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I think the best option is to just move the brackets and redrilling new holes.
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Dec 3, 2016 22:29
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You might also consider using glue. I bet it'd hold better than screws going into particle board, even if one of the surfaces is painted (though maybe scratch that surface up with a utility knife before gluing).
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Dec 3, 2016 23:32
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With that surface I might try liquid nails or maybe some polyurethane adhesive to help support it. I''d swap the L brackets out for longer ones so that you can use fresh screw locations and so you can use two screws per side as well, at least on the longer dimension.
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Dec 3, 2016 23:56
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Delivery McGee posted:I have a cheap little tabletop drill press, and the drive belt broke. There's a phone number on the side to call the importer for replacement belts, but I don't exactly expect results or timely shipping even if they do still have 'em. The belt is 24cm circumference and 4mm diameter. Is that a standard o-ring size I can pick up at the local hardware store? 24cm circumference seems awfully small for a drill press drive belt. Could you take a picture?
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Dec 4, 2016 01:14
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kid sinister posted:Most modern incandescent Christmas light bulbs have a secondary winding inside to complete the circuit if the filament burns out. That way, only that one light goes out and not that entire series, like the older strands did. Thank you for the insight, I think the bulb I used is the correct voltage because I used 2.5v bubs and it is a string of 50 lights. The first few bulbs I tried for a replacement came from a string of 100, and I tried with a pack of 2.5v incandescent bulbs from Target , I don't see any ESB or SB markings on the pack. I think the next step it to search a few more retailers and try to see if I can find something 2.5v and super bright. I don't believe it is a problem with the socket, I can burn out bulbs just as fast in any of the other socket on the string.
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Dec 4, 2016 02:06
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Crotch Fruit posted:Thank you for the insight, I think the bulb I used is the correct voltage because I used 2.5v bubs and it is a string of 50 lights. The first few bulbs I tried for a replacement came from a string of 100, and I tried with a pack of 2.5v incandescent bulbs from Target , I don't see any ESB or SB markings on the pack. I think the next step it to search a few more retailers and try to see if I can find something 2.5v and super bright. If they're incandescent, especially if they don't have the individual bulb bypass wiring, I'd just chuck them and pick up a new LED stand. Old christmas lights just aren't worth the effort, and the energy you'll save from an LED strand will pay itself back pretty quickly. Unrelated question for anyone that knows anything about birds... There is what appears to be a large (~8"x 1.5') yellow jacket hive hanging from a tiny branch over my driveway. But, I swear I saw a bird in there and so I had assumed it was a bird's nest until I started googling pictures and now I'm not so sure. I just took a closer look and snapped a picture, and it's definitely a yellow jacket nest, but is there any chance a bird could be living in there?  Just wanted to check with someone else before I hose it down with poison and an extension pole.
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Dec 4, 2016 02:57
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I think the best option is to just move the brackets and redrilling new holes.  god, that was easy... It hadn't even occurred to me.
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Dec 4, 2016 03:06
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OSU_Matthew posted:Just wanted to check with someone else before I hose it down with poison and an extension pole.
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Dec 4, 2016 04:02
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i like nice words
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kid sinister posted:
You're welcome.
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Dec 4, 2016 04:19
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I observed a water stain in the ceiling of the 2nd floor bathroom during the inspection of the home we bought (August). A few months later, it has manifested a large mold (i think?) stain. I tried to get a look from the attic which is directly above the bathroom, but it's an unfinished sea of deep fiberglass insulation...I don't even know how to move around that without risking falling through. Additionally, the bathroom fan EXTERIOR vent cover (on the outside of the house) is missing. Working Theory: The missing exterior vent cover provided a path for rain water, which soaked the drywall and led to the mold. Solution: Install new vent cover, cut out and replace moldy drywall. Concerns/Questions: (1) Any advice for getting around an attic covered in fiberglass insulation where you can't see the beams, (2) What's the best pro to hire for the vent cover and drywall, (3) Any other suggestions for possible causes or ways to tackle this?
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Dec 4, 2016 04:34
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OSU_Matthew posted:If they're incandescent, especially if they don't have the individual bulb bypass wiring, I'd just chuck them and pick up a new LED stand. Old christmas lights just aren't worth the effort, and the energy you'll save from an LED strand will pay itself back pretty quickly. If you're in North America, no birds small enough to use that as a nest are anywhere near breeding at this time of year. I'm also not aware of any birds that use insect nests like that for breeding, even in season. It's possible a bird is using it as a night roost, or was eating dead something in there, but if you remove it you won't be negatively affecting any birds.
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Dec 4, 2016 04:52
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tjh5122 posted:I observed a water stain in the ceiling of the 2nd floor bathroom during the inspection of the home we bought (August). A few months later, it has manifested a large mold (i think?) stain. I tried to get a look from the attic which is directly above the bathroom, but it's an unfinished sea of deep fiberglass insulation...I don't even know how to move around that without risking falling through. Additionally, the bathroom fan EXTERIOR vent cover (on the outside of the house) is missing. Just feel your way around the insulation, you'll know whether you're stepping on a joist or not. Only step on the joists, which should be spaced every 16-24". Go ahead and replace that exterior vent cover yourself. Just pick something up this up, up at home depot, and caulk it in place, it's an easy job. Drywall is a bit tougher, but just cut out the bad section, size out and screw in a new piece, tape, mud, and paint it in to blend in. Definitely doable. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Dec 4, 2016 |
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Dec 4, 2016 05:36
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I can't find an oil painting thread. Does one exist somewhere that I've missed?
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Dec 4, 2016 06:34
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General curiosity: in a modern (built past 1980 or so) home, if you tore down your drywall, what would you see behind it? I'm demoing a c. 1885 home, and I find myself looking at wood planks, I'm curious what you get in newer homes.
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Dec 4, 2016 07:03
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minivanmegafun posted:General curiosity: in a modern (built past 1980 or so) home, if you tore down your drywall, what would you see behind it? Dead rats, but fewer of them. Distinct lack of old razor blades. Fiberglass insulation if it's an exterior wall. Otherwise, Romex and copper piping depending on where you rip.
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Dec 4, 2016 07:55
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Zeris posted:I can't find an oil painting thread. Does one exist somewhere that I've missed?
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Dec 4, 2016 12:18
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OSU_Matthew posted:Just feel your way around the insulation, you'll know whether you're stepping on a joist or not. Only step on the joists, which should be spaced every 16-24". Alternatively buy some plywood, add some 2x4 cleats to one side and add handles on the other, and you have a movable floor you can be on while you fiddle with stuff without worrying about falling through.
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Dec 4, 2016 13:42
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minivanmegafun posted:General curiosity: in a modern (built past 1980 or so) home, if you tore down your drywall, what would you see behind it? A wall cavity with studs that the drywall was fastened to.
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Dec 4, 2016 16:23
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Flipperwaldt posted:As in artistic oil painting? Try here in the Creative Convention subforum, I guess. Oh, should have caught that. Thank you.
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Dec 4, 2016 16:33
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minivanmegafun posted:General curiosity: in a modern (built past 1980 or so) home, if you tore down your drywall, what would you see behind it?  There will be insulation on those exterior walls and sometimes on interior for soundproofing.
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Dec 4, 2016 16:41
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Zeris posted:Oh, should have caught that. Thank you. You got this Bob every Monday all day doing wet on wet landscapes and harkening you back to the carefree days of your youth with his mellow demeanor. https://www.twitch.tv/bobross Guaranteed never to paint a living creature, except sometimes a squiggle of a bird. His sense of color was extraordinary, imo.
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Dec 4, 2016 16:58
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minivanmegafun posted:General curiosity: in a modern (built past 1980 or so) home, if you tore down your drywall, what would you see behind it? Sup wood plank buddy? Are they tongue-and-groove and about 8" or 10" wide? Are they actually interlocked using the T&G or are they spaced 2" apart so they could use a couple less boards per wall? Do the nails vary from 14d to 60d, sometimes missing the studs entirely, ready to really gently caress up your day if you don't see them? I love old houses! 
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Dec 4, 2016 17:13
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minivanmegafun posted:General curiosity: in a modern (built past 1980 or so) home, if you tore down your drywall, what would you see behind it? Sounds like what you're actually asking about is: sheet stock. Either plywood or osb for that timeframe. Your potentially tongue and groove is way better.
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Dec 4, 2016 18:14
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Wandering Orange posted:Sup wood plank buddy? Are they tongue-and-groove and about 8" or 10" wide? Are they actually interlocked using the T&G or are they spaced 2" apart so they could use a couple less boards per wall? Do the nails vary from 14d to 60d, sometimes missing the studs entirely, ready to really gently caress up your day if you don't see them? They appear to be proper T&G spaced properly, but this is in the newest addition to this home (it's had at least two, maybe three, and it's still only 1200 sq ft). The picture below is from as far back in the house as I can go.  The nails? Could be anything. We've been concentrating on demoing an absolute wreck of a bathroom that seems to be split between the original house and the first addition, the wall between the shower and the toilet appears to be this original T&G stuff. From what we can tell, they slapped drywall over the original plaster, tile over that, and then that weird plastic wallboard you find in cheap industrial kitchens on top of that. The tile is missing in parts, the drywall and plaster is powder, and the lath behind that can be pulled down by hand. I'm glad we waited a year to let it dry out before we started on it?
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Dec 5, 2016 02:29
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I was sent here from the Quick Questions thread in Goons With Spoons (aka Something Offal aka Goons With Chickencheese). I'm in an apartment (in Canada) that came with a new-ish looking oven/stove. It seems to work just fine for anything and everything I use it for except high-temperature baking. The oven vents through a short pipe directly under the back-left stove element (as well as some slit vents out the top/back) and the little circle of metal from the middle of the element is missing. This means the oven vents directly up through that element without any obstacles to slow down air movement. I have an oven thermometer I bought at a grocery store hanging from the upper rack. I discovered I can get the oven to hit 400 F reliably and hold it there if I put a plate over that back-left element - when I first moved into this apartment a year ago I couldn't get it to maintain 375 and it took forever to get there. Last night I baked some haddock fillets using a recipe that instructed me to hit them at 500 F for 10 minutes; the package said 450 F. It took almost an hour for the oven to reach 450, after a loooong pause at 400. It wasn't even trying to get to 500 - I say that because the light indicating active heating turned off and stayed off for that looong pause at 400 (maybe 20 minutes). I fiddled with it and convinced it to go as high as 450 and I cooked the fish at that temperature. For about 15 minutes instead of the recipe's 10 because of the lower temperature. I'm working my way through a cookbook and while temperatures over 400 are uncommon, there are a few recipes I'd like to do that call for temperatures of at least that high. Is there a way to get my oven hotter?
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Dec 5, 2016 03:30
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ExecuDork posted:I was sent here from the Quick Questions thread in Goons With Spoons (aka Something Offal aka Goons With Chickencheese). Most low to midrange home ovens top out around 450 because once you get past there the thermal design gets much more expensive. If you can theoretically set to 500, it's possible that it needs to be adjusted-- on dial controls usually the temp knob pops off and there's a screw to adjust what the dial shows vs what temperature the oven is actually getting to. That vent is part of the design and beyond leaving a pot on that burner I wouldn't do any modifying to hit a temperature it doesn't want to hit. If you were to fully block it you don't know what might fail and worst-case catch fire.
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Dec 5, 2016 05:06
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I was moving some Christmas decorations out of the storage space in the finished basement of our house yesterday and I found a large patch of fresh mold behind one of them. After investigating some more I found some wood (basically molding) on the wall nearby which popped off easily and revealed some more mold and a roughly 1.5" hole through the drywall with mold behind it. gently caress. I grabbed a ventilator, sprayed some bleach water on the mold on the outside of the wall, and put a dehumidifier in there and closed the door. Our house is built into a hill, with half of the basement underground and other half open to outside (if that makes sense). The wall in question is right next to the underground portion in the wall the runs perpendicular to that, so my assumption is that moisture is entering the space through the ground outside (Our area had its wettest October one record, and a wet November as well) and getting the inside of the walls wet, which has led to mold in there. Obviously this has happened before, with some sort of fix applied at some point in the past that has failed again. I'm assuming this is a call-somebody situation, and that's my plan, but I'm not sure where to start. I'd like to fix it right, if possible, but I also don't want to spend an incredible amount of money to do so. Anything I can do to avoid getting taken for a ride while still getting it taken care of?
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Dec 5, 2016 21:48
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I'm assuming this is a call-somebody situation, and that's my plan, but I'm not sure where to start. I'd like to fix it right, if possible, but I also don't want to spend an incredible amount of money to do so. Anything I can do to avoid getting taken for a ride while still getting it taken care of? And get 2 or 3 quotes. Always.
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Dec 5, 2016 21:59
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I was moving some Christmas decorations out of the storage space in the finished basement of our house yesterday and I found a large patch of fresh mold behind one of them. After investigating some more I found some wood (basically molding) on the wall nearby which popped off easily and revealed some more mold and a roughly 1.5" hole through the drywall with mold behind it. gently caress. I grabbed a ventilator, sprayed some bleach water on the mold on the outside of the wall, and put a dehumidifier in there and closed the door. There's noxious mold and there's mold that's mostly harmless. If you were mucking around in toxic mold, you'd know it. Slugworth posted:Decide on your comfort level of how thoroughly you want it remediated, number one. There are no laws dictating how mold must be handled (like lead or asbestos), and that's because while it's a health risk, you're also literally breathing mold spores every day everywhere you go. There's certainly no shame in doing asbestos level mold remediation if that's how you wanna go, especially if you have respiratory/immune issues, or have a child or elderly person in your home. But don't let some contractor come in and tell you that you *need* to do things this way or that. This can be as complicated as full containment with negative air machines, hepa vacuuming every square inch, double bagging debris, full tyvek suits, etc or as simple as a guy comes in, closes the basement door behind him, and just rips everything moldy out, sprays bleach, calls it a day. Talk to your contractor, find a middle ground that feels appropriate to you. Yeah this.
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Dec 6, 2016 04:59
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I have a 97cm tall kitchen island/table/work-surface, the correct seat height, divined using a friends table of the same height and the chairs that go with it, is 70cm. However chairs this height are hard to find, so I'm thinking of getting 4 of these: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/chairs-stools-benches/cafe-bar-chairs/stig-bar-stool-with-backrest-black-silver-colour-art-80155205/ and a pipe cutter, chopping 4cm off the tubular steel legs and putting the plastic leg ends back in. Any thoughts on the practicality of that scheme?
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Dec 6, 2016 06:41
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Your pipe cutter may be designed for copper and inadequate for steel, so have a standby cutting tool should that fail. An angle grinder would be fine.
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Dec 6, 2016 09:35
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OSU_Matthew posted:Unrelated question for anyone that knows anything about birds... There is what appears to be a large (~8"x 1.5') yellow jacket hive hanging from a tiny branch over my driveway. But, I swear I saw a bird in there and so I had assumed it was a bird's nest until I started googling pictures and now I'm not so sure. I just took a closer look and snapped a picture, and it's definitely a yellow jacket nest, but is there any chance a bird could be living in there? That's not yellowjacket, that's bald-faced hornets. I recognize the size & pattern, I've curated two of these. Bald-faced hornets are not quite as aggresive as yellowjackets, but boy howdy do they pack a wallop. They're twice the size. If you are in a temperate area, leave it be. the queen vacates this time of year & the rest of the workers die off. They do not re-inhabit these nests. If you're close enough, I'll come & get it; they're beautiful up close. If you can save it, do; after the first really cold day (under 40-deg) you can bring it down. Just to be sure, at night, put it carefully in an empty trash can with a Raid Fumigator (which uses smoke rather than aerosol), tape the lid on & leave it overnight. that'll kill anything in it.  
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 14:53
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So I just found out that my oil furnace heat exchanger has a crack in it and as the furnace is 20 years old I'm just going to replace the whole thing. Should I use the guys that my heating oil provider recommend or should I go find someone myself? Also what else should I change while I am at it?
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Dec 6, 2016 20:17
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Qwijib0 posted:Most low to midrange home ovens top out around 450 because once you get past there the thermal design gets much more expensive. If you can theoretically set to 500, it's possible that it needs to be adjusted-- on dial controls usually the temp knob pops off and there's a screw to adjust what the dial shows vs what temperature the oven is actually getting to. That vent is part of the design and beyond leaving a pot on that burner I wouldn't do any modifying to hit a temperature it doesn't want to hit. If you were to fully block it you don't know what might fail and worst-case catch fire. Thanks! Yeah, I have no plans to really block any vents, the plate I put over the stove element doesn't prevent air movement because there's a space between the stovetop and the roof of the oven, maybe 1 inch high, and the pipe only sticks up a little bit. And I'm not going to do anything to the back vents. The knob can pop off, but I think it's reasonably accurate - it sits happily at 350 when I set it there, according to my oven thermometer. I probably won't need to go above 450 and I can adjust my expectations for time to just deal with the fact my oven will take an hour to get there. And I'll clean it, I shouldn't need an excuse 
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Dec 7, 2016 04:55
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Qwijib0 posted:Most low to midrange home ovens top out around 450 because once you get past there the thermal design gets much more expensive. How does this square with low to midrange ovens that have a self-clean setting? That gets much hotter than 450, right?
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Dec 7, 2016 15:50
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I am trying to find a Toggle Bolt with a C-Hook and the only place i am finding them is loving Alibaba.... I have toggle bolts that are currently holding up a big loving mirror but right now the little hooks are just barely hanging onto the bolt head, and I really want a hook to hold it in place... I am either looking for the above, or a hook that has a hole I can place the toggle bolt through that the hook will hold up to ~100 lbs.
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Dec 7, 2016 16:30
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fyallm posted:I am trying to find a Toggle Bolt with a C-Hook and the only place i am finding them is loving Alibaba.... I have toggle bolts that are currently holding up a big loving mirror but right now the little hooks are just barely hanging onto the bolt head, and I really want a hook to hold it in place... http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-200-lb-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Drywall-Hanger-55099/202341604 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hangman-42-in-Heavy-Duty-Mirror-and-Picture-Hanger-HM-42D/205946670
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Dec 7, 2016 17:33
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-200-lb-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Drywall-Hanger-55099/202341604 Sorry, I should of mentioned this is going into plaster and not drywall. EDIT: I am looking for something like this : https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRctriLaGLa2B-cMC7L44fG4JZReg6czNAv3n6jYnK-sPL_sFiq fyallm fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 17:44
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fyallm posted:I am trying to find a Toggle Bolt with a C-Hook and the only place i am finding them is loving Alibaba.... I have toggle bolts that are currently holding up a big loving mirror but right now the little hooks are just barely hanging onto the bolt head, and I really want a hook to hold it in place... Why not just hang it from the studs? How wide is it? What does the hanger look like on the back of the mirror?
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Dec 7, 2016 19:40
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kid sinister posted:Why not just hang it from the studs? How wide is it? What does the hanger look like on the back of the mirror? The house was built in the 40's and the studs aren't center to where we want the mirror. And we couldn't find all the studs. The hanger looks like this: https://www.govart.com/resize/Shared/Images/Product/Wide-1-Hole-D-Ring/707square.jpg?lr=t&bw=500&bh=500
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Dec 7, 2016 23:44
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