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tarlibone posted:It's hard to beat Ibanez on a bang-for-buck scale, especially for 5- and 6-string instruments. You don't pay too much but you get a lot of bass. That's really awesome to hear, my electric is an Ibanez. It wasn't expensive at all and it sounds great. Right now I have this Dean 4 string and I want to learn how to play Squarepusher tracks along with some obscure metal songs.
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Dec 1, 2016 02:59
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...goddammit. Okay so my bass doesn't seem to be...recognizing the cord to the amp. Horrible giant buzzing noise, tried with a different cord but it didn't change things, tried with a different instrument (guitar) and it worked fine. Something's presumably wrong with the bass' electronics? It's a GSR200 I got used so pretty cheap, but it's been reliable so far.
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Dec 1, 2016 03:02
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silvergoose posted:...goddammit. Okay so my bass doesn't seem to be...recognizing the cord to the amp. Check the jack. Open the compartment on the rear and see if you've got a bad solder between the wires and the jack itself. This could be a 10min fix.
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Dec 1, 2016 03:13
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pumped up for school posted:Check the jack. Open the compartment on the rear and see if you've got a bad solder between the wires and the jack itself. This could be a 10min fix. I'm a total newbie at such things. How would I identify a bad solder, and what sort of fix?
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Dec 1, 2016 03:22
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It is really a simple thing. When you open it up, there should be two wires connected to the jack. Should look like this (or GIS for guitar jack). If only one wire is connected (or another is piss-poorly connected) you get the symptoms you describe. I've seen this when the jack rotates and disconnects the jack from the wiring, or just had a poor soldering point in the first place and vibrated off. You know solder is like... electrical glue, right? (I know that sounds dumb). The solder joint is the little bead of silver metal that holds the two metal pieces together (wire and jack pole). To fix it you need a soldering iron and some solder. Or know someone with one, or a guitar shop can fix it quickly. You basically heat up the wire, touch the solder to it, and stick it to the jack post like glue. It cools in seconds, and then you have electrical contact again. Practice on two pieces of wire a few times. Edit: uhhh, I don't know that bass, but if it is active (a) first change the 9v battery and see if that fixes it and (b) the wiring will be just a tad different if you decide to fix it yourself. Like 3 wires instead of 2, nothing major. pumped up for school fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 03:41
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I knew solder was that, yeah, but not much more, so that was a very helpful post! Thanks! I'll take a look and see how it is. Might post a picture if I can't figure it out.
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Dec 1, 2016 03:45
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Yeah sorry if that was condescending. Not meant that way. I spent the day working on my furnace with an HVAC guy. I do electronics, he does more traditional electrical, and between the two of us we had the hardest time speaking a common language. It was a lot of “put the pointy bit on the other shiny part and wait for something to beep”. $650 later I have a new thermostat. Suck it, NEST.
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Dec 1, 2016 03:54
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I had a cheapy guitar years ago that had similar problems to what you're describing. The problem turned out to be that the socket tip (long metal part at the top of the previous image) was somehow bent outward enough that it wasn't always making proper contact with the jack tip. I've had similar issues with cheap sockets when building effects pedals. If it's that, just bend it back with your fingers (or replace it, non-poo poo sockets cost a buck or two max).
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Dec 1, 2016 04:03
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Not even remotely condescending, I am basically clueless with regards to all electrical things. I can't see anything wrong solder wise, and it's two passive pickups so presumably not battery related.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:08
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if the wires are looking good, it may also be the physical connection between the jack and the cable. If you have enough wire room, you should be able to see how the cable clips in, you want to make sure the tip of the instrument jack is in contact with that bent sort of S shaped metal part. If you gently push it towards where the cable jack would be, does that help your connection? Gently, you don't want to snap anything. Be loving and delicate. Getting my stupid guitars to work when I was younger was basically a crash course in soldering after my dad got sick of me bothering him. It's nowhere near as difficult as it might seem from the outside.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:17
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"does that help your connection" in terms of just fixing the problem, or in terms of...something I should be able to see visually? Hm. I guess I can try playing it with the rear open? Or should I close it back up before hooking it up to the amp? Also it's late and my kid is asleep and I don't want to wake him with buzzing or rumbles, but maybe I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:21
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AlphaDog posted:I had a cheapy guitar years ago that had similar problems to what you're describing. The problem turned out to be that the socket tip (long metal part at the top of the previous image) was somehow bent outward enough that it wasn't always making proper contact with the jack tip. I've had similar issues with cheap sockets when building effects pedals. If it's that, just bend it back with your fingers (or replace it, non-poo poo sockets cost a buck or two max). Yeah this! Also I am always amazed that so many guitar quick-fixes (caps, pots, jacks) are the cheapest replacements. Want a switchcraft jack for a $2000 bass? $2. Speaking of I am making progress on the Japanese Teisco. Pots and jack should arrive tomorrow. The neck is going to need a shim for it to be playable but there's a guy here in town that comes recommended. The foam mute under the bridgcover pretty much turned to dust on me when I took it out. It was like a 50 year old sponge, I guess. edit: you can play it w/ the back off, and your fingers poking around inside. You won't hurt yourself or the guitar.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:22
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silvergoose posted:Not even remotely condescending, I am basically clueless with regards to all electrical things. It could be battery related! My GSR200 had passive pickups, yes, but the (completely shithouse) "Phat II EQ" was active. I left that off (ie, knob all the way back) the whole time, and every 6 months or so I'd panic when the bass wouldn't make any sound and then remember that yeah, there's a loving battery that needs to be there for a feature I don't use and leave off, but nevertheless it eventually goes flat and needs to be replaced before the bass will work again. Loved that bass apart from that. Jonithen posted:if the wires are looking good, it may also be the physical connection between the jack and the cable. If you have enough wire room, you should be able to see how the cable clips in, you want to make sure the tip of the instrument jack is in contact with that bent sort of S shaped metal part. That's what I was trying to get at before. Cheap socket tips bend out all the time, especially if you use them with cheap cables where the jacks don't sit quite straight. It's super easy to just bend it back with your fingers if that's what's happened. I don't think you'd snap a socket tip off unless you were trying. silvergoose posted:...something I should be able to see visually? Maybe not, but here's some pics. This is a mono socket with a jack cable in it and everything's working as it should. The part that's likely to not be working right is the tip, marked with a red arrow.  What often happens is that the bit that contacts the tip (blue arrow) gets bent towards the part marked by the green arrow, and/or the whole arrangement gets bent in the direction of both arrows. If it gets bent enough, the cable just falls straight out, and it's obvious when that happens. But it could be just loose enough to cause problems, or it could be that the size of the jack is big enough that it stays put in the socket without connecting properly.  What could also happen is that it gets bent enough that it's sitting on (or partially on) the plastic bit that separates the tip from the shaft of the jack while still holding the cable in, like in the image below, which is a bitch to figure out without unscrewing the socket.  Anyway, if that's the issue just use your fingers or pliers and bend it back. The first and second images are the correct alignment with the jack in and out respectively. And again, if you want to replace the jack with a good one, they're so cheap you could get ripped off and still have change from 5 bucks. E: ...and I just realised that I've been intending to replace the (incredibly sheap and lovely) socket in my kit bass but haven't for a month now because I "didn't have a socket and I can't be bothered going to get one and it works OK for now" and the socket in the pics has been sitting under my monitor the whole time. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 05:27
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So I went a little crazy and did something I've been talking about for years, turning my 4x10 2x15 into a 2x10 2x12 2x15. Played it with the 10s, and the 12s the other night and it was insane. Just got the 15s in the mail today, and I'm gonna install them tonight. When your cabinet is so big you can work on it from the inside.  Mock up of speaker placement, I had to do some wood working to make the 12's fit where the old 10's were.  How they fit in the cab.  Running two Orange OB-1 500's and my new Squire jazz bass.
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Dec 1, 2016 23:36
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So update on my gsr, after fiddling with it, putting it back, and just trying it today, it sounds fine. So maybe some wires were jammed against others in weird ways and my jostling fixed it. 
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Dec 2, 2016 00:25
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Pokey Araya posted:2x10 2x12 2x15 What Eminence speaker models are you using? I can't tell from the picture.
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Dec 2, 2016 00:32
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Munoma posted:Last question for now. Get the best Nordstrand (or CND) pickup-equipped Ibanez you can afford. They're great. I use DR strings, the light Hi-Beams on my Stambaughs and the Legend flatwounds on my Precision. (and also DR's on my electric and acoustic guitars!)
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Dec 2, 2016 00:48
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The Science Goy posted:What Eminence speaker models are you using? I can't tell from the picture. Delta B's for all of them, the 2x15s use to be Kappas, but I accidentally ordered deltas, we'll see how they sound.
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Dec 2, 2016 01:07
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Get the best Nordstrand (or CND) pickup-equipped Ibanez you can afford. They're great. Right on, I started off with DR because I fell for the gimmick of the Black Beauties. After switching to a non-colored string I never moved to anything else.
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Dec 2, 2016 01:36
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Pokey Araya posted:Running two Orange OB-1 500's and my new Squire jazz bass. How far up can you turn your volume knobs? around 2-3?
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Dec 2, 2016 08:19
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silvergoose posted:So update on my gsr, after fiddling with it, putting it back, and just trying it today, it sounds fine. So maybe some wires were jammed against others in weird ways and my jostling fixed it. That's great! Best possible result. And even if turns out to be recurring, you know the first things to check now.
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Dec 2, 2016 11:39
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So I tried to use my bass one spot av adapter for a new 12 volt (according to the back) synth keyboard, and nothing happened. Is it because they are different voltage? I don't know anything about electronics.
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Dec 2, 2016 15:36
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Shageletic posted:Is it because they are different voltage? Yes.
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Dec 2, 2016 15:48
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AlphaDog posted:That's great! Best possible result. Yup! Appreciate the help. My almost 2-year-old likes messing with the knobs, which makes it hard to keep the weird eq thing turned all the way down, but it's pretty clear when it's on, and it's really fun to let him try to strum. ...he doesn't quite get plucking, yet, but he'll get there, I'm sure.
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Dec 2, 2016 15:51
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Shageletic posted:So I tried to use my bass one spot av adapter for a new 12 volt (according to the back) synth keyboard, and nothing happened. Is it because they are different voltage? I don't know anything about electronics. What in the hell is a "bass one spot"? The one spot is 9 volts. Unless there's a bass version that is 12 volts, this won't work.* * Unless, of course, they're 9 bass volts. Being lower-pitched, they have more torque. Get a 12 volt adapter (with the correct polarity) and you should be fine.
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Dec 2, 2016 17:19
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Gorgar posted:What in the hell is a "bass one spot"? The one spot is 9 volts. Unless there's a bass version that is 12 volts, this won't work.* That makes total sense, thanks.
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Dec 2, 2016 18:24
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Happy to read that your instrument is better! I don't know if something broke my ears, or if I have unlocked the real ultimate power of my hand, but I'm really digging the ridiculous 1954 La Bella flats on my fretless. I sprung for the through-body set, and they are nowhere near as bad as I would have imagined. Sound-wise they are awesome, may need to lower the pickups a bit to take out some of the boom... Pickup height has been my one difficult spot doing my own setups. I understand it can effect volume and tone, so actually lowering the thing will be different than just rolling down the volume a little, right?
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Dec 2, 2016 19:20
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Dyna Soar posted:How far up can you turn your volume knobs? around 2-3? All the way! More realistically, yeah about 2-3 before I'm louder than a freight train. It's alive, and it's crazy. My girlfriend did the art, I can't wait to play this thing on stage.  
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Dec 2, 2016 21:53
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Jonithen posted:Happy to read that your instrument is better! I've got Sadowsky flats on my kit fretless. They were on my p-bass before. I love them, and I'm tempted to get another set for the P, but I'm also thinking about La Bellas. When I first put them on the P I was a little disappointed that they went "boom" not "thump", but yeah, lowering the pickups helped. In my opinion, and I'm no expert, they sounded different after lowering the pickup, not just quieter. I found with pickup height that it was so subjective that the only advice that helped was "adjust a little, play a little, repeat until you get a sound you like".
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Dec 2, 2016 22:18
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Picked up this Reverend Mercalli marked down on black friday. The violin brown flamed maple is gorgeous and it's very light.  
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Dec 2, 2016 22:26
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I use DR strings, the light Hi-Beams on my Stambaughs and the Legend flatwounds on my Precision. (and also DR's on my electric and acoustic guitars!) I love DR Pure Blues. Still gotta try the Sunbeams, but the Pure Blues sound and feel great on my Dingwall. Buhbuhj posted:Picked up this Reverend Mercalli marked down on black friday. The violin brown flamed maple is gorgeous and it's very light. What kind of pickups are those? The split humbucker looks interesting.
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Dec 3, 2016 03:05
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Juaguocio posted:What kind of pickups are those? The split humbucker looks interesting. They are Reverend's(Joe Naylor) own pickups. Stolen from the website: THICK BRICK BRIDGE Warm and thick with strong mids. Output and punch like an active, but more organic sounding. 42 gauge wire, ceramic magnet, 7K ohms. SPLIT BRICK NECK Strong lows and highs, open mids. Like a vintage P bass pickup but with more beef, yet retains clarity. 43 gauge wire, ceramic magnet, 8.5K ohms. I will say the split brick is certainly...chunky. On the sweep control I have it rolled back towards the humbucker more. You get a nice punchy sound with a little bit of growl.
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Dec 3, 2016 03:27
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Pokey Araya posted:All the way! More realistically, yeah about 2-3 before I'm louder than a freight train. i want to play through that rig so bad
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Dec 3, 2016 03:46
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... you did put that sound dampening foam back in, right? Once I built a cab with neodymium speakers, I can't go back. Cabs are heavy enough without using heavy-rear end magnets. Eminence makes some great stuff though - I have Basslites loaded in my big cab and a Deltalite loaded in my small cab, and will use a Kappalite when I build my horn loaded sub to stack.
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Dec 3, 2016 04:01
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I thought different sized drivers have to be separated inside the same cab or destruction might occur. Is this a wive's tale? I went in to fix the broken ground wire on my old Traynor's line out.  ... and got carried away. Added a 10k volume pot and a jack to use a pedal to activate the onboard boost. Then I added a switch so I can either use the onboard switch or foot pedal, without leaving me stuck not being able to use it if I forget the pedal.   Worked amazing. The line-out signal is hot as poo poo, so I was able to dial it back to match roughly what I was getting through the speaker tone-wise. Kickass.
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Dec 3, 2016 12:16
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Sockington posted:I thought different sized drivers have to be separated inside the same cab or destruction might occur. Is this a wive's tale? It is true to an extent, Bill FitzMaurice would have an aneurysm from that cab. The cab will create standing waves - spaces in the room and within the cab that have dead spots and hot spots of certain frequencies, depending on the size and shape. The cab will still throw some crazy volume and tone  , but it's not the "proper" method of doing things unless each size speaker is filtered to a specific frequency range. That would be pointless here, as the filters would dissipate a bunch of power and defeat the purpose of a wall of speakers. The cab seal will need to be airtight and solidly built to deal with the standing waves, but that's true of any bass cabinet. quote:I went in to fix the broken ground wire on my old Traynor's line out. Big surprise there - did you find any rust? One of my back-burner projects is to mess around with an old amp head like that. Super cool.
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Dec 3, 2016 17:35
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muike posted:i want to play through that rig so bad Anytime you're in Austin TX. The Science Goy posted:... you did put that sound dampening foam back in, right? Not yet, I wanted to check it out without it. Seems ok so far. The Science Goy posted:The cab seal will need to be airtight and solidly built to deal with the standing waves, but that's true of any bass cabinet. I don't really know anything about building speakers cabs, but this one is solidly built, and pretty close to air tight. Pokey Araya fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Dec 3, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 22:45
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The Science Goy posted:Big surprise there - did you find any rust? Nah. I'm in there too often to let rust creep up. Decided to swap the dual inputs for a blend knob between them and a new switchcraft jack.  Starts at "Low" and blends into "Normal" channel as swept clockwise.  Works so loving well it hurts.
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Dec 5, 2016 07:49
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I'm selling my Sound City and need to figure out what I'll buy as a replacement. SS Sunno))))))))'s are very tempting but overpriced. I've already got a vintage peavey, but a Firebass would be awesome. Anyone have any experience with them? Blackface vs. whiteface?
Dyna Soar fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Dec 5, 2016 |
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Dec 5, 2016 11:51
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| # ? May 14, 2024 05:34 |
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Welp finally pulled the trigger on a bass (after getting shot of my CV 60's P-Bass last year) and decided to go balls deep: 2000 Yamaha BBG5S with a professionally replaced unlined ebony board, nut, etc. and RBX 375 pickups. I'm not 100% convinced BBG5S -> RBX375 is much of an upgrade sound-wise. Seems like a decent enough instrument for £200 certainly. I haven't yet paid the chap so if there's something I MUST KNOW abouit this please please do let me know now.
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Dec 6, 2016 23:48
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