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Is just massaging the headers out of the question?
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Dec 9, 2016 23:39
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Rotten Cookies posted:Can you take that arm from the box and flip it? Funny you suggest that because me and Dave went back out to look at it and I think that's the way we're going to go. The biggest con is that it's a cone bushing so we're going to hog out the hole on the steering box arm so it can fit through the other side and fill the space with quick steel. Now it's a matter of either getting a new pitman arm, heating and twisting the existing one, or fabbing something from the remains of the jeep.
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Dec 9, 2016 23:39
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I know Dave already cut the firewall, but I'm cool if you need to smack the headers in a bit too
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Dec 9, 2016 23:47
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djdanno13 posted:Now it's a matter of either getting a new pitman arm, heating and twisting the existing one, or fabbing something from the remains of the jeep. Please be thorough in your decision making and execution of any of these plans. You all know this, however I am going to politely remind everyone that pitman arms are not to be underappreciated. Also LOL at the bashing the headers video. That's awesome. I vote that if it's a valid solution. Can you reroute the headers around the steering box/column?
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Dec 9, 2016 23:54
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Heating and changing the shape of the pitman arm is probably the easiest way to go, but also the most dangerous. I have no idea what steel it is made of or whether it is tempered, but if it is any kind of hardened steel, you will remove the temper and then possibly add a temper that is inappropriate. E.g., it may be too hard/brittle, or too tough/malleable, after you bend it. There's a good chance it's just mild steel and will be fine regardless, mind you. But I wouldn't bet the driver's life on it.
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Dec 9, 2016 23:57
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Pham Nuwen posted:Specifically, this part: This is exactly what I was going to link. Just bash the gently caress out of the headers and be good with it.
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Dec 10, 2016 00:01
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EVERYWHERE 
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Yup. Consider that power loss is on an engine making nearly three times the power of that L05. Bash the gently caress out of those headers. I would be wary of swapping the pitman arm around since it should be a tapered fit.
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Dec 10, 2016 00:03
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Leperflesh posted:Heating and changing the shape of the pitman arm is probably the easiest way to go, but also the most dangerous. I have no idea what steel it is made of or whether it is tempered, but if it is any kind of hardened steel, you will remove the temper and then possibly add a temper that is inappropriate. E.g., it may be too hard/brittle, or too tough/malleable, after you bend it. It's either cast or drop forged going by the picture. Hard to tell without handling it and tapping on it. Probably not cast given the dynamic load, but I don't exactly know how 1940s engineers think.
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Dec 10, 2016 00:04
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Yeah. I guess what I mean is I'd be happier if it was cut and welded, than if it was heated and bent, unless I knew exactly what it was made of. And it's so loving cold out there, just throws another variable into the mix. Is it the original/old stock pitman arm? I doubt it's actually cast iron, that'd be too brittle for a mechanical piece like that, right? But drop forged or cast mild steel, or maybe a mid-carbon steel? I dunno. 
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Dec 10, 2016 00:09
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Rather than loving with the pitman arm, why not just fabricate a new drag-link that includes a 3" side-step? Here is the worlds worst paint drawing attempting to illustrate.  I've never messed with steering stuff, so I'm sure I'm missing something terribly important that might make this be a terrible idea.
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Dec 10, 2016 00:11
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That may cause a mixup with the steering wheel/column placement if you move the box too far over?
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Dec 10, 2016 00:27
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Rotten Cookies posted:Can you take that arm from the box and flip it? Was coming to post this. E: if you can make the flip happen with a conical washer and a locknut, give me your best guesstimate of the angle and I can make (Stainless?) and overnight the cone washer. E2: or drop ship a drag link and I can make that a work instead. I have a pretty good shop at work. glyph fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Dec 10, 2016 |
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Dec 10, 2016 00:34
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I really think using a sleeved tie rod to flip the dag link over and shave down the tie rod side and fill the conical with quick steel smeared with blue grease to pop it out when ready, with a large thick washer is the way to go
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Dec 10, 2016 00:34
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I'd be pretty leery about hacking up the pitman arm. Changes to the pitman can do weird poo poo to how the vehicle steers.
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Dec 10, 2016 00:51
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I'd be pretty leery about hacking up the pitman arm. Changes to the pitman can do weird poo poo to how the vehicle steers. It's a '51 Chevy dump truck. I don't think they'll be able to tell the difference. 
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Dec 10, 2016 00:52
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glyph posted:Was coming to post this. I'll get some measurements in the morning thank you
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Dec 10, 2016 01:37
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14 BAR RIFF posted:I'll get some measurements in the morning thank you Be sure you send him the measurements of the truck parts, not the "personal" ones of yours.
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Dec 10, 2016 01:44
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Used eBay headers? There must be something out of the 500 choices.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:04
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DO NOT flip the pitman, nor put the drag link on the other side of it... that way lies disaster. Please.  I'd either heat, bend, and gusset the drag link, or turn the drag link into a Z-link, like has been suggested, which is a super common trick among mud truck builders who lift too high without thinking about their steering. Unless that part is completely irreplaceably rare, that is.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:09
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AI is so weird. In PYF, when you ask for help, you get your opinion criticized to hell and back, ridiculed, or told to do the exact opposite of what you should do. In Games, they just tell you to GET GUD. Here you strange people are, actually helping out. I don't get it.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:15
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We want to see this truck make it to Florida and 14 to make it home in the fastback.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:17
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it really is the cool dudes forum. *flicks cigarette at u*
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Dec 10, 2016 02:18
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:AI is so weird. In PYF, when you ask for help, you get your opinion criticized to hell and back, ridiculed, or told to do the exact opposite of what you should do. In Games, they just tell you to GET GUD. Yeah but god forbid we are ever on the road together.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:19
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:AI is so weird. In PYF, when you ask for help, you get your opinion criticized to hell and back, ridiculed, or told to do the exact opposite of what you should do. In Games, they just tell you to GET GUD. Why would you ask anything in PYF? That's the forum for people who would list their interests as "Buzzfeed lists", "the 90s", and "Netflix"; if they knew anything about anything, they'd be posting in a different forum.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah but god forbid we are ever on the road together. Or if you do something just abysmally stupid like that guy that paid a jillion dollars for a car due to financing idiocy.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:32
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Raluek posted:Also, what about a cast iron log manifold? Has this been tried? Hell, even an old rams horn manifold looks like it'd fit. I'd explore any and all header/manifold options before I'd start messing with steering components. But then again this isn't automotive sanity so hail satan.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:41
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What about the van box? Turning steering linkages into a U is a bad idea Horizontal box shafts are common on all sorts of heavy duty crap, even tractors for that matter...
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Dec 10, 2016 02:55
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Modifying the draglink into a z-shape seems like the most ideal route to go. This only has to last about 2000 miles, most of the steering will be into and out of gas stations and Napas until he starts getting to more populated states and has to drive through a city or two. Get it done by that machinist with the bonerific car horde and it should be more than capable of survivng the trip. Yeah, it'll have to get cut in half to do this, but unfucking it if it's unicorn rare shouldn't be a problem (for a good machinist) once the truck's in Florida. Worst comes to worst, you have to get a new link fabricated if it's turbofucked and not replacable otherwise.
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Dec 10, 2016 03:14
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kastein posted:DO NOT flip the pitman, nor put the drag link on the other side of it... that way lies disaster. Please. Serious question can you please elaborate more on why we should not turn the drag link around to bolt on the other side? Or is it just because of the tapered end? I wasn't hip on z'ing the drag link but if others have done it successfully?
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Dec 10, 2016 03:51
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I mean, I would think all this would be a last resort, as it seems pretty extreme. Is Hammering the headers still out of the question?
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Dec 10, 2016 04:13
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djdanno13 posted:Serious question can you please elaborate more on why we should not turn the drag link around to bolt on the other side? Or is it just because of the tapered end? Tapered end. If you have a machinist around who can fill the old taper with weld on the pitman, mill the surface flat again, then drill and ream a new one on the other side that has the same taper angle as the old one (there are a few standards and I have no idea what GM used in 1951) it is a decent idea, but anything else runs the risk of wallowing the hole out and snapping the stud and nut off, or just snapping the stud and nut off. Either is obviously bad news, and all this requires modifying an ancient part that is not easily replaced most likely. Jbweld will fail in a few miles, if it even lasts long enough to torque the nut down. It is a lovely problem to have and I'm not even sure how I would move the box over, nevermind solving the linkage issue, if bending or z-linking it is not acceptable. Neither of those is ideal but I have seen worse.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:20
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I may still have the ram horns from Bernice. Let me take a look tomorrow, I know they are worth something to hot rod guys for some kind of clearance issues so it might be worth a look.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:22
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ExplodingSims posted:I mean, I would think all this would be a last resort, as it seems pretty extreme. Is Hammering the headers still out of the question? If you're open to it, then it should be considered. The 3" might mean a combination of tweaks.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:31
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I thought you guys were already running aftermarket truck headers. Is that what the van came with?
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Dec 10, 2016 04:35
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Yeah, the black headers are aftermarket blockhuggers. The OEM manifolds don't fit in the truck, so you have to go with an aftermarket solution. I thought, in the research I did that these would clear the steering box without much issue, but it would seem that is not the case. I would try and see if they can be hammered in first before loving around with something as critical as the steering though.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:40
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In other news Dan says farting is contagious because were both pretty talkative today
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Dec 10, 2016 04:41
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:AI is so weird. In PYF, when you ask for help, you get your opinion criticized to hell and back, ridiculed, or told to do the exact opposite of what you should do. In Games, they just tell you to GET GUD. We're all refugees from the apocalyptic hell scape that is every other car forum on the internet. Its so nice to be here I don't think anyone wants to gently caress it up.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:53
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14 BAR RIFF posted:In other news Dan says farting is contagious because were both pretty talkative today Try morse code.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:53
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Just catching up with this thread after following along vaguely on facebook. Great work 14. The first time I did a wiring job like that was also the last time. Also: Someone please tell me that that thing drives that thing and I can die a happy man. I know it doesn't
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Dec 10, 2016 05:07
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As Nero Danced posted:Try morse code. All you are going to get is two asses saying "dear god why the pickled eggs" and "for the love of god send help" and "tell my rectum I love her"
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Dec 10, 2016 05:47
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