|
tactlessbastard posted:Not at all. The physics are all wrong. Those things apply practically zero lift when the hood is down. Slavvy posted:I just want to add to this: the little rubber bumper things at the corners of the bonnet assist in pushing it open. As they wear you're supposed to raise the height of them by twisting them in the mount, or turning a screw or similar. You adjust them upwards until they're applying enough pressure to keep the bonnet pop-happy, but not so much that it won't close by gravity. After reading this just a few minutes ago, I went out to check those too...and they're both (a) twisted out far enough to where they're barely hanging on for dear life, and (b) making either very slight, or no contact at all, with the hood on either side. There's not a lot of play, but you can definitely feel the point when the corner of the hood makes more solid contact with the rubber bumper when you push down. I'm going to investigate some new ones. Thanks again, everyone!
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2016 13:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 18:12 |
|
|
I know Ive asked this question here before but I cant remember the answer... I think it was "maybe"... Is there any real financial advantage to buying a new car at the end of the year? like before january 2017... or is all pretty much the same...???
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2016 21:43
|
|
|
Dealers will be willing to negotiate a bit more on remaining 2016s, but it's only worthwhile if you plan to drive the car a long time - otherwise you're taking an extra year's hit on depreciation whenever you sell it. Factory incentives will also vary between 2016s and 2017s, more than likely. Also, this late in the year, there's not going to be many 2016s to choose from, aside from "every option available" and "poverty spec".
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2016 22:40
|
|
|
FrankeeFrankFrank posted:I know Ive asked this question here before but I cant remember the answer... I think it was "maybe"... This is a niche case, but if you’re buying a car that has a tax rebate associated with it, the rebate only applies to one year. So if you’re an independent contract or switching jobs or otherwise have fluctuating income, be aware of that. You’d want to buy the car in a year where your taxes are high enough that you get full value out of the rebate.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2016 22:44
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Dealers will be willing to negotiate a bit more on remaining 2016s, but it's only worthwhile if you plan to drive the car a long time - otherwise you're taking an extra year's hit on depreciation whenever you sell it. Factory incentives will also vary between 2016s and 2017s, more than likely. To expand on this, it wouldn't be a bad idea to see what a used 2016 (there should be a few out there now) of whatever you are looking at sells for, and use that as a target. Yes, you have a one year older car when you go to sell it instead of a 17, but you should also be able to offset that completely up front. The worst depreciation is at the beginning anyway. If you save the first year of depreciation in exchange for one year when you go to sell it, you probably come out ahead.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2016 23:14
|
|
|
2012 Subaru Outback, 75k miles. Between once a week and once a month, I hear a strange noise when I start my car. The sound sounds like the sound when you start your car even though the car is already running. Is it possible that I hold the key in the 'Start' position for too long or is this something else (serious/benign)?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 01:28
|
|
|
theHUNGERian posted:2012 Subaru Outback, 75k miles. That's usually a sign that the bendix is sticking (the mechanism to kick the starter gear off the flywheel when the engine starts). Probably going to need a new starter. I don't know if it can be replaced/rehabbed independently.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 01:37
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:That's usually a sign that the bendix is sticking (the mechanism to kick the starter gear off the flywheel when the engine starts). Probably going to need a new starter. I don't know if it can be replaced/rehabbed independently.  Given how rarely this happens, how do I convince the dealership that this is indeed happening? I'm asking because I still have time left on my warranty and this would qualify for warranty repair.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 01:41
|
|
|
theHUNGERian posted:
Start by telling them it is happening. See what they say. This is not an uncommon issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 01:46
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Start by telling them it is happening. See what they say. Alright. The car needs some recall work done anyway, so I'll bring it up then.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 01:48
|
|
|
So I just replaced all four rotors and all pads on my 01' ES300, and flushed all the brake lines completely. The car stops very good but the pedal feel is still.. iffy. It's not spongy but if you apply steady pressure to it, the pedal will travel quite far, not to the floor but more than it should. I guess the master cylinder is the next thing to check? Is it pretty difficult to slap a new one in? It doesn't look that involved but I've never done it before.
Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Dec 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 22:09
|
|
|
Kibbles n Shits posted:So I just replaced all four rotors and all pads on my 01' ES300, and flushed all the brake lines completely. The car stops very good but the pedal feel is still.. iffy. It's not spongy but if you apply steady pressure to it, the pedal will travel quite far, not to the floor but more than it should. I guess the master cylinder is the next thing to check? Is it pretty difficult to slap a new one in? It doesn't look that involved but I've never done it before. Brake booster, maybe?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2016 23:54
|
|
|
Do you have combined rear disc/drum brakes or disc with a ratcheting caliper for the parking brake? I thought I had hydraulic issues when I replaced 3/4 calipers, turned out to be the rear pistons weren't turned out enough and I was effectively pushing the pedal against the gap between the pistons and pads. You might try pulling the parking brake a lot if you don't have combined rear disc/drum, the pistons act like a ratchet and turn out only in one direction. Otherwise you could have a few tiny bubbles in the system still, maybe give it a week or so and bleed all four corners again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 00:09
|
|
|
Kibbles n Shits posted:So I just replaced all four rotors and all pads on my 01' ES300, and flushed all the brake lines completely. The car stops very good but the pedal feel is still.. iffy. It's not spongy but if you apply steady pressure to it, the pedal will travel quite far, not to the floor but more than it should. I guess the master cylinder is the next thing to check? Is it pretty difficult to slap a new one in? It doesn't look that involved but I've never done it before. Replace all brake hoses. They are beat and expanding as you mash the pedal.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 00:28
|
|
|
Yeah, I'll second all the ideas of there still being air in the lines, the rear brakes not being fully adjusted, or the hoses are failing. The master cylinder would probably manifest itself as a pedal that continues sinking. Booster would be a pedal that gets hard too soon.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 00:35
|
|
|
Well I'm pretty darn sure there's no air remaining in the lines, I went through a big bottle of Dot 3 and nothing but clean, bubble-free fluid was coming out of each line. There could be some in the ABS system somewhere, I guess. I'll double check the adjustments on the rear, and if that doesn't do it, I'll put new lines on it. if THAT doesn't work well then the master cylinder is all that's left. Thanks! Edit: If the brake lines were swelling too much, would you be able to physically see it when someone pressed the brake? Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Dec 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 03:20
|
|
|
So, uh, I bought a new car just before Thanksgiving... based on your guy's experience, how long should it take for them to send me the "preliminary title thing" in the mail and my first bill for the car loan? I haven't even seen the car loan show up on my credit report yet... it's been almost two weeks but that includes Thanksgiving. I think I am gonna call them tomorrow and touch base.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 03:57
|
|
|
I wouldn't bother. They won't forget, probably just running behind.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 04:17
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:So, uh, I bought a new car just before Thanksgiving... based on your guy's experience, how long should it take for them to send me the "preliminary title thing" in the mail and my first bill for the car loan? I haven't even seen the car loan show up on my credit report yet... it's been almost two weeks but that includes Thanksgiving. First payment was due 45 days after date of purchase last time I bought one. Took about three weeks to get the loan processed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 04:19
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:First payment was due 45 days after date of purchase last time I bought one. Took about three weeks to get the loan processed. Gotcha, gotcha... If something happens like the forms get lost in the mail and I miss the first payment (I know that's a hell of a thing right) they won't just immediately repossess my car, right? I think it's generally 90 days. For the people with car loans - did you sign up for online payments or did you just mail paper checks?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 04:39
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:Gotcha, gotcha... If something happens like the forms get lost in the mail and I miss the first payment (I know that's a hell of a thing right) they won't just immediately repossess my car, right? I think it's generally 90 days. They don't want their car back, they want your money. They'll get in touch with you soon. Relax. We do everything with electronic funds transfer these days. It's set to debit the checking account every month. As long as your income is steady and you don't have to worry about cash flow, it's far easier.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 04:49
|
|
|
Yeah that sounds right. One last thing - what is your guy's opinions on keeping road flares in the trunk or hatch area of your car?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 04:54
|
|
|
I've never had actual flares, but I do have one of those triangle LED lights Harbor Freight gives away regularly. Mostly because it fell out of the bag and when I noticed a few days later I figured it might as well stay. Edit: I prefer online payments.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:06
|
|
|
Always got a kit of flares or LED equivalents, along with basic tools, reflective vest, etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:11
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Always got a kit of flares or LED equivalents, along with basic tools, reflective vest, etc. While this is probably good advice for anyone, it comes from someone driving air cooled VWs 
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:22
|
|
|
I guess I could just envision getting in an accident, fuel tank rupturing, the flares somehow ignite the tank and I literally die in a car fire. Probably pretty unlikely. Of course the hybrid battery is probably just as bad potentially. I've also heard that in modern vehicles if you're in an accident so severe that the fuel tank is compromised you may already be dead.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:25
|
|
|
Best travel sized first aid kit for keeping in the car? Premade or build your own?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:28
|
|
|
The Ferret King posted:Best travel sized first aid kit for keeping in the car? Premade or build your own? Roll of duct tape
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:29
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:I guess I could just envision getting in an accident, fuel tank rupturing, the flares somehow ignite the tank and I literally die in a car fire. Probably pretty unlikely. Unless you're driving a '74 Pinto, rupturing the fuel tank is not a serious worry. I've never had an occasion where road flares would have been even slightly useful, but some sort of LED warning light might be worth considering - particularly if it doubles as a flashlight. You'll probably never be in an accident where you need to warn traffic away in the middle of the night, but you might need to change a tire.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:30
|
|
|
I've always liked build-your-own. Get a package of that quick-clot compound that could be a real lifesaver.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:30
|
|
|
The Ferret King posted:Best travel sized first aid kit for keeping in the car? Premade or build your own? Build your own, really. What you'll want in a travel first aid kit: 10x small bandages (boo-boos) 10x large bandages (large scrapes) a package of 4x4's (4 inch square absorbent pads, about $5 on amazon for a large kit) (actual bleeding wounds) A roll of duct tape. Literally. Don't cheap out. Polyflex is a good brand - get a color you wouldn't confuse for something else. I use white. (for holding the four-by-fours on) A short 10-20' section of rope. Use the nylon stuff. (always handy, can tourniquet, pull things, emergency fixes, etc) Small pack of benadryl (allergies) Small pack of ibuprofen (pain) Small pack of asprin (suspected heart attack) Some aloe burn gel ( Iodine tablets (water purifying) Alcohol or bleach wipes (wound cleaning, but really fresh water is better) A bottle of water or saline solution, if you can get your hands on it (wound cleaning). Anything else will be taken care of by emergency services, and the wound cleaning water doubles as drinking water for an overnight stay or whatever. You don't need more than that in a first aid kit. Recommendations from my limited 4-year experience as an EMT in both city an rural areas, emergency kit for your car: A blanket (or two, if you have any extra room) Reflective vest some sort of road flare or emergency triangle (I've swiped 2x3-triangle kits from crashed ambulances. The kind with the heavy sand-filled base. Very handy, and much safer in the long run than flares - 3 triangles, minimum) Flashlight, with batteries. Keep the batteries outside of the flashlight, but in the same ziplock bag, to prevent leaking or accidental activation) Drinking water. Just throw a gallon jug in there. Get the kind with a screw lid - pop lids equal wet trunks under heavy braking) Tire inflation stuff. I use a can of fix-a-flat, but keep in mind, that tire and possibly wheel is toast if you use it. Weigh the cost versus a tow. Tire wrench Jack and jackstand Matches Again, in the continental US, anything else is generally (suggestions here) overkill. But those are the things that will save your loving life. A reflective vest is, in my mind, a must. I've seen too many people swiped by traffic because they were wearing a navy blue hoodie and jeans at night. Reflective triangles, IMHO, are better than flares, because they don't burn out, and anything coming up on you should have their headlights on. Blankets and water are obvious. Quik-clot powder has been banned, an in fact (both in real life and in army life) they recalled it and took it from our medic kits about three years ago. If you get your hands on quik-clot gauze, then that's better. But the powder, to be honest, never really worked. Ask me how I know. IOwnCalculus posted:While this is probably good advice for anyone, it comes from someone driving air cooled VWs And because of that, I also have basic tools (8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 22, 36mm wrenches and some sockets), a timing light, points, condenser, distributor mechanical assembly, spare wire, wire connectors, a multitool, and carburetor cleaner in both of my cars
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Dec 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 05:45
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:So, uh, I bought a new car just before Thanksgiving... based on your guy's experience, how long should it take for them to send me the "preliminary title thing" in the mail and my first bill for the car loan? I haven't even seen the car loan show up on my credit report yet... it's been almost two weeks but that includes Thanksgiving. You may not even get a title until it's paid off. I didn't. It took about 2 1/2 or 3 weeks for me to get my plates and registration in the mail. Remember, your first payment usually isn't due until 45-60 days after the purchase anyway. You should get a payment book around the same time as your registration, if it's not in the same envelope. Three-Phase posted:Gotcha, gotcha... If something happens like the forms get lost in the mail and I miss the first payment (I know that's a hell of a thing right) they won't just immediately repossess my car, right? I think it's generally 90 days. Online all the way. I don't even have paper checks anymore, I just can't justify the money in paying for them. If I do need a check, I can have one mailed through my online banking. So long as you went through a bank for your loan, or reputable dealer's financing department (i.e. Bob's Toyota, not Jimbo's Buy Here Pay Here), you get 3-6 months behind before they start threatening repo. You don't get a ding on your credit for a late payment until you're 31 days late.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 06:00
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:While this is probably good advice for anyone, it comes from someone driving air cooled VWs Oh then you have an alternator belt and pulley in your kit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 06:08
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Oh then you have an alternator belt and pulley in your kit. But of course! I was listing the universal ACVW tools earlier. You want to get into vehicle specifics? I've even got a spare alternator in the beetle, on account of me not trusting the Chinese Ebay "75A" alternator I swapped out for the stock bosch generator in the 72 Super Beetle. You know the moment I put it in the workshop I'll end up stranded due to failed alternator brushes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 06:12
|
|
|
I keep some basic boo boo stuff, plus several one shot cheapo super glue tubes. Emergency stitches for when I inevitably gack myself open... again. Nail glue also works well. The scar on my palm that was a 4" long cut down into the fatty tissue of my palm that I joined with nail glue is neater than my actual surgery scar on my arm done with proper stitches. (I was broke with no insurance and no desire for more unpaid medical bill collectors calling. )
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 06:32
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Build your own, really. What you'll want in a travel first aid kit: Thanks. This gives me plenty to work with.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 06:52
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:One last thing - what is your guy's opinions on keeping road flares in the trunk or hatch area of your car? We're not allowed flares in the UK (because they aren't keen on us being able to make fire as we might hurt ourselves), but based on my extensive viewing of US media, I understand that Things road flares are used for Illuminating dark caves Igniting a trail of fuel Scaring away monsters Checking the depth of a sudden, deep hole Waving off approaching aircraft (landing/attacking) Exploding propane tanks Things road flares are not used for: Warning traffic on the road of a stopped vehicle.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 10:17
|
|
|
Regarding MVS' first aid kit list: post/username checks out. "Shoot, a fella could have a good weekend in Vegas with all that stuff."
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 12:56
|
|
|
Three-Phase posted:"Shoot, a fella could have a good weekend in Vegas with all that stuff." Fun fact: the original line referred to Dallas. Then 11/22/63 happened. “Vegas” was overdubbed, but you can still read “Dallas” in the lips.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 13:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 18:12 |
|
|
I need some new tires but I'm not sure to go with winter or all seasons. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 hatchback itouring 6 speed manual model with the stock Bridgestone ecopia tires and last year they sucked in the small amount of snow we got (Boston, MA). The two years prior to that, I had a Honda Accord with some continental all seasons and it did fine in the snow, even when we had a lot more of it. Now I know it's two different cars and the Honda was probably heavier, but the Bridgestone has lovely snow ratings. Now I'm at 26k miles and am thinking of getting a set of Steel rims and some dedicated winter tires, or just trading in the lovely all season OEM bridgestones for a better all season tire. Any advice? I'd rather not spend $6-700 plus now on winter tires and then in the summer have to spend another 5-800 on new all season tires, but if other all seasons are going to ride just as bad as the bridgestones in the snow on this car, then maybe I need to.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2016 13:25
|
|
