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tactlessbastard posted:Can you not wait out the period between 'clear' and 'money for sure'? Expect them to intimidate you. You may not the van if you stonewall them, but you’ll never see the money. Don’t even entertain the offer.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:36
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Goons pissing into a well.txt. Seriously just walk away. It's a $1500 car and this is a common rear end scam. Some construction worker will buy it and rip out the seats tomorrow.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:38
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Cashier's checks are supposed to be safe because they're paid for ahead of time, but a fake check is no good regardless. Avoiding Cashier's Check Fraud
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Nov 30, 2016 23:39
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tactlessbastard posted:Can you not wait out the period between 'clear' and 'money for sure'? Depending on your bank, that period is somewhere between 12 months and three years.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:40
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^^^ Oh if this is actually the case then nevermind. Call your bank and see how long it would take them to give you a 100% written guaranteed answer? I want to know the conclusion. I say take the check but don't hand over the keys until you know 100% it's clear, in writing from the bank.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:41
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Too bad there's not opportunity to sell the guy a M-M-M-M-inivan. OK, I'll wave him off. Thanks y'all.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:41
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spog posted:Of course you can. I had no idea! Thanks!
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Nov 30, 2016 23:43
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tactlessbastard posted:Too bad there's not opportunity to sell the guy a M-M-M-M-inivan. OK, I'll wave him off. Thanks y'all. Now you can feel smug that someone tried to con you and you beat them. Hopefully, you'll find a good seller.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:46
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spog posted:Now you can feel smug that someone tried to con you and you beat them. I texted the guy he sounded fishy as gently caress. No response. I reposted the ad. Anyone want to buy a van? http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/5899057107.html
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Nov 30, 2016 23:55
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tactlessbastard posted:I texted the guy he sounded fishy as gently caress. No response. I reposted the ad. Anyone want to buy a van? I like the warning at the bottom 
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Nov 30, 2016 23:57
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tactlessbastard posted:I texted the guy he sounded fishy as gently caress. No response. I reposted the ad. Anyone want to buy a van? I'll swap it for this bridge I have. Serious note: brush the bloody leaves off it and take some more photos.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:59
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If someone actually has funds they can write a genuine cheque against... They have cash they can give you in person. Preferably at a bank so you can pay it straight in, thus knowing it's good, and the buyer knowing it's not in your house ready to be burgled an hour or two later. spog posted:Serious note: brush the bloody leaves off it and take some more photos.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:28
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spog posted:I'll swap it for this bridge I have. I have lots more pictures for anyone who inquires, and it is cleaned up and out on the street now. Just had a local guy call and offer me $500 cash and $1000 worth of fireworks. It was tempting.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:29
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Can you put the fireworks in the van and light them off first? Also, the scam will often finish up with "oh I had to send you a check for $x more than the purchase amount for reasons, can you please to be sending the difference back to me?" There may never be anyone who even attempts to come pick up the van or anything like that. rear end posted:I paid $62 for my retarded vehicle-specific Proclip. It was good except when it got loose and fell off the interior trims it was attached to. You'd be surprised how easy it is to pry surface panels like that off, especially if you get a decent set of pry tools. I got this set a year ago and it makes the job much easier without any real risk of scratching poo poo up.
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Dec 1, 2016 00:35
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2013 Ford Explorer Sport, V6 3.5l TDI gasoline (Ecoboost), just over 49000 miles on it, suburban Detroit and we use salt on the roads in the winter. Getting check engine light and error code P219A, some minor trouble shooting on AutoCodes, saw possible cause 1 was Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors, so I added a 16oz bottle of Lucas Deep Clean to a 3/4 full tank and cleared the code. The next day, and about 20 miles later, the light and code came back. I cleared the code, checked oil dipstick, tube and fill cap then went for a longer 32 mile drive (highway, with coasting at the 2 off-ramps, .25-.5 miles each, if that matters. Some forum said that could help with a clogged cat, and it seemed harmless enough to try anyway), and so far the code hasn't come back. It was during this drive that I had Torque record from every sensor it had available to it. RESULTS! (partial) pre:Engine Coolant Temperature 174.199997 192.199997 185.7401136 Air Fuel Ratio(Commanded) 13.2299099 14.95660305 14.53555407 Air Fuel Ratio(Measured) 12.08730412 29.39955139 15.46021863 Catalyst Temperature (B1,S1) 838.7600098 1365.97998 1181.816569 Catalyst Temperature (B2,S1) 838.9400024 1365.619995 1181.771018 Commanded Equivalence Ratio 0.8999939 1.01745605 0.988813211 Engine Load(%) 7.84313726 90.98039246 33.4538289 Engine Load(Absolute)(%) 9.4117651 126.2745132 43.17406062 Evap System Vapour Pressure(Pa) -2095.75 214.5 -127.0618715 Fuel Rail Pressure(psi) 208.8543396 1608.468506 516.8683134 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%) 7.8125 12.5 10.29242318 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%) -14.84375 7.8125 0.133990922 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%) 6.25 12.5 10.4521648 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%) -10.15625 8.59375 0.84540852 Intake Manifold Pressure(psi) 2.61067939 20.7403965 9.147586834 O2 S1 Equivalence Ratio(alt) 0.82226562 1.99996948 1.051698107 O2 Volts Bank 1 sensor 2(V) 0 0.91499996 0.617416187 O2 Volts Bank 2 sensor 2(V) 0 0.85999995 0.626053058 Turbo Boost & Vacuum Gauge(psi) -11.45798111 6.67173576 -4.894902295 I don't know what's up with the Evap System Vapour Pressure(Pa), that was all over the place. Does that mean this may be bad? SO if this comes back, what should I do next?
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Dec 1, 2016 04:44
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A/F is going to do that; it's a fuel saving measure. No reason to burn gas just to idle, when the wheels are turning on their own.
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Dec 1, 2016 06:16
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Fire Storm posted:2013 Ford Explorer Sport, V6 3.5l TDI gasoline (Ecoboost), just over 49000 miles on it, suburban Detroit and we use salt on the roads in the winter. I got nothin for the rest, but Godholio mentioned it's a fuel saving measure. To be specific, while coasting or slowing down, most engines completely shut off fuel to the engine until it drops below a certain RPM (usually anywhere from 1000-1500 - my Saturn's owner's manual claims 2500 RPM, but I've confirmed via OBD2 data that it doesn't turn the injectors back on until about 1250). Even my 1991 Integra did it, according to both the owner's manual and factory service manual. There's just no reason to keep feeding fuel to the engine while you're coasting - the transmission will keep it spinning, so everything that needs to be turning (alternator, a/c compressor, power steering, water pump, etc) is still spinning, but it's not throwing any fuel into the fire, so to speak. And if you happen to bump it into neutral, the ECU will kick the injectors back on once the RPMs drop low enough. It's seamless enough that you would never notice it, even if it's something you're actively looking for. The only way you'd notice is if you were watching live O2/AF sensor data. Or if you owned one of the infamous V8-6-4 1981 Cadillacs that never had the variable displacement poo poo removed.  AF at 29 is basically just air, that just happens to be the highest a/f ratio that the sensor can measure (or the highest ratio the ECU cares about). 14.7 is the target, but the sensors simply don't respond quickly enough to keep it at a constant 14.7. If you were to ever look at the output of the air/fuel ratio sensors (or oxygen sensors, I suspect on something as new as what you have it has actual a/f sensors), you'd see them bouncing back and forth between lean and rich. It's shooting for an average of roughly 14.7 while cruising with a gasoline engine. If you're accelerating quickly, it's going to ignore those sensors and run a bit rich until you get back to cruising. You'd actually get a little more power running a little leaner, but combustion chamber temperatures skyrocket when you run lean, which quickly leads to some expensive issues (destroyed internal engine components - usually burnt valves and damaged rings, sometimes a melted or cracked piston), so the ECU plays it safe and goes a bit richer when you're demanding more power. If you're standing on the throttle trying to pass someone (or to get out of the way of the 18 wheeler bearing down on you that you didn't notice when you changed lanes without checking your blind spots and mirrors), the last thing anyone cares about is mileage, they just want to get out of the way and don't want to do any damage to the engine in the process. clam ache posted:You have solenoids getting clogged with debris from the clutch packs in the transmission. If you were outside chicago my shop rebuilds transmissions and the guy who does it can do your trans blindfolded. if you have any more questions you can PM me. Basically what happened it the fluid started eating at the clutch packs. Trans fluid can get almost accidic and will wear out your clutch packs. it will also mess up your torque converter and when that messes up it makes everything go bad. It can also lead to a broken flexplate or crank issues. Basically either get it rebuilt or start playing junkyard roulette. Its a time bomb right now and will choose the most inoportune time to go KABLOOOWEY And now I know why my stepdad's transmission died a relatively early death (120k, no heavy towing - 2001 F-150). He's religious about oil changes, but doesn't believe in changing any other fluids. Ever. It still had the original coolant when the intake manifold cracked 2 years ago, and the ATF had never even been checked by him until the trans took a poo poo early this year ("looks fine" he said... looked and smelled badly burnt to me, and well the truck refusing to move part...). First it started with rough shifting, then a flashing O/D OFF light. Aamco lightened his wallet by putting in a new valve body, which took care of the rough shifting (I suspect it was the fresh fluid that did that), then it went "nope" about 2 weeks later, so Aamco lightened his wallet a lot more. And I suspect they'll lighten it quite a bit more when it goes boom again, since their work isn't exactly the best. This makes 3 times that he's killed automatics in his personal vehicles by refusing to change the ATF, and I lost count of his old company fleet vehicle transmissions (it was at least a dozen over about a decade; some of the vans he bought brand new, most of them he got used). tactlessbastard posted:I intend to deposit the check in the bank and wait until the bank declares it cleared. I intend to inform the bank that I am waiting to hear that the check is cleared. Everyone explained the red flags, and you already realized this is a bad idea, but the biggest one is it can sometimes take banks up to two weeks to actually collect on a check, money order, cashier's check, etc - and this is assuming it's drawn from a large bank! The smaller ones may take a lot longer to clear funds; there's actually a small town bank here in TX that still does everything on paper (one computer in the place to talk to FDIC, a couple of typewriters, some calculators, and two full time employees) - a bank like that would probably take a couple of months to actually clear a check, since they literally do everything by hand/paper and only upload data to the FDIC occasionally. Banks have to make a certain amount of the funds available immediately (generally $100-200), then the rest within 48 hours (assuming you have a good account history and have had the account open for a certain amount of time), but yeah. I'd put money on the "cash" disappearing from your account in a couple of weeks, along with an angry phone call from your bank, and possibly law enforcement showing up at your door with some questions. Now you're out the money, the van, possibly your bank account (and being placed on ChexSystems, making it very difficult to open an account elsewhere), damaged credit if you can't pay the bank back, and maybe even a criminal record. Also, many police departments encourage Craigslist transactions either in their parking lot or even their lobby now, since there's so many robberies/thefts via craigslist ads. Call your local police non-emergency number and ask if they offer this. It costs them nothing to have someone that's already in the lobby facilitate the transaction, and encourages safety. Obviously, cash only for something so cheap. Like someone else said, a contractor will happily buy it, tear out the seats, and use it as a work van until the randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:33 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 12:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I got nothin for the rest, but Godholio mentioned it's a fuel saving measure. To be specific, while coasting or slowing down, most engines completely shut off fuel to the engine until it drops below a certain RPM (usually anywhere from 1000-1500 - my Saturn's owner's manual claims 2500 RPM, but I've confirmed via OBD2 data that it doesn't turn the injectors back on until about 1250). Even my 1991 Integra did it, according to both the owner's manual and factory service manual. There's just no reason to keep feeding fuel to the engine while you're coasting - the transmission will keep it spinning, so everything that needs to be turning (alternator, a/c compressor, power steering, water pump, etc) is still spinning, but it's not throwing any fuel into the fire, so to speak. And if you happen to bump it into neutral, the ECU will kick the injectors back on once the RPMs drop low enough. It's seamless enough that you would never notice it, even if it's something you're actively looking for. The only way you'd notice is if you were watching live O2/AF sensor data. Or if you owned one of the infamous V8-6-4 1981 Cadillacs that never had the variable displacement poo poo removed. To be pedantic, they're all oxygen sensors - it's a difference of binary (switching) sensors vs. A/F, linear, wide-range, etc. (different names for the same thing) sensor. Anyway, yeah, engines try to cut fuel ALL THE TIME. It's a direct fuel economy/emissions benefit (really, what's better for saving fuel than not using it?) Engines can actually produce more torque when they run rich but you're right, rich-operation is mostly to keep exhaust temperatures down. Not only do you risk engine components but also catalyst damage, etc. Anyway, P219A is a CID/AFIM problem - according to my coworker, Ford only detects imbalance per bank, and P219A is probably bank 1. Looks like you might be running rich on bank 1 based on the first column? /shrug I'm just an engineer, I don't actually know anything about cars. Just the sensors 
totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 15:00
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totalnewbie posted:/shrug I'm just an engineer, I don't actually know anything about cars. Just the sensors And it's back. Well, I got a week until I can afford any parts, so I got some time to figure it out. And hey, I found a local DIY shop, so I got that working for me.
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Dec 2, 2016 01:13
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totalnewbie posted:To be pedantic, they're all oxygen sensors - it's a difference of binary (switching) sensors vs. A/F, linear, wide-range, etc. (different names for the same thing) sensor. I WAS HOPING YOU'D POP IN FOR THIS!  Going by the emissions sticker under the hood, they're pretty much always labeled as either O2 or A/F sensors - and from what I understand, O2 is usually narrowband, A/F is usually wideband, and who knows what the gently caress on the rest (but please school me if I'm wrong; if anyone is the person to do it, it's newbie). totalnewbie is one of the people who's heavily involved in the engineering of this kind of stuff for a major OEM, and that company is also a major player in a very well known brand of aftermarket parts.
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Dec 2, 2016 12:57
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Sure, and that's probably right that people will call a switching sensor an "O2 sensor" and a wide-range sensor an "A/F sensor". But the A/F sensor is also a sensor that detects O2 content in the exhaust stream so you couldn't NOT call it an O2 sensor. The operating principle of A/F sensors are more complicated than switching sensors but they still depend on oxygen ion transport through yttria-stabilized zirconia. It's just that in a switching sensor, you simply detect the voltage coming out of the sensor and in an A/F sensor, you now actively apply a current to the sensor.
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Dec 2, 2016 17:34
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Posted this is the Stupid/Small Questions megathread and was advised to post it here instead. I live in Virginia and was rear ended by someone else (very slow accident that broke the plastic bumper and dented the trunk, we were both at a red stop light and he let his foot off the brake). My car, a 1998 Toyota Camry, has been declared a total financial loss by the other persons insurance (State Farm). Their two options to me are to either 1. Sell them the car and title for $2500, 2. Keep the car and a get a check for $2500 - $300 (salvage value). I know that I can get the car fixed for less then $2200 (I have gotten an estimate at a different, non-insurance specified, body shop), but State Farm have told me that I need to get a salvage title/certificate if I choose to keep the car. I don't know what all this involves and what additional steps and costs (besides just getting the car fixed myself) I will incur with the salvage title/certificate. Anyone been through this before and know what steps I need to take and what costs I need to worry about? Also, any advice on making sure I get a fair value for the car?
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Dec 2, 2016 20:35
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Depends. Go to your states dmv. Just google "yourstate dmv salvage title"
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Dec 2, 2016 20:38
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The remote start doesn't work on my 2008 Toyota Tacoma. It's 'communicating' fine - pressing the start button causes some blinking lights, etc on the dash, but the engine doesn't start. Some googling led me to suspect a problem with the hood pin. The truck doesn't start because it doesn't believe that the hood is down. I found the hood pin, but now I'm stuck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXbmT2uLl6A Here's a little clip of me pressing the hood pin. Does it seem broken at this end? Should I trace that line to find where it goes?
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Dec 2, 2016 20:43
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Cage posted:Depends. Go to your states dmv. Just google "yourstate dmv salvage title" I did, this is what I came across: https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/vehicles/#salvehlawreq/declarsalvage.asp It looks like the insurance company will file VSA58 (Notification of Owner Retained Late Model Vehicle), but after that do I simply take my car to get repaired and then apply for a new title at the DMV?
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Dec 2, 2016 20:50
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Do I have to do anything with the parking brake to remove the passenger rear brake rotor on my 01 ES300? Before I go buy a goddamn sledgehammer to get this loving thing off I want to be sure I'm not about to destroy the parking brake. I read that you can use a screwdriver on the adjusting mechanism to take the tension off but that didn't seem to help, or I didn't do it correctly. Edit: Quick related question, is it ok to bleed\flush brake lines with only one corner at a time jacked up? My drive is on a slight incline so I don't want to jack up an entire axle (Yes I have wheel chocks, I'm just paranoid). Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 2, 2016 21:39
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1985 Ford Van E250 Super Cargo Van - 5.8L, 4bbl Where the heck do you get those goddamn plastic caps for the HVAC control levers? I've seen some online advertised for Mustangs. are they the same for all old Fords?
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Dec 2, 2016 23:02
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Opening the hood on my "new" 1996 Camry is a two-person job. The release lever and cable are fine, but the hood doesn't pop up and catch on the latch like it should, so someone has to be up front pulling up on the thing while someone else hits the release in the cabin. It's My relatively uneducated guess is that the completely dead hood gas struts have a whole lot to do with this, but I'm not entirely sure, and I haven't been able to squeeze an answer out of Google yet. Is/are/am there anything else I should be looking for? It's really just an annoyance, and I'm not going to replace those expensive rear end struts just for this.
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Dec 2, 2016 23:54
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Acid Reflux posted:Opening the hood on my "new" 1996 Camry is a two-person job. The release lever and cable are fine, but the hood doesn't pop up and catch on the latch like it should, so someone has to be up front pulling up on the thing while someone else hits the release in the cabin. It's Isn't there a spring around the latch that provides the initial pop?
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Dec 2, 2016 23:58
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spog posted:Isn't there a spring around the latch that provides the initial pop? I pull airplanes apart and put them back together for a living, for gently caress's sake. I feel a little foolish that I haven't been able to figure this out by myself.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:07
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Acid Reflux posted:I would have thought so, but it doesn't look like anything's missing from the latch mechanism or the catch on the hood.  mind you, I am also guessing.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:21
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spog posted:
Hood pop-up springs tend to look like this: 
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Dec 3, 2016 00:24
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Deteriorata posted:Hood pop-up springs tend to look like this: Agreed, but I think they are different in this case https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MESXtTwvQ2c&t=429s
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Dec 3, 2016 00:36
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spog posted:Agreed, but I think they are different in this case Oh, that's perfect! After looking at the picture you posted before, I had wondered if that's how the mechanism actually worked. I'm going to go out and Kroil the living hell out of it and see if anything loosens up. A quick look online tells me I can get a whole assembly for under $20, so I'll just grab a new one if this doesn't start working. Thanks a bunch for the help - sometimes you just have to talk it through with someone.
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Dec 3, 2016 00:43
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I'm thinking about buying a 2004 Miata LS and want to know about tires for it in case they need to be replaced asap. Are Tirerack ratings a good resource or are there better sites?
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Dec 3, 2016 02:52
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Filthy Hans posted:I'm thinking about buying a 2004 Miata LS and want to know about tires for it in case they need to be replaced asap. Are Tirerack ratings a good resource or are there better sites? I've done very well with Tire Rack, myself. You can also ask around in the Miata thread for specific recommendations. What tires you get depends a lot on what kind of driving you intend to do and how much you can afford.
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Dec 3, 2016 02:59
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Deteriorata posted:I've done very well with Tire Rack, myself. Thanks, I'll post there instead
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Dec 3, 2016 03:03
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Acid Reflux posted:
Not at all. The physics are all wrong. Those things apply practically zero lift when the hood is down.
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Dec 3, 2016 03:58
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Acid Reflux posted:Oh, that's perfect! After looking at the picture you posted before, I had wondered if that's how the mechanism actually worked. I'm going to go out and Kroil the living hell out of it and see if anything loosens up. A quick look online tells me I can get a whole assembly for under $20, so I'll just grab a new one if this doesn't start working. I just want to add to this: the little rubber bumper things at the corners of the bonnet assist in pushing it open. As they wear you're supposed to raise the height of them by twisting them in the mount, or turning a screw or similar. You adjust them upwards until they're applying enough pressure to keep the bonnet pop-happy, but not so much that it won't close by gravity.
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Dec 3, 2016 07:03
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Newf posted:The remote start doesn't work on my 2008 Toyota Tacoma. It's 'communicating' fine - pressing the start button causes some blinking lights, etc on the dash, but the engine doesn't start. Some googling led me to suspect a problem with the hood pin. The truck doesn't start because it doesn't believe that the hood is down. That pin only makes contact if the hood is open - it's the same style of switch that used to be used to turn on interior lights on most cars, it only makes contact when the door is open/pin fully extended. Otherwise the circuit is open (as in, no connection to anything). If anything, I'd say the remote start may think the hood is closed when it's open, due to the rust on that switch. There's a chance the water inside the switch is shorting it though. You can test your theory by disconnecting the wire from the switch; pull the pinkish-red part straight down (you may need to hold the pin itself while you do so to prevent breaking the switch, as it may be stuck on pretty good from corrosion). Disconnecting that wire temporarily will make the remote start think the hood is always closed. Kibbles n Shits posted:Edit: Quick related question, is it ok to bleed\flush brake lines with only one corner at a time jacked up? My drive is on a slight incline so I don't want to jack up an entire axle (Yes I have wheel chocks, I'm just paranoid). Yes. Just use jack stands if you're getting under it. Though I've bled plenty of times on a driveway with an incline without lifting any part of the car. You just want to make drat sure there's no way the car can move (i.e. use the parking brake, put it in park, and when you park it, put the chocks behind the wheels and let it roll back slowly until it's against them).
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Dec 3, 2016 08:04
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