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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003






I have something exactly like that on my C10 - it's just a distribution block where one small lead comes off the positive terminal of the battery, and a few small leads leave to power various things.


I'm leaning towards coolant temperature sensor.

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Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005

by Pragmatica
I think it is a coolant temperature sensor. It looks like it's located in a water passage between two combustion chambers on the head, which is certainly a place you would expect to find one.

Wouldn't the knock sensor be on the back of the block as opposed to the side of the head?

E: 14, you better clean up the gasket faces on those exhaust ports, the one on the left looks rusty as gently caress.

Fermented Tinal fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Dec 1, 2016

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
First of all, need wire color codes for all of those if they're not visible in the pictures.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

I'm in totally over my head on this wiring.

Need IDs for everything.

Near distributor/grounds?


Not sure. Need color code, appears to be a single pin weatherpack connector.

I could swear that on a 93 Roadmaster with the same engine, this is mounted to the right front inner fender near the battery. Those are fusible links coming off of it. Not sure what they all do or go to or went to, but it's part of the 12V power distribution system.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Near pass through.


Not sure, purple/white and ?? color codes, 2 pin weatherpack. My SWAG is: a sensor for a washer fluid, coolant, or brake fluid reservoir, depending on what was near there. Alternate guess: left front wheel speed sensor for the ABS, if the two wires are tightly twisted together inside the loom.

Not sure, need color codes

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Also near pass throughh


My guess is an exterior illumination bulb OR a washer fluid pump but I may be wrong. Need color codes

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Drivers side block can't locate a matching connector


2 pin sealed metripack 150 series connector I think, and it appears to go into a cylinder head blind with only one pin present even though it's a 2 pin housing. Unlikely to be a knock sensor since it goes into the head and is a straight-in blind style attachment rather than bolted down, my bet is a coolant temp sensor of some sort, either for the ECU or the gauge pack. If you unscrew it and find a coolant passage behind it, and it has pipe threads, well there's your answer.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Near alternator


:twitch: don't use wire cutters on poo poo till you know what it is next time :p
guess: AC compressor clutch and high pressure shutoff sensor maybe, but double check the wire color codes against a wiring diagram.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Goes into harness near distributor


Almost certainly a cam sensor, crank sensor, or ABS wheel speed sensor given that it's twisted pair wiring. Could be vehicle speed sensor as well I suppose. Check all those things on the wiring diagram till you find matching color codes.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

gently caress if I know


Probably transmission control and sense wiring, but might also be ABS HCU? If there are an rear end load (3 or 4) of twisted pair cables going to that big round connector on the right, that really pushes me toward ABS HCU, especially with that big two pin on the left with two fat wires, which probably runs the ABS pump.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

No pics or labels or anything to go by? Jesus good luck man, gently caress wiring I hate it.

INCHI DICKARI
Aug 23, 2006

by FactsAreUseless

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Wiring is loving easy if you are methodical and (maybe) label poo poo as you are taking it apart, though that is optional.

If you go in with a boltcutter and an angle grinder, it usually does not go well trying to figure out how to put Humpty Dumpty back together.

Fermented Tinal
Aug 25, 2005

by Pragmatica
For future reference, this is what a wiring harness should look like after it's been removed from a vehicle.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



kastein posted:

Wiring is loving easy if you are methodical and (maybe) label poo poo as you are taking it apart, though that is optional.

If you go in with a boltcutter and an angle grinder, it usually does not go well trying to figure out how to put Humpty Dumpty back together.

I was about to say almost exactly the same thing.

I think I almost enjoy wiring more if stuff isn't labelled as long as I have access to the correct wiring diagram with colours labelled on it and a multimeter. Its like a grown up puzzle where you have to match all the colours. Its easy if you are methodical.

You are only worried about the ECU related wiring right? (so lights and other poo poo is using the original loom).

Get the correct ECU Wiring diagram with the colour codes on (like the one posted on the gearhead-efi.com site linked earlier). Work through all components and identify their wires by the colour codes. plug them all in and then route and cable tie the loom up as you do it, working back from the ancillaries so you have a bigger and bigger bundle of wires towards the ECU.

I'm used to doing this on euro cars where all the colour codes are not in English. It looks like a piece of piss using those GM diagrams..

INCHI DICKARI
Aug 23, 2006

by FactsAreUseless
Yeah it sort of did but I wanted to eliminate the miles of van harness that would have filled the entire engine bay. I'm far more confident looming it fresh now than I was spitballing.

Current list of un sures:

Alternator has one large red wire off the stud post, is there any other connector that goes to it? I feel like there should be.

Wiring to this sensor that cracked. Low on passenger side of block into oil it appears.



Single red/black splicing into another sensor on the bracket by the throttle body that also has red/black



Single white from coil



Single green splicing in with wiring to ....temp sensor? By thermostat



This looks like everyone back here

INCHI DICKARI
Aug 23, 2006

by FactsAreUseless
Also I'm working through a nyquil fog and am at severely diminished capacity

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
The alt surely has a ground, even if it's a GM one-wire.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Alt usually grounds through the engine block, actually. Sometimes they strategically locate a block-to-battery or block-to-frame ground cable near the alternator to reduce resistance in the charging loop, but not always, for example: subaru EJ family

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Yeah it sort of did but I wanted to eliminate the miles of van harness that would have filled the entire engine bay. I'm far more confident looming it fresh now than I was spitballing.

Current list of un sures:

Alternator has one large red wire off the stud post, is there any other connector that goes to it? I feel like there should be.

Wiring to this sensor that cracked. Low on passenger side of block into oil it appears.


As we discussed on facebook, this is PROBABLY oil pressure. I thought it might be oil level, but not with a 1/8 NPT snout it isn't. Check your wiring diagrams and see if it is the one that kills the fuel pump if the oil pressure drops too low, or the one for the gauge.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Single red/black splicing into another sensor on the bracket by the throttle body that also has red/black


Sounds like the fuel injector drivers, but the connectors don't look right. Maybe goes to the ignition control module, which is mounted somewhere near there iirc?

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Single white from coil


Not one loving clue :sigh:

14 BAR RIFF posted:

Single green splicing in with wiring to ....temp sensor? By thermostat


I bet that plugs right into that sensor on the cylinder head that I was spergin about in my last megapost. The one between the exhaust ports. Note the mushroom profile of the sensor tip and that it only has one pin (though it has space for two) and the polarization/keyway in the middle.

14 BAR RIFF posted:

This looks like everyone back here



Other than the stuff you have there, you still need fuel pump relay and wiring plus O2 sensor and a few other rather important things, IAT comes to mind, as does IACV and likely a knock sensor somewhere in the valley or on the back of the block. I don't think TBI has a crank position sensor now that I think about it and I'm pretty sure the cam position sensor is built into the distributor.

PBrix24
Feb 17, 2001

14 BAR RIFF posted:


Wiring to this sensor that cracked. Low on passenger side of block into oil it appears.





That looks to be a knock sensor

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

PBrix24 posted:

That looks to be a knackered sensor

(I concur)

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



14 BAR RIFF posted:

Yeah it sort of did but I wanted to eliminate the miles of van harness that would have filled the entire engine bay. I'm far more confident looming it fresh now than I was spitballing.

Wiring to this sensor that cracked. Low on passenger side of block into oil it appears.



I'm with Ken. Oil pressure or level but its hosed. Its got sealant on the thread so it goes into an oilway.

quote:

Single white from coil


Could be a dash tacho feed?

quote:

Single green splicing in with wiring to ....temp sensor? By thermostat


Like Ken says. probably for that temp sensor stuck in the block.

Remember that it isn't unusual to have two coolant sensors. One for the ECU and one for the dash gauge. In my experience the dash one has always been up by the thermostat and the ECU one is often in the block.

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010

Pipe thread into the water jacket RH side of the block, just ahead of the starter and dipstick and just above the oil pan flange is indeed a knock sensor on these and it sure af looks like every GM knock sensor I've ever seen. hosed up place for it but that's what you get slapping EFI on a motor from the 50s as cheaply as possible.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe


Tach.




Knock sensor. oil pressure will either be A, at the back of the intake, or B right near the oil filter.




ECT.

Your wiring is too chowdered for me to be of any help. sorry. :(



E: Oil pressure sending units:




Edit2: distributor wiring:

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Dec 2, 2016

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Shrugs Not Drugs posted:

Pipe thread into the water jacket RH side of the block, just ahead of the starter and dipstick and just above the oil pan flange is indeed a knock sensor on these and it sure af looks like every GM knock sensor I've ever seen. hosed up place for it but that's what you get slapping EFI on a motor from the 50s as cheaply as possible.

:wtf: I stand corrected then. RIP knock sensor.

I've never seen a pipe-threaded knock sensor (just the donut shaped ones you bolt to the engine), nor one into a water jacket. loving GM

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



cursedshitbox posted:



Knock sensor. oil pressure will either be A, at the back of the intake, or B right near the oil filter.


Nice one CSB!
I'm wrong too - what a weird looking sensor.

Knock sensor confirmed by the images here http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0332/ which show the exact same one as you have

I bet GM just reused a pre-existing hole in the block casting which ran an oil sensor on an older revision.....

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe


(clickybig)


TBI will literally run with power and like 2 sensors.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


I'd just like to go on record and say that I never cut any of the wires unless I absolutely had to. (Looking at you injectors)

That big fat purple wire that was cut, that also ran down to the starter on the 350. I think it's still attached on the other end, not sure what you'll need for the new one though.
I've been walking Dave through this over FB. I did take some pics, but I tried to keep the wiring harness intact as much as possible, since it's really not all that complex. Each connector and socket is individual so it's pretty easy to match them up.

On another note, if anyone's still interested in sending care packages to Dave, any donations of gas money would be greatly appreciated. I know he posted his paypal address up earlier. I've been trying to support him as much as possible here, but the money set aside for this project is almost at an end.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
That purple wire being the starter solenoid drive wire makes a lot more sense than it being for the AC compressor. I was wrong again :doh:

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

kastein posted:

That purple wire being the starter solenoid drive wire makes a lot more sense than it being for the AC compressor. I was wrong again :doh:

Wouldn't have been more fun to have him turn the key and have the AC come on. You shouldn't have told.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

ExplodingSims posted:

On another note, if anyone's still interested in sending care packages to Dave, any donations of gas money would be greatly appreciated. I know he posted his paypal address up earlier. I've been trying to support him as much as possible here, but the money set aside for this project is almost at an end.


14 BAR RIFF posted:

PayPal does 1 day transfers now tyranid05@hotmail.com


In case anyone else needs it. Donation incoming

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
Apparently when you start following Immortan Fourteen on his journey down the road to Valhalla, he tests your mettle with a trial by fire.



:tinfoil: oh god it's contagious through the Internet

Regulator/Rectifier decided to develop a short and immolated itself which then ignited the plastic fender

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Tomarse posted:

Nice one CSB!
I'm wrong too - what a weird looking sensor.

Knock sensor confirmed by the images here http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0332/ which show the exact same one as you have

I bet GM just reused a pre-existing hole in the block casting which ran an oil sensor on an older revision.....

It's not an oil sensor location. It's the pipe thread plug that you pull to drain the water jacket. There's one on each side of the block, and have been since the 50s. I like to put a petcock on mine; makes draining easier. They pulled the plug on one side and installed a knock sensor there. Probably was just a convenient place right next to the cylinders.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Dec 2, 2016

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Beach Bum posted:

Apparently when you start following Immortan Fourteen on his journey down the road to Valhalla, he tests your mettle with a trial by fire.



:tinfoil: oh god it's contagious through the Internet

Regulator/Rectifier decided to develop a short and immolated itself which then ignited the plastic fender
For one beautiful moment though, you must have looked like ghost rider.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


Can confirm thats a knock sensor. Its a dead ringer with the ones I yanked out of my avalache's 5.3. You can probably run without it (I did for 2 years), just keep the timing conservative. Also, on the ls based motors, they are threaded into the valley pan. Under the intake manifold. I'm glad I listened and bought both sensors and a new harness to do that job. Also, I'll happily offer to look poo poo up for 14" while at work. I can pull up wiring diagrams easy enough, take pictures and send to him.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Cop Porn Popper posted:

Can confirm thats a knock sensor. Its a dead ringer with the ones I yanked out of my avalache's 5.3. You can probably run without it (I did for 2 years), just keep the timing conservative. Also, on the ls based motors, they are threaded into the valley pan. Under the intake manifold. I'm glad I listened and bought both sensors and a new harness to do that job. Also, I'll happily offer to look poo poo up for 14" while at work. I can pull up wiring diagrams easy enough, take pictures and send to him.

Sure, but a gen1 SBC doesn't have a valley pan. So they just found a convenient hole, and stuck it there. :shepface:

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


What, you expected better from gm? :v:

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
Look you try using the same engine for 50 years in every car you sell. We accidentally ordered 1 billion distributor gears and we can't return them.

The Door Frame
Dec 5, 2011

I don't know man everytime I go to the gym here there are like two huge dudes with raging high and tights snorting Nitro-tech off of each other's rock hard abs.
They build engines the same way that the government commissions military honors? Once they work through all of the surplus gears and Purple Hearts, they can work on new designs, otherwise they might lose pennies on the dollar of a decades old transaction

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Beach Bum posted:

Apparently when you start following Immortan Fourteen on his journey down the road to Valhalla, he tests your mettle with a trial by fire.



:tinfoil: oh god it's contagious through the Internet

Regulator/Rectifier decided to develop a short and immolated itself which then ignited the plastic fender

Ouch, my brother just had that same thing happen to him last week, while he was riding. He called me from the side of the road with a charred bike to tell me to bring my pickup to get him and the charred corpse of his Yamaha.

GOTTA STAY FAI
Mar 24, 2005

~no glitter in the gutter~
~no twilight galaxy~
College Slice
Sent some whiskey gas money via paypal.

Care package scheduled to arrive by Monday. Enjoy. Sorry the DVDs aren't anime but you work with what you've got

INCHI DICKARI
Aug 23, 2006

by FactsAreUseless
I want to once again salute my half life war boys, who shall ride eternal alongside me on the highways of Valhalla.

Header dropped off at Valentine Machine. New 02 sensor and knock sensors purchased. New knock sensor pigtail because gently caress all if I could find the old one.

I should have everything needed to fire tomorrow :unsmigghh:

btw this song gave me my second wind and inspired the heavy is the head line. listen to it. blast it. volume up.

SubRosa - Beneath the crown :black101:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzYqGAzunME

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

14 BAR RIFF posted:

I should have everything needed to fire tomorrow :unsmigghh:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaHEusBG20c

Old Binsby
Jun 27, 2014

After just finishing this thread and the AMX HEADROOM INCIDENT one more or less simultaneously, I don't know what to say. I don't know what the hell is going on but it's awesome and I hope 14 gets where he needs to be and that that dump truck gets to FL. Godspeed.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Probably a silly question ExplodingSims, but have you budgeted for fuel to Florida?

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Yeah, I've got the cash set aside for that, but things have just been getting expensive lately. The bus tickets cost more than I was expecting and constantly buying new parts and shipping them adds up fast.

That and trying to keep $1100 or so set aside for tires and stuff.

I'm bugeting for about $400~ or so. It took about $300 to get out there, so I'm sure with the new c setup it'll probably suck a lot more gas.

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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

ExplodingSims posted:

Yeah, I've got the cash set aside for that, but things have just been getting expensive lately. The bus tickets cost more than I was expecting and constantly buying new parts and shipping them adds up fast.

That and trying to keep $1100 or so set aside for tires and stuff.

I'm bugeting for about $400~ or so. It took about $300 to get out there, so I'm sure with the new c setup it'll probably suck a lot more gas.

It's downhill from Nebraska to Florida. He can just coast.

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