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This morning I was changing over to winter wiper fluid when I discovered something was trying to make a home on top of my engine. I'm guessing it might be chipmunks as the car is parked outside but I'm worried what they're using as that bedding. It doesn't look natural; looks more like cloth fiber or insulation. Hope whatever did that didn't take anything from the car. 
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Dec 6, 2016 22:47
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So, what rear swaybar should I put on a GH impreza just for daily driving? I'm not going to track this car, but want to reduce body roll a little. There's no bar back there at the moment. I was thinking of a whiteline or maybe a wrx take-off. Thoughts? I also have rear drums  E/\ /\ what's in place of the power steering pump on the right hand side (left in the picture) of your serp belt? Mine's got a big ole pump right there, yours looks like it has just a bracket and a pulley. BloodBag fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 22:50
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Yeah if you can find someone who's pull off their stock swaybar and links that will get you most of the parts, preferably from an STi. Think those got 18mm bars from 08-14, then 20mm for 2015. I assume there are spots for the brackets on the crossmember so you would just need those and bushings. The oem parts are all pretty cheap. Otherwise, whiteline does have a full kit with mounts and endlinks and hardware, it would cost a bit more probably, but this one would be a good choice: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BSR51Z&sq=23584 Adjustable bar, not too huge, doesn't come with their nice endlinks but will work ok. And I get pretty good prices on whiteline.
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Dec 6, 2016 22:58
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Now that I'm done panic-buying guns in California before the idiotic Jan 1 laws go into effect, I'm ready to put a little bit of money into my 16 WRX to improve the ride. Everyone I talk to says to do a sway bar or suspension first. It's my daily driver, and I'm not currently tracking it, although I may in the near to distant future just for funsies, nothing serious. It'd be cool if I could install the stuff myself. I'm not too technically competent when it comes to cars (a lot of the stuff in this thread is gibberish to me), but willing to learn. e: Also, I'm not ready to do anything that requires an ECU flash, as I have a long time left on my warranty.. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 23:24
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Dont mod your car at all if you want to use your warranty. E: Cars are like heavy mechano. Theres nothing overly difficult about installing suspension components, its all literally nuts and bolts. Just get a wheel alignment afterwards. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 00:19
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:
Dont mod while your warranty is active. It ends in tears.
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Dec 7, 2016 00:22
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Been having a rattle at startup and squeaking at idle, some rattle on decel too. It seemed to come from the area of the firewall so it was suggested the pitch stop was failing. Checked it and didn't see anything broken but noticed the clutch slave leaking so I ordered both. New pitch stop in, still squeaking, moved the downpipe around a little since that has caused problems but still didn't fix it so took a closer look. Most of the TIC crossmember bushings are just...gone and what's left is disintegrated. Kinda surprised they failed. Installed in 2007. Is that a normal lifespan for poly bushings in this kind of spot? 
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Dec 7, 2016 00:32
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He said he DOES NOT want to do anything that involves reflashing the ecu. It's not like putting on an aftermarket part voids the warranty. Like, if you change the shocks and the engine blows up or the stereo stops working or something it's still going to be covered. You can put a catback on and make it louder and that's not going to hurt anything either. What you should or should not do depends on what you mean by "improve the ride." Better handling and still good ride quality, yes there are some good options. If you think it is too stiff or harsh that kind of limits things, better dampers from RCE/Bilstein, and then possibly springs, offset front top mounts to improve the alignment, maybe rear lower arms, maybe a swaybar. Beyond that some nicer complete coilovers like what um excuse me got. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 01:34
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Dont mod while your warranty is active. It ends in tears. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:No one here knows poo poo compared to Murray. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Anyone claiming otherwise is a loving liar. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:full stop.  Came to see if there is any good news on a new STi. Realized some things never change.
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Dec 7, 2016 03:03
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BloodBag posted:E/\ /\ what's in place of the power steering pump on the right hand side (left in the picture) of your serp belt? Mine's got a big ole pump right there, yours looks like it has just a bracket and a pulley. Yeah, it's just an idler pulley on the right side of the engine.
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Dec 7, 2016 04:21
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Edward IV posted:Yeah, it's just an idler pulley on the right side of the engine. Oh subaru Instead of specifying a different length belt than the rest of the earlier EJ25s, just slap an idler on it. Legos gonna Lego.E: I still have the vestigial mounting points for the AC tensioner pulley on mine even though they moved to a stretch belt on the GH.
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Dec 7, 2016 14:13
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Edward IV posted:This morning I was changing over to winter wiper fluid when I discovered something was trying to make a home on top of my engine. That's probably your hood or firewall insulation. Animals love a warm engine bay with included furnishings.
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Dec 7, 2016 16:06
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:There is so little real mechanical differences between the bugeye and the GC8, it's frankly a wash. The Bugeye isnt really more modern at all, it does have better crash protection at the cost of I think 1-200kgs more weight. Seeing as I've been driving around a Miata for the past two years, the lack of safety shouldn't bother me but the voice in the back of my head keeps telling me I should care. The price though is a good point, I can buy a GC8, ship it, replace all the consumables and slap a couple of ~*STi*~ stickers on before I match the price of the GD. Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm an enormous, rabid fan of the GC/GF series but if I were buying a daily I would buy another GD/GG. What is it about the GD/GGs that makes them a better daily? I've already spent more time looking at parts than I have listings for the car itself.  Water will be sprayed at the intercooler. Not that I need it but the parts are cheap enough that I'd just like to have the button on my dash. 
RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 17:01
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BloodBag posted:E: I still have the vestigial mounting points for the AC tensioner pulley on mine even though they moved to a stretch belt on the GH. gently caress stretch belts. I hate doing work on newer Subarus just because of the stretch belt and the PITA of removing and installing it. Should have just redesigned the old tensioner to be auto tensioning instead of manually adjusted.
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Dec 7, 2016 19:52
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after 4 years, i've finally bit the bullet and purchased a replacement cupholder insert
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Dec 7, 2016 19:52
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Just chiming in to say I have MCA blues in my 180sx and they are a bit stiff for daily driving but tolerable. and they loving own when the surface is flat. I would go for the new X series over the blues though.
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Dec 8, 2016 01:47
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Laserface posted:Just chiming in to say I have MCA blues in my 180sx and they are a bit stiff for daily driving but tolerable. and they loving own when the surface is flat. money
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Dec 8, 2016 02:49
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Kind of a weird thing happened to my '12 STi yesterday: I went into the garage and heard something odd. It was like an electrical relay was stuck or a vibrator was on inside of a suitcase (I assume). I did some investigating and it was definitely coming from inside of my car. The trunk was empty and when I folded down the back seat on the driver's side I could tell I was getting closer. I pulled the "floor" of the trunk up behind the back seats and it got louder but I couldn't tell what was happening. For possible safety reasons I immediately moved it out of the garage. I checked and the sound stopped. Checked periodically last night and it never came back. Drove it this morning and it was fine, no noise - just checked and it still isn't doing it again. Is this something anyone else has run into and if so, what the gently caress?
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Dec 8, 2016 20:49
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It's some sort of evap fuel leak test, totally normal.
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Dec 8, 2016 21:12
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Naked Bear posted:It's some sort of evap fuel leak test, totally normal. While the car isn't running?
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Dec 8, 2016 21:43
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Yep. It's a question that pops up pretty often roundabouts the internet.
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Dec 8, 2016 22:22
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Flyinglemur posted:While the car isn't running? Yup. For whatever reason my Forester does it around 9pm some nights and I can hear it in the house if it's real quiet. Was concerning as crap the first time it happened. Still hasn't exploded yet, though.
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Dec 8, 2016 22:37
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Thanks everyone!
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Dec 8, 2016 22:54
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Any of you Northy goons interested in my steelies? I have a set of four 16x6 steel wheels from a base 2008 impreza I'd be willing to let go cheap. Even comes with snazzy plastic covers! E: Hatchback is love, Hatchback is life. Also      
BloodBag fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Dec 10, 2016 |
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Dec 9, 2016 12:32
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I have a 2014 WRX and drive it pretty rarely. I'll sometimes go ~3 weeks without driving. Twice now in the past 2 years the battery has been dead when I went to start it, requiring a jump. What's the best way of handling this? It's in a garage and has a power outlet available, should I get something like this - NOCO Genius G3500 6V/12V 3.5A UltraSafe Smart Battery Charger and just set a reminder to charge it overnight every 2 weeks or so? Is the 3.5 amp sufficient or should I spring for one of the pricier models? Is there a better idea? Is there anything else I should look out for when not driving it but once a month or so? I know there are gas stabilizers and stuff like that, but I think when I asked about those (either in this thread or friends IRL), I was told I probably didn't need them and they are more for long term. Thanks Subaru thread!
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Dec 11, 2016 00:15
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I would probably hardwire a Battery Tender into it. They make a specialized version that's intended for permanent install into cars that are rarely driven, and you end up with basically a block-heater style cord that comes out the grille. It's a lot easier to plug it into an extension cord than it is to put in the extra effort to pop the hood and clamp the tender onto the battery, so you're less likely to procrastinate until you end up with a dead battery.
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Dec 11, 2016 00:37
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We use hardwired battery tenders on 3-4 vehicles and they work great. It's definitely the most convenient option. These are the ones we use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKQK?psc=1
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Dec 11, 2016 01:06
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Does a 2005 LGT have the same intercooler as a 2013 WRX?
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Dec 11, 2016 17:07
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i own every Bionicle posted:Does a 2005 LGT have the same intercooler as a 2013 WRX? Yes as far as I know. (assuming you mean 2008-2014 rather than 2014-2017 WRX) As an FYI for the thread, 15" steel wheels fit fine on the GR Impreza  Surprising amount of misinformation online on whether it fits or not so if you're cheap and want as much sidewall as possible for winter, 15" wheels and 195/65R15 tires work without interference in place of the factory 205/50R17 tires and wheels.
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Dec 11, 2016 18:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would probably hardwire a Battery Tender into it. They make a specialized version that's intended for permanent install into cars that are rarely driven, and you end up with basically a block-heater style cord that comes out the grille. powderific posted:We use hardwired battery tenders on 3-4 vehicles and they work great. It's definitely the most convenient option. These are the ones we use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKQK?psc=1 Thanks guys for the advice. I'm a little unclear on the "hardwire" portion of it but I'm sure I'll figure it out once I get one on hand. It looks like the one linked was for gel batteries, so I ordered this one instead - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068XCQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also ordered one of these to have on-hand, just in case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6VXL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a shared garage so I'd rather not leave it plugged in all the time, so I'll just set a calendar reminder to plug it in every 2 weeks for the weekend. Thanks again for the help!
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Dec 11, 2016 18:35
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Hard wired means permanently installed as opposed to clipping it on and off every time you use it, when it's wired in you just unplug the extension cord that's feeding it power, close the hood, and drive off.
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Dec 11, 2016 18:58
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Got ya, that's what I figured I just wasn't sure about the details. Do you run the quick connect out the grill so it's easy to get to without popping the hood? How do you protect it from getting gunked up or causing a short? Stuff like that. I'm sure it will make more sense when I see it.
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Dec 11, 2016 19:08
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Edward IV posted:This morning I was changing over to winter wiper fluid when I discovered something was trying to make a home on top of my engine. I've been there...   Don't ignore it until you're trying to troubleshoot misfires 'cause someone nibbled on the 12v going to your injectors...
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Dec 11, 2016 21:51
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Internet Explorer posted:Thanks guys for the advice. I'm a little unclear on the "hardwire" portion of it but I'm sure I'll figure it out once I get one on hand. It looks like the one linked was for gel batteries, so I ordered this one instead - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068XCQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My bad on the link to gel battery charger. That's the right one. Glad you had the presence of mind to actually check. Internet Explorer posted:Got ya, that's what I figured I just wasn't sure about the details. Do you run the quick connect out the grill so it's easy to get to without popping the hood? How do you protect it from getting gunked up or causing a short? Stuff like that. I'm sure it will make more sense when I see it. The tender comes with a cable that has ring terminals on one end and a connector for the charger on the other. The battery connector has a little cover attached to it and is designed in a way to avoid shorts regardless. We always just tuck it back into the grill rather than popping the hood.
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Dec 11, 2016 22:02
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powderific posted:My bad on the link to gel battery charger. That's the right one. Glad you had the presence of mind to actually check. No worries, I really appreciate the help. Ah, okay. The quick-disconnect has a piece that covers the ports when not in use. That explains a lot. Not sure why I didn't think of it. Thanks a lot for the help. It certainly is an interesting problem to have, not driving your car enough to need to worry about all this. But I won't complain to loudly, beats an hour each way commute!
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Dec 11, 2016 23:57
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Internet Explorer posted:I have a 2014 WRX and drive it pretty rarely. If it's a hatchback, the solution is "sell it to me and it'll get driven every day."
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Dec 12, 2016 15:57
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Should I be concerned about using straight 30 weight break in oil now that it's getting cold? I'm almost 500 miles in after getting a new block and the shop said I should do 500 more with break in oil. Should I be scared driving it cold in <30 degree weather? I also park it outside and don't drive it every day.
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Dec 12, 2016 17:39
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Immolat1on posted:Should I be concerned about using straight 30 weight break in oil now that it's getting cold? I'm almost 500 miles in after getting a new block and the shop said I should do 500 more with break in oil. Should I be scared driving it cold in <30 degree weather? I also park it outside and don't drive it every day. You should be fine as long as you're not pushing the car very hard when it's cold. Call and ask the shop if you're super paranoid though.
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Dec 12, 2016 18:16
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Is there a reason that you're using straight 30 weight vs 5w30 or whatever the car normally came with? I'm sure the factory fill on the original engine wasn't something like that.
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Dec 12, 2016 20:23
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Larrymer posted:Is there a reason that you're using straight 30 weight vs 5w30 or whatever the car normally came with? I'm sure the factory fill on the original engine wasn't something like that. My tuner breaks in Subarus with 10W-30 Valvoline VR-1 racing oil
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Dec 12, 2016 20:48
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