyone should have spares at all times. Interested to know if anyone else has had this issue: My drivers door sensor or something related malfunctions when it is cold so that the door thinks its open momentarily when going over bumps. If I press downward on the door it can prevent it somewhat. During the day this isn't so bad but at night I'd like to be able to have the dome light on when door opens without having it flash constantly going over bumps. The light on the dash is annoying too. Ever experienced something similar or have ideas where I can start diagnosis?
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Feb 17, 2017 05:08
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Interested to know if anyone else has had this issue: My drivers door sensor or something related malfunctions when it is cold so that the door thinks its open momentarily when going over bumps. If I press downward on the door it can prevent it somewhat. During the day this isn't so bad but at night I'd like to be able to have the dome light on when door opens without having it flash constantly going over bumps. The light on the dash is annoying too. Ever experienced something similar or have ideas where I can start diagnosis? The door switch needs replacing? You could futz around with a multimeter to see if really is the switch and not a dodgy bit of wiring to it.
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Feb 17, 2017 11:14
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As predicted, both rollers had failed. Replaced both, greased up the tracks, and we have a working window again! I still have 6 rollers left for future repair. Only bad thing was that I pretty much destroyed the upper window plastic trim. 17 year old plastic, already damaged from previous removal (oops), and cold weather = very brittle plastic. Hoping to get the jeep fixed this weekend so I can get the Saab into the garage for some more work. Edit: Protip, I used a 5" wide, flat plastic spackle knife/spreaders to remove the door panel. It made short work of the clips. JayKay fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Feb 17, 2017 |
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Feb 17, 2017 12:37
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Those rollers suck hugely and everyone should have spares at all times. Also suggesting testing the switch or getting a cheap Chinese Tech2 to watch the result before you tear into the door. JayKay posted:Edit: Protip, I used a 5" wide, flat plastic spackle knife/spreaders to remove the door panel. It made short work of the clips. I got mine with a lovely container of teflon Spackle. poo poo is the bomb.
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Feb 17, 2017 21:09
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